Any Tips On ROPS Installation?

[montehill]

I plan to install a ROPS I purchased from Hoye Tractor on my 1610D this weekend. Anyone have any tips on the installation?

 

[reb]

The only problem I had with mine was cleaning out the holes where the unit bolted onto the tractor. I found a wire brush in a drill did the job.

 

[kenmac]

I plan to install a ROPS I purchased from Hoye Tractor on my 1610D this weekend. Anyone have any tips on the installation?

Buy a tap the same as the threads. Use lube , run the tap down by hand, blow out with air , repete until threads are clean

 

[MarkV]

Use lock tite when you do the installation.

MarkV

 

[YanmarFever]

Jack your Yanmar tractor up, and remove the tires, pto cover & 3 point hitch.
Turn up the radio, and have some fun!

I have a Hoye roll bar on my yanmar, its a piece of mind !

 

[California]

I put one on my YM240 (YM2000) as soon as Hoye had them. Here is a thread where I described the installation, with photos:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/yanmar/75272-roll-over-protective-structure-rollbar.html

While that will give you a general idea, I think the 1610 ROPS is more complicated to put on than mine was.

I didn't take the 3-point all apart, I just pulled clevis pins a couple of places to separate its components so I could fit the ROPS over stuff that was in the way.

I didn't remove the wheels. Didn't need to, and this avoided safety issues. Ernie we don't all have shop lifts!

The fenders on mine are held by u-bolts. I loosened the fender attachment points and rotated the fenders forward out of the way. If your fenders are bolted to the side of the transmission this won't work and you may need to disconnect the turn signal wiring and remove the fenders to get in there. But read Hoye's instructions. The instructions that came with mine were excellent.

Please post some photos of your project!

 

[HoyeTractor]

Anyone have any tips on the installation?

Have lots of patience... it can get a little frustrating . The ROPS
won't just fall right on. Just when you get to the point where you think there is no way this is going to fit... go take a break, get a drink, play with the dog, wash the car, then go try it again. You will want to remove the rear wheels. It is a lot easier than fighting around them. Also, don't snug up anything until all of the bolts are started.

Aaron
Hoye Tractor Parts
Contact Us
(940)592-0181

 

[montehill]

I've run into a problem. The Top Link Bracket (TLB) on my 1610 extends down further than on some of the other 1610's that I been able to find pictures of. It actually fits into the indention in the top of the PTO shield. Because of that, the top of the lower rollbar mount (LRM) will not clear the TLB and therefore the four holes will not line up so that I can bolt the LRM in place. I've attached some pictures to help explain what I mean. The first picture shows the PTO shield and the TLB actually resting on the shield. The second picture shows the TLB with the PTO shield removed. The third picture shows how my tractor is setup with the tiller attached. It uses the bottom set of holes on the TLB (there are three sets of holes) to attach the top link bar to the tiller. I'm not sure what to do at this point. Maybe I could take the TLB off, turn it upside down and reinstall. I know that means I would have to reconfigure how the tiller top link bar attaches. Anyone ever run into this situation? Any suggestions?

 

[YanmarFever]

I've run into a problem. The Top Link Bracket (TLB) on my 1610 extends down further than on some of the other 1610's that I been able to find pictures of. It actually fits into the indention in the top of the PTO shield. Because of that, the top of the lower rollbar mount (LRM) will not clear the TLB and therefore the four holes will not line up so that I can bolt the LRM in place. I've attached some pictures to help explain what I mean. The first picture shows the PTO shield and the TLB actually resting on the shield. The second picture shows the TLB with the PTO shield removed. The third picture shows how my tractor is setup with the tiller attached. It uses the bottom set of holes on the TLB (there are three sets of holes) to attach the top link bar to the tiller. I'm not sure what to do at this point. Maybe I could take the TLB off, turn it upside down and reinstall. I know that means I would have to reconfigure how the tiller top link bar attaches. Anyone ever run into this situation? Any suggestions?

Monte, stop & pressure wash that machine before you mount the roll bar !
The 1610 comes with two styles of top link tiller bkts you have the lower mount kind. Maybe you could find a dealer with the other style, the non folding type.
I had to do a little torch work on the lower roll bar mount for the FX335-D in order to clear my sway chains when the 3 point went up.

 

[winston1]

I don't have a rops so I don't know about that. I do have a tiller that looks very similar to yours. Mine is an rs1300. I do not have that special tiller bracket on top. I just fabricated a shorter adjustable top link and it can hook up on any of the holes in the top link bracket. Don't know for sure yours would work like that but if it would you could turn your top link bracket over.:thumbsup:

 

[montehill]

Monte, stop & pressure wash that machine before you mount the roll bar !
The 1610 comes with two styles of top link tiller bkts you have the lower mount kind. Maybe you could find a dealer with the other style, the non folding type.
I had to do a little torch work on the lower roll bar mount for the FX335-D in order to clear my sway chains when the 3 point went up.

I bought some Simple Green and did some cleaning this afternoon. Plan to fire up the pressure washer in the morning. A couple of those pics were taken before I did any clean up.

I didn't realize there were two styles of top link brackets. I think I'll try turning mine over. If that doesn't work I'll follow your suggestion and see if I can find a dealer with the other style of bracket.

Thanks,
Monte

 

[montehill]

I don't have a rops so I don't know about that. I do have a tiller that looks very similar to yours. Mine is an rs1300. I do not have that special tiller bracket on top. I just fabricated a shorter adjustable top link and it can hook up on any of the holes in the top link bracket. Don't know for sure yours would work like that but if it would you could turn your top link bracket over.:thumbsup:

I have the rs1303 tiller. It does a great job. Thanks for the info. I should be able to attach my tiller the same way you do. As you suggested, I'm going to turn my bracket over. That should take care of the clearance problem. I have a couple of different size top links. Maybe one of those will work for my tiller. If not, I can envision a trip to my local Tractor Supply. I've got to know those folks pretty well in the last few weeks!

Thanks,
Monte

 

[YanmarFever]

I've run into a problem. The Top Link Bracket (TLB) on my 1610 extends down further than on some of the other 1610's that I been able to find pictures of. It actually fits into the indention in the top of the PTO shield. Because of that, the top of the lower rollbar mount (LRM) will not clear the TLB and therefore the four holes will not line up so that I can bolt the LRM in place. I've attached some pictures to help explain what I mean. The first picture shows the PTO shield and the TLB actually resting on the shield. The second picture shows the TLB with the PTO shield removed. The third picture shows how my tractor is setup with the tiller attached. It uses the bottom set of holes on the TLB (there are three sets of holes) to attach the top link bar to the tiller. I'm not sure what to do at this point. Maybe I could take the TLB off, turn it upside down and reinstall. I know that means I would have to reconfigure how the tiller top link bar attaches. Anyone ever run into this situation? Any suggestions?

Monte, what brand of over running clutch is that on your machine.
I like the grease zerk pointing back, it looks easy to get to with a grease gun.

 

[montehill]

Monte, what brand of over running clutch is that on your machine.
I like the grease zerk pointing back, it looks easy to get to with a grease gun.

I ordered that over run clutch from RCO Tractors. You can click here to view the one I ordered. I know that Hoye Tractors sells them and Little Miami Trading Company may carry them as well. It is very easy to get to with a grease gun. Very easy to install too. Well worth the money.

 

[montehill]

Success! I got the ROPS installed today. It only took about two and a half hours. Thanks to everyone that offered tips/suggestions. I would also like to thank a friend of mine, Jason Haney, for his help. He made the installation easy. I did have to turn the Top Link Bracket over to get clearance for the lower rollbar mount. We ran in to a small problem with a stuck pin in what I would call the middle lift arm. We had to remove the left upper lift arm so that we could hammer out the stuck pin. Once the pin was out we reinstalled the upper lift arm. We removed the remainder of the "Tiller Attachment Setup". This can be seen in the forth picture. It is what the top link is attached to. After that was removed we installed the ROPS. It was a very straight install. One thing to watch out for, not already mentioned in this thread, is to snug up the lower rollbar mount before you drill the holes in the fenders that you will use to bolt to the ROPS. If you don't, you will drill the holes in the wrong place. Fortunately, I realized that with the first hole I drilled. Thanks again to everyone. I appreciate the help!
Monte