Front-End Loader New Kubota Loader on my old L345DT

[rbargeron]

My first L345DT had the model 1720 loader. It was made in the U.S. I always thought it was too big & heavy for the tractor. It's length put the load way out - steering was hard. It wasn't removable so the bulk and weight were always there. Here's what it looked like:

I've been looking for a better-matched loader for my current L345DT.

A new-in-the-crate LA450 loader came up on eBay. This loader was designed by Kubota for the L models that came out in 1985, and whose bell housing and tranny case were very similar to the 1982 models. It looked like it might fit or come close - so I went for it.

The hunch was right - the center frame bolted right up to the six holes in the bellhousing without modification. The front support needed one new 1/2" plate welded in for bolting to the frame - $50 mat'l & labor including orange paint.

So here it is - a restored L345DT with a new removable Kubota loader. It uses the internal hydraulics accessed at the hydraulic block under the seat. (regular 3-hose setup with the power-beyond hose coming back to the block)

I'm one of only a handful of people who thinks this is cool - but I'm quite pleased about how it came together.

 

[Johndeere3720]

That loader looks pretty good on your L345DT. Happy operating!

 

[BillG_in_TX]

Dick,

That looks great! I guess you didn't need the brackets off of my old L345 after all.

 

[rbargeron]

Hi Bill, we might still need a chin bar for a 1720. A friend is negotiating to buy one that's been removed from a tractor - the pictures don't show all the brackets - so we'll see.....
I was sorta proud of remembering your tractor had the chin bar but no loader. My wife might say my memory is good - for tractors. Take care, Dick B

 

[Adiredneck]

Looks VERY good. Nice job!

 

[rbargeron]

" 1 hungry wood boiler "

spoken like somebody who knows what it's like to sleep in a chair near the stove and thought a wood boiler would be easier. Glad it's Spring.

 

[boxygen]

**** fine job! Its always nice when something like this comes together so well! Also, I love those "old" kubotas with round headlights. I betcha this project seemed way too easy to be true? What do you have to pay for a new in crate antique loader if you dont mind me asking?

 

[dfkrug]

I may be the only person who thinks this is cool - I'm quite happy about how it came together.

Very cool, Dick!

Interesting ROPS....is that from Kubota?

If you have no power steering, maybe you can find a setup off an old
L2250/2550/2850, which replaced your model, I believe.

 

[rbargeron]

boxygen:
It was a nice moment when we first brought the subframe up under the tractor and realized it was perfect width & hole locations. There was even a spacer in the kit for one side that isn't needed for the L345's bell housing. (actually fits the L345 better than its intended model) I gave $1850 - it was perfect - stored inside and included everything - single-lever control valve, all the bolts, brackets, clips, hydraulic hoses and quick connectors, even the adapter to convert the oil filler cap to a hydraulic return. It was a good deal.

dfkrug:
I got the ROPS thru Kubota's ROPS and seatbelt program. It's a good program for older machines without ROPS. Kubota prices them low and many dealers pass them through at cost. Got mine from Pinnacle View Equipment in Walpole, NH. (around $250 including freight)

The L345 does have power steering. Its in the steering box instead of an outside cylinder - so it's a little weak when stopped on pavement with a full bucket. On the good side it saves the tires.

Thanks for the kind words - I edited my post to say there may be a handful of us who like this. Take care, Dick B

 

[rbargeron]

Got an email about the hydraulic block - I'm posting the answer here. Under the seat there is a 4-bolt cap that connects two hydraulic block ports together. There is an available adapter that replaces the cap - it has pipe-thread holes for fittings. One hose powers an aux valve and the other is to bring pressurized oil back from the aux valve's power-beyond port to run the 3-point hitch.

Now is where I brag about Ronnie Bowman at Tractorsmart.com - a VERY helpful guy. I happened to have one of these adapters - but a friend is also putting a loader on a L345 so I wondered if the adapter is still available from Kubota. The original is discontinued but Ronnie kept digging until he found its functional equivalent - part No. 70050-00279 price $88.30. It is the key part for tapping into the internal hydraulics for these early '80s tractors - so it's worth it's weight in gold. So is Ronnie. Great job.

 

[rbargeron]

Thanks to Carl in NH here's a pic of the hydraulic block adapter - a block of aluminum with 4 bolt holes and two drilled oil passages with tapped holes for fittings. The front port (closest in the picture) is for supply to the aux. valve. It's important to connect the valve's PB port back to the rear port on the adapter - and to route the valve's exhaust flow to the transmission (the filler plug is an easy location). Dick B

 

[dfkrug]

I happened to have one of these adapters - but a friend is also putting a loader on a L345 so I wondered if the adapter is still available from Kubota. The original is discontinued but Ronnie kept digging until he found its functional equivalent - part No. 70050-00279 price $88.30. It is the key part for tapping into the internal hydraulics for these early '80s tractors

I suspect that adapter is not made by Kubota. Back in the 90s when I was
looking for such an adapter for an early L, the Kubota dealer showed me
something they had in the shop. I don't think it was aluminum, and I was
told it was made by Gearmore. For a later L than yours.

 

[rbargeron]

Hi Dave, I've seen maybe 4 of these over the years, some different in thickness or port orientation. They have all been a chunk of aluminum bar stock with 8 drilled holes, 2 of them tapped 1/2" npt. An easy job for a machinist. Would be fine in steel too. The 2 I've bought came from a Kubota dealer - but he could have made them in his shop.

 

[fergluis]

I like it, I got one of those tractor.

My first L345DT had the model 1720 loader. It was made in the U.S. I always thought it was too big & heavy for the tractor. It's length put the load way out - steering was hard. It wasn't removable so the bulk and weight were always there. Here's what it looked like:

I've been looking for a better-matched loader for my current L345DT.

A new-in-the-crate LA450 loader came up on eBay. This loader was designed by Kubota for the L models that came out in 1985, and whose bell housing and tranny case were very similar to the 1982 models. It looked like it might fit or come close - so I went for it.

The hunch was right - the center frame bolted right up to the six holes in the bellhousing without modification. The front support needed one new 1/2" plate welded in for bolting to the frame - $50 mat'l & labor including orange paint.

So here it is - a restored L345DT with a new removable Kubota loader. It uses the internal hydraulics accessed at the hydraulic block under the seat. (regular 3-hose setup with the power-beyond hose coming back to the block)

I'm one of only a handful of people who thinks this is cool - but I'm quite pleased about how it came together.

 

[windy acers]

I own a 1984 l-305 same as yours but a 3 cyl . It has a back hoe and the same loader as your old one pretty much happy with it. what was the price of the new one?

 

[MacL345]

Question for DickB - I am new to the forum - found it preparing to replace the clutch stack in an old L345DT. It is a good old unit, but our caretaker says the drive clutch is slipping and the PTO clutch is frozen or needs adjustment. I've procured new discs and TO bearing and from what I've read, the replacement shouldn't be much different from a very old Allis WD that I worked on years ago. Any special thoughts on removing the FEL - I think it is a 1720 model, not real sure - see attached pic. Thanks

 

[rbargeron]

Hi, I I just saw your post - sorry I wasn't watching earlier. We just split a L355ss (same tractor as L345) for clutch work (clutch shaft operating hard). To do the clutch the loader can stay on.
We raised it way up and put wood braces in to keep it there. Take off the hood, drain the transmission oil, unhook the hydraulic pipes on the side of the engine and all the cables & wires going from engine to firewall, take out the 4 bolts holding the loader side frames to the chin bar, take out the bellhousing and starter bolts, put wood wedges in to keep the front axle from tilting.

Put a jack under the transmission to hold the tractor, put another rolling jack under the engine and roll it away. If it's never been apart, it takes some fiddling to get it started - the dowel pins are a snug fit (the build quality on these machines is high). Don't overlook unbolting the strut from the radiator support back to the firewall. (I did at first) If you need a clutch alignment pilot tool for putting it back together, I'll lend you mine - PM to hook up on that. Take care, Dick B

 

[dfkrug]

We just split a L355ss (same tractor as L345) for clutch work

Isn't the L355SS the pinnacle of the old 3-digit Kubotas from the late
70s/early80s? Does it use a dual stage dry clutch?

 

[rbargeron]

Yes, the L355ss was the last version of that chassis. It has a single disk clutch that handles all engine output. It also has a nifty hydraulic shuttle for travel direction but, alas, it comes at a high price - no live pto or 2-speed pto gearbox. So whether the L355 is the pinnacle depends on how you use it. Of the two, I prefer the L345.

 

[kevindhamilton]

Hi there, I'm wrestling with the setup of the adapter that rbargeron references in April 2010. I've purchased the adapter, I hooked the high pressure for the front end loader into the front port on the adapter per the picture and am dumping the low pressure hose back into the transmission. I plugged the other (back) port of the adapter... clearly from the description and the picture that high pressure flow must go somewhere. I suspect it has to do with my problem, in that the 3 point isn't working now. Where do I plumb the back port of the adapter to? So glad to have you all as a resource as I'd be perpetually broken down without y'all. Looking forward to getting back up and running. Merry Christmas all.