Looking for my True (Tractor) Love

[Anianna]

I am a tractor newbie with 13 acres and a budget. Please forgive my ignorance, but all of my online research has been somewhat contradictory or just downright confusing. We don't have a lot of tractor dealerships nearby, so I haven't had much opportunity to do on-site research. We do have a John Deere dealer about 30 minutes away and Kubota and Massey Ferguson dealers about an hour away. I'm not sure if there are others.

Property Breakdown

Fields
About half of the property is field we allow a local farmer to use and we would do little to nothing with those for the foreseeable future. The fields are mostly flat, but do contain a number of gopher holes.

Lawn and Rough
About 1/4 of the property needs some form of mowing. Around the house I would like to mow neatly, about an acre give or take. About three acres out by the barn just needs a rough trim and may tend to get relatively high before I take care of it. These areas are mostly flat with only mild grade. However, there are a few rough spots and one ridge that I hadn't noticed under the overgrowth when we bought the place but is very noticeable when you try to run a riding mower through that area. It rises about 2ft at its peak and runs for a length of about 20 ft.

Woods
The remaining quarter of the property is largely wooded and there are some areas where I would like to keep down the underbrush as we get a lot of briars and prickers. The area of woods I would like to tend is perhaps an acre or two. There are some hilly spots in our woods, but the area I expect to tend is only mildly inclined.

Driveway
We have a dirt (was once gravel) driveway that is mostly flat but does have one problem area that sometimes retains water and needs extra attention. I want to fix this and then be able to maintain and improve the driveway. At some point, I would also like to be able to clear snow. We usually only get a few inches on occasion, but have gotten between 8-12 inches more rarely.

Considerations
The ground usually seems pretty hard packed. However, we have recently had two months of record precipitation with a third month approaching record rainfall. We have a few locations that do not appear to puddle, but have become rather soft, so much so that even my 4x4 has gotten stuck. I don't think this is a normal issue, but this is only our second year here.

I honestly do not know how much to expect a tractor and the implements I would need to cost. As much as I would love a big monster of a tractor, I am thinking that a 30HP (motor power, 20+ at the implement) range machine would be ideal for our physical and budget needs. I know I can't afford the bigger, more rugged tractors.

If you're going to use acronyms or shortened references, please let me know what they are. I still don't know the difference between a SCUT and a CUT, for example, nor do I know what either stands for. I don't suppose anybody has written a tractor glossary?

Questions

1. What kind of price range can I expect for a 30HP +/- machine?

2. What kind of price range can I expect for various implements?

3. What are the best implements to meet my needs? My most pressing needs are the yard mowing and driveway care.

4. Can I rent other implements that I wouldn't use often (such as a post hole auger or a backhoe)?

5. Are different branded implements interchangeable or are you limited to the brand of tractor purchased? Are aftermarket implements an option?

6. Are there any good resources online for the tractor newbie to look into to learn more?

7. Are any brands easier in regards to attaching implements? I may have to attach them on my own sometimes.

8. What brands/ models should I be considering?

9. Am I missing any important details?

Thanks in advance for any information you all can provide. I am really looking forward to my new toy!!

 

[flusher]

I am a tractor newbie with 13 acres and a budget. Please forgive my ignorance, but all of my online research has been somewhat contradictory or just downright confusing. We don't have a lot of tractor dealerships nearby, so I haven't had much opportunity to do on-site research. We do have a John Deere dealer about 30 minutes away and Kubota and Massey Ferguson dealers about an hour away. I'm not sure if there are others.

Property Breakdown

Fields
About half of the property is field we allow a local farmer to use and we would do little to nothing with those for the foreseeable future. The fields are mostly flat, but do contain a number of gopher holes.

Lawn and Rough
About 1/4 of the property needs some form of mowing. Around the house I would like to mow neatly, about an acre give or take. About three acres out by the barn just needs a rough trim and may tend to get relatively high before I take care of it. These areas are mostly flat with only mild grade. However, there are a few rough spots and one ridge that I hadn't noticed under the overgrowth when we bought the place but is very noticeable when you try to run a riding mower through that area. It rises about 2ft at its peak and runs for a length of about 20 ft.

Woods
The remaining quarter of the property is largely wooded and there are some areas where I would like to keep down the underbrush as we get a lot of briars and prickers. The area of woods I would like to tend is perhaps an acre or two. There are some hilly spots in our woods, but the area I expect to tend is only mildly inclined.

Driveway
We have a dirt (was once gravel) driveway that is mostly flat but does have one problem area that sometimes retains water and needs extra attention. I want to fix this and then be able to maintain and improve the driveway. At some point, I would also like to be able to clear snow. We usually only get a few inches on occasion, but have gotten between 8-12 inches more rarely.

Considerations
The ground usually seems pretty hard packed. However, we have recently had two months of record precipitation with a third month approaching record rainfall. We have a few locations that do not appear to puddle, but have become rather soft, so much so that even my 4x4 has gotten stuck. I don't think this is a normal issue, but this is only our second year here.

I honestly do not know how much to expect a tractor and the implements I would need to cost. As much as I would love a big monster of a tractor, I am thinking that a 30HP (motor power, 20+ at the implement) range machine would be ideal for our physical and budget needs. I know I can't afford the bigger, more rugged tractors.

If you're going to use acronyms or shortened references, please let me know what they are. I still don't know the difference between a SCUT and a CUT, for example, nor do I know what either stands for. I don't suppose anybody has written a tractor glossary?

Questions

1. What kind of price range can I expect for a 30HP +/- machine?

2. What kind of price range can I expect for various implements?

3. What are the best implements to meet my needs? My most pressing needs are the yard mowing and driveway care.

4. Can I rent other implements that I wouldn't use often (such as a post hole auger or a backhoe)?

5. Are different branded implements interchangeable or are you limited to the brand of tractor purchased? Are aftermarket implements an option?

6. Are there any good resources online for the tractor newbie to look into to learn more?

7. Are any brands easier in regards to attaching implements? I may have to attach them on my own sometimes.

8. What brands/ models should I be considering?

9. Am I missing any important details?

Thanks in advance for any information you all can provide. I am really looking forward to my new toy!!

Tractor (30 hp engine, 25 hp pto): new: $10-15K; used (5-10 yrs old): $5-10K; really used (10-40 years old): $3-5K. If you buy new, consider getting a tractor with a hydrostatic transmission, 4-wheel drive (4WD) and power steering.

Add $3-4K for a front end loader (FEL) with 5-ft wide bucket. The FEL is one of the handiest implements to have and you should seriously consider getting one. And if you can afford an extra $800-1000, you might consider getting a skid steer (SS) quick attach fixture for the FEL. This allows you to switch from the bucket to other SS attachments quickly. Here's what it looks like on my 2008 Mahindra 5525 (54 hp engine, 45 hp pto)



Implements:
rotary mower (aka brush hog, bush hog, slasher, shredder)--$800-$1500 for 5-6 ft diameter mower. These mowers are for field work cutting the tall weeds on your property. Here's my 6-ft Hawkline brush hog



Get yourself a good riding mower for your lawn mowing chores.

For driveway maintenance, a 5-6ft wide box blade is normally used ($500-700). Be aware it takes a fair amount of practice to use a box blade efficiently and effectively. Here's the box blade on my 2005 Kubota B7510 HST (21 hp engine, 17 hp pto)



Sure, you can rent implements and tractors, including tractor-loader-backhoes (TLBs) when you need to do serious trench digging.

Implements designed for the 3-point hitch (3pt) on the rear of the tractor are interchangeable from vendor to vendor. I'd suggest you look into a quick attach fixture for your 3pt to make hooking up implements easier. Or else get yourself a 5-ft steel digging bar to auger implements into position when attaching to the 3pt.

Tractor brands: John Deere, New Holland, Massey Ferguson, Kubota, Mahindra. Make sure you buy from a local dealer that you trust so you can get servicing and repairs done without large transportation charges.

And, as the Sarge used to say, be careful out there. Tractors are not toys--they're tools and the can hurt you if you don't respect their power. Check the TBN Safety Forum for more info in this regard.

 

[Gary Fowler]

Be aware that most dealers will charge you to haul your tractor into the shop ($200 is about the minimum) even if you buy new so you may want to look at purchasing a tandem axle trailer that will safely haul your tractor, especially if you buy used. If you are mechanically inclined and know something about tractors most things can be fixed at home, otherwise plan to haul it to the dealer. 50 hour service per previous post here will run you over $500 so get a good manual and plan to do lots of work yourself.
As for tractors and prices sizes, I think you have the right idea on the size.
Take a look at Tractorhouse.com and it will give you an idea of what folks are listing used and new for across the country. You can search by state,brand, even price.

 

[Gittyup]

Many good brands out there. In addition to those mentioned, there is Kioti, TYM, Montana, and Branson. All are good. This group here might save you substantial money over big names like John Deere, etc. There are many schools of thought on this. Read up on TBN and make up your own mind whether it's worth it to save a few dollars. A dealer is probably more important than brand.

SCUT is Subcompact Utility Tractor. CUT is Compact Utility Tractor. Some SCUT's have a category-0 3 point hitch (3PH) or "modified category-1", which means they have limitations when using CAT1 implements.

I suggest you stay with something that has a true CAT1 hitch. CAT1 implements can do more, are more readily available, and are often cheaper. I'd say you are right on the mark with around 30 HP +/- 5 HP.

Yes, a separate lawn mower is best for your finished lawn. For the cost of a finish mower to fit your big tractor, you can get a descent riding mower.

Front End Loader (FEL) is a must, I think. Also, consider telescopic 3PH arms. These make hooking up much easier. Hydrostatic (HST) transmission is safer and easier versus a manual/shuttle shift tranny.

Implements for 30 HP: 5' boxblade, 7' scraper blade, 7' york rake, 5 -6' bush hog, 4 -5" chipper/shredder (if you have no place to put underbrush or can't burn it). I'd look for them used. They are plentiful and this can save you substantial money. Craigslist is a very good place to watch for what you want.

A grapple for your loader is really quite handy for brush work. Check out what guys like Islandtractor do with this attachment.

Get at least one set of rear hydraulic remotes. Get 2 sets if you can afford it. Then add a hydraulic toplink/sidelink so that you can control the angle/pitch of your 3PH implements without getting off the tractor. A grapple in most cases requires one set of remotes.

If you can't turn a wrench, get as many options up front as you can afford because they will cost you more after the sale, and it won't be cheap if you have to return the tractor to the dealer for an upgrade, or have him come out and do it in the field.

Canopy if you are sun sensitive.

If you aren't going to finish mow with the tractor, get rimguard fluid in your rear tires. Much, much more stable and safe, with better all around traction too.

Redo that driveway with geotex, after you reshape it to get the water to run off properly (using your blades).

Alot of info, I know. Take your time, read and read some more. You don't have to get everything at once and you don't have to understand everything at once either.

 

[Anianna]

Thank you, flusher and Gary. Both of your posts are very helpful!

@flusher, I do have a riding lawn mower, but it's not currently functioning. It is a Troy Bilt and when it runs, it runs great, but it is forever throwing belts and now the belt won't engage at all. It has to be dismantled to replace the belt and I've had to replace it every single time I mow. It takes two people to put the deck back on after replacing the belt, too, and that can be a problem.

Is it possible to get a mowing attachment for the tractor? If I have to buy another rider, can you recommend a brand that isn't going to be so much trouble?

I do plan on purchasing a FEL (thanks for explaining what that stands for!) at some point; if I don't get it this year I expect to next year. Thank you for the information on that. I had never heard of the SS and that is definitely good information.

@Gary, I hope to do most repairs myself, unless tractors are going the way of many current automobiles where manufacturers are making tasks that were once simple unnecessarily difficult. For example, on my Toyota van, the air filter is shoved back under a bunch of hoses and you have to dismantle all of the hoses and have a special wrench to fit in the tight space behind the air filter compartment just to change the air filter.

A good trailer is something I plan to purchase, sooner if I can afford it, but probably next year. We do have a hardware store down the road that rents such things, so I will have access to one if I really need it.

 

[IslandTractor]

I would agree with what the other guys have posted but will add that even though you mentioned 13 acres you are really only mowing or doing brush work in about half of that (calculated best I can from the data provided). Also, you are finish mowing (lawn mowing) only the area around the house ??one acre and indicated that the other mowing will be occasional rather than weekly. Given this scenario (and agreeing that a riding mower should probably be part of the equation), you might consider stretching your budget by looking at 20-25 hp tractors. In general a 20hp tractor is absolutely fine for working on 5 acres or so while a 30 becomes a reasonable upgrade when you get above that. Lots of individual variation of course but as a lot of the work you need done only needs rough mowing either once per year (areas of brush) or once a month (between lawn and barn), a 20 hp CUT or even SCUT (sub compact utility tractor) would seem plenty. The savings upfront with a smaller tractor are in the range of $2500 (comparing 20hp to 30hp) and the implements will typically be one foot narrower and 20% less expensive. Additionally, especially with a SCUT, the size trailer needed to get it to the dealer is significantly smaller and can be pulled by a midsized SUV while a 30hp tractor will typically require a double axle trailer and a full size pickup to trailer.

No one has commented on the difference between SCUT and CUT so I'll add a bit here. SCUTs are basically smaller and lower to the ground and are generally optomized for lawn mowing though they are far more capabile than riding mowers. The small size and low ground clearance (and weight) are generally an advantage for tractor duties around the house but can be liabilities when working in fields or woods. There is no firm horsepower break point between a SCUT and CUT. For example the tractor in my avatar is a 20hp CUT and is physically far larger and nearly twice the weight of a 26hp Kubota BX which is considered a SCUT. CUTs have higher ground clearance and are better at ground engaging tasks (and also mow which is not considered ground engaging). The higher ground clearance is a definite advantage in the woods too.

I owned a 20hp tractor (Kioti CK20) to clear and maintain a 5 acre area around my house and found it a perfect size. That was doing some very aggressive clearing too, the mowing was no problem at all (4ft bush hog and 5ft finish mower). A 20hp CUT could easily pull a 5 foot box blade or other dedicated implement for driveway maintenance.

Another advantage to consider with budgetary considerations is that it is pretty easy to find low hour recent vintage Kubota and JD tractors in the 20-25 hp range. I'm talking about less than 5-7 years old with fewer than 500 hours of operation. These used machines are typically very reliable with many years of service remaining and because they are used they have already suffered their first few years of depreciation. After those initial years and first 100 hours or so tractor values tend to stabilize (especially JD and Kubota) so if you bought a smaller tractor now (SCUT or CUT) and decided in three years to upgrade you would likely get very close to what you paid for the machine.

If you have lots of plans for the tractor beyond mowing and bush hogging (all that you have described besides the driveway maintenance) then I'd agree that 30hp is about right but if your main duties are the relatively limited bush hogging and driveway maintenance then a 20-25hp CUT would probably be my choice. And don't shy away from recent used CUTs. If you are uncomfortable buying directly then look on the dealer's lot for that size machine. Typically they have many and this is a great time of year to buy one. If you wait a few months the dealers are less likely to discount.

Good luck

 

[Anianna]

Many good brands out there. In addition to those mentioned, there is Kioti, TYM, Montana, and Branson. All are good. This group here might save you substantial money over big names like John Deere, etc. There are many schools of thought on this. Read up on TBN and make up your own mind whether it's worth it to save a few dollars. A dealer is probably more important than brand.

SCUT is Subcompact Utility Tractor. CUT is Compact Utility Tractor. Some SCUT's have a category-0 3 point hitch (3PH) or "modified category-1", which means they have limitations when using CAT1 implements.

Thank you. That makes sense now.

I suggest you stay with something that has a true CAT1 hitch. CAT1 implements can do more, are more readily available, and are often cheaper. I'd say you are right on the mark with around 30 HP +/- 5 HP.

Is there much difference between ease of attaching implements between the 3pt and the CAT1 hitch?

Yes, a separate lawn mower is best for your finished lawn. For the cost of a finish mower to fit your big tractor, you can get a descent riding mower.

Front End Loader (FEL) is a must, I think. Also, consider telescopic 3PH arms. These make hooking up much easier. Hydrostatic (HST) transmission is safer and easier versus a manual/shuttle shift tranny.

Implements for 30 HP: 5' boxblade, 7' scraper blade, 7' york rake, 5 -6' bush hog, 4 -5" chipper/shredder (if you have no place to put underbrush or can't burn it). I'd look for them used. They are plentiful and this can save you substantial money. Craigslist is a very good place to watch for what you want.

It is my understanding that the boxblade and scraper blade can both be used for driveway maintenance. What should I consider if I want to choose just one of those for the time being? Which one will better meet my needs in the short run?

A grapple for your loader is really quite handy for brush work. Check out what guys like Islandtractor do with this attachment.

Get at least one set of rear hydraulic remotes. Get 2 sets if you can afford it. Then add a hydraulic toplink/sidelink so that you can control the angle/pitch of your 3PH implements without getting off the tractor. A grapple in most cases requires one set of remotes.

If you can't turn a wrench, get as many options up front as you can afford because they will cost you more after the sale, and it won't be cheap if you have to return the tractor to the dealer for an upgrade, or have him come out and do it in the field.

Ok, I have to admit you lost me here. I am not knowledgable regarding "hydraulic remotes" or "hydraulic toplink/sidelink". Where can I learn more about this?

If you aren't going to finish mow with the tractor, get rimguard fluid in your rear tires. Much, much more stable and safe, with better all around traction too.

Does that require specialized tires or just the standard tire I can expect the tractor to come with? Does rimguard fluid have to be replaced regularly or is it a permanent change to the tire?

Redo that driveway with geotex, after you reshape it to get the water to run off properly (using your blades).

Thanks, I hadn't heard of Geotex, but now that I've looked it up, it looks like a good solution to my drainage problem. I had been fiddling with notions of chicken wire and the possibility of drainage pipes, but figured that was a duct tape fix that wasn't going to last well.

Alot of info, I know. Take your time, read and read some more. You don't have to get everything at once and you don't have to understand everything at once either.

Indeed, thank you!

 

[IslandTractor]

A good trailer is something I plan to purchase, sooner if I can afford it, but probably next year. We do have a hardware store down the road that rents such things, so I will have access to one if I really need it.

You are asking all the right questions about tractor purchase but I just wanted to make sure you realize that trailering a tractor is potentially quite dangerous and not likely to be done with a trailer from a local hardware store (SCUT excepted). Before you assume you will be able to trailer the tractor you purchase please do further research. Tractors are heavy and few can be successfully towed with anything less than a quarter ton pickup with a 7000lb rated trailer. That is well beyond what a typical SUV can handle for example so just keep that in mind as you make your tractor purchase.

 

[Anianna]

IslandTractor, thank you, particularly for the SCUT/CUT explanation.

A SCUT is an option, but I do have other applications planned for the future I am concerned a SCUT can't handle. For example, the previous owners left a lot of garbage on the property; stuff like chunks of concrete and piles of broken brick. Also, it appears there once was a barbed wire fence on the property and when they were done with it, they simply yanked it out, wadded it up posts and all, and bulldozed it into the woods. I would really like to get that taken care of at some point. Some other projects I am considering for the future include digging a root cellar and putting up a fence for animals.

My hope is to get a tractor that will meet all of those needs and last me a good long time. Would you still consider the SCUT for these applications or would you go ahead and go for the CUT?

 

[Anianna]

You are asking all the right questions about tractor purchase but I just wanted to make sure you realize that trailering a tractor is potentially quite dangerous and not likely to be done with a trailer from a local hardware store (SCUT excepted). Before you assume you will be able to trailer the tractor you purchase please do further research. Tractors are heavy and few can be successfully towed with anything less than a quarter ton pickup with a 7000lb rated trailer. That is well beyond what a typical SUV can handle for example so just keep that in mind as you make your tractor purchase.

I have a big Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 I expect to do the hauling with. I will definitely do some more research on trailers. Thank you!

When I make my initial purchase, will a dealer deliver the tractor or will I need that trailer right away? That will add significant cost to my tractor purchase that I will have to take into consideration with my budget.

 

[NSBound]

Hi Anianna, welcome to TBN - as you're already seeing, you have lots of support and information here! Reading over your posts, I see that a lot of your questions will be answered in what looks to be a great book written by one of the owners of this website - there's a link to it I think on the main page. I actually started to compile a list of acronyms for you, but I see they are included in the book. The best part is, they're offering a huge discounts to members here. Have a look!

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Bonus #3:
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(P.S. - Can you put at least what state you are in, in your profile? It'll help in a lot of cases with information being provided to you! )

 

[Anianna]

Thanks NSBound, I don't know how I missed that. It looks like a great place to start.

Sorry about the profile, I was so excited about learning more about tractors that I entirely forgot to update my profile. I'll get right on that. I'm in rural Virginia northeast of Richmond.

 

[beenthere]

Visit both dealers nearby, and ask for some demo's. I made an easy decision to go with the bigger tires, as the ride is so much better. The demo's helped that realization.

I'd suggest the Deere in the 3000 series or smaller 2000 series with an iMatch quickhitch and compatible attachments. FEL with bucket and forks. But only if the Deere dealer is one you can work with, as the dealer is hopefully your friend when needed.
(and I can't imagine they won't deliver your tractor, and then some, for you).

I've no problem towing my 32 hp tractor on a 7000# trailer with Chevy Trailblazer, so your Dodge Ram will do that fine. May not need to be in a hurry with the trailer until you need it (I usually rent one from my Deere dealer if/when needed and doing that once or twice a year is cheaper than owning a trailer that size).

 

[flusher]

Thank you, flusher and Gary. Both of your posts are very helpful!

@flusher, I do have a riding lawn mower, but it's not currently functioning. It is a Troy Bilt and when it runs, it runs great, but it is forever throwing belts and now the belt won't engage at all. It has to be dismantled to replace the belt and I've had to replace it every single time I mow. It takes two people to put the deck back on after replacing the belt, too, and that can be a problem.

Is it possible to get a mowing attachment for the tractor? If I have to buy another rider, can you recommend a brand that isn't going to be so much trouble?

I do plan on purchasing a FEL (thanks for explaining what that stands for!) at some point; if I don't get it this year I expect to next year. Thank you for the information on that. I had never heard of the SS and that is definitely good information.

@Gary, I hope to do most repairs myself, unless tractors are going the way of many current automobiles where manufacturers are making tasks that were once simple unnecessarily difficult. For example, on my Toyota van, the air filter is shoved back under a bunch of hoses and you have to dismantle all of the hoses and have a special wrench to fit in the tight space behind the air filter compartment just to change the air filter.

A good trailer is something I plan to purchase, sooner if I can afford it, but probably next year. We do have a hardware store down the road that rents such things, so I will have access to one if I really need it.

Yes, finsh mowers are available for lawn mowing chores. Both 3pt and tow-behind versions are available. These mowers run off the rear power take off (PTO) on the tractor. You can get them as low as $600. The good ones are 2-3 times more expensive

- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

Some tractors like my Kubota B7510HST have a second pto under the driver's seat so you can attach a mid-mount mower (MMM) for lawn work (makes the tractor look like a large riding mower). These MMMs are pretty expensive ($3-4K).

Another option for lawn work is a zero turn radius (ZTR) mower ($2-3K).

Ariens Company Ariens 34 in., 344 CC Briggs & STRATTON, Hydrostatic Zero Turn Mower, 91513100

If you buy a new tractor, you generally can get a better price on an FEL if you get it as part of the package rather than retrofitting it onto the tractor later.

 

[flusher]

One additional suggestion: think about getting hydraulic remotes on your tractor. They come in handy for implements that need hydraulics to operate. Here's what they look like on my Mahindra 5525.





My dealer installed these when I bought the tractor ($750, a really great price). The usual setup is dual hydraulic remotes. YOu can see the hydraulic hoses that connect the tractor hydraulics to the hydraulic cylinder on my grain drill (a type of planter for hayfields)

 

[TripleR]

I can't put it any better than Island tractor. When I bought my last new tractor, I "wanted" a slightly bigger model, but after considering what my machine's primary uses would be, I went with a SCUT and have been very happy. I have bigger machines thee miles away at another property, but haven't had to bring one up here except a couple of times when my health required a AC cab.

We have learned that sometimes renting a dozer or something is easier or cheaper than buying a machine just for one or two projects.

I believe a SCUT or CUT could meet your needs if you want to own only one machine, but if you don't mind the cost and maintenance on a mower and tractor then go with a bigger tractor.

Just an opinion.

 

[IslandTractor]

I have a big Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 I expect to do the hauling with. I will definitely do some more research on trailers. Thank you!

When I make my initial purchase, will a dealer deliver the tractor or will I need that trailer right away? That will add significant cost to my tractor purchase that I will have to take into consideration with my budget.

Depending on just how far away and what local practices are I'd say that you can expect the dealer to deliver your tractor without charge. Half an hours drive should not result in any extra charge from a dealer. Two hours might well.

 

[IslandTractor]

A SCUT is an option, but I do have other applications planned for the future I am concerned a SCUT can't handle. For example, the previous owners left a lot of garbage on the property; stuff like chunks of concrete and piles of broken brick. Also, it appears there once was a barbed wire fence on the property and when they were done with it, they simply yanked it out, wadded it up posts and all, and bulldozed it into the woods. I would really like to get that taken care of at some point. Some other projects I am considering for the future include digging a root cellar and putting up a fence for animals.

My hope is to get a tractor that will meet all of those needs and last me a good long time. Would you still consider the SCUT for these applications or would you go ahead and go for the CUT?

How do you spell GRAPPLE??

Removing debris from piles or moving scattered debris into piles is a common task for a new landowner. The need for an FEL is obvious for such a task but you also need to deal with how to clamp objects (rather than dirt) into a FEL bucket. There are a number of solutions depending on how much of this sort of work you will do and what your budget is.

Hands down the single best option is a detachable grapple. That can be purchased/delivered for about $1000. To attach the grapple you need what is called variously a QA (Quick Attach) or Skidsteer adapter or universal adapter (all synonyms for the same thing). Cost of the QA adapter depends on the tractor. Some companies (Kioti for example) provides them free with tractors 27hp and up. Dealers sell add on adapters for Kioti's smaller tractors (CK20) for about $350 or so. I don't know what such an adapter would cost for a Kubota or JD but I gotta believe someone is out there selling them.

If you don't want to deal with the QA adapter then there is another worthwhile option and that is to convert your standard bucket (part of the FEL package) into a "grapple bucket" by adding just the top arm of the grapple. This gives you a 2 in 1 tool (bucket and half grapple) that is very useful but not quite as flexible as a true grapple. Still, if your main use for a grapple is to clean up one major mess as you describe, that could be a very reasonable solution. You could either have the dealer install a grapple arm (arm costs about $350 or so, welding on to the bucket would probably cost a couple hours labor). Another option is a bolt on kit that you could easily install at home with a drill and a few wrenches. Those cost a bit more ($600 or so) but are flexible in that they allow you to remove the grapple part in a couple of minutes so it is not in the way when you don't need it. While less effective in moving brush and poles than a true grapple a bucket grapple is at least a thousand times better than trying to do that job with just a bucket and chain.

Whichever grapple type you choose, you'll need to run hydraulics to control the open/close of the upper grapple arm. The cheapest and perfectly satisfactory way to do this is to use the tractors rear remotes. That obviously requires rear remotes which dealers can install (parts about 350-500, probably a couple hours labor). Some tractors come standard with at least one rear remote. Once you have the rear remote you just need to get a hydraulic shop (or your dealer) to provide you with the appropriate length of hydraulic hose and matching fittings ($100-150) so you can run the hydraulic lines from the rear of your tractor (that is why they are called rear remotes) to the grapple. Lots of posts on TBN about the details of doing this. Takes about 20 minutes once you have the hoses/fittings etc. Again, dealer can do it for peanuts. Once you have everything set up you open and close the grapple from a lever that typically is just next to where your right hand will rest while sitting in the operator station. As my 7 yo daughter would say, easy peasy. There are other options for controling the grapple which involve tapping into the hydraulics that supply the FEL. Those options are all more expensive and might be worthwhile if you plan lots of grapple use but are definitely not the cost effective solution for occasional grapple use.

There are literally days of "what grapple" "what remote" "how to set up grapple controls" reading on TBN but the summary above should give you a pretty good idea of what is involved.

Pictures are of a grapple on a 20hp CUT. You don't need a huge tractor to use one of these effectively. There is a bucket grapple weldable arm and a bolt on kit shown too. Those (the bucket grapple types) can also be added to a SCUT without difficulty.

 

[77bronco]

Flusher: Did your remotes come as a kit? What brand are they? That looks like what I'm wanting to add to my tractor, since I only have one set of remotes, and the FEL is using those.
Sorry for the hijack, but I've been looking for a way to add more remotes at a reasonable price for awhile now...

 

[flusher]

Flusher: Did your remotes come as a kit? What brand are they? That looks like what I'm wanting to add to my tractor, since I only have one set of remotes, and the FEL is using those.
Sorry for the hijack, but I've been looking for a way to add more remotes at a reasonable price for awhile now...

No kit, just a custom design that my Mahindra dealer (Dave's Tractor in Red Bluff CA) fabricates in-house and offers to his customers. It works off the power beyond port on the FEL valve unit.

The control valve for the rear remotes is a triple unit from Dinoil. The female quick disconnects are Pioneer 3/8" size. Dave fabricates the brackets that attach the valve unit and the QDs to the fender. He also fabricates the 3/8" hydraulic hose. You can get all the stuff you need from places like Surplus Center to DIY.