Hydraulic dump for Carry-All??

[kobiedog]

Sorry, I kind of forgot the cylinder part...

The measurements you gave are not much help, you need the TL fully retracted and extended to match the new HTL. Others may be correct that you will not get the dump angle you want with the HTL alone-but it is still very useful in it's own right.

Surplus Center has these two cylinders : 9-7682, you need to subtract your retracted length from the extended length to find the "stroke" you need.

Also do the searching I recommended above.

If I retract the TL all the way the Carry-All will sit at an upward angle, opposite to the dump angle, if I extend the TL all the way the angle reverses, but is no-where close enought to dump.

The measurement I took had a 10" difference, I thought that that would be the "stroke" needed to make it dump....I know I'm out of my depth here, but I learnt to swim by jumping in the deep end.

Thank you for your patience.

PLease take a look at www.surpluscenter.com/pages/052.pdf item # 9-7258-16. Would this work??

I'm going to "borrow" the valve and hose with QD from my log splitter so the only expense I will have for this test will be a cylinder.

 

[kennyd]

If I retract the TL all the way the Carry-All will sit at an upward angle, opposite to the dump angle, if I extend the TL all the way the angle reverses, but is no-where close enought to dump.

The measurement I took had a 10" difference, I thought that that would be the "stroke" needed to make it dump....I know I'm out of my depth here, but I learnt to swim by jumping in the deep end.

Thank you for your patience.

PLease take a look at www.surpluscenter.com/pages/052.pdf item # 9-7258-16. Would this work??

I'm going to "borrow" the valve and hose with QD from my log splitter so the only expense I will have for this test will be a cylinder.

Yes, that cylinder will work fine for your dump...I assume you don't have a loader?

 

[rambler]

I got one of these:

Tractor Hydraulic toplinks, Top-N-Tilt, Side link cylinders

They have a pilot valve, so they won't drift on their own.

They are the right length to replace a top link.

Perhaps you are looking for a longer than 'right' length for your dumping needs. That will make it less handy for other uses of course.

Just another option.

--->Paul

 

[kobiedog]

Yes, that cylinder will work fine for your dump...I assume you don't have a loader?

Yes, I do have a FEL, I want to fill the bucket with firewood and the new and improved "Dumping Carry-All" with wood, to make each trip from the woods as productive as possible.

 

[JB4310]

You will be sacrificing a little of the inward movement with that 16" stroke cylinder, and wont be using all the outward stroke the cylinder is capable of, since it's extended length is 39" and you stated that with the 3 pt lifted it was 37 between the eyes with top link disconnected, and I assume the back bottom edge of your carrier touching the ground.

Unless that max dump angle is absolutely critical to your needs and didn't plan other uses for the HTL then PERHAPS the 9-7258-14" would be better. It would give you 2 more inches inward movement but you'd loose the last 2 inches dumping.

I know the dump angle is the most important spec for your firewood carryall project, but piled up firewood should dump out pretty easily except maybe the last few pieces on the bottom, and since we now know you have a loader so don't need the carryall for moving and dumping dirt. IMO the added versatility of the 14" stroke may be more practical. But another thing to consider is if you get a 3pt quick hitch that moves everything back a couple inches, then the 16" might be the better fit.

For other average chores with with HTL I find I use more of the inward travel than the outward movement, seems it's always a compromise, the HTL I got has more inward and less outward motion than the original turnbuckle. But like I said I seem to need more of the inward, especially helpful when climbing the ramps of a trailer with a long (rake) implement on the 3pt.

I do have a 3pt bucket carrier contraption that would benefit from a much longer stroke cylinder, but it would only be a single use cylinder.

Good luck, take some pics when you get it rigged up.

JB.

 

[jnjpream]

If your going to go through the trouble of putting a HTL on you may as well get one that will match your non-hydraulic top link. Then just make a mechanism to gain the extra dump angle you are looking for..

The attached is a rough drawing, but you might get the idea anyway.. The orange part is the tractor, the red/grey the cylinder, the yellow is the frame work for a lever to extend the travel distance of the cylinder. You would need to add a link from the long end of the yellow arm to the top pin of the carry-all.

This would allow you to reuse the expensive cylinder for other applications that require a standard length (range) top-link..

Even better, flip the drawing upsidedown and you wouldn't need another link. Just connect the arm directly to the carry-all top pin.

 

[Leejohn]

I have the 2X16 and it works good. Look at the picture and you can see on the front of the box there is a kicker sticking out. The cyl just hits that when dumped all the way. If they made a 2X14 it would of been just right. My top link pin hole is at 16" and it should of been 17", that would of made it not to hit and give me a little more tilt in.

 

[kobiedog]

UPDATE....

I've ordered the cylinder from Surplus Supply, it should be here in a few days.

I've measured the distance from point to point (top link) on my tiller, log splitter and disk, and they are about the same, 27" to 29".

The hydraulic cylinder fully retracted measures 23" so it looks like I'll have a lot of cylinder rod to extend which will make the Carry-All....dump.

We shall see.

I'm going to use the valve and hose from the log splitter for "test runs" and if all works then I'll go and get a new valve, hose and couplers.

I shall take photographs of the contraption and post them here for all to see.

Did I mention that my Carry-All is the best that China could produce, a "DarkHorse" from TSC, I didn't give much for it so if it doesn't make it through this...no big deal.

I want to thank the TBN members for all the constructive comments, advice, opinions and "good lucks".

I wish I was able offer advice and opinion to others on this site...but as you have probably guessed, I don't know much about this stuff.......YET!!

THANK YOU ALL!!

Kobiedog. Boone County, Indiana.

 

[kennyd]

Good luck

 

[carpenter383]

If you can't get enough dump with the cylinder, then you could make a bracket to move the end of HTL that attaches to the carry-all down a few inches (toward the lift arms) This should increase the degrees of rotation in both directions, but would add more stress to the toplink and it's attaching points.
If all else fails maybe you could gain a bit of dump angle by using the fel to lift the front of the tractor.

 

[flingwing1969]

Attached is the max dump angle I can get with my HTL and the carry-all. It tilts enough to assist with dumping most stuff, but would not clean the deck so to speak.

My HTL does not extend to the OEM specs, and with my particular cheap eBay carry-all I believe I could extend it several more inches without hazard to any equipment. So you just got to look at your particular setup.

Wouldn't your top link dump more if the bracket was moved down on the carryall frame?

 

[bdhsfz6]

I had a L3430, similar to your L3830, with backhoe and one rear remote.



I added 2 more remotes for a T&T kit by connecting to the backhoe hydraulic circuit using a Prince FEL valve and OEM connectors. I mounted the valve over the right fender on a bracket bolted to the ROPS.



The valve and QR connector project cost around $500. I got the T&T kit from Fit Rite Hydraulics.

 

[tcreeley]

I made my carryall into a dumping carryall by lowering the lift arm connect pins to the bottom corner (drilled 2 holes). I purchased the longest top cylinder I could find, and I made some bracket extensions for it to increase the reach. It works well.

 

[flingwing1969]

Very nice TCReeley. Thank you for that post. It was my plan to put the TC and the lift arm pins as low as I could on the carryall - to increase the tip and also to keep the box off the ground at full-down. I'm thinking of building a platform to set the box on when I want to go to another implement like my hoe or my snowblower.

Did you get your TC at SurplusCenter, or where did you buy it is a better question? Does your TC to carryall bracket swing or is it fixed in place? I will check your threads to see if you posted the project - hope you did. Thanks again.

 

[tcreeley]

Very nice TCReeley. Thank you for that post. It was my plan to put the TC and the lift arm pins as low as I could on the carryall - to increase the tip and also to keep the box off the ground at full-down. I'm thinking of building a platform to set the box on when I want to go to another implement like my hoe or my snowblower.

Did you get your TC at SurplusCenter, or where did you buy it is a better question? Does your TC to carryall bracket swing or is it fixed in place? I will check your threads to see if you posted the project - hope you did. Thanks again.

I just looked online for a cylinder. I was pretty clueless, and read a lot. This cylinder is close to what I got. 11" reach. They give you a measurement of it closed and open. The reach is the difference of the two measurements. The closed measurement is what you use to check if you have enough space to mount the toplink between your tractor and implement.

With it fully extended you measure to your implement to see how long the brackets have to be to close the final distance. I used 2 paralell 1/4" X 1 1/2" flat stock pieces drilled for the pins. Chain would work too, but I had the stock. The brackets always have tension on them, but they can rotate around the pins. I take the brackets off when I am using other implements besides the carryall. The hydraulic link is always on - use it with hiller, tiller, etc..

The hydraulic coupler to put on the hoses had me stymied. All new to me. I measured what I had and looked at pictures.

When I went to attach everything, I couldn't get the couplers to seat, until I disconnected the hoses from the cylinder (relieved pressure?), then I reattached the hoses to the cylinder.

Here is a link to a toplink that looks similar to mine. Once you get an idea of what you want, probably can get it anywhere.
Cat. 1: 2 7/8" - 31 7/8" | AGRISTORE USA
Good luck.

 

[flingwing1969]

Do you have full remotes in back - with a valve and levers to run you TL? If you do then you should be able to run your TL no problem. If you only have power beyond used only to connect your backhoe, then you will need to get the valve and levers for your TL to work.

Thanks for the reply BTW and for the link to the TL. Mine could be the same size as that and would work with all my implements and give me good dumps as well. I could see adding a bracket to my box as well if I needed more dump angle.

 

[npalen]

These "Carry-All" dump boxes are intriguing when one considers the myriad of capabilities. I ran across the attached product link and found the associated patent for this UTV side-by-side which shows some of the many uses of a dump box. I thought it might be of interest:

MDV LeveLift | Hustler Turf
US8157316B1 - Translating cargo bed
- Google Patents

It's probably not going to carry a ton but sure has a lot of utility.

Edit: Watch the video

 

[DJ54]

I built this one I'm thinking 10-12 years ago. Still use it every now and then. It's been a handy piece to have. I used it a lot more, than what I intended it for. Deck is 3' X 6', pretty sure it's a 2" cylinder. I got my measurements for placing the cylinder attachment points, by measuring the cylinder points on my 1 ton dump truck, and downsized to match.

The heaviest load I ever had on it was bankrun sand & gravel. I used it on the back of my Massey 180 for weight, when rolling the pad for my buildings. Just backed my dumptruck up to it, and dumped part of a load on it. Whatever stayed on, is how much was on there. Guessing near 1500 lbs. When I was finished, I dumped it off, and it dumped at an idle on the tractor. I have a cylinder for the top link tilt, so a tractor needs to have dual remotes for this to work. Nice to pitch it ahead at times to keep what your hauling, from dribbling off. Anything from firewood, spot cleaning horse stalls, and rocks out of the field. I didn't put any end sideboards on it, because I also used to haul fence posts, when building fence.

If I shovel on a load of dirt, or manure, it's time for a break anyway. A person could modify one, to suit their own needs.

 

[majorwager]

Nelson
Believe your solution is most economical/practical. Perhaps repost photos of your personal modification.

Those seeking a top link cylinder, surplus center offers swival eye ball cylinders w/ max stroke of 30". If that is too short, the attachment point is located too high on your implement.

 

[npalen]

Nelson
Believe your solution is most economical/practical. Perhaps repost photos of your personal modification.

Those seeking a top link cylinder, surplus center offers swival eye ball cylinders w/ max stroke of 30". If that is too short, the attachment point is located too high on your implement.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/392162-earth-mover-ballast-box-dump.html
This links to the pictures. The box is 4' x 3' x 1' and made of 3/16" steel.