Hydraulic dump for Carry-All??

[kobiedog]

I recently bought a Carry-All. Following the very good instructions I found on TBN, I built a strong wooden floor and sides. It is my intention to haul firewood up from the woods. My tractor is a Kubota L3830 with FEL, and has hydraulic hook up for the backhoe attachment.

Question...To make it easier to unload the Carry-All, can I instal a hydraulic cylinder instead of the top-link, and then make the carry-all dump??

It doesn't need to fully dump....just enough to have the firewood fall out.

My apologies if this is covered elsewhere on our forum, but I can't find it.

Thank you in anticipation of some great advice.

 

[Iangb]

Like this?

Hydraulic Top-Link - Category 1

 

[studor]

Of course if you are frugal, you can just undo the top link, raise the three point to dump out the firewood then lower and reattach the toplink

 

[JDGreenGrass]

Of course if you are frugal, you can just undo the top link, raise the three point to dump out the firewood then lower and reattach the toplink

Good tip right there. And, it was free.!!

 

[Leejohn]

Here is mine that dumps. It's also my weight box.

 

[kennyd]

My tractor is a Kubota L3830 with FEL, and has hydraulic hook up for the backhoe attachment.

If you only have two hoses (Power Beyond) for your backhoe, then you will need a valve also...please clarify your setup so we can help you better.

 

[JDGreenGrass]

Wouldn't the first tip put an end to this thread.??

Why does he need a cylinder at all.??

 

[texasjohn]

Leejohn, now THAT'S a carryall Great design.
I particularly like your swing tailgate for spreading dirt.

I wondered for a minute how you get dirt into the dump carryall using the FEL.

Then, it came to me, just like flipping pancakes....

scoop with FEL, FAST curl and max bucket raise, dirt flies in a semicircle over your head and lands perfectly in the carryall. Now, all we need is such an action picture with you in in the driver's seat filling the carryall with dirt

 

[Leejohn]

Yes that would be a good one... I have a B7800 also to I fill it. I have a lever on it now to unlatch the latches.

 

[kobiedog]

If you only have two hoses (Power Beyond) for your backhoe, then you will need a valve also...please clarify your setup so we can help you better.

Kenny,

Thank you for your interest in my project.

There are two hydraulic connections at the rear of my Kubota. These are used to power the B90 backhoe attachment, one is male, one is female. We bought the tractor and backhoe unit as it is, we did not add anything....we don't really know how!!

I have recently bought a 3Pt log splitter, and these same connections also power the splitter. When the hydraulic connections are not in use, they are connected to each other.

I understand I would need a valve and some hydraulic hose to make this hydraulic top link work. Since posting my original question I have found several refrences to hydraulic top links....I guess nothing is new to this forum.

If you could point me in the right direction regarding cylinder and valve I would really appreciate it.

Thank you.

I have already experimented with one of the sage suggestions, and that is to just undo the current top link and lift the 3Pt....well that works OK for me, but I'm going to recruite my wife to drive the tractor while I saw and load the firewood to haul to our outdoor boiler, she will really appreciate a dumping Carry-All..........

 

[kennyd]

OK Kobie, what you have is called a "Power Beyond" setup. The first place to start is it call your dealer and find out how much a factory "remote" is. While you can add a valve and plumbing yourself, it is nice to see what the factory option cost is, it is often not much more than doing it yourself and it looks better also.

As for the HTL (hydraulic top link), you will have to measure the extended and retracted length of your current one before I could recommend the correct cylinder.

I implore you to use the search function also-all of this has been discussed hundreds of times, maybe on a different machine but the theory is all the same...here are some terms to search for:

HTL
CCM
Remote

 

[kobiedog]

Kenny...........THANK YOU!!!!, I'm moving ahead....better than expected, thanks to you.

 

[/pine]

Sorry if this is off the wall...I may have read more into the intentions than intended...

I don't think a hydraulic top link will double as a "dumping" cylinder for a 3 pt. hitch carry all...

I would think that using a cylinder that extends farther than the factory top link could damage attachments or the hitch itself...

I do agree that the simplest way to make a dumpable carry all is by disconnecting the top link and allowing gravety to dump the load...

Again...sorry if I misinterpreted intentions...

 

[kennyd]

Sorry if this is off the wall...I may have read more into the intentions than intended...

I don't think a hydraulic top link will double as a "dumping" cylinder for a 3 pt. hitch carry all...

I would think that using a cylinder that extends farther than the factory top link could damage attachments or the hitch itself...

I do agree that the simplest way to make a dumpable carry all is by disconnecting the top link and allowing gravety to dump the load...

Again...sorry if I misinterpreted intentions...

How would you "disconnect the top link" if there is a load on it?

Would you get out of your seat, and pull the pins holding your bucket to dump it? No, you use hydraulics! The miracle of little O-Rings!

No damage will be done to the hitch by extending further than the factory TL. Maybe the HTL is not the answer-but he still needs a valve so he is moving in the correct direction.

 

[rambler]

No damage will be done to the hitch by extending further than the factory TL. Maybe the HTL is not the answer-but he still needs a valve so he is moving in the correct direction.

A htl is cool. I have one.

I will disagree with you - it can damage the top link frame depending on how it is built.

Also, I will disagree that it works - I made a platform on a carryall fram, and the typical hyd top link will not extend enough to really dump. It is designed to average about in the middle of a normal top link length, so it will shorten about as much as it lengthens.

As such, it won't go long enough to actually dump. A little bit will slide off, but it won't dump off clean.

If he uses a longer cylinder for the top link so it extends farther, he really needs to watch the top framework of his carry all - as the angles increase, most of them will bind up with the cylinder & bust something. He'd need the right type of design for the top link hole for this to work.

Nice idea, I'm not knocking it. But, with the average carrier, and the average top link cylinder, it won't work.....

--->Paul

 

[Cocre]

Attached is the max dump angle I can get with my HTL and the carry-all. It tilts enough to assist with dumping most stuff, but would not clean the deck so to speak.

My HTL does not extend to the OEM specs, and with my particular cheap eBay carry-all I believe I could extend it several more inches without hazard to any equipment. So you just got to look at your particular setup.

 

[kobiedog]

The first place to start is it call your dealer and find out how much a factory "remote" is. While you can add a valve and plumbing yourself, it is nice to see what the factory option cost is, it is often not much more than doing it yourself and it looks better also.

As for the HTL (hydraulic top link), you will have to measure the extended and retracted length of your current one before I could recommend the correct cylinder.

Kenny,

I called the dealer, he knew exactly what I wanted, a base kit and lever is $467, the valve is $293......so it's back to the drawing board on that end of this project.

The current regular top link measures 27" from pin to pin in the normal level position on the Carry-All. When I remove the pin and lift the 3Pt to the "dump" position the measurement is 37" pin to pin.

 

[kennyd]

Kenny,

I called the dealer, he knew exactly what I wanted, a base kit and lever is $467, the valve is $293......so it's back to the drawing board on that end of this project.

The current regular top link measures 27" from pin to pin in the normal level position on the Carry-All. When I remove the pin and lift the 3Pt to the "dump" position the measurement is 37" pin to pin.

A new valve will be just shy of $200, add hoses and QD's to hook it up for about another $100-$150 or so, plus you will have to fabricate a mount. You can make it a permanent install, or just "plug it in" when the backhoe is removed. Then you will need hoses and QD's to go to the cylinder...plus the price of the cylinder itself.

There is NOTHING about hydraulic that's cheap except for O-rings and advice here!

 

[kobiedog]

A new valve will be just shy of $200, add hoses and QD's to hook it up for about another $100-$150 or so, plus you will have to fabricate a mount. You can make it a permanent install, or just "plug it in" when the backhoe is removed. Then you will need hoses and QD's to go to the cylinder...plus the price of the cylinder itself.

There is NOTHING about hydraulic that's cheap except for O-rings and advice here!

Yes, I have come to same conclusion regarding cost when talking hydraulic.

However, I'd like to get a cost on the cylinder, so if you could point me in that direction.

I once again really appreciate the constructive input.

I can deal with the cost of the valve and fittings...it's the cylinder and which one to get and where that I'm worried about.

 

[kennyd]

Yes, I have come to same conclusion regarding cost when talking hydraulic.

However, I'd like to get a cost on the cylinder, so if you could point me in that direction.

I once again really appreciate the constructive input.

I can deal with the cost of the valve and fittings...it's the cylinder and which one to get and where that I'm worried about.

Sorry, I kind of forgot the cylinder part...

The measurements you gave are not much help, you need the TL fully retracted and extended to match the new HTL. Others may be correct that you will not get the dump angle you want with the HTL alone-but it is still very useful in it's own right.

Surplus Center has these two cylinders : 9-7682, you need to subtract your retracted length from the extended length to find the "stroke" you need.

Also do the searching I recommended above.