Snow Turf Tires in the Snow

[Reg]

Lawn "damage" isn't much about tread patterns or ballast, it is MUCH more about making tight radius turns when the ground is wet.

 

[nh DRAGON]

Lawn "damage" isn't much about tread patterns or ballast, it is MUCH more about making tight radius turns when the ground is wet.

I agree, But If some one is willing to pay me to drive over there lawn and give me seat time I want it to look good. Just think the extra weight would make it worse that is all.

 

[taborekle]

seems to me that milling is blacktop all grinded upfrom old roads/driveways and put down loose. blacktop is , well blacktop. - lol

The confusion on this is all mine. I switched adjactives describing our road as having milling and then said the blacktop was showing. It's all milling.

Larry

 

[lawn_king]

Turfs are the best in snow, second only to chains & tracks.

 

[taborekle]

Lawn "damage" isn't much about tread patterns or ballast, it is MUCH more about making tight radius turns when the ground is wet.

I agree with Reg on this. You can (and I have) tore up a piece of my lawn with my turf tires. The ground was saturated wet, and even with out turning the turf tires were leaving their marks.

To me, if the ground is dry and hard, neither tire should leave a mark provided that you're making slow turns. The advantage of turf is that they can operate in softer wetter ground before they also start to leave a mark. Eventually, if the ground is wet and soft enough, it really doesn't matter what tire you have or how you turn the tractor, it's going to leave a mark.

Now that's based on -my- limited experience in my area with my type of ground. I'm sure that others have different types of soil that will react differently.

Larry

 

[Reg]

For ME it is a matter of balancing other uses.
I feel a "need" for loaded R4s and a "need" to NOT load my turfs.
The two sets aren't optimal in ALL conditions, but they give me a choice between two compromises.
I suppose OPTIMAL would be to have all six sets, R1s, R4s, Turfs each in a loaded and unloaded condition - it ain't happenin' at THIS address (-:

Another thing I COULD do to minimize lawn damage would be to take the loader off, but HEY, that is about half the tractor's usefulness.

 

[Czbilly]

For those of you with 1850 size rear tires, the older cub cadet/wheel horse wheel weights will bolt inside your rims. These typically weigh about 26 lbs for a total of about 52-55 lbs right on the tires. This may be a way to get weight for winter or specific jobs and can be easily taken off for spring mowing. You only need two of the carriage bolts for each wheel. If you can get your hands on these they may be easier than the rimguard or loading the tires. I've been lazy in changing over to my bar tires so far this winter and will probably slap the weights on and see how the turf tires work here in Ohio.

 

[easygo]

I agree, But If some one is willing to pay me to drive over there lawn and give me seat time I want it to look good. Just think the extra weight would make it worse that is all.

That is a whole different issue if you tear up a customer's lawn.
Don't get me wrong I used my tractor for two years without loaded rears and it was fine. The added weight does help me in the woods and in my bumpy yard and makes no difference to my ugly grass.

 

[timswi]

I'm glad to hear that the turf's do well in the snow...Mine has sat in a heated garage all winter for the last five years because I didn't think it would even move in the snow, never tried it (my bad)..Now when I need to move snow piles, I have an option

 

[irvingj]

Turfs with a blower work very well for me. I leave the BH on for rear weight. If using a plow, I'm not sure turfs would work as well, but for my situation they're great. Have never used chains, only sometimes need 4WD.

Course, a cab would be nice, too....