Snow 20" Too Much Snow

[farm23]

We have over 20" and 18 degrees. I went to the barn to start my 1430 and clear a path to the road so we could go to church tomorrow. The 1430 started great but when I started to come out of the barn the snow was so deep the undercarriage hung up and the tires started to spin. I guess we will stay home tomorrow unless someone has an idea how to handle really deep snow. One of the disadavantages of our PT is when a wheel spins we loose traction.

 

[sal64]

chains.

 

[thatguy]

Do you have a FEL/bucket on the front? I dont own a PT, but a compact tractor, and in our 12" of snow I was able to float the FEL and push the snow a pretty good ways.. When I lost traction I just backed up and started dumping the snow to the side.. Then went back to pushing down the same track until I lost traction again.. lather rinse repeat

Not the most efficient - especially if you cant get the snow off the road.. But I was able to open up some space to be able to turn around push from different directions.. BUT I am going to look for some chains, i lost traction way too many times..

brian

 

[farm23]

I have been reading some of the old threads and came to the conclusion that come Monday I would order chains. Now to pick which ones.

 

[RegL]

If you do get chains, get the one's with cleats. I bought a set without the cleats and they were just about worthless. I also found they didn't work out very well because of so little clearance on the inside of tires. I have turf tires and don't usually have traction problems unless the snow is wet and clogs up the treads in the tires. I do 8 driveways with the light material bucket. I have a plow but that doesn't work as well for me.

 

[farm23]

I am thinking of getting the ATV6152 diamond pattern from tirechainsrequired.com, but am open to all suggestions.

 

[tracdoc]

I had the same exact problem today in southwestern VA---20" snowfall overnight, and my PT425 was under shed roof ready to go. Only problem was the deep snow AND the fact that I had to go up a pretty steep hill to get to my driveway. Shoulda' moved the tractor last night, but then it woulda' been full of snow! Anyhoo, I managed by using the 5' plow to skim layer by layer inching forward bit by bit. I have used the light materials bucket with success, but today the snow blade took the cake. The left-right angling of the blade is very helpful---you can go into the snow forward w/ blade vertical and straight ahead, and as the snow starts to build up, tilt the blade up to scoop up a load, and then use the right-left angle as you are lifting it to chute the load to whatever side you want. I managed to do the 900' driveway today (took 4+ hr), and the blade saved the day.

I had chains on all 4 wheels today. In the past, I used chains only on the front, but I wasn't fooling around today. I got my chains from www.tirechains.com out of Johnstown, PA. I've ordered stuff from them twice and they are excellent to work with---the stuff you want is in stock, and they ship same day, and prices are great. For the PT425 I am using GT18-2 -Two Link Heavy Duty Tractor Chains fitted to my standard BAR tread tires. I would caution about two things:

1) think twice before getting chains with an aggressive cleated link pattern if you have a finished asphalt driveway. Those chains will eat your driveway for lunch. I had no problems with "HD" chains on all 4 wheels today.
2) I would also caution that if you get chains for a PT, do not get ATV chains. Most ATV chains are made for ATV tires which are much rounder at the shoulders than the PT wheels. The folks at tirechains.com will point you in the right direction.

My driveway is about 200' downhill and 700' uphill, and I have to plow up hill to get to the street. The 6-way action of the blade, especially the left-right when the blade is up in the air and tilted back is a very effective technique to chute snow out of the path you are making.

I would definitely not want to make a living doing this with a PT425 in 20" snow on 900' driveways. Me thinks it would be better to have a PT snowblower attachment for that scenario. Today was a very long day, but a satisfying one. We may see more of this white stuff here next week to finish out a year which has been one of the top 5 wettest years in this area.

 

[MossRoad]

We have over 20" and 18 degrees. I went to the barn to start my 1430 and clear a path to the road so we could go to church tomorrow. The 1430 started great but when I started to come out of the barn the snow was so deep the undercarriage hung up and the tires started to spin. I guess we will stay home tomorrow unless someone has an idea how to handle really deep snow. One of the disadavantages of our PT is when a wheel spins we loose traction.

Your 1430 weighs quite a bit more than my PT425, so I guess I have to ask a few questions...

First, how can the undercarriage be getting hung up if you are clearing a path in front of you?

I back my PT25 into the garage with the blade facing out so once I get the doors open with a shovel (they swing out side to side) I clear down to the ground from the very start. I am always driving on a cleared path. In really deep snow I just push off at alternating angles until I clear a path to my snow storage area(s), then go back and shave off the sides of the path with the blade angled straight, pushing the snow to the storage area(s) and stacking it.

Second, what tires do you have? I have turf tires and they work excellent on cleared asphalt and flat grass. I do crab walk on side slopes, however, so it would be easy to get off a cleared path on a side slope. If we had more slopes I would get tire chains, but right now, we do not need them.

When one of my wheels spins I still have pretty good traction from the other side. The only time I have some trouble is if both front wheels are off the ground because I have the blade pushed down instead of floating when back dragging on a icy pavement, like when pulling snow away from a gate or my other garage doors.

 

[farm23]

Tracdoc thanks for the info. I have the 5' bucket with a Markham tooth bar installed. I don't have any pavement to worry about and it is 1/4 mile to the road. I wonder if I should take the Markham off before moving snow?

 

[farm23]

I have bar tires and the tractor was headed into the barn [will not make that mistake again]
Today there were drifts in front of the barn and I guess I could have tired to shovel a path but the drifts were high and many and I was lazy. I have found when one tire starts to spin there is often not enough traction on the others to get out of serious toruble. I was able to retrace my path and get back into the barn. Which is where the tractor will stay till I get chains[if the snow doesn't melt I still may have to shovel some]

 

[Gravy]

I had the same exact problem today in southwestern VA---20" snowfall overnight, and my PT425 was under shed roof ready to go. Only problem was the deep snow AND the fact that I had to go up a pretty steep hill to get to my driveway. Shoulda' moved the tractor last night, but then it woulda' been full of snow! Anyhoo, I managed by using the 5' plow to skim layer by layer inching forward bit by bit. I have used the light materials bucket with success, but today the snow blade took the cake. The left-right angling of the blade is very helpful---you can go into the snow forward w/ blade vertical and straight ahead, and as the snow starts to build up, tilt the blade up to scoop up a load, and then use the right-left angle as you are lifting it to chute the load to whatever side you want. I managed to do the 900' driveway today (took 4+ hr), and the blade saved the day.

I had chains on all 4 wheels today. In the past, I used chains only on the front, but I wasn't fooling around today. I got my chains from www.tirechains.com out of Johnstown, PA. I've ordered stuff from them twice and they are excellent to work with---the stuff you want is in stock, and they ship same day, and prices are great. For the PT425 I am using GT18-2 -Two Link Heavy Duty Tractor Chains fitted to my standard BAR tread tires. I would caution about two things:

1) think twice before getting chains with an aggressive cleated link pattern if you have a finished asphalt driveway. Those chains will eat your driveway for lunch. I had no problems with "HD" chains on all 4 wheels today.
2) I would also caution that if you get chains for a PT, do not get ATV chains. Most ATV chains are made for ATV tires which are much rounder at the shoulders than the PT wheels. The folks at tirechains.com will point you in the right direction.

My driveway is about 200' downhill and 700' uphill, and I have to plow up hill to get to the street. The 6-way action of the blade, especially the left-right when the blade is up in the air and tilted back is a very effective technique to chute snow out of the path you are making.

I would definitely not want to make a living doing this with a PT425 in 20" snow on 900' driveways. Me thinks it would be better to have a PT snowblower attachment for that scenario. Today was a very long day, but a satisfying one. We may see more of this white stuff here next week to finish out a year which has been one of the top 5 wettest years in this area.

Tracdoc,

I'm lucky - Aside from parking areas, my driveway is all downhill. I spent about 6 hours on my 425 today clearing snow.

I'm also impressed - It was all I could do to push the snow downhill. There were at least a dozen instances where I almost couldn't even back up the slope afterwards.

I cannot imagine plowing this snow uphill. It might be partly due to my chains - I clicked the wrong box and got the 4-link chains. OTOH, even if the traction improved, I wouldn't have the wheel torque to push snow uphill.

I'm supposed to fly to Texas on Thursday. I sure hope the weather cooperates for the following week or so...

 

[farm23]

I have bar tires and the tractor was headed into the barn & there was not room to turn it around [will not make that mistake again]
Today there were drifts in front of the barn and I guess I could have tired to shovel a path but the drifts were high and many and I was lazy. I have found when one tire starts to spin there is often not enough traction on the others to get out of serious toruble. I was able to retrace my path and get back into the barn. Which is where the tractor will stay till I get chains[if the snow doesn't melt I still may have to shovel some]

 

[MossRoad]

I have bar tires and the tractor was headed into the barn [will not make that mistake again]
Today there were drifts in front of the barn and I guess I could have tired to shovel a path but the drifts were high and many and I was lazy. I have found when one tire starts to spin there is often not enough traction on the others to get out of serious toruble. I was able to retrace my path and get back into the barn. Which is where the tractor will stay till I get chains[if the snow doesn't melt I still may have to shovel some]

Yeah, we all find better ways to do stuff after we try the not so good ways first! After much experimentation I have found that I should back it in with the plow up against the doors. I then plug in my battery trickle charger. When I go to plow snow, I shovel the walkway from the house to the garage, then shovel out the double doors just enough to open them so I can get the tractor out. I then go in through the side door, open the double doors from the inside and start up the tractor. Once it is started I let it run at 1/2 throttle while I finish shoveling the walkways, steps and gates by hand. That usually takes exactly 10 minutes. By that time the hydraulics are completely warm and the tractor is ready to plow.

Just a note for winter prep... disconnect, clean and reconnect those battery cables now and get a trickle charger to keep it at peak charge for easier starting. Also, a can of starting fluid can be a lifesaver. I usually give it a shot before attempting to start if it is below 20F. The first few years I didn't use the fluid. My battery lasted 6 years, I believe. But I have noticed that it is a tad harder to start now. Maybe I should replace the original plugs that I've never had out?

 

[tracdoc]

Tracdoc thanks for the info. I have the 5' bucket with a Markham tooth bar installed. I don't have any pavement to worry about and it is 1/4 mile to the road. I wonder if I should take the Markham off before moving snow?

I too have a Markham toothbar on my L/M bucket farm23. Of course, my L/M bucket is considerably smaller than yours. When I use it for snow, I remove the toothbar, and then I don't have to worry about gouging or get jolted outa my seat when I do . That's one of the real advantages of the Markham. I use Never-Seeze on the threads of the bolts and removing it is a piece of cake.

A quarter of a mile is longer than my drive by some 400+ feet, and those da** feet seem to get longer every winter, don't they? This snow may be a once in 10 year event, but if you don't have a snow blade it may be a tool to consider in future.

 

[farm23]

Moss my barn doesn't have electric but I have found by using my tractor many time a week the alternator does a good job. I will propably have to replace the battery before next year [it will be 4 years old and that is a long time for a diesel battery]

 

[tracdoc]

Tracdoc,

I'm lucky - Aside from parking areas, my driveway is all downhill. I spent about 6 hours on my 425 today clearing snow.

I'm also impressed - It was all I could do to push the snow downhill. There were at least a dozen instances where I almost couldn't even back up the slope afterwards.

I cannot imagine plowing this snow uphill. It might be partly due to my chains - I clicked the wrong box and got the 4-link chains. OTOH, even if the traction improved, I wouldn't have the wheel torque to push snow uphill.

I'm supposed to fly to Texas on Thursday. I sure hope the weather cooperates for the following week or so...

We can't live more than 3-4 miles from each other, Gravy.....one of these days we've got to get together. Me thinks we should be OK weatherwise for next week, but something is brewing for Christmas. Hope you have a good trip. PM me when you have a chance after your return.

 

[Bob999]

My experience with a skid steer (much heavier than a 1430) is that chains won't get you out of problems if snow builds up under the machine--the built up snow simply lifts the machine and even with chains it goes no where.
The solution is as Mossroad describes--never let snow get under the machine. With any machine you always want to work from a cleared area into the uncleared area.

 

[farm23]

Bob999 you are right on, if snow builds up under the frame you will not get traction even with chains. It is 13:00 Sunday and I have spent the last 3 hours just getting the PT up to the house. I have learned a lot the last 2 days.

1] Get the PT in my shop next to the driveway, I willl have to move a lot of stuff but it will be worth the effort.

2] Do not let the snow build up past 5" or so.

3] I will order chains Monday to help with getting up the drivway to the road. I have virtually no flat land. Because of the slopes I got the 1430 in lieu of the 425.

4] I may also get the blade (they are on sale till the end of December) from PT. Does anyone have an opinion of how useful the caster wheel kit from PT is for other applications?

 

[tracdoc]

Bob999 you are right on, if snow builds up under the frame you will not get traction even with chains. It is 13:00 Sunday and I have spent the last 3 hours just getting the PT up to the house. I have learned a lot the last 2 days.

1] Get the PT in my shop next to the driveway, I willl have to move a lot of stuff but it will be worth the effort.

2] Do not let the snow build up past 5" or so.

3] I will order chains Monday to help with getting up the drivway to the road. I have virtually no flat land. Because of the slopes I got the 1430 in lieu of the 425.

4] I may also get the blade (they are on sale till the end of December) from PT. Does anyone have an opinion of how useful the caster wheel kit from PT is for other applications?

I think the chains are going to give you the best bang for the buck farm23. When I got them, they were ~$55/pair. When I got the 1st pair, they threw in the spring spreaders. when I got the 2nd pair, that sale was off, but the spreaders were under $10/pr. Definitely get the spreaders. They keep the chains snug and uniform around the carcass.

I have no experience with casters on blades, but hopefully someone who does will chime in. On my 5' blade w/o casters, I have the freedom to tilt the blade infinitely as I may need. I don't know if that's influenced by having casters or not.

 

[SpringHollow]

If you want to save a LOT of money, get an old used snow plow from a truck and weld on attachment plate for your tractor. That is what i did - bought a $100 plow and added an attachment plate and some braces.

Ken