log splitter H or I beam question

[trialsguy]

I have 2 different beams that I want to make a log splitter rail out of, tell me which one would be the stronger

first is a 6x6x1/4 meaning it is 6" wide on the flats and the middle riser is 6" tall but its only a 1/4 thick

or a 4"x 6 1/2"x 3/8" thick this may be my choice because it is 6' long but its not as wide on the flats which I guess wouldnt be that big of a deal I could make a wider splitting table where the log lays to split.
I am not sure how much pump pressure I will have, its on a 18 horse ingersol tractor but I plan on using a 4" ram that is 20"

Are either of these going to be heavy enough?

Thanks

 

[Cami]

The ultimate strength of the beam might not be as important as its stiffness; how much it deflects under load. Look for online beam calculators.

If you don't feel like playing engineer, then just look at a splitter with a simlar sized pump and ram to see what they do.

 

[Egon]

Go for the I beam.

 

[towmotor]

Over the length of the typical log splitter, I doubt it will make much difference which one you use, in terms of stiffness/deflection, as long as you mount the "dead" end of your cylinder in a clevis-which you probably had planned anyway.

The wider flange would give you greater flexibility in your mounting arrangement. You didn't say whether your cylinder has a welded cross tube, a single or double clevis or whatever- if it has a double clevis then mounting the single clevis to the 4" flange would be a simple deal.

Anyway, I'm sitting here looking at my steel shapes chart and I can see your 6x6x1/4 - (called a W6 x 15#). What I'm not seeing is the 4x6 1/2 x3/8. I can see a
4 x 6 1/4x3/8 (W6 x 16#), which actually measures 3/8 in the flange and 1/4 in the web.

I would imagine that building an effective slipper pad for the "live" end of the cylinder would be easier with the 6" flange, so that's what I'd go with. If there were any concerns about the beam bending, it could be stiffened along the upper flange.
I doubt it will be an issue if your cylinder only has a 20" stroke.

 

[justneedit]

Trailsguy, How about going with the heavier 3/8" thick beam and then weld on a piece of 3/8" or 1/2" x 6" flat bar or plate to the top flange so you have a wider flange for the push plate to slide on? That's how I built mine cause that's what was laying around at the time.

 

[Dead Horse]

I have to say that the quality of advice one can get here is awesome..........

it really is.

 

[trialsguy]

Boy Dead Horse you are not kidding on the quality of advice, Thank you guys for the help.

couple things I am not sure of the terminology like double clevis. Is this where the ram attaches or say the eyelet? My cylinder has two metal flanges where it would straddle a single metal anchor point

It also has four long bolts the length of the cylinder that bolts it together.

I will check the scrap piles to see if I can find a flat plate to use on the top. I like that idea since the I Beam is actually the length that I am thinking of.

Not sure what cross welded means

 

[brandoro]

I used an "I" beam for my splitter with a 4" diameter 24" long ram, mostly because that is what I had. No problems with stiffness even at maximum pressure. Maximum is when I can hear it start to bypass, which is rare enough with the wood I am usually splitting. Most of the time it walks through whatever blocks I set on it. Mine is powered by the tractor hydraulics. The spool I used bypasses at 2000 psi which is a bit less than the tractor can deliver.

 

[oldmech]

Hi! I make a wood splitter. I use 4x4 in. H beam On very hard wood the H beam bend or flex a little bit so more high beam is better as 4x6 in. I use 5/8 5grade bolts for improve later. My edge cutter work very well.I join some picts. Good luck ! Oldmech

 

[towmotor]

Cross welded simply means that the cylinder has a sleeve or bushing welded perpendicular to the centerline. A single clevis (or eyelet) would need to be welded on each side, and the pin would be inserted through both clevises and the sleeve.

What you described having on your cylinder is a double clevis.

 

[trialsguy]

Dug through my buddies steel pile this morning and found a piece of flat that measure 8" wide by 1/2" thick by 5' long, I think this will be perfect for welding on top to give me a better platform for building the guide for the ram. There is enough that I can probably build all that I need out of the 1/2" now I need to round up a peice that I can cut down for the knife wedge.

would the half make a wide enough knife if I welded say some angle to help spread the wood or does the knife need to be a heavier steel to work properly.

Has anyone ever used to peices side by side then weldedd the knife edge together.

I am going to try and get started on the build this weekend, I am trying to see if my Brother can fit the beam in his home built powder coat oven, That would be cool

 

[towmotor]

If you look at oldmech's splitter (post #9, this thread) it looks as if he made a built-up wedge with lighter material than what you're talking about.

 

[sizzami]

the cylinder you descibe is a tie rod clevis does the end have two flanges too?
if so then it is a tie rod double clevis cylinder.

 

[MichiganIron]

The 4" deep beam is not going to have the section modulus (stiffness) needed for a splitter. We wouldn't use anything less than a W6x25 for 3" and 4" splitters @2400psi, and a W8x40 for above 4" bore splitters @2400psi. There is a considerable moment induced in the backbone of a log splitter from the eccentric load from the center of the splitter wedge to the center of the backbone beam. The stresses from the induced moment need to be added to the tensile stress, or combined stress.

Apply the splitter force (depending on the cylcinder and pressure) at the centerline of the wedge. Calculate the moment induced, extreme fiber stress, and add than to the fiber stress due to tension. If the beam is A36, which is the most common for older small sections, your allowable stress is 24 ksi. Make sure you are under the allowable. Check deflection the same way.

If you don't want to run the numbers, use a W6x25 for a 3-4" cyclinder at 2400 psi, a W8x40 @3000psi.

 

[trialsguy]

the cylinder you descibe is a tie rod clevis does the end have two flanges too?
if so then it is a tie rod double clevis cylinder.

Yes both ends are double flanged.


with the flex be reduced when I weld the 1/2 by 8" wide plate across the top giving me a wider cutting table and possibly working as a stiff back?

 

[towmotor]

with the flex be reduced when I weld the 1/2 by 8" wide plate across the top

It certainly won't hurt.

I don't want to start a spitting for distance contest with MichiganIron, because if I were in the business of building these things for other people, then I'd order the right steel section to begin with, as he does. My name is going with the equipment, my future, my financial well being.

You just want to build a splitter out of some steel you have lying around. As long as you accept the caveat that MI has expressed and proceed with caution, you should be okay.
OldMech's splitter should be ample evidence of that.

 

[bobodu]

Wow....I'm surprised the knife v. wedge war hasn't started!!

 

[towmotor]

Did you fight in this war?

I didn't know there was a war....

 

[trialsguy]

LOL That was my next question, I am going to do a search instead

 

[GIJOE]

It ended up being a COLD WAR. As the battle between the two super powers (the knife and the wedge) raged on, no one knew what to use, no wood was split for the winter and therefore no one was able to keep warm.

Joe