Removing fel - installing snowblower

[skywaterbanjo]

I have been plowing my driveway for the past 2 winters with the fel and a 5' rear blade on a B7800. It is taking me way too long with this setup. My driveway is dirt/gravel and about 600' long, steep in spots. I'm frustrated that I scrape up so much of the driveway until it freezes. We had an 18" snowfall on Monday and I spent 7 hours yesterday trying to get it clean without destroying the driveway itself.
I'm considering a B2782 snowblower.
I have several questions for this great forum:
1) How critical is the hydraulic chute deflector?
2) Is the chute rotator also available hydraulically or do you all just use the manual crank?
3) Does anyone have any photos of the process to remove the fel and install the blower?
4) How long does it take to remove the fel and install the blower? Is it a pretty straightforward process?
5) What should I expect to pay for this setup?

I almost went out yesterday and upgraded the B7800 for a heavier machine but I really like the size/maneuverablity of the my tractor.

I have had a hard time finding a source for the snowblower and the hydraulic chute accessories. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Mark in Colorado
'08 B7800

 

[ChuckinNH]

Mark, Kubota is the only reasonably priced source for a front mounted snowblower for your B7800. Taking the loader off only takes a few minutes, and there is no physical work involved, and no tools. You lower the stands that are pinned to the loader arms, lower the bucket with some forward curl, and then roll the bucket back just a bit to relieve the pressure on the two pins in your loader towers. You can reach forward from the seat, and remove those pins. Once the pins are out, you continue to roll the bucket back until the loader arms clear the mounts. You then back up a few inches, shut down, relieve the pressure in the hydraulic hoses by moving the joystick around a bit, and then disconnect the hoses, and back away. It takes me almost as long to type it as it does to do it.

The B7800 uses a longer, and heavier subframe than the B2630, B3030, and the new B3200, and I would think it would take a floor jack to get it mounted alone. Once that is pinned in place under the tractor, the blower mounts easily, and is a quick disconnect setup. The good news is that the loader can be used if needed with the subframe still mounted though care has to be taken with ground clearance. Folks that have this set up will chime in hopefully, but this will give you an idea what to expect. I would expect that you are looking at $4500 to $5000 or so depending on options for the complete setup. Something like a Blizzard rear mounted blower is about half that price for your tractor.

 

[Ductape]

The 7800 is a great tractor, definitely keep it. The B2782 is what i'd describe as a 'commercial duty' blower. It's construction is much heavier than the smaller blowers Kubota uses on the smaller Bs and BXs. I do a fair amount of snowblowing, including several of my neighbors' driveways, and i've never so much as broken a shear bolt. If your wallet allows, I strongly recommend the hydraulic chute deflector (BL2666) and the hydraulic chute rotation (B2784). Kubota offers electric options as well, but in my opinion... hydraulic is forever, with no ice or freezing concerns. There have been plenty of members who've made their own hydraulic and electric chute controls, so it might be worthwhile to spend a couple hours reading here. Removing the loader takes less than five minutes. Installing both my subframe and blower probably takes fifteen minutes. Once my blower is installed for the season, i find no need for the loader till spring, so there is no switching back and forth for me. I have to give Kubota credit...... their attachments are well thought out, and quality built.

 

[rbargeron]

.....I'm considering a B2782 snowblower.
I have several questions for this great forum:
1) How critical is the hydraulic chute deflector?
2) Is the chute rotator also available hydraulically or do you all just use the manual crank?
3) Does anyone have any photos of the process to remove the fel and install the blower?
4) How long does it take to remove the fel and install the blower? Is it a pretty straightforward process?
5) What should I expect to pay for this setup?

1) chute deflector is much less important than the rotator - unless your place has limited places to put the snow..
2) rotators can be manual, hydraulic, or electric
3) mounting/dismounting front attachments is a slightly different process for each tractor model - but once you've done it a few times its very straight forward. A flat parking surface makes it easier.
4) the first time will seem long - but you'll get quicker with practice. The loader takes longer than the blower. Figure 15-30 minutes maybe.
5) others will be more familiar with prices for this size setup.

Just changed my machine over for winter - doors and windows back on the cab, tire chains on, loader off, snowblower mounted. I have a 6-foot front-mount Erskine blower that drives from the rear pto. I've re-mounted the loader valve in the cab and added quick-connectors so it operates either FEL or the snowblower.

 

[Tig]

Hydraulic chute deflector is probably less important than rotation for most. I use both and I find it important because we have driving wind most of the time and my lane changes direction. I have to throw the snow where mother nature wants me to. If I can, I throw it high and let the wind carry it away so it does not contribute to the drifting when the wind changes direction. I also like to throw it towards the natural drainage so it does not haunt me during a thaw. But most of all I try to keep it out of my face.
In several places I have to be considerate of the neighbours. In particular the boys home has a smoking area just off the end of my lane. I'd hate to make the cold smoke break any worse by causing a blizzard. On that stretch I throw the snow straight down in front of me to carry it past them. Once I'm clear I throw as far as I can.

 

[ChuckinNH]

In this picture, you can see the difference in the sub frame on the B7800. It is pretty heavy, and quite different than the one on the B3030 in the other picture.

 

[skywaterbanjo]

Great information.

So, I'm finding that there is about a 4 week backlog in trying to get a 2782. Still looking.

Do you normally remove the subframe at the end of the season? All the dealers are saying that is the hardest part of the install.

My dealer wants $6000 for the blower installed, no hyd chute deflector or rotator. Seems high to me. Says he won't have one until mid-late January.

Has anyone done the whole install from the individual components?

 

[Ductape]

I have a 3030, not a 7800........ but, yes i do remove the quick hitch (subframe) at the end of winter. It takes a few minutes (literally) to remove. Your dealers price sounds high to me...... shopping around will tell you for sure. If you have a reasonable ability to turn a few wrenches, there is no reason you shouldn't be able to do the install yourself and save on the labor charges. Installation is very straightforward. It certainly wouldn't surprise me that there would be a back log of orders for the blower. In this economy, i can't imagine dealers wanting to sit on a large inventory hoping they'll sell. Couldn't blame them for ordering blowers (and other attachments) as the customers place orders with them.

 

[JTPass]

Sky...,
I recently purchased and had installed a 63" Kubota 2782A, hydraulic chute rotate, electric chute deflect and subframe/hitch for $5900 on a B3200 which I purchased at that dealership a month or 2 before. He did take a few hundred off his standard pricing because I bought the tractor there.
Good luck with your search.

Jim from NH

 

[skywaterbanjo]

Thanks, Jim. That is helpful.

I am going to have to order one of these things which is going to take over a month to get.

Quick question: If you have a hydraulic lifter and a hydraulic chute rotator, what do you use to control the hydraulic chute deflector. My 7800 only has a two valve system.

Mark in Colorado
'08 B7800

 

[JTPass]

Mark,

I have a B3200 which has the loader valve(s) mounted on the tractor. I am not sure about the B7800. I simply attach the Snowblower "up-down" hydraulic hoses to the "up-down" quick disconnects on the loader valve. The chute rotate hydraulic hoses are attached to the bucket "curl and dump" quick disconnects. When it is complete pushing the loader joystick forward drops the snowblower, moving it back raises it, moving it to the right spins the chute to the right and moving it to the left spins the chute to the left. The chute deflector is electrically operated. A switch controls the deflector "up and down". It is a great set-up. I would expect that the B7800 would be controlled the same way.
I hope that helps.

Jim from NH

 

[Ductape]

Quick question: If you have a hydraulic lifter and a hydraulic chute rotator, what do you use to control the hydraulic chute deflector. My 7800 only has a two valve system.

Mark in Colorado
'08 B7800

The hydraulic chute deflector comes with its own electric/hydraulic diverter. It also uses the dump / curl circuit....... move the joystick left or right to turn the chute, flip the switch, then left / right moves the chute deflector up or down.

 

[smfcpacfp]

I think the hydraulic chute deflector is more important if you live in an area where you have to worry about throwing snow on the neighbor's property. I don't, but I doubt that there isn't a day that I wish I had one (like Ductape's) installed. It is one of my projects next summer.

I don't think anyone mentioned that you can get the hydraulic chute rotator. I would definitely have one of those.

I am not as fast as Ductape (20 minutes for the whole job). I think I spend more time remembering how to do things. My wife helps me. The FEL removal is a pretty quick job, less than a half hour.

Putting on the snow blower is simple, but the carriage is a little more time consuming and a floor jack is helpful in holding everything in place while you get the pin in place. I couldn't imagine doing this job alone, especially lining up the drive shaft from the blower to the carriage. I am going to say it takes an hour, or so. If I did it every day, I would probably be pretty good at it, but I do it once a year.

 

[skywaterbanjo]

I pulled the trigger on a 2782a with hydraulic chute rotator for a total of $6000. That includes the dealer coming to pick up my tractor, installing, and returning it. I live about 30 miles from the dealer. I'm ok with this.

I'm trying to decide about the deflector. Smfcpacfp, thanks for your input. I don't have any neighbors to worry about, either, but I think it would be handy, especially when the wind is blowing.

thanks for the help.

 

[Ductape]

Putting on the snow blower is simple, but the carriage is a little more time consuming and a floor jack is helpful in holding everything in place while you get the pin in place. I couldn't imagine doing this job alone, especially lining up the drive shaft from the blower to the carriage. I am going to say it takes an hour, or so. If I did it every day, I would probably be pretty good at it, but I do it once a year.

Steve, I can only say what works for me. I grab the quick hitch by the nose, and slide the back end under the tractor from the front. Then i hang it on the front crossmember (without tightening it). The rear will be resting on the floor at this point. I stand by the front tire and push down on the nose of the quick hitch with one foot, which raises the back end into position..... then slide the pin through. No need for a floor jack. Then i tighten the T hande and connect the pto shaft and hydraulic lines. Honestly, it takes me longer to plug the lines in than to hang the quick hitch under the tractor.

I pulled the trigger on a 2782a with hydraulic chute rotator for a total of $6000. That includes the dealer coming to pick up my tractor, installing, and returning it. I live about 30 miles from the dealer. I'm ok with this.

I'm trying to decide about the deflector. Smfcpacfp, thanks for your input. I don't have any neighbors to worry about, either, but I think it would be handy, especially when the wind is blowing.

thanks for the help.

This probably the best way to go. Get it installed and try it out, then decide if you even need a chute deflector control. I live in a neighborhood, and i need to be able to put snow where i want....... especially since i do a couple of my neighbors' driveways. If i lived out in the sticks it wouldn't matter if i were dumping the snow far or near. There is a couple hundred dollars to be saved by installing the electric deflector control, but i felt the hydraulic kit was best for me. Post us a few pictures when you have the blower installed...... we love pictures here.

 

[MGB]

I have a B7800 with the front mount blower. I have the hydraulic chute rotator and an electric chute deflector. I didn't think I'd need to operate the deflector but figured I would get it anyway. I am very glad I did! I've had this set up for 5 years with no problems other than a few shear bolts. I'm sure you will enjoy it!

 

[Evil the Weasel]

I have a small wheel dolly that the quick hitch sits on. I slide this under the tractor to get it in position. I hook the front lip and then shim the back with scrap lumber until the holes line up and the pin can be inserted. I don't need any help whatsoever which is nice

 

[gerard]

WOW - $6K for a snowblower?? I know that's the "cadillac" way to go but I bought a new 60 inch for $1300 for a pto mount. Just can't grasp why a front mount is that much more. Oh well, considering I don't have a cab either I guess driving backwards is the least of my worries!

 

[Evil the Weasel]

The hydraulic rotator and quick hitch adds quite a bit to the cost. Convenient and awesome but not cheap.

 

[smfcpacfp]

Steve, I can only say what works for me. I grab the quick hitch by the nose, and slide the back end under the tractor from the front. Then i hang it on the front crossmember (without tightening it). The rear will be resting on the floor at this point. I stand by the front tire and push down on the nose of the quick hitch with one foot, which raises the back end into position..... then slide the pin through. No need for a floor jack.

I do this but it never lines up correctly to put the pin in, so the floor jack helps. You can hold the quick hitch down with one foot and reach back to the middle of the tractor and stick the pin in by yourself?? With the floor jack, I could do the job by myself, but not without it. In any event I have my wife to help, and being retired, we aren't in too big a hurry.