Top n Tilt John Deere 4310

[JRS]

I have a 2002 JD 4310 with power beyond. I have a chance to get a factory top n tilt from a 2004 JD 4310 with the electronic control for the joy stick. The rear bracket on the 04 appears to have all the necessary brackets for the power beyond to keep it on my tractor. I will have to take the t&t from the other tractor. Is this doable amd how much of a job is it going to be.
Thanks, John

 

[dfkrug]

Are you saying that the factory TnT uses a joystick for the 2 spool
valves it uses? If so, it must install in place of the pressure hardline
between the FEL valve block and the 3-pt cyl valve on the left side.

I have not seen that setup on a 4x00 or 4x10. Post a photo if you buy it.

 

[kennyd]

It will be a HUGE job! There are a lot of hard lines to take off the other machine since all the SCV lines run through that electric diverter. I also think you will need the original lines from that tractor (or yours) to restore it back to a usable condition. Look at the pictures below.

How much are you paying for this? This was about a $1200 option JUST for the diverter, then another $800 or so for the TnT kit.

I think the better option is to just buy the TnT kit if the seller is willing and add a separate joystick valve to your machine to control it.

 

[JRS]

The individual who has the top n tilt is selling his tractor and offered me the set up for $500 as long as I take it off and replace it with the standard top link etc. If I keep my power beyond set up and use my existing system to replace his will I have to buy any additional lines from the dealership to put his back to standard?
In looking at it I think the right rear tire and fender will have to come off to do this but what about the left tire and fender? If I attempt this about how long will it take?

Thanks, John

 

[kennyd]

The individual who has the top n tilt is selling his tractor and offered me the set up for $500 as long as I take it off and replace it with the standard top link etc. If I keep my power beyond set up and use my existing system to replace his will I have to buy any additional lines from the dealership to put his back to standard?
In looking at it I think the right rear tire and fender will have to come off to do this but what about the left tire and fender? If I attempt this about how long will it take?

Thanks, John

I would estimate 8 hrs. And yes, as I said before you would nee the origanl line to restore his machine.

I think it's a bad idea...to much to go wrong and when they do it will be EXPENSIVE. Offer to buy just the cylinder's and leave the diverter.

 

[dfkrug]

It will be a HUGE job! There are a lot of hard lines to take off the other machine since all the SCV lines run through that electric diverter. I also think you will need the original lines from that tractor (or yours) to restore it back to a usable condition. Look at the pictures below.

Wow, KENNY, I studied your 1st drawing, and it looks like the diverter
kit diverts all four FEL work ports from the factory triple SCV. This allows
the user to use the FEL joystick to control the TnT, or any other two AUX
circuits. That's just crazy, if I may be so bold! Over-designed, entirely
unnecessary, clumsy to use, and absurdly expensive.

I would use the PB line as mentioned above, with a nice aftermarket 2-spool
valve. For a DIY, a cost of $200 for the valve, and $150 for the fittings
and hoses. The FEL's work port hardline nuts CAN be removed and installed
with the rt tire on, but it is easier if it is off. I have removed and installed
my hardlines several times, trying to get them right. Not easy.

The TnT cyls/hoses/etc. are, of course, on top of that.

 

[kennyd]

Wow, KENNY, I studied your 1st drawing, and it looks like the diverter
kit diverts all four FEL work ports from the factory triple SCV. This allows
the user to use the FEL joystick to control the TnT, or any other two AUX
circuits. That's just crazy, if I may be so bold! Over-designed, entirely
unnecessary, clumsy to use, and absurdly expensive.

I would use the PB line as mentioned above, with a nice aftermarket 2-spool
valve. For a DIY, a cost of $200 for the valve, and $150 for the fittings
and hoses. The FEL's work port hardline nuts CAN be removed and installed
with the rt tire on, but it is easier if it is off. I have removed and installed
my hardlines several times, trying to get them right. Not easy.

The TnT cyls/hoses/etc. are, of course, on top of that.

You got it! I do not believe they sold many of these kits...and no way in he** would I want to remove it from someone else's tractor and be responsible for making sure it was restored to OEM specs.

Some things are just not a good deal...

The ball is in Johns court now

 

[dfkrug]

...and no way in he** would I want to remove it from someone else's tractor and be responsible for making sure it was restored to OEM specs.

I agree. Even if the owner has the original hardlines lying around, have
they been open to dust and dirt? Then you are in the situation anyone
has with dealing with used hyd parts. Anytime I get used hyd stuff, I
have to assume it has been open to the air, so I am leary of connecting it
into my hyd system without cleaning it out (not always easy).

 

[jenkinsph]

If you think that one is complex my 110tlb has tripple outlets that switch from front fel to rear outlets.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

$500 for a "TnT" setup is no deal. It might be less than what JD normally charges, but their cylinders are nothing special. A deal would be $200-$250. More than that and you might as well go by an after market setup that is new. I definitely would not be reworking the guys tractor, to much to go wrong and to much time involved.

Just my opinion.