Top n Tilt John Deere 4310

dfkrug · Dec 6, 2009

jenkinsph said:
If you think that one is complex my 110tlb has tripple outlets that switch from front fel to rear outlets.

So THAT's where they got that idea!

JRS · Dec 6, 2009

OK Based on what I have been reading here I have decided not to go this route. I really just need the top feature for now. As stated I have the power beyond and need advice on the best way to go for purchasing only the top cylinder and necessary connectors, valve etc. Is there a complete unit I can buy that would be a easy install or do I have to piece the unit together? I say on an earlier thread that you can buy a unit from John Deere that you cut the fender and put the control on top of the fender but is this the complete assembly or what other lines do I need? I know I would need to buy the cylinder seperate. Hope I have explained what I want to accomplish. Just need to know how to go about it.
Thanks, John

kennyd · Dec 6, 2009

JRS said:
OK Based on what I have been reading here I have decided not to go this route. I really just need the top feature for now. As stated I have the power beyond and need advice on the best way to go for purchasing only the top cylinder and necessary connectors, valve etc. Is there a complete unit I can buy that would be a easy install or do I have to piece the unit together? I say on an earlier thread that you can buy a unit from John Deere that you cut the fender and put the control on top of the fender but is this the complete assembly or what other lines do I need? I know I would need to buy the cylinder seperate. Hope I have explained what I want to accomplish. Just need to know how to go about it.
Thanks, John

Good call John, I would hate to have to talk you through fixing the other tractor!

That "other" kit you read about is the 3rd SCV kit from JD. It is still available and cost's about $250. It adds the handle to the fender, and the hard lines to the rear of the machine to control a cylinder. Your machine actually already has the valve...just no way to control it.

The cylinders are available from the Surplus Center, and all you would need after that is two short hoses and 2 QD nipples.

There are plenty of threads about this if you search here and in the JD forum.

JB4310 · Dec 7, 2009

On my 4310,

I did the 3rd SCV, here's the thread.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/131256-3rd-selective-control-valve-install.html?

Also HTL.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/131832-help-specifying-hydraulic-top-link.html?

I did it for a rear mount snow plow angle but I also got the HTL and it is a great compliment to the I-match, can pick up and lock in any rear implement without getting up from the seat, no mater what angle they're sitting on the ground.

Also helps tremendously with rear pallet forks and box blade.

Was a little bit of work as it is very tight in there, especially with the PBY and BH frame plates, you will learn what the "compact" in compact utility tractor means. The seat and skirt are the biggest PITN!

Thinking about tilt cylinder, would have to do some type of splitter/diverter. Could of used it on a box blade job I've been working, not sure what else I would use it for.

As you'll see by my threads I couldn't of done these upgrades without the help I received here

PS. Just finished watching your Cardinals pommel the Vikings

mjncad · Dec 7, 2009

John:

I'm glad to hear your took everyone's advice and decided not to screw around with the other guy's tractor. Based on my experience installing JD hydraulic kits, you need to factor in buying tools, mostly crowfoot and flare-nut wrenches to tighten the fittings properly. This can add up quickly.

Maybe links to a couple of my galleries on hydraulic kit installation and top-link (side link in the future) will help you with your project.

Picasa Web Albums - Matt - Hydraulics Up...#

Picasa Web Albums - Matt - Top-n-Tilt#

Matt

JRS · Dec 7, 2009

I want to thank everyone for all the advice I received on this post. I thought it would be a simple exchange but did not factor in knowledge of hydraulics, possible expense, additional tools, etc. I am going with just the top link and thanks again for the info on this. Have a great Christmas.
John

JB4310 · Dec 7, 2009

JRS said:
I really just need the top feature for now. As stated I have the power beyond and need advice on the best way to go for purchasing only the top cylinder and necessary connectors, valve etc. Is there a complete unit I can buy that would be a easy install or do I have to piece the unit together?
Thanks, John

Sounds like your thinking you can use the PBY for your top link?
To the best of my knowledge you can't. Or at least not in the conventional way. when you use PBY for a BH let's say, you loose 3 pt hitch lift function. There may be some kind of diverter but I've not heard of it.

Typically you would need the 3rd SCV kit installed like Kenny recommended, that's why I linked to my install. That would give you the 2 rear hyd remotes and a control handle on the right fender.
It is a bit of work but well worth it, and it's not at all expensive as you're utilizing existing features on your main loader valve. Just have to install 2 hard lines w/couplers and a handle.

dfkrug · Dec 7, 2009

JB4310 said:
Sounds like your thinking you can use the PBY for your top link?
To the best of my knowledge you can't. Or at least not in the conventional way. when you use PBY for a BH let's say, you loose 3 pt hitch lift function. There may be some kind of diverter but I've not heard of it.

Typically you would need the 3rd SCV kit installed like Kenny recommended, that's why I linked to my install. That would give you the 2 rear hyd remotes and a control handle on the right fender.

I agree that if one wants a single remote (as for a hyd toplink), one should
use the 3rd SCV that is already provided, whether or not you use the
JD kit to control it.

You CAN use the PB loop for a valve, but not quite the way you would for
a backhoe. Backhoe valves usually have no PB out, and they often use the
IN connection to the 3-pt valve as a low pressure dump to the reservoir.
This works because you can't operate the 3-pt cylinder with the hoe
mounted. Better yet is to connect the hoe OUT to the reservoir directly,
as done on some tractors. If one put a valve in the PB circuit, it would have
to have a PB out for the 3-pt valve AND a low pressure dump to the tank.
JD provides as many a 3 connections on the back for direct dump to the tank.
The best one is right next to the toplink pivot holes.

You can also use the PB loop for an AUX valve that will work even when
the hoe is hooked up. The valve would be upstream of the hoe, have a
PB OUT for the hoe's IN port, and its own low pressure dump to the tank.