Splicing in new trailer connector

[westbrooklawn]

I just purchased a used 20', 12,000 lb. trailer to move my bobcat and tractor. The wiring is good under the trailer, but the wire along the tongue up to the plug has been cut, taped, etc. I purchased enough 12 ga., 6 conductor trailer wire to replace this section, but have not been able to find a good way to "finish out" the splice. Six butt splices wrapped in electrical tape leaves a bulky and ugly looking connection. Is there any type of terminating connector, block, etc. that is made to do this type of splice?

 

[KB9UDE]

I have used outdoor rated waterproof single gang electrical boxes with a blank cover to make splices on trailers.


John

 

[tlbuser]

One of these 8-POSITION DUAL-ROW STRIP, 20 AMP | AllElectronics.com , inside a waterproof box, makes a very nice reusable setup. Should be able to find one at radio shack, etc...

 

[Diamondpilot]

I have used outdoor rated waterproof single gang electrical boxes with a blank cover to make splices on trailers.


John

We do this on all the boat trailers and utility trailers we re wire. Get the plastic gray box with a blank cover and you are good to go. Just make sure you use a strain re-leaf on the plug side to keep the wires from being pulled on or worse yet completely out.

Chris

 

[RobertN]

I would solder and and heat shrink the connections. Samller heatshrink for the wires is easy to find. May have to look at an electrical place for large heat shrink. Solder will give you a better electrical connection. The heat shrink should keep the connection dry. And, it looks a lot better than tape.

Most butt splices or scotch locks are a mechanical connection; they are prone to corrosion and mechanical issues(how tight the crimp is ect). Trailers have anough wiring and lighting related issues.

And, it would look really like a professionally done setup. That is, if anyone can actually see the splice... You can not tell where I did mine unless you look really close.

 

[Deano]

I would solder and and heat shrink the connections. Samller heatshrink for the wires is easy to find. May have to look at an electrical place for large heat shrink. Solder will give you a better electrical connection. The heat shrink should keep the connection dry. And, it looks a lot better than tape.

Most butt splices or scotch locks are a mechanical connection; they are prone to corrosion and mechanical issues(how tight the crimp is ect). Trailers have anough wiring and lighting related issues.

And, it would look really like a professionally done setup. That is, if anyone can actually see the splice... You can not tell where I did mine unless you look really close.

Great suggestion!! That will look professional. Or, aircraft environmental splices will look about the same.

Deano

 

[Jeff H]

Trailer Parts Superstore - 7-Pole Junction Box #PH1053

 

[QRTRHRS]

Trailer Parts Superstore - 7-Pole Junction Box #PH1053

Can't beat that price! Only other thing I might add is that you can buy weather resistant butt connectors for about a buck apiece. The difference is that the insulation is a fairly thick heat activated shrink wrap. At a buck apiece, I use them sparingly. Best price I found is about 72 bucks per hundred.

 

[donais]

that 7 pole j box is what i have on my gooseneck. it came in handy when i added a battery to the trailer

 

[Jeepnford]

Second on the solder and heat shrink. Some of the shrink tube is coated with glue on the inside. If you can, find some of that.

 

[archerm3]

I would solder and and heat shrink the connections. Samller heatshrink for the wires is easy to find. May have to look at an electrical place for large heat shrink. Solder will give you a better electrical connection. The heat shrink should keep the connection dry. And, it looks a lot better than tape.

Most butt splices or scotch locks are a mechanical connection; they are prone to corrosion and mechanical issues(how tight the crimp is ect). Trailers have anough wiring and lighting related issues.

And, it would look really like a professionally done setup. That is, if anyone can actually see the splice... You can not tell where I did mine unless you look really close.

+1 solder them. Stagger the connections so that you have a 6" +/- section of fat "wire bundle" roughly the same size from the soldered connections, heat shrink each wire individually, then wrap with electrical tape or put inside one of those plastic wire loom covers.

 

[Couple of Achers]

+1 solder them. Stagger the connections so that you have a 6" +/- section of fat "wire bundle" roughly the same size from the soldered connections, heat shrink each wire individually, then wrap with electrical tape or put inside one of those plastic wire loom covers.

One thing I have found to almost hide the splice completely, is to also stagger the splices but instead of twisting the two bare ends together, soldering and folding the soldered ends over, I simply fray the bare ends a little bit, then jamb them straight together. Squeeze them a little bit to flatten any of the wires that may stick out a little bit. Then solder them and cover them with your heat shrink. With a little practice it is almost undetectable that the wire is even spliced.