Hydroback Cable

[bjustice]

Well my hydroback cable finally broke. JJ, (or anyone), did you find a source other than Power Trac? I have reviewed all (I think) of the posts related to the problem, but found no model number or source, other than possibly Tuthill. I have a 2522: any help is welcome. Thanks.

 

[J_J]

I think I need to order one myself, it's been in there about 16 years.

The only one I have found is Tuthill. I am trying to get pricing from them. I am not real sure how to measure that cable. Is it from tip to tip, or black casing only, and does that include the end pieces.

 

[J_J]

Has anyone replaced the Hydroback cable, and how easy or hard was the job. My plan is to connect the new cable to the old cable and shrink wrap the connection , lube it good and pull it through the tunnel. Any better ideas. I had also thought of inserting a thin wall tube through the tunnel, and fishing the cable through that. The cable is going to cost me about $110 plus tax. It is 84 in long from tip to tip.

 

[RegL]

Has anyone replaced the Hydroback cable, and how easy or hard was the job. My plan is to connect the new cable to the old cable and shrink wrap the connection , lube it good and pull it through the tunnel. Any better ideas. I had also thought of inserting a thin wall tube through the tunnel, and fishing the cable through that. The cable is going to cost me about $110 plus tax. It is 84 in long from tip to tip.

Not a hard job. I changed mine last Winter.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/power-trac/136596-broken-hydro-back-cable.html

 

[toy]

Has anyone replaced the Hydroback cable, and how easy or hard was the job. My plan is to connect the new cable to the old cable and shrink wrap the connection , lube it good and pull it through the tunnel. Any better ideas. I had also thought of inserting a thin wall tube through the tunnel, and fishing the cable through that. The cable is going to cost me about $110 plus tax. It is 84 in long from tip to tip.

Putting a little electric tape over the heat shrink might help some also. When you quoted the $110 price on one a while back I asked if a break cable on a hand break bicycle would be a suitable replacement and you said no. Another suggestion what about a manual choke cable for a car would that work and would it be cheaper. Napa had some when I was there the other day and I thought about you fellas that had the hydrabacks if that might be a cheaper solution, just a thought.

 

[J_J]

Another source. Don't know who the distributor is.

http://www.baumhydraulics.com/files/infobuild/morse_bulkhead_and_bulkhead_push_pull_cables.pdf

Teleflex Morse 43BC Control Cables Jet replacement for Morse Red Jacket & Hardin Maxflex: Automotive Performance Products, Boat & Marine Parts & Hardware

 

[RegL]

It's well worth the $110 from PT to get the correct cable. You will be so happy when you get the new one installed. Your tractor will drive like new.

 

[BobRip]

It's well worth the $110 from PT to get the correct cable. You will be so happy when you get the new one installed. Your tractor will drive like new.

My cable is sticking a little. The tractor does not always stop when I let up on the pedal. All of the fittings are well greased. Should I lube the cable? Is it time to get a new one? I have about 800 hours on the machine.

 

[RegL]

My cable is sticking a little. The tractor does not always stop when I let up on the pedal. All of the fittings are well greased. Should I lube the cable? Is it time to get a new one? I have about 800 hours on the machine.

Bob Rip,
It's your dime, but for me, after changing one out and realizing how stiff they get as time go's by, it's a no brain-er. I now plan to replace mine every couple of years as if it's another maintenance item. I use the PT commercially. Also when considering the cost of the cable, that keeping the old stiff one, puts more stress on the rest of the linkage between the treddle and the cable. Not sure what all that would cost to replace.

 

[bjustice]

In light of Regl's comment about replacing the cable--could someone post pictures and info on the hydraulic replacement used on the later machines? If I can see pictures maybe that would indicate a better modification. Thanks very much.
Bill

 

[J_J]

I received my cable today, and it looks just a Morse heavy duty control cable. The only numbers that are on it are M15140 1629 . Both ends are the same. The M may stand for Morse, I will try and verify. I think what I will do is to connect both cables with long treaded nut and slick it up with cable lube and pull it through the tunnel. Just hope it does not jam up in the tunnel and scrape the hyd hoses or rip some wires out.

 

[J_J]

Well, I installed the new control cable for the Hydroback. I hooked everything like I said above, and pushed on one end and pulled on the other end. Easy job, took about 5 min after I connected the two cables together. I ran around town for about 4 hrs, looking for a 1/4 x 28 threaded coupling, and the cable ball joints . I couldn't find a coupling, so I cut one off the old ball joint, and threaded them together, and slipped some tubing over the joint to make the cable about the same size. I will have to call Terry on the instructions to adjust the Hydroback. Does anyone know if the adjustments are the same for all Hydrobacks?

 

[BobRip]

My hydroback cable stuck a little today and I had to hit the reverse petal to stop. Has anyone tried lubing this cable? Did it work. I am tempted to lube it and order a new one as a spare. I hate to have this thing non-operational. About 850 hours on the machine.

 

[Sedgewood]

My hydroback cable stuck a little today and I had to hit the reverse petal to stop. Has anyone tried lubing this cable? Did it work. I am tempted to lube it and order a new one as a spare. I hate to have this thing non-operational. About 850 hours on the machine.

Yup, I lubed the one on my 1850 this spring when I found it nearly frozen after sitting all winter. I used the spray can of Case chain lube I had handy to give it a real good squirt along the rod on the forward end and it feed up fairly well after working it back and forth a few times. By the time I had a few hours on it this summer the lube had worked its way through the jacket and all was fine for the rest of the summer. My guess is I'll have to repeat it again next spring, especially if I forget to give it a squirt this fall

Sedgewood

 

[J_J]

All Hydroback operated PT's owners. Did you know that you can order a Hydroback unit with a spring center pressure of 10 lbs or 20 lbs. Which means, that is the pressure used to keep the pedal and transmission in neutral. Does anyone have an adjusting bolt under the left side of the pedal to limit reverse speed?

Does anyone know how the Hydroback works. Actually, very simple. There is one spring inside of another spring. One spring pushes on the cable housing, and the other spring pushing on the cable, therefore keeping what ever is attached, centered. When you push down on the right side of the pedal to go fwd, one spring is compressed, and when you push on the left side of the pedal, the other spring is compressed. No pressure on the pedal on the foot pedal, the transmission is in neutral, and wheels not turning.

 

[BobRip]

Thanks J_J. I was hoping you would reply.

 

[bjustice]

Thanks JJ, do we know which we use the 10 or 20 pound?

Also anyone able to post pictures of the hydraulic replacement for the hydroback cable--as used on the new machines?
Thanks
Bill

 

[J_J]

I asked that same question, and no one has answered yet.. Would like pictures if available, and technical description if known. I don't even know what to call that unit.

 

[Gravy]

I would use the 20lb unit. It should self-center better, and the difference between 10 and 20lbs is pretty small for a foot-operated control.

 

[toy]

Thanks JJ, do we know which we use the 10 or 20 pound?

Also anyone able to post pictures of the hydraulic replacement for the hydroback cable--as used on the new machines?
Thanks
Bill

I bought my 425 pt in late 203 and they don't have a hydroback cable, they have a valve.