Going to look at a 1995 F-250 w/ 7.3

[Bama67]

Alright guys, I am going monday to look at a 95 (or 96, lady wasn't sure. it is her husbands) F-250, 4x4, XLT, LWB single cab. The truck looks great in pics and is supposed to be in great shape, it has 163,000 miles on it. He is asking 5,900. How does that sounds as a deal? I thought it is pretty good. Now I know that the 7.3 is supposed to be an awesome engine, so can I assume that if this engine has been cared for it will last many more years? Also, is there anything else I should be on the lookout for, for this model of truck? How are the trannies in them? I will be using to haul me back and forth to Louisiana, two weeks at a time to go to the rig. And to haul a 12,000lb load occasionally. thanks for the help!

 

[Diamondpilot]

Check the condition of the anti-freeze. Very important in a 7.3. If i looks old or suspicious run.


Chris

 

[RobertN]

Check the front end. Ford used solid axle front ends, and twin I-beam IFS.

If it is the IFS, look from the front of the truck and see if the tires are straight up and down, or leaning in. All of the leaf spring IFS Fords are noted for the front springs sagging. The leaf spring just is not made for the rotational wear the IFS causes.

My F250 was gas, but I know they used them in some diesels.

I finally put a solid axle in mine. It did not ride as smooth, but it turned significantly tighter. And the springs lasted.

FWIW, I sold my '89 F250 with almost 230k miles. It was still in real nice shape. At 215k miles, I hauled an 11.5' cabover camper all over the Western States and parts of western Canada. About 4000 miles. Ran and drove like a singer sewing machine!

 

[Bama67]

Check the condition of the anti-freeze. Very important in a 7.3. If i looks old or suspicious run.


Chris

What would that indicate exactly? Thanks for the replies.

 

[Diamondpilot]

What would that indicate exactly? Thanks for the replies.

Diesels such as the 7.3 are hard on anti-freeze. They also should have a additive put in them to prevent cavitation. In general anti-freeze can tell you a lot about the general condition of the engine and its owners maintenance. Any sign of rust or oil and its got problems. Just go to Google and type in "7.3 cavitation".

Here is just one article to help you:

Cavitation Article

Chris

 

[Bill_C]

The SCA is important, but fortunately the 7.3 Powerstrokes did not have the cavitation issues of the earlier 6.8/7.3 IDI blocks--the Powerstrokes are parent bore design.

The 95 and 96 250's did have the IFS with the spring sag. This was often rectified by adding a leaf to the springs, not a major deal.

If this is a manual, with the original clutch, I'd recommend ditching the dual-mass flywheel and replacing it with a solid flywheel. At that mileage, the springs in the DMFW usually have just about given up the ghost. (I put in a South Bend ConOFE clutch kit and it shifts easier than stock). This is probably the biggest problem of these motors, in my opinion. If you can do it yourself it's not terribly expensive.

If its an auto (I believe late model 95's had an auto available), maybe have a competent tranny shop see about beefing it up. The first few years the autos were the weak link in the drive train.

 

[RobertN]

Mine sagged even with the lightweight 351 in it. I had the springs re-arched. Helped for a year.

Second time, I re-arched, and added a leaf. Shortly after, just switched to a solid axle. Although it did not ride quite as smooth, it handled better, on and off road, and turned a lot tighter.

The 4x4 shop I used to deal with worked on a lot of them. Just adding a leaf patched the problem. Next best was to add a leaf and re-arch. Best, was just to get new springs.

Pretty simple weekend job. Of course, so was putting the Dana-60 in. I re-geared to 4.11 from 3.55; made a big difference with the gas motor. Would not gear a deisel that low; it would run redline at 65mph.

The 95 and 96 250's did have the IFS with the spring sag. This was often rectified by adding a leaf to the springs, not a major deal.

 

[JoelD]

Mine sagged even with the lightweight 351 in it. I had the springs re-arched. Helped for a year.

Second time, I re-arched, and added a leaf. Shortly after, just switched to a solid axle. Although it did not ride quite as smooth, it handled better, on and off road, and turned a lot tighter.

The 4x4 shop I used to deal with worked on a lot of them. Just adding a leaf patched the problem. Next best was to add a leaf and re-arch. Best, was just to get new springs.

Pretty simple weekend job. Of course, so was putting the Dana-60 in. I re-geared to 4.11 from 3.55; made a big difference with the gas motor. Would not gear a deisel that low; it would run redline at 65mph.

Just what is involved in going to 4:11?

Go to junk yard and get 4:11 rear end and front end? How about transfer case?

Thanks,
Joel

 

[Chuck K.]

Transfer case is not affected by changing to 4.11's, but like you mention you have to change out both front and rear diffs.
My F-350 Powerstroke came with 3.55s. When I went with 35" tires I lost a considerable amount of low end so I had it regeared to 4.11's it was a nice combination.
IMO that body style was the best looking Ford ever produced..

Still miss mine to this day..

 

[om21braz]

"IMO that body style was the best looking Ford ever produced"
I agree, had a 1994 f250 w/ 351 that I should never have sold.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I really like my 04 F-250 Diesel and my 06 F-350 SRW Diesel but there was something about my 99 F-350 SRW Diesel. Just had the right stance. One tough truck until a deer did it in.

Chris

 

[RobertN]

About $1000, depending on your differential, for a 4x4(~$500/axle).

A ring, pinion, and installation kit can run $150-300, installation was running about $250/axle when I had mine done.

Differentials vary; my '89 F250 had the Ford/Stirling rear axle. Nice axle. I was able to swap from 3.55 to 4.11 without changing the differential itself. The solid axle I got for the front already had 4.11's in it.

Others may require a different sized differential to hold a larger ring gear. For instance, the Dana 44 in my old Jeep CJ5, required a different differential for gears lower than 3.73; when swapping to 4.11, 4.27, 4.88, it required a new diff.

If you need a new diff, they can run $150-1000 depending on if it is an open diff, limited slip, posi, locker, air locker...

For a shop to do, it takes a couple hours an axle.

You really have to identify what axle and differential you have. If you keep your diff's, it is not too expensive. If you have to get new diff's, the $$$ pop up.

If, you went to a junk yard for a front or rear end, you could easily pay $1k or more an axle, especially for Dana 60's and Dana 70's.

This does not involve the transfer case at all.

Just what is involved in going to 4:11?

Go to junk yard and get 4:11 rear end and front end? How about transfer case?

Thanks,
Joel

 

[Bill_C]

The 95's and 96 F250's had the Sterling 10.25 inch rear end, and the Dana 50 front end, which is a glorified Dana 44.

 

[RobertN]

Rear can got to 4.11 with just a ring and pinion. That Dana 50 may need a larger diff(for the larger ring gear). Have to call a shop to confirm that. If it is a "glorified Dana 44", then it probably will need a new diff....

The 95's and 96 F250's had the Sterling 10.25 inch rear end, and the Dana 50 front end, which is a glorified Dana 44.

 

[Bama67]

Well, I went and looked at the truck yesterday. It was in decent shape, but I don't think I could ride it everyday. It had the solid front axle and leaf springs, and rode like a wagon. It had good power, auto tranny shifted nice, and the 4x4 worked well, also seemed to be geared very low. But it had what looked like a rear seal leaking though. It was also so loud, that I had to turn the stereo all the way up to hear it. I just don't think I would like that, as much as i would be driving it. I guess my expectations were to high. The search continues.

 

[QueBota]

If you change your mind make sure to pick up a ICM (injector control module) or IDM (injector drive module) and stick it in the glove box. I think that is standard procedure for the early to middle Powestrokes.Lots of PS owners carry one and the tools necessary to swap one out. Doesn't' take long but will leave you sitting on the side of the road.

Dave

 

[JoelD]

My first thought would be to check with junk yard to see if I could get front and rear complete axles, or even consider a doaner vehicle.

I'm thinking that 3:73's maybe a good compromise seeing how I have a 3 speed auto.

The 3:55's are just a little to high I think.

Joel

 

[Bill_C]

Even with my mods, my truck's not very loud in the cab. That one may have had a leaking exhaust up-pipe donut (a common occurrence evidently) or perhaps a loose exhaust manifold (possible broken exhaust manifold bolt). Or the truck had an aftermarket downpipe installed which wound up hitting the cab (you're supposed to massage the firewall a tad to give enough clearance).

The XL version, with a vinyl floormat, supposedly is just a tad louder than the XLT which has carpet on the floor.

 

[tallyho8]

I have a 1995 F250 XLT LWB Supercab with a 7.3 with twin I beam and coil springs. I did not even know that any F250s came with leaf springs in front.

Mine is at 99,950 miles and I only use it to tow my trailers or for big loads so when it works, it works hard. Besides oil and filter changes and tires and batteries, I have changed my alternator, water pump, vacuum pump, fan belt and front brake discs. Last week I bought brake shoes for the back, took off the wheels to inspect and they were like new so now I have a new set of shoes to install in about 15 more years.

It looks like new, drives like new, and I would not sell it for $10,000. I get 24 mpg on the highway with no trailer but a 4000 pound load in the bed.

The only thing I worry about is that someone will run into it and total it and the insurance company will try to give me $2000.

I am thinking of changing my transmission fluid at 100,000 miles but am afraid that someone will mess up my perfectly good transmission doing it.

 

[Duffster]

Thou shall not covet thy neighbors truck.

Thou shall not covet thy neighbors truck.

Thou shall not covet thy neighbors truck.

Thou shall not covet thy neighbors truck.

Thou shall not covet thy neighbors truck.

Thou shall not covet thy neighbors truck.

I give up.

Awesome truck!!!!!!!!!!