Going to look at a 1995 F-250 w/ 7.3

Bama67 · Oct 10, 2009

Alright guys, I am going monday to look at a 95 (or 96, lady wasn't sure. it is her husbands) F-250, 4x4, XLT, LWB single cab. The truck looks great in pics and is supposed to be in great shape, it has 163,000 miles on it. He is asking 5,900. How does that sounds as a deal? I thought it is pretty good. Now I know that the 7.3 is supposed to be an awesome engine, so can I assume that if this engine has been cared for it will last many more years? Also, is there anything else I should be on the lookout for, for this model of truck? How are the trannies in them? I will be using to haul me back and forth to Louisiana, two weeks at a time to go to the rig. And to haul a 12,000lb load occasionally. thanks for the help!

Diamondpilot · Oct 10, 2009

Check the condition of the anti-freeze. Very important in a 7.3. If i looks old or suspicious run.

Chris

RobertN · Oct 10, 2009

Check the front end. Ford used solid axle front ends, and twin I-beam IFS.

If it is the IFS, look from the front of the truck and see if the tires are straight up and down, or leaning in. All of the leaf spring IFS Fords are noted for the front springs sagging. The leaf spring just is not made for the rotational wear the IFS causes.

My F250 was gas, but I know they used them in some diesels.

I finally put a solid axle in mine. It did not ride as smooth, but it turned significantly tighter. And the springs lasted.

FWIW, I sold my '89 F250 with almost 230k miles. It was still in real nice shape. At 215k miles, I hauled an 11.5' cabover camper all over the Western States and parts of western Canada. About 4000 miles. Ran and drove like a singer sewing machine!

Bama67 · Oct 10, 2009

Diamondpilot said:
Check the condition of the anti-freeze. Very important in a 7.3. If i looks old or suspicious run.

Chris

What would that indicate exactly? Thanks for the replies.

Diamondpilot · Oct 10, 2009

Bama67 said:
What would that indicate exactly? Thanks for the replies.

Diesels such as the 7.3 are hard on anti-freeze. They also should have a additive put in them to prevent cavitation. In general anti-freeze can tell you a lot about the general condition of the engine and its owners maintenance. Any sign of rust or oil and its got problems. Just go to Google and type in "7.3 cavitation".

Here is just one article to help you:

Cavitation Article

Chris

Bill_C · Oct 11, 2009

The SCA is important, but fortunately the 7.3 Powerstrokes did not have the cavitation issues of the earlier 6.8/7.3 IDI blocks--the Powerstrokes are parent bore design.

The 95 and 96 250's did have the IFS with the spring sag. This was often rectified by adding a leaf to the springs, not a major deal.

If this is a manual, with the original clutch, I'd recommend ditching the dual-mass flywheel and replacing it with a solid flywheel. At that mileage, the springs in the DMFW usually have just about given up the ghost. (I put in a South Bend ConOFE clutch kit and it shifts easier than stock). This is probably the biggest problem of these motors, in my opinion. If you can do it yourself it's not terribly expensive.

If its an auto (I believe late model 95's had an auto available), maybe have a competent tranny shop see about beefing it up. The first few years the autos were the weak link in the drive train.

RobertN · Oct 11, 2009

Mine sagged even with the lightweight 351 in it. I had the springs re-arched. Helped for a year.

Second time, I re-arched, and added a leaf. Shortly after, just switched to a solid axle. Although it did not ride quite as smooth, it handled better, on and off road, and turned a lot tighter.

The 4x4 shop I used to deal with worked on a lot of them. Just adding a leaf patched the problem. Next best was to add a leaf and re-arch. Best, was just to get new springs.

Pretty simple weekend job. Of course, so was putting the Dana-60 in. I re-geared to 4.11 from 3.55; made a big difference with the gas motor. Would not gear a deisel that low; it would run redline at 65mph.

Bill_C said:
The 95 and 96 250's did have the IFS with the spring sag. This was often rectified by adding a leaf to the springs, not a major deal.

JoelD · Oct 11, 2009

RobertN said:
Mine sagged even with the lightweight 351 in it. I had the springs re-arched. Helped for a year.

Second time, I re-arched, and added a leaf. Shortly after, just switched to a solid axle. Although it did not ride quite as smooth, it handled better, on and off road, and turned a lot tighter.

The 4x4 shop I used to deal with worked on a lot of them. Just adding a leaf patched the problem. Next best was to add a leaf and re-arch. Best, was just to get new springs.

Pretty simple weekend job. Of course, so was putting the Dana-60 in. I re-geared to 4.11 from 3.55; made a big difference with the gas motor. Would not gear a deisel that low; it would run redline at 65mph.

Just what is involved in going to 4:11?

Go to junk yard and get 4:11 rear end and front end? How about transfer case?

Thanks,
Joel

Chuck K. · Oct 11, 2009

Transfer case is not affected by changing to 4.11's, but like you mention you have to change out both front and rear diffs.
My F-350 Powerstroke came with 3.55s. When I went with 35" tires I lost a considerable amount of low end so I had it regeared to 4.11's it was a nice combination.
IMO that body style was the best looking Ford ever produced..

Still miss mine to this day..