4-in-1 Uses for a 4-in-1 bucket?

[Builder]

That's just part of the process. Hopefully, if your zerks have guards aroung them they won't break off.

When I'm digging with my LB115, the dipper stick is always rubbing against the side of the trench packing dirt around the zerks. The bucket is the same way when digging or loading the zerk gaurds get packed with dirt.

 

[Dargo]

Geez, when I was greasing my bucket I fortunately saw that the zerks are protected as are the hydraulic cylinders and extended rods. Talk about over kill; the coverings are made from 1/4" steel! The cutting edge is 1" hardened steel and the bucket sidewalls are 1/2" steel. No wonder it weighs so much. Even though I will use this bucket on my track loader and utility size tractor, I wouldn't suggest this heavy of a bucket for most tractors. However, I think it is a great bucket for a large track loader or full sized backhoe.

 

[IslandTractor]

That's just part of the process. Hopefully, if your zerks have guards aroung them they won't break off.

The zerks are well protected with steel rings just as Dargo points out. The issue is that those protective rings become filled with compacted soil resembling concrete so you need to dig them out with a screwdriver then clean them before greasing (all with the bucket raised to eye level and curled. Not the easiest thing to do when doing routine greasing of the tractor. What I really don't understand though is that the zerks (at least on my WRLong bucket) could just as easily have been placed in a location that would have been relatively free of dirt contamination and would be accessible from the backside with the bucket on the ground. Maybe there is a reason for having zerks in that location but it didn't seem necessary to me.

 

[Builder]

The zerks are well protected with steel rings just as Dargo points out. The issue is that those protective rings become filled with compacted soil resembling concrete so you need to dig them out with a screwdriver then clean them before greasing (all with the bucket raised to eye level and curled. Not the easiest thing to do when doing routine greasing of the tractor. What I really don't understand though is that the zerks (at least on my WRLong bucket) could just as easily have been placed in a location that would have been relatively free of dirt contamination and would be accessible from the backside with the bucket on the ground. Maybe there is a reason for having zerks in that location but it didn't seem necessary to me.

They'd get dirt in them if they were there, too when you backdrag with your bucket. Also, it would probably increase production costs.

That's normal to have dirt packed around them, you just don't want them to get ripped-off.

I just did a complete greasing of my machines yesterday. My LB-115 has over 50 fittings. What you do is keep a small screwdriver and a roll of paper towels with you and a trash can. Pick the packed dirt & grease out and wipe the screwdriver clean throwing your paper towels in the trash can. Make sure you wipe the zerk off completely before you grease, or you'll end up pumping dirt particles in your zerks then into your bearings or kingpins.

They do make zerk fitting caps if you're really **** about them, but they usually get ripped off in short order if they're in contact with dirt.

 

[IslandTractor]

They'd get dirt in them if they were there, too when you backdrag with your bucket. Also, it would probably increase production costs.

I'm gonna have to disagree. If the protected zerks were on the backside rather than the bottom then dirt compaction would be much less of an issue for starters and they would be easier to clean and grease.

When I backdrag I typically have the bucket tilted down a bit and mostly keep the dirt under the bucket not climbing up the back of the bucket as I reverse. Some dirt gets in yes but not under pressure like it would with the zerks on the bottom.

To clean and grease the zerks in the current location, you really need to start the tractor and move the FEL up and down. THat is an extra step that wastes time and might encourage "forgetting" to grease the hidden zerks.

I do exactly as you do with regard to cleaning and greasing but it does take extra time and requires that I drop the grease gun while I spend several minutes cleaning out the zerk spaces.

My point is that it should not be any more difficult to place the protected zerk 90 degrees from where it is on the fitting so it can be reached from the back of the bucket while the bucket is in normal rest position on the ground. No difference in production cost.

I just don't understand why the zerk on the bottom seems to be the industry standard.

Photos show position of bucket to get at the bottom zerks (note that with the bucket this high you cannot reach some of the FEL zerks so need to change position of the bucket while greasing, another waste of time.) Other photos show bottom zerk after cleaning and after greasing. The photos of the zerks are taken from behind the bucket and you can see that the face just 90 degrees back from the bottom zerk is open and could easily be used for a zerk (with protective ring). Last photo is a typical scraping motion with the dozer blade function. Note that the current zerk position essentially jams dirt into the zerk location while the area 90 degrees back is relatively well protected and open. Yes, some dirt would get in but not nearly as much compacted material and it would be easier to get at to clean and grease.

 

[Builder]

I guess you have to be more careful when you buy a bucket to buy one that has the zerks placed where you want them.

I just don't understand why the zerk on the bottom seems to be the industry standard.

Maybe it is on small time equipment. On my LB115, they're on the sides. I just looked on my 4/1 Kubota bucket on my 48HP CUT and they're on the sides, too. I can grease my 4/1 while it's resting on the ground. Maybe it's the brand you bought????? Or maybe it's a grapple bucket thing???

 

[MJPetersen]

That certainly seems to me to be poor engineering!! That looks like it is the perfect place for a recessed, end-of-pin fitting. That looks like a pain to get to and grease--consequently it probably gets skipped a lot!

Mike

 

[IslandTractor]

I think it is poor engineering and I'm glad to hear it is not an industry standard. Maybe WRLong has already fixed the issue. I got my 4n1 via eBay for $500 so I cannot compain especially as it came with a complete diverter gave kit and was almost new.

 

[Dargo]

Although I'm hobbled from knee surgery, I was in my barn a bit today. My zerks are on the side through a hole in the 1/4" steel protective covering.

On another note, do they make adapters to use the regular tractor outlets to the flat skid steer type of outlets? I don't want to change the setup on the new bucket or on the tractor but, even though the capacity will be a bit lower, I'd like to be able to use my new 4-in-1 bucket on my tractor. Hopefully this is a common thing and there are adapters available or short hoses that make the change in types.

 

[Builder]

Although I'm hobbled from knee surgery, I was in my barn a bit today. My zerks are on the side through a hole in the 1/4" steel protective covering.

On another note, do they make adapters to use the regular tractor outlets to the flat skid steer type of outlets? I don't want to change the setup on the new bucket or on the tractor but, even though the capacity will be a bit lower, I'd like to be able to use my new 4-in-1 bucket on my tractor. Hopefully this is a common thing and there are adapters available or short hoses that make the change in types.

Not that I'm aware of. I went through this with the purchase of my 4/1 bucket and harley rake. I had to change to Parker quick couplers on the entire machine. It was a lot of hassle. My tractor came with smallish pioneer couplers like those found on a snowplow. The implements came with either very large Parker fittings or flat face so the tractor needed 6 new fittings (2 sets of rear remotes & 1 set of front 3 rd valve fittings.) The 4/1 had to have the flat face replaced.

This whole coupler business is a PITA and seems like it costs me another $50 on every implement I buy. I'd like to see if I can specify the couplers on my tilt cylinder and my grapple when I get them this week.