Chainsaw selection... ideas?

[RadarTech]

hey folks,
I am looking for some advice on a new/used chainsaw...

having been a member here for some time.. and getting some great help.

where else would I go for some tractor/field questions?

ok so here we go...
We recently got nailed with more than 10 inches of rain over 2 days...
I checked the rain gauge and it said 10 inches on the second day, but it also said 8 inches the night before a heavy 3 hour downpour.

The tree that fell, and I really need to take a picture, was about 20-22 inches diameter. It fell across a neighbors drive that I share part of my driveway with. Another neighbor cut it in half to clear the drive while I was out of town. The tree pulled up roots fell off the hill and landed across the driveway. It was cut in the middle and was about 15 feet long from root base to where it was cut.

It was all my little saw could do to cut part of the roots off to get it to roll over. After rolling it over, the little 3400 managed to lift the top up high enough to place some small logs under it to help it move. Then I was able to drag it about 200 feet to a good resting place out of the way.



So that has gotten me to thinking my chainsaw leaves a little to be desired...

I have a poulan pro Lowe's special 18 inch chainsaw..
It is ok for cutting small stuff and handling the softwood. But for a recent locust or whatever that tough !@##R%@ was just ate it for breakfast...

I want something tough enough to handle a locust tree.. (we have at least 4 or 5 that are on some precarious hills....) but cheap enough to work good...

Now here is what I think I need... Please make reccomendations:

1. 18 or 20 in saw-- (maybe an 18 inch saw that can have a 20 inch bar too..)

2. a good saw, not some cheap half plastic saw that I can depend on in the dead of winter or in the middle of a rain storm to clear the drive.

3. something that I can get parts for. Someone told me to get the powerhouse from northerntool.. but really?

4. A case-- I really want something I can protect when it goes in the truck..


what do you think?

thanks,
J

 

[dave1949]

Everybody has a favorite brand of saw I suspect.

I have a Stihl 19T with a 14" bar and a Husqvarna Rancher455 with 20" bar for heavy work.

The Stihl is intended for limbing and tree maint., but I love the light weight and top handle for most of the cutting I do. It uses a pico chain which has a very thin kerf - not good for cutting more than about 5-6" dia.

The Husqvarna is powerful and one great feature is the compression release button. Works better than the smart-start types I have tried. It is a heavy saw to use for long periods.

I don't know if this is true or not, but I was told you don't get the same Husqvarna (model for model) at Home Depot as you do at a regular dealer. Maybe someone here knows for sure. I got mine from HD and haven't had a problem.

Keep your chain sharp, wear leg chaps, hard hat and ear plugs. When you get tired, put the saw down for the day.

Dave.

 

[RadarTech]

thanks Dave!


I read somewhere, that you can put a 20in bar on an 18in saw.. is that true?

thanks,
Jim

 

[dave1949]

thanks Dave!


I read somewhere, that you can put a 20in bar on an 18in saw.. is that true?

thanks,
Jim

Well, usually you can. The limiting factor is the power of the motor to run the longer chain without bogging down. I wouldn't advise tweaking your fuel mixture to the max to do it either. I did in a saw that way.

I would stick with the shortest bar you can, an 18" bar would usually take down about a 30-32 inch tree making your cuts from both sides.

I have never cut locust, so no help there. I have some big black locust trees but they are too big and too close to the road for me to want to mess with. They do look like gnarly tough trees though.

Dave.

 

[Egon]

Choose the saw on HP rating, not bar length. If you have the HP you can use short to longer bars as required for your situation. I have a 13 inch and a 20 inch bar for one of my saws. The other has a 18 inch and a 24 inch bar.

You probably have a choice of about four major brands of saws. Of these the only one thats any good is the Brand I own!

Also find out about chains and how to sharpen them.
Remember to buy the safety gear first!
Check on Youtube for instructional videos. Should be a number of them.

The Husky saws with the metal tag on them are considered the good ones. No tag and its a homeowners quality.

 

[Frosty2]

I'm happy w/my Stihl 290 farm Boss w/a 20" bar. Cuts through anything and starts every time. Just saw an ad in my area for this setup w/a 18" bar for $359 and that included a free case and extra chain. That's a pretty sweet deal. Whatever you choose I suggest you stay away from the bigbox junk out there. Service is worth the extra cost.

 

[smfcpacfp]

My trusty old Stihl 029 has probably cut 200 cords of wood and cut down many trees has a 16" guide bar. I bought a new Stihl 390 with a 20" guide bar for the bigger stuff. I would likely be just as happy with a Husqvarna or a Jonsered, but I am used to Stihl products.

 

[Big Bri]

I've got the ECHO CS-520, have had it for about 6 years, i use it only when we have a hurricane, but it starts up very easy even when sitting for a year, never takes more than two or three pulls. Mine has a 20" bar, and chains can be found at any lawn shop, or hardware store.
Good luck

i looked on echo web site and i think the 520 is now the 530 but not for sure.

 

[turnkey4099]

I run 3 stihls (210/310/361) and a Husky 51 (getting long in the tooth, doesn't go to the field anymore with me).

MS310 is a rugged, reliable saw that will handle a 24" bar but is happier with an 18 or 20. (mine stays with a 20). It is not a professional grade and does have a plastic case. Going price is somewhere in the $400 plus area.

MS361 is a professional grade, metal case and is one of the most admired saws in the industry for that size. Price currently is just over $600.

There is a big price jump from consumer grade to professional grade in any product line. If you insist on metal case, you will pay for it buying a new saw.

I do 10 plus cords year. The 310 does most of the work and has never balked.

In buyin a saw, stick with the Stihl, Husky, Josered, Echo brand and buy from a dealer (if buying new). Nothing worse than buying a highly recommended saw and then finding the local dealer sucks. To buy used (yes I have done that, the Husky 51 came that way), there are lots of choices, pawn shops, craiglist, Ebay - you pays your money and takes your chances.

Harry K

 

[WayneB]

I happen to like Husky saws and Stihls, actually switched from Stihl to Husky due to the fact the dealer went out of business that I was working with.

I think the best thing you can do is buy it from a dealer that provides parts and service. The box stores will sell you a saw, but know nothing about them and if something goes wrong you are on your own to get it fixed.

I bought a Husky 455 last year from my dealer and the same saw was more expensive at the box store, plus the dealer had it full of gas and oil and had run the saw to make sure it was going to be okay.

 

[chh]

I bought a 20" Stihl about 3 years ago, it is the first saw I have owned in years that I am satisfied with.

 

[Q-Saw]

In regards to a case, I use the "Powerbox" made by Husqvarna. It's basically a square box for the saw's powerhead, and has with a a plastic scabbard for your bar (which sticks out of the box). It fits lots of different saws, and has room inside for some extras. I keep a bottle each of of 2-cycle oil, bar oil, and gas stabilizer in it. I also throw in a scrench (screwdriver/wrench), a chip brush, and a dry rag. It makes a great seat when it's break time in the woods, and you can stack stuff on it easily in the truck (due to its flat top). They're not cheap, but I think they're worth it.

As per saws, I've had a Stihl 026-Pro for about 12 years and have been very pleased with it. It's dependable, and isn't so heavy that your arms feel like noodles after a day of cutting. My 650 spends a lot of time sitting in the truck.

Most people that I see struggling with their chainsaw are running a chain that is way too dull. Don't spend hundreds of dollars on a saw and then skimp on the chains (I buy Stihl chains). I buy extra chains so I always have a sharp one on the saw and at least one in the saw box. I also keep my chains in "Tupperware" style sealable containers. They don't get rusty from sitting, and they don't snag anything in the sawbox. I don't file my chains - I send them out to be ground when they need sharpening. Cutting roots can dull a chain very fast.

- Marty

 

[dave1949]

Lot of good info you are getting.

I am not sure how much experience you have with saws, so I'll add some more, if you already know these things, sorry.

Never run your chain in the dirt - as Q-Saw said cutting roots will dull a chain. It's because the roots are usually dusty, it's not the wood, it's the dust.

Always drain the fuel tank when the saw won't be used for a few weeks. Run it til empty, open the fuel cap and shake out the drops. Never use gas older than about 2 months. Use manufacturer brand of 2 cycle oil in the gas.

Do yourself a favor and learn to at least touch up your chain freehand with a saw file. It won't be as sharp (probably) as a chain sharpened in the shop but will save you money and time in the long run. Make sure you use a file size matched to your chain. The file should match the diameter of the cutting edge on the saw tooth.

When your chain is sharp and you still see lots of sawdust in your chips, it's time to lower your chain rakers. A dremel tool with a grinding stone or a small flat file is the easiest way to do this yourself. Take just the tiniest bit off. Buy a gauge that measures your raker height so you no what you are aiming at. Take off too much and your chain will try to take big chips out - not good.

Don't overbuy if all you plan or need to do is cut a handfull of trees each year. That's too much money tied up doing nothing but collecting dust.

Dave.

 

[Will_C]

Lots of good advice so far. If you want to run a 20" bar effectively, I think you will want a 60cc+ saw. Stihl, Husky, J-red, Echo, I have used them all through the years and have found them all to be good products (currently own Husky and Stihl, because a friend sells them in a shop 3 miles from my house.)

How much do you want to spend? $450-$500 will get you a "semi-pro' saw from one these makers. I have a Husky 66 (old saw, not sure what it compare to in the new line-up) that would fit this catergory; a Stihl 390 would be similar. $600-$700 woild get a pro saw in this size, for ezample a Stihl 361 or Husky 357.

Good luck.
Will

 

[AKwelder]

I like stihl but do not like our dealer and service here. So I went to the chainsaw shop i like and want to do business with and got a husky, and i love it.

i don't want to work on my saw, i want it running when i need it. The shop that i bought it from was the reason i bought the saw. They remember me, answer my questions and fix my equipment. When i was looking to buy they spent time with me, answered my questions, showed me brands and features, and made me happy with my decision. The box store can't and won't do that, somethings are better from the local mom and pop shop.

As a side note, I am six foot two, a 20 inch bar is A LOT less bending over for me when limbing

good luck

 

[charlz]

Stihl and Husky are pretty much industry standard for logging etc. out West. Since this sounds like a 'want' more than a 'need' I would watch Craigslist. Something like a good condition Stihl Farmboss 029 or larger might come up. 20" or larger bar is what it sounds like you need. You are gonna pay but not as much as a brand new saw and then it just sits most of the year anyway.

As for chains, don't ever run them into dirt or dirty wood if you can help it. If you see sparks your chain is toast. Personally I think people make a lot of hoopla over sharpening chains.... if you have one good eye and a semi-steady hand you can sharpen a chain with the right size hand file Keep one with you and touch the chain up now and again. Will save you time and fuel. Every so many sharpenings take a flat file to the rakers and lower them a bit. You'll know it if you get them too low

 

[mbohuntr]

Can't go wrong with a Stihl. I stopped burning wood a while back, but own a snotty little .025 that still outworks me. I bought a mccollough years back for about 2/3 the price of a good saw. After I was trying to clean up after a big storm, that gutless POC quit and wouldn't start. I bounced it off a tree a couple of times till I felt better, then bought my first Stihl and never went back. Buy junk, get junk.

 

[duck spy]

husqvarna,24 and 36 inch bars,and a 14'' echo for the small stuff.
Looked at the stihls, my problem was the weight of the saw the 20'' still was 3-5 lbs more then the husqvzrna with less HP(CC'S)
My biggest problem is once you get used to the big saw and how fast(with the right cut in the chain) it will cut it's hard to start the little saw.
Go to a saw shop try all they have,and check to see what they are fixing in back,that is how I made my choice.

good luck

 

[coobie]

I went with echo this time around verses my stihl saws(011-026-028) that were always VERY HARD to start.My echo saw starts 2nd pull every time.coobie

 

[RobertN]

I agree. In my experience, it is easy to keep a sharp chain sharp. Once they are realy dull, then they are a chore by hand. I just don't let mine dull. A little touchup when I take a break or end for the day keeps them nice.

Personally I think people make a lot of hoopla over sharpening chains.... if you have one good eye and a semi-steady hand you can sharpen a chain with the right size hand file Keep one with you and touch the chain up now and again. Will save you time and fuel. Every so many sharpenings take a flat file to the rakers and lower them a bit. You'll know it if you get them too low