chh
Veteran Member
I bought a 20" Stihl about 3 years ago, it is the first saw I have owned in years that I am satisfied with.
Chainsaw selection... ideas?
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Q-Saw
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In regards to a case, I use the "Powerbox" made by Husqvarna. It's basically a square box for the saw's powerhead, and has with a a plastic scabbard for your bar (which sticks out of the box). It fits lots of different saws, and has room inside for some extras. I keep a bottle each of of 2-cycle oil, bar oil, and gas stabilizer in it. I also throw in a scrench (screwdriver/wrench), a chip brush, and a dry rag. It makes a great seat when it's break time in the woods, and you can stack stuff on it easily in the truck (due to its flat top). They're not cheap, but I think they're worth it.
As per saws, I've had a Stihl 026-Pro for about 12 years and have been very pleased with it. It's dependable, and isn't so heavy that your arms feel like noodles after a day of cutting. My 650 spends a lot of time sitting in the truck.
Most people that I see struggling with their chainsaw are running a chain that is way too dull. Don't spend hundreds of dollars on a saw and then skimp on the chains (I buy Stihl chains). I buy extra chains so I always have a sharp one on the saw and at least one in the saw box. I also keep my chains in "Tupperware" style sealable containers. They don't get rusty from sitting, and they don't snag anything in the sawbox. I don't file my chains - I send them out to be ground when they need sharpening. Cutting roots can dull a chain very fast.
- Marty
As per saws, I've had a Stihl 026-Pro for about 12 years and have been very pleased with it. It's dependable, and isn't so heavy that your arms feel like noodles after a day of cutting. My 650 spends a lot of time sitting in the truck.
Most people that I see struggling with their chainsaw are running a chain that is way too dull. Don't spend hundreds of dollars on a saw and then skimp on the chains (I buy Stihl chains). I buy extra chains so I always have a sharp one on the saw and at least one in the saw box. I also keep my chains in "Tupperware" style sealable containers. They don't get rusty from sitting, and they don't snag anything in the sawbox. I don't file my chains - I send them out to be ground when they need sharpening. Cutting roots can dull a chain very fast.
- Marty
dave1949
Super Star Member
Lot of good info you are getting.
I am not sure how much experience you have with saws, so I'll add some more, if you already know these things, sorry.
Never run your chain in the dirt - as Q-Saw said cutting roots will dull a chain. It's because the roots are usually dusty, it's not the wood, it's the dust.
Always drain the fuel tank when the saw won't be used for a few weeks. Run it til empty, open the fuel cap and shake out the drops. Never use gas older than about 2 months. Use manufacturer brand of 2 cycle oil in the gas.
Do yourself a favor and learn to at least touch up your chain freehand with a saw file. It won't be as sharp (probably) as a chain sharpened in the shop but will save you money and time in the long run. Make sure you use a file size matched to your chain. The file should match the diameter of the cutting edge on the saw tooth.
When your chain is sharp and you still see lots of sawdust in your chips, it's time to lower your chain rakers. A dremel tool with a grinding stone or a small flat file is the easiest way to do this yourself. Take just the tiniest bit off. Buy a gauge that measures your raker height so you no what you are aiming at. Take off too much and your chain will try to take big chips out - not good.
Don't overbuy if all you plan or need to do is cut a handfull of trees each year. That's too much money tied up doing nothing but collecting dust.
Dave.
I am not sure how much experience you have with saws, so I'll add some more, if you already know these things, sorry.
Never run your chain in the dirt - as Q-Saw said cutting roots will dull a chain. It's because the roots are usually dusty, it's not the wood, it's the dust.
Always drain the fuel tank when the saw won't be used for a few weeks. Run it til empty, open the fuel cap and shake out the drops. Never use gas older than about 2 months. Use manufacturer brand of 2 cycle oil in the gas.
Do yourself a favor and learn to at least touch up your chain freehand with a saw file. It won't be as sharp (probably) as a chain sharpened in the shop but will save you money and time in the long run. Make sure you use a file size matched to your chain. The file should match the diameter of the cutting edge on the saw tooth.
When your chain is sharp and you still see lots of sawdust in your chips, it's time to lower your chain rakers. A dremel tool with a grinding stone or a small flat file is the easiest way to do this yourself. Take just the tiniest bit off. Buy a gauge that measures your raker height so you no what you are aiming at. Take off too much and your chain will try to take big chips out - not good.
Don't overbuy if all you plan or need to do is cut a handfull of trees each year. That's too much money tied up doing nothing but collecting dust.
Dave.
Will_C
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Lots of good advice so far. If you want to run a 20" bar effectively, I think you will want a 60cc+ saw. Stihl, Husky, J-red, Echo, I have used them all through the years and have found them all to be good products (currently own Husky and Stihl, because a friend sells them in a shop 3 miles from my house.)
How much do you want to spend? $450-$500 will get you a "semi-pro' saw from one these makers. I have a Husky 66 (old saw, not sure what it compare to in the new line-up) that would fit this catergory; a Stihl 390 would be similar. $600-$700 woild get a pro saw in this size, for ezample a Stihl 361 or Husky 357.
Good luck.
Will
How much do you want to spend? $450-$500 will get you a "semi-pro' saw from one these makers. I have a Husky 66 (old saw, not sure what it compare to in the new line-up) that would fit this catergory; a Stihl 390 would be similar. $600-$700 woild get a pro saw in this size, for ezample a Stihl 361 or Husky 357.
Good luck.
Will
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AKwelder
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I like stihl but do not like our dealer and service here. So I went to the chainsaw shop i like and want to do business with and got a husky, and i love it.
i don't want to work on my saw, i want it running when i need it. The shop that i bought it from was the reason i bought the saw. They remember me, answer my questions and fix my equipment. When i was looking to buy they spent time with me, answered my questions, showed me brands and features, and made me happy with my decision. The box store can't and won't do that, somethings are better from the local mom and pop shop.
As a side note, I am six foot two, a 20 inch bar is A LOT less bending over for me when limbing
good luck
i don't want to work on my saw, i want it running when i need it. The shop that i bought it from was the reason i bought the saw. They remember me, answer my questions and fix my equipment. When i was looking to buy they spent time with me, answered my questions, showed me brands and features, and made me happy with my decision. The box store can't and won't do that, somethings are better from the local mom and pop shop.
As a side note, I am six foot two, a 20 inch bar is A LOT less bending over for me when limbing
good luck
charlz
Elite Member
Stihl and Husky are pretty much industry standard for logging etc. out West. Since this sounds like a 'want' more than a 'need' I would watch Craigslist. Something like a good condition Stihl Farmboss 029 or larger might come up. 20" or larger bar is what it sounds like you need. You are gonna pay but not as much as a brand new saw and then it just sits most of the year anyway.
As for chains, don't ever run them into dirt or dirty wood if you can help it. If you see sparks your chain is toast. Personally I think people make a lot of hoopla over sharpening chains.... if you have one good eye and a semi-steady hand you can sharpen a chain with the right size hand file
Keep one with you and touch the chain up now and again. Will save you time and fuel. Every so many sharpenings take a flat file to the rakers and lower them a bit. You'll know it if you get them too low
As for chains, don't ever run them into dirt or dirty wood if you can help it. If you see sparks your chain is toast. Personally I think people make a lot of hoopla over sharpening chains.... if you have one good eye and a semi-steady hand you can sharpen a chain with the right size hand file
Keep one with you and touch the chain up now and again. Will save you time and fuel. Every so many sharpenings take a flat file to the rakers and lower them a bit. You'll know it if you get them too low mbohuntr
Platinum Member
Can't go wrong with a Stihl. I stopped burning wood a while back, but own a snotty little .025 that still outworks me. I bought a mccollough years back for about 2/3 the price of a good saw. After I was trying to clean up after a big storm, that gutless POC quit and wouldn't start. I bounced it off a tree a couple of times till I felt better, then bought my first Stihl and never went back. Buy junk, get junk.
husqvarna,24 and 36 inch bars,and a 14'' echo for the small stuff.
Looked at the stihls, my problem was the weight of the saw the 20'' still was 3-5 lbs more then the husqvzrna with less HP(CC'S)
My biggest problem is once you get used to the big saw and how fast(with the right cut in the chain) it will cut it's hard to start the little saw.
Go to a saw shop try all they have,and check to see what they are fixing in back,that is how I made my choice.
good luck
Looked at the stihls, my problem was the weight of the saw the 20'' still was 3-5 lbs more then the husqvzrna with less HP(CC'S)
My biggest problem is once you get used to the big saw and how fast(with the right cut in the chain) it will cut it's hard to start the little saw.
Go to a saw shop try all they have,and check to see what they are fixing in back,that is how I made my choice.
good luck
coobie
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I went with echo this time around verses my stihl saws(011-026-028) that were always VERY HARD to start.My echo saw starts 2nd pull every time.coobie
RobertN
Super Member
I agree. In my experience, it is easy to keep a sharp chain sharp. Once they are realy dull, then they are a chore by hand. I just don't let mine dull. A little touchup when I take a break or end for the day keeps them nice.
Personally I think people make a lot of hoopla over sharpening chains.... if you have one good eye and a semi-steady hand you can sharpen a chain with the right size hand file
