Box Scraper Box Scraper?

koryaube · Jul 2, 2009

I am looking to purchase a Box scraper. I own a Kubota 2920 with a FEL...my question is can this tractor handle a 5 foot BB or should I go with a smaller 4 foot. The dealer I purchased My tractor from has a Howse 4 foot he will sell for $425. But I really like my Woods grooming mower RD6000 and would like a woods gb 60. I am aso under the impression that the "SCARIFIERS" on the Howse may work them-self loose from another post.

DrewL · Jul 2, 2009

I would hope that your dealer would say a five foot BB would be just fine for your machine.

SouthernConservative · Jul 2, 2009

WOODS GB 60 -Will be all you need

iplumb · Jul 2, 2009

I use a 5' KK Box blade for my 2920 and love it! Wouldn't want anything smaller. Plenty of power.

koryaube · Jul 3, 2009

Thanks for the replies my local dealer has a GB 60 for $900 does this sound fair? Thanks for the help.

greg_g · Jul 4, 2009

Sounds a bit pricey to me, but that said - I've never seen anything with a Woods decal that wasn't. The important factor is width and weight. You want a BB that is wider than your tire tracks. And the heavier the better. My approach to buying implements like that is price per pound. If no other features help you make up your mind, divide the price by the weight and get the best dollar per pound deal.

One feature to study carefully is the A-frame section that connects the implement to the tractor. If you plan on pushing material (in reverse), that's your weak link. The sturdier the better.

//greg//

dirt ditch · Jul 4, 2009

Defiantly want a box wide enough to cover the tire tracks. Mine is the same width as the loader bucket. If I need to dig a hole the box blade can be backed down the ramp that is created and rip the hard dirt then turn the tractor around to dig with the loader until I'm down to hard dirt again then repeat ripping with the box blade. A couple weeks ago I dug a hole over 4ft deep this way to remove a cement antenna base.

biffo · Jul 5, 2009

... as weight is one of the critical factors what would be a good weight for a 5 foot box blade?

MtnViewRanch · Jul 5, 2009

biffo said:
... as weight is one of the critical factors what would be a good weight for a 5 foot box blade?

500-750 pounds

dirt ditch · Jul 6, 2009

Most of the folks here subscribe to the bigger and heaver theory when it comes to box blades. Nothing wrong with that as they probably use them far more than I do, have more experience, and use larger more powerful tractors in tougher soil conditions. I was going to buy a heavy duty box blade and spend more money than I should out of my budget to get it. Then I came across a standard duty box blade on sale. With the special the store was running and a % off coupon the price came to $235. For that price it was worth the risk and it has turned out to be a great buy for me. It now weighs 495lbs By adding some weights. I have used it to grade my road, rip out old asphalt, cement, roots, and do some leveling. So if a person has a tight budget and normal conditions a standard box blade might work just fine.

Donkey Shade Farm · Jul 6, 2009

dirt ditch said:
Most of the folks here subscribe to the bigger and heaver theory when it comes to box blades. Nothing wrong with that as they probably use them far more than I do, have more experience, and use larger more powerful tractors in tougher soil conditions. I was going to buy a heavy duty box blade and spend more money than I should out of my budget to get it. Then I came across a standard duty box blade on sale. With the special the store was running and a % off coupon the price came to $235. For that price it was worth the risk and it has turned out to be a great buy for me. It now weighs 495lbs By adding some weights. I have used it to grade my road, rip out old asphalt, cement, roots, and do some leveling. So if a person has a tight budget and normal conditions a standard box blade might work just fine.

DD, I'm on the fence over making a rear blade or a box blade my next purchase. How else do you use you BB?

newbury · Jul 6, 2009

You might want to search the forum.
Some people do almost anything with a BB.
Check out:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/owning-operating/116316-various-boxblade-uses.html

workinallthetime · Jul 6, 2009

I have been in the market to buy a BB for a awhile now and its amazing the price difference from place to place. For a 5 foot to 5.5 foot i have been told 350-850 with 1 in the 700 range as being sold as a "heavy duty". The funniest thing was when I called a kubota dealer and asked him what size he suggested for my b3030, a 4 foot

. I said DUDE my loader is 5 foot shouldnt i at least get something that would clear the tracks, he said he was not aware of the size of a b3030. Einstine's price was 750 for a 5.5 foot "regular duty" lol

taborekle · Jul 6, 2009

Hummm, I was moving dirt just last week with a standard 5 ft blade on the back of my tractor and found that when the blade got full, the tractor (a Kubota B2920) did not have the umph to pull it. I had to lift the blade and dump some of it's load before proceeding.

The dirt was wet.

Wouldn't a box blade have the same problem?

I'm a novice, so this could have been operator error.

dirt ditch · Jul 6, 2009

Donkey Shade What I listed before is purdy much what I have done with a box blade. My projects have been much smaller than some on this site.

The first attachment I bought was a 6ft rear blade to get my 1/2 mile drive back in shape. Paid 3 times what the box blade cost me. I do not have top & tilt on my three point so I bought a blade with both angle and tilt adjustments. I live in the sand hills. My road is fine sand. It looses its shape and gets potholes much quicker than hard dirt, rock, or coarse sand. Sand is easy to cut and fast to move over the road with the blade angled. By tilting the blade I can cut a new ditch very quickly. I have used it in the dirt and the effects have been about the same but the forward or back roll of the blade is more critical and some times the blade will ride over a very hard spot instead of cutting it, mainly because of the lighter weight and no means to rip the soil ahead of the blade.

Now where my box blade works much better than the blade is on a very steep hill at the end of my drive. Rain washes deep ruts in the road. By filling the box with material at the bottom of the hill I can drag it back up the hill filling in the ruts. If it was a big rain it takes several passes up the hill to rebuild the road.

I have used both to move snow and they both worked well. Get a little more traction with the weight of the box.

That is my experience with both blades. Take newbury's suggestion and search the forum for more information lots of it out there by people how have put many more hours on blades than I have.

taborekle, my JD 790 looses traction if I try to pull a full load of wet sand with my 6ft blade. Also happens with my 5ft box blade. Have to take shallower cuts.

taborekle · Jul 7, 2009

dirt ditch said:
snip snip snip

taborekle, my JD 790 looses traction if I try to pull a full load of wet sand with my 6ft blade. Also happens with my 5ft box blade. Have to take shallower cuts.

Thanks dirt ditch, and I believe you are right. When the blade cut in and got a full blade, the blade continued to burrow and when the tractor stopped it was half way to China. I'm sure that it will take a lot of blading before I learn all the lessons of how to set the angle of the blade through the top link, and how to have the deft touch on the quarter-inching-valve to keep the blade from burrowing.

taborekle

Donkey Shade Farm · Jul 7, 2009

dirt ditch said:
I do not have top & tilt on my three point so I bought a blade with both angle and tilt adjustments.

Okay, another dumb question from rookie. What is and what will a top & tilt do for me?

newbury · Jul 7, 2009

Donkey Shade Farm said:
Okay, another dumb question from rookie. What is and what will a top & tilt do for me?

One thing I've found out is that TnT will lighten your $$.
If you've got one of the typical 3pt hitches you can adjust 1 side to elevate or lower, look at some of the WilsonOutdoors vids.

It's no way as easy, just depends if your wallet or your time is worth more.

dirt ditch · Jul 7, 2009

Sorry, my thinking n typing missed a beat. Should have been hydraulic top link and draft link. The hydraulic cylinders allow you to make those adjustments from the seat and on the go. Here is link to more info:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/123436-hydraulic-top-link-length-box.html

Here are a couple of the best threads that I know of on the use of the box blade.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/122762-beginners-guide-using-box-blade.html

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/owning-operating/116316-various-boxblade-uses.html

Hope these help you decide which side of the fence to start on.

workinallthetime · Jul 13, 2009

well after a week or so of looking im still undecided on the BB for me. I was at atwoods today and really got confused, 1 5 foot "prefect" ? brand was 485.00, 1 no name yellow one was 450.00, and 1 6' yellow one was 429. the bolt together design of the 3 point hook up worries me, has anyone had any issues with this set up? The more expensive 5" had the uprights welded in place with the extensions? bolted on. I am going to the auction to look tuesday and see 1st if they have a used one and if not I will buy one of their new ones, here is a link to their site, let me know if you guys have any pros or cons on the united brand.

Enlow Maine-Anjou Cattle & Tractor, Farm Machinery & Equipment Auction Co.