2520 First Service & Questions

[larry8818]

Hello Everyone,

This weekend marked my 48th hour on my 2520 and I decided to pull some maintenance. I did the following:

1. Replaced Engine Oil & Oil Filter
2. Replaced Fuel Filter & cleaned sediment bowl. If you follow the manual, add a step between steps 2 & 3. Remove sediment drain plug before you remove the sediment bowl. Fuel won't spill all over the place that way. Maybe JD figures for common sense on this one.
3. Replaced Primary Air Filter.
4. Replaced Transmission Oil & Oil Filter. This is where I was a little confused. On page 48 & 49 of my 2520 Operators Manual the pictures do not look like my 2520. The book shows 2 drain plugs?? My tractor only had one. For the filter, the book shows a filter on the inside of the transmission housing. My tractor has an outside spin on "oil filter" style. I went to JD Parts.com and notice by searching the schematics that there also seems to be an internal strainer surrounded by magnets to attact metal particles. I was wondering if the two pages from the book are for a 2320?? Also I did not remove the internal screen because I did the service yesterday and did not have the schematic at the time. Also on page 49 it says that the transmission takes approximately 10L or 2.6Gal. of fluid. It also states on page 65 under machine specs that these are the amounts that the Transmission & Hydraulic System have for capacities. Well I will tell you that these are wrong. My machine took 3 gallons of Hy-Guard. I went to John Deere.com and went to the specs of the 2520 online. Online spec states 3.9 gallons. After reading further on the specs in the book, the Rated Engine Speed is 3000RPM and the Rear Tire Size is 31". I think John Deere made a boo-boo and inadvertently put the specs for the 2320 in the 2520 book on pages 64 & 65. Any of you other 2520 owners care to check out your books and see for yourselves?

For anyone interested how much it would cost to do this service:
1. $6.50 M806419 Oil Filter
2. $10.50 M811031 Fuel Filter
3. $16.99 RG60690 Primary Air Filter
4. $29.25 LVU800097 Transmission Filter
5. $59.80 TY22000 JD Low-Visc. Hy-Guard ($14.95/gal.)
6. $9.75 TY6389 JD Plus50 SAE 15W40 ($3.25/qt.)

Total Cost of service $132.79

I'd love to hear other 2520 owners comments on any maintenance you've done and any problems you've encountered.

 

[Chris2520]

I am glad to hear these numbers. i was wondering what it would cost. fortunatly. the dealer gave me a filter pak kit when i bought the tractor . so the first service wont be so bad. I will take a look at the manual.....

Chris

 

[vintagemilano]

Is the real JD oils the way to go? I'm just not used to looking for industrial oils and greases after so many years of cars.

 

[YASH2520]

The 2520 does have an internal strainer at the back of tractor located just below the hydraulic oil level sight gauge. The magnets are inside the strainer.

 

[RollTideRam]

The only thing I did different on my first service was to clean the strainer, It really needed it. Also I bought the 5 gallon pail of hydro fluid and a pump. JC

 

[Yseesee]

I just changed the transmission fluid in my 2520 and the owner manual says it holds 3.9 gallons of fluid and thus far I've put in 5 gallons. I still don't see anything in the fluid level window. HOW MUCH DOES THIS THING HOLD???

 

[AKKubota]

My sight glass didn't show any fluid either - even after I over filled it.

Spin the PTO's and move the tractor around abit and you'll see. I just changed my fluid and put in just barely under 4 gal and have a "full" sight glass.

 

[Yseesee]

I ran the front loader through it's paces and drove the tractor around and that didn't make a difference in the sight gage. I'll give the PTO a try and see what happens. The fluid that was in there looked like normal transmission fluid (red). The stuff I put in looks almost like oil. If I did in fact over fill it by a gallon is that going to cause a problem???

 

[goodbyeNJ]

My 2520 takes a little over 4 gallons. As suggested, drive it, operate the loader (all functions) and run the pto's. Park it on a level spot, drop the loader and shut the machine off. Oil will show in the sight glass. At 5 gallons, if you work it hard and get everything hot you will probably push some oil out of the top of the axle. Must be a vent, but I never found it.

 

[Runner]

Yseesee,

My manual said nothing about draining the final drives at the rear wheels and I didn't figure it out myself until AFTER I had already added the new hydro oil. Therefore, mine didn't take the 3.9 gallons of oil either.

So, if you didn't drain each of the final drives, that may be the reason for the machine not taking the full amount of hydro oil.

 

[Rob-D]

It's very dangerous to overfill an engine or tranny. You can create pressure problems and blow a seal.
The fluide should be red, are you using Deere fluids?
Five gallons is too much!

Rob

 

[kennyd]

The fluid that was in there looked like normal transmission fluid (red). The stuff I put in looks almost like oil.

The fluide should be red, are you using Deere fluids?

Rob

Only the fluid that is put in at the factory is RED, the JD Hy-Guard fluid is NOT red but like a light brown color.

 

[jimgerken]

If you drained the two final drives, removed and cleaned the screen, and changed the spin-on filter, it takes 17 quarts to refill it properly. The new JD oil will be more clear than the orig red stuff, so won't show very well in the window. There is a dipstick under the seat. Yellow handle. Very tough to get to and replace after checking. If you check your dipstick you will see yours is way overfilled. Drain some off. Save what you drain if you can. Strain it thru a paint strainer and put it back in the jug. Good luck.

 

[Rob-D]

You're right Kenny, the fluid I put in my tractor at 50 hours was Amsoil and it is red.

 

[WH401]

You're right Kenny, the fluid I put in my tractor at 50 hours was Amsoil and it is red.

What Amsoil fluid did you use? because as far as I know the Synthetic Hydraulic/Transmission oil, which is the closest direct replacement of JD Hygard that Amsoil offers, is of a light brown/golden color.

 

[thatguy]

I had a similar problem with my 2320.. i didnt measure the fluid coming out and just kept putting more in.. I did run the engine to check the sight glass - but kept adding more fluid and running the engine and it never showed in the glass

WHEN the oil started coming out of the fill hole I knew I had too much.. :-(

Then as I drained it I would stop and run the engine (high rpms) and turn on the rear PTO.. The oil was in the sight glass the first time the PTO was run. OOPS

I would drain fluid. Then run the engine/pto until the window was about 1/2 way with the engine turned off.

Brian

 

[Gizmo2]

Had issues with my 2320 first Hydro oil change also but got through it.
It's like, HELLOOOOOOOOOO Dip Stick, sure would make life easier.

 

[Rob-D]

What Amsoil fluid did you use? because as far as I know the Synthetic Hydraulic/Transmission oil, which is the closest direct replacement of JD Hygard that Amsoil offers, is of a light brown/golden color.

Hi WH,
Not sure but I think it was red in the sight glass. Won't be using it in my new guy when I do the change at 50 though. It always had a strong smell like it was burning and its expansion was greater then Deere oil. I constantly had to break the quick connects on the power beyond when I put the BH on or took it off. I'm still debating if I will use it in the engine. I still have some of their diesel engine oil left.
Everyone I talk to says Deere oil is very good and I have no reason to doubt it.

 

[WH401]

Hi WH,
Not sure but I think it was red in the sight glass. Won't be using it in my new guy when I do the change at 50 though. It always had a strong smell like it was burning and its expansion was greater then Deere oil. I constantly had to break the quick connects on the power beyond when I put the BH on or took it off. I'm still debating if I will use it in the engine. I still have some of their diesel engine oil left.
Everyone I talk to says Deere oil is very good and I have no reason to doubt it.

Ah, I see. Ive had good experience with their 15w-40 diesel oil. I run it in a 7.3 in a Ford Excursion and I change it once a year. The UOA always comes back looking good and I plan to change the tractor over to it at 100 hrs.

 

[Rob-D]

Ah, I see. Ive had good experience with their 15w-40 diesel oil. I run it in a 7.3 in a Ford Excursion and I change it once a year. The UOA always comes back looking good and I plan to change the tractor over to it at 100 hrs.

I like synthetics, don't get me wrong. I run Mobil 1 in my Subaru Outback but the chain tensioners are noisy when it starts up as it doesn't keep the tensioners full when the car idles. I don't know if the Porsche boxer engine has the same problem though. I don't get this with dino oil.
I use Amsoil in my 2 cycle bikes and there it really shines not that it's bad in the tractor, it makes winter starting easier so it will probably stay in that use. I just put Mobil 1 in the Ztrak so I'll see how it works out.
In the hydraulics the odor is very noticeable and it must have a greater expansion rate because I don't run into the quick connect trouble with Deere oil as often. Also the power may be a little lower although I haven't had the 2320 in awhile.
Actually I think Deere is a semi-synthetic. An oil engineer was saying that because of the reduced size of the molecules in synthetics the semi-synthetic is a better overall oil. He should know he did it his whole life.
Thing is, modern oils are so superior that most work very well and remember sythetic is still dino oil, just modded.
If you have a car with CSK then synthetics are usually noisier at startup at least till the pistons expand to their working size.
I don't know who makes Deere's oil but it's not cheap!
By the way my Subie gets an honest 27+ mpg combined with synthetic.
Rob