Pat's Easy Change Pat's Easy Change System - Order Online!

[PATG]

Can you lower the lift arm all the down so that they are both lower than the pins? That way the only one you have to worry about is the one you can't manually lower. Lower the lift arms all the way down and back under the pins then lift your arms, the one that gives you trouble should latch first and then the other one will come up and latch. Since you are not trying to align both sides at the same time it should help. Hope I am not confusing you more.

Vicky

 

[Charlton John]

Hi, No you are not confussing me. The way the tractor is currently set up I cant lower the lift arms lower than than the pin placement by using the 3 pt lever. I lower them as far down as they go by using the lever. Than I have to get off the tractor and on one of the arms (right) I have the option to turn the turnbuckle and lower this arm only even more to the desired height to match the BB pin. Then the problem comes in. At this point I have one arm and pin attached but the left arm has no mechanism to manually lower and does not lower w/ the manual one when I am turning the turnbuckle it stays where it was. So at this point is where I need to lift the attachement and bring the other side up to the height of the lift arm and then do my best (usually using my leg) to push the other pin through, then I attach the top link and I am good.

I beleive I read in my manual there is a way to make your arms come even lower???? But what I am confused about is w/ only 1 turnbuckle option on the right arm to manually lower even more than the lever gives me how do I get them to lower at the same rate/position so I can use the Pats exchange?

 

[gemini5362]

Hi, No you are not confussing me. The way the tractor is currently set up I cant lower the lift arms lower than than the pin placement by using the 3 pt lever. I lower them as far down as they go by using the lever. Than I have to get off the tractor and on one of the arms (right) I have the option to turn the turnbuckle and lower this arm only even more to the desired height to match the BB pin. Then the problem comes in. At this point I have one arm and pin attached but the left arm has no mechanism to manually lower and does not lower w/ the manual one when I am turning the turnbuckle it stays where it was. So at this point is where I need to lift the attachement and bring the other side up to the height of the lift arm and then do my best (usually using my leg) to push the other pin through, then I attach the top link and I am good.

I beleive I read in my manual there is a way to make your arms come even lower???? But what I am confused about is w/ only 1 turnbuckle option on the right arm to manually lower even more than the lever gives me how do I get them to lower at the same rate/position so I can use the Pats exchange?

it is sounding like you have something wrong with your lift arms possibly. Every tractor I have owned when working properly the lift arms went down below the implements I was trying to hook up. do you have anything set on your lift arm controller to stop it from going past a certain point. Some lift arms have lockable stops so you can go back to the same point. Does your tractor have one of those set ? I also have had problems with my Montana tractor the arms not going down at all. or just going part of the way down. They had me adjust my hydraulic flow control all the way to the fastest setting then move the arms up and down then put it back where I had it. Could something like that be the problem.

I guess the big question is how far from the ground does the non adjustable lift are go when it is at its lowest point.


Also by the Pats system I absolutely love mine

 

[PATG]

Thanks Gemini5362.

John,
Try the suggestions Gemini came up with and let me know.

Vicky

 

[Charlton John]

Thanks Vicky and Gemini, My lift arms do not go to the ground. I will have to take a closer look next time I get the BB off the tractor (I have been spreading a lot of dirt and making trails with it in the woods so I have had it attached since I hooked it up last time. I would estimate that my lift arms (by using lever) maybe go about 2 feet from ground??? I beleive it was about 6 inches or so short of actually aligning up to the BB. I read the manual last night briefly and it did make a reference to different lift arm placements and ways to adjust height of lowering and raising so hopefully this weekend I can play w/ it and see if I can resolve so I can order these easy exchanges and make life a lot easier for me. I will keep you posted, thanks again!

 

[B2620]

The Kubota 2620 has an adjustment for the low point of the lift arms. This is used so you can return to the same point each time you lower a box blade or whatever.
The owners manual shows how to adjust this. The adjustment is under the drivers seat on the right side. If you lift the seat and move the 3pt lever up/down you will see a rod about 5 inches long that runs lengthwise moving front to back. On this rod there is a stop with a bolt and lock nut to hold it place. By loosening the lock nut and blot, you can slide the stop to another position of the rod. This will make the 3pt stop at a lower or higher position depending on the location of the stop.
The 3pt arms on my 2620 almost touch the ground at the lowest setting.
Good Luck,
B2620

Kubota 2620, FEL, Woods Hog, Woods Box Blade, Snow Blade, Next year BH

 

[Charlton John]

Thanks 2620. I was actually able to check the manual more thouroughly last night and seen this as well. I located the adjustment rod also. It was getting pretty dark (no power in the barn yet) and I didnt feel like taking off the BB to adjust. I will most likely play this weekend. Do you know of the top of your head if the stop needs to go backwards toward the 3pt to make lower or torwards the FEL? Also did you have to adjust yours upon purchase? Thanks a bunch!

 

[B2620]

Yes, I had to adjust mine. However, I needed to adjust it to not go as low when I had my Brush Hog on. When I changed to the Box Blade, I needed to go quite a bit lower.
I would guess if I had mounted the BB first I would have had to adjust it to go lower.
You have to move the stop further away from the ring that the rod goes through. It's pressure on the ring from the stop that stops the downward motion. You can actually feel the pressure sort of pushing on the 3pt up/down lever.

Kubota 2620, Loaded Industrial, FW, FEL, Woods Hog, Woods Box Blade, Snow Blade, Next year BH

 

[jwaynejtx]

I got Pat's easy change this week ,install it friday works great .Had to run the toplink out a little further than I like, so I build a extender for the toplink out of 1/2 x 21/2 flat iron. The last picture is my custom portable paint booth.

 

[Paddy_NC]

I got Pat's easy change this week ,install it friday works great .Had to run the toplink out a little further than I like, so I build a extender for the toplink out of 1/2 x 21/2 flat iron.

This kind of articulated extension works great with, say a bush hog or a flail mower, but don't use it with a box blade or a ripper: it will "push" on the upper link when engaged in the ground, at some point the extension will move sideways and apply a lateral lever effect that may distort or break something.
Don't ask me how I know it!
I really wish Pat would make an additional rigid extension for the upper link, to compensate for the added length...

HTH,

Patrick (yet another one)

 

[kebo]

This kind of articulated extension works great with, say a bush hog or a flail mower, but don't use it with a box blade or a ripper: it will "push" on the upper link when engaged in the ground, at some point the extension will move sideways and apply a lateral lever effect that may distort or break something.
Don't ask me how I know it!
I really wish Pat would make an additional rigid extension for the upper link, to compensate for the added length...

HTH,

Patrick (yet another one)

Patrick, have you considered shortening the left and right draft links ever how much the Pat's kit adds to it??? Seems like that might be the better way to go cause then you could use any implement without having to worry about the above situation happening! That would achieve the same affect of adding that little extension you made for the top centerlink. If you were to shorten them the draft links, I imagine they would need some metal plates welded onto the sides to strengthen them back up.

I like the concept of Pat's easy change kit better than the quick hitch designs and so I'm thinking about ordering a pair. If I do, then I might have to think about having both draft links cut down some.

 

[PATG]

kebo,

I have been working on the system for the lift arms with the extendable lift arms. All you do is remove the extensions and slide the easy change in. I have them for the John Deere 4700 series and now have the drawings for the Kubota L series.

 

[bbirder]

I got Pat's easy change this week ,install it friday works great .Had to run the toplink out a little further than I like, so I build a extender for the toplink out of 1/2 x 21/2 flat iron. The last picture is my custom portable paint booth.

Just received my order from Pat's and I have the same problem.
What keeps your extender from knuckling up or down when you lift the 3pt or does that matter. I think it might cause me problems with my hay forks.

 

[PATG]

I have some longer top links that I keep in stock. They are $25.00 - $30.00 and made really sturdy. If anybody is interested just call me.

 

[Paddy_NC]

Patrick, have you considered shortening the left and right draft links ever how much the Pat's kit adds to it??? Seems like that might be the better way to go cause then you could use any implement without having to worry about the above situation happening! That would achieve the same affect of adding that little extension you made for the top centerlink.

Kebo, I was merely warning jwaynejtx against using an 'articulated' extender with ground-engaging implements like a box blade, a plow or a tine... Shortening the lower links was my first idea when I got Pat's kit, but I did choose instead to extend all my implements (except the bush hog, that was not necessary since it has chains): a 'knuckling' extension for the flail mower (I have a very hilly land, so it helps a lot follow the ground contour) and I welded longer arms for the one-tine ripper and the box blade. This was in fact necessary only because I use a hydraulic top link which is a bit too short (20~28") with Pat's kit, lengthening the original top link would have been OK.

 

[kebo]

kebo,

I have been working on the system for the lift arms with the extendable lift arms. All you do is remove the extensions and slide the easy change in. I have them for the John Deere 4700 series and now have the drawings for the Kubota L series.

I have JD 790, any plans to do something for the smaller compacts??
Thanks,
Keith

 

[3RRL]

Patrick, have you considered shortening the left and right draft links ever how much the Pat's kit adds to it??? Seems like that might be the better way to go cause then you could use any implement without having to worry about the above situation happening! That would achieve the same affect of adding that little extension you made for the top centerlink. If you were to shorten them the draft links, I imagine they would need some metal plates welded onto the sides to strengthen them back up.

I like the concept of Pat's easy change kit better than the quick hitch designs and so I'm thinking about ordering a pair. If I do, then I might have to think about having both draft links cut down some.

When I got a 2nd pair of Pat's for my wife's tractor, that's exactly what I did.
Cut out a section of the drag links by the amount of extension and re welded them. Now they are stock length with Pat's on. Same lift power now.
Here's some photos of it if you haven't seen them before.

 

[scott_vt]

When I got a 2nd pair of Pat's for my wife's tractor, that's exactly what I did.
Cut out a section of the drag links by the amount of extension and re welded them. Now they are stock length with Pat's on. Same lift power now.
Here's some photos of it if you haven't seen them before.

/quote]

Good Afternoon Rob,
Hey old buddy, those lower arm adjusters, those are nifty ! Did you buy those or make them, they look way better than my chains and turnbuckles !

 

[SPYDERLK]

When I got a 2nd pair of Pat's for my wife's tractor, that's exactly what I did.
Cut out a section of the drag links by the amount of extension and re welded them. Now they are stock length with Pat's on. Same lift power now.
Here's some photos of it if you haven't seen them before.

I think Ill be doing that on my wifes tractor. She hit a bump the other day with a heavy implement and it fell to the ground. Something broken inside. That extra leverage on the tractor never seemed a good idea. Im just about ready to go inside and see what it is.
larry

 

[3RRL]

Larry, I don't envy you going to check out what's wrong right now.
It must be colder than heck in you side of town!

Scotty,
Those stabilizers to the lower links came stock with her Jinma!
They are good ones. My larger Kama came with similar ones except they are round and much thicker wall. They've held up after all that backwards bulldozing I've done.
BTW, never once did the boxblade jump out of Pat's system, regardless what I ran into ... forward or backward. So they hold the implement pins securely.