GC 2310 Block Heater

[irvingj]

Just bought one from Northwood Power-- It was a bit pricey at $140+, but man, the thing fits perfectly! It seems very well put together, its mounting plate made out of 3/16" solid steel of some kind, and the installation was a breeze.

Just poke out the upper freeze plug on the front left side of the engine (just above oil filter), put some silicone grease on the o-ring fitting, and it pops right in. Threaded holes in the block are already there.

Attached with two bolts (though only one came with the kit-), it also has a detachable 120VAC plug that's held in with a threaded collar so it can be removed when not needed. I also found that a standard garden hose cap fits the thread to cover the socket when the AC cord's not attached.

My hope is that I'll be able to reduce warm-up time (consuming $$diesel fuel). It ain't huge at only 400 watts, but it ought to do the job....

 

[Bever22]

I always wanted one in my 2310 but never did it. I got one with my 1528 when I bought it but I haven't tried it out yet. They should make a difference.

 

[ray66v]

That will help with starting. But, remember there is still 5 gallons of hydraulic fluid you need to warm up through friction, and that's still going to take a while.

You might want to consider also adding a silicone pad heater to the bottom of your axle. Pro Heat Small Oil Pan Heater, 2-1/4" x 4" Pad, 125 Watt : JC Whitney It won't heat the oil up. But, if you keep it plugged in, it does warm the axle housing, and that will keep it from getting really cold.

Using a magnetic heater on the engine, the pad heater on the trans axle, and synthetic oil, I feel comfortable reducing the low temperature warm up times, when I need to.

 

[irvingj]

Good point, Ray. I haven't figured a way around the hydraulic fluid yet, but I'm working on that, too. Matybe a light bulb? I've heard the horror stories about blown hydraulic filters --and worse-- from pushing cold fluid, so I'll be careful about that.

50-hr service coming up soon; this time I'll use regular fluid, but am seriously considering a switch to synthetic- my VW TDI requires it, and it makes a lot of sense.

Also found that M-F apparently used to have a ground strap on the block that used one of the bolt holes where the block htr mounts, according to paperwork with the kit- guess that's why the kit only came with one bolt. No such ground strap on my 2310, however.... dealer was kind enough to give me a second bolt-- Thanks, Rick!

 

[DEWFPO]

Even though this block heater is only 400W, the engine in the 2300/2310 is only 1.1 L IIRC. And, even though it's cast iron, that little block heater works very well. My 2300 is very cold blooded. At 30F w/o the block heater on, I need about 30-40 seconds of glow plug for it to light off. At that temp, with the block heater on for 2-3 hrs, I'm not sure I'd need much more than 10 seconds, if that.

I switched over to synthetics in both the engine and hydro and typically only warm it up for 5-10 minutes before using in the winter but I engage the snowblower at low rpm and raise the throttle modestly fast to full rpm and take it easy (slow) for the first 5 minutes of blowing. That seems to heat things up fairly quickly and I have not had a problem blowing a filter or a line.

I leave the cord on and just put a baggie over it (with some tape) and stick it inside the frame for the summer. It isn't in the way of anything there.

Enjoy your new block heater.

DEWFPO

 

[WilliamBos]

Even though this block heater is only 400W, the engine in the 2300/2310 is only 1.1 L IIRC. And, even though it's cast iron, that little block heater works very well. My 2300 is very cold blooded. At 30F w/o the block heater on, I need about 30-40 seconds of glow plug for it to light off. At that temp, with the block heater on for 2-3 hrs, I'm not sure I'd need much more than 10 seconds, if that.

I switched over to synthetics in both the engine and hydro and typically only warm it up for 5-10 minutes before using in the winter but I engage the snowblower at low rpm and raise the throttle modestly fast to full rpm and take it easy (slow) for the first 5 minutes of blowing. That seems to heat things up fairly quickly and I have not had a problem blowing a filter or a line.

I leave the cord on and just put a baggie over it (with some tape) and stick it inside the frame for the summer. It isn't in the way of anything there.

Enjoy your new block heater.

DEWFPO

what flavour and brand of syn you running in the hydro??

 

[DEWFPO]

what flavour and brand of syn you running in the hydro??

Amsoil ATH, Tractor Hydraulic Transmission Fluid, All Weather 5W30. It's the only synthetic I was able to find for this unit. I checked with them to make sure it was a direct replacement for the MF OE fluid. I've been very pleased with it. The tractor is even a little quieter with in. I've had it in for 2 full winters now and it still looks new through the sight glass.

DEWFPO

 

[WilliamBos]

Amsoil ATH, Tractor Hydraulic Transmission Fluid, All Weather 5W30. It's the only synthetic I was able to find for this unit. I checked with them to make sure it was a direct replacement for the MF OE fluid. I've been very pleased with it. The tractor is even a little quieter with in. I've had it in for 2 full winters now and it still looks new through the sight glass.

DEWFPO

Awesome!! And how is the hydro whine, expecially in high speeds?? And what about winter performance?? Warm up?? Ours still has Permatran in it, but I think Amsoil will find it's way in there next fall.

Thanks.

 

[DEWFPO]

Awesome!! And how is the hydro whine, expecially in high speeds?? And what about winter performance?? Warm up?? Ours still has Permatran in it, but I think Amsoil will find it's way in there next fall.

Thanks.

The whine is different, not as intense it seems, perhaps a little quieter. Winter performance has been great as I described above.

DEWFPO

 

[ray66v]

At 30F w/o the block heater on, I need about 30-40 seconds of glow plug for it to light off.
DEWFPO

I'm running the same Amsoil, with an oil pan heater, no block heater, and mine will start below 30F without that much glow time.

Are you sure you don't have carbon build up on your glow plugs, or possibly a weak one?

 

[DEWFPO]

I'm running the same Amsoil, with an oil pan heater, no block heater, and mine will start below 30F without that much glow time.

Are you sure you don't have carbon build up on your glow plugs, or possibly a weak one?

Good questions, I've checked for voltage at each glow plug when the key is turned and all 3 have full battery voltage. I don't know how to check for a weak glow plug. Two appear to be easy to get to and one looks like a bear. I've only got 81 hrs on the machine and it doesn't smoke when running unless I lug it down a bit. Overall a very clean running machine. I use an anti-gel additive/cetane booster in the winter. When it was new it wasn't this cold blooded. It started faster, better with less glow plug than now. Once it starts it runs fine, no sputter, no smoke. At 70F, on a cold start it will need 10-15 seconds of glow plug. I've never cranked it long enough to see if it will light without the glow plug at that temp.

Your thoughts are appreciated.

DEWFPO

 

[WilliamBos]

I'm running the same Amsoil, with an oil pan heater, no block heater, and mine will start below 30F without that much glow time.

Are you sure you don't have carbon build up on your glow plugs, or possibly a weak one?

I was thinking along the same lines, with one exception, has it been like that since new?? How much does your altitude affect starting? So far, ours has been great.

 

[DEWFPO]

I was thinking along the same lines, with one exception, has it been like that since new?? How much does your altitude affect starting? So far, ours has been great.

It started easier, faster, better the first year I had it (when new). I live at 7,200 ft so that may enter into it but it did start better when new.

DEWFPO

 

[WilliamBos]

It started easier, faster, better the first year I had it (when new). I live at 7,200 ft so that may enter into it but it did start better when new.

DEWFPO

I wonder if a plug is not heating up as hot as thew others?? What year is it? Warranty??

 

[DEWFPO]

I wonder if a plug is not heating up as hot as thew others?? What year is it? Warranty??

Even with a bad glow plug I would think the other 2 cylinders would lite up. But it either fires or it doesn't. I bought it in April 2006, warranty is gone.

DEWFPO

 

[jaybrad]

My 2310 came with the block heater installed. The dealer didn't mention that it was an option, so I figured that's the way they were all configured.

I also run Amsoil in my tractor - both engine and hydro. This is my first winter, so I don't have any first hand experience in cold weather in this tractor, but have been using Amsoil in many other applications for a couple of decades and like it a lot.

My tractor will be in an insulated (but not heated) garage that rarely gets below 40 degrees, so I wonder if it is *really* necessary to let it warm up before using? The garage is attached to the house, and running a diesel engine for even a few minutes is really going to stink (literally).

What say ye?

Jay

 

[DEWFPO]

My 2310 came with the block heater installed. The dealer didn't mention that it was an option, so I figured that's the way they were all configured.

I also run Amsoil in my tractor - both engine and hydro. This is my first winter, so I don't have any first hand experience in cold weather in this tractor, but have been using Amsoil in many other applications for a couple of decades and like it a lot.

My tractor will be in an insulated (but not heated) garage that rarely gets below 40 degrees, so I wonder if it is *really* necessary to let it warm up before using? The garage is attached to the house, and running a diesel engine for even a few minutes is really going to stink (literally).

What say ye?

Jay

40 degrees is still not operating temp. Start the tractor and pull it out of the garage and let it warm up a little.

DEWFPO

 

[ray66v]

At 70F, on a cold start it will need 10-15 seconds of glow plug.
DEWFPO

At 70F you should be able to start it without any glow plugs, after a few seconds of cranking.

At 81 hours its unlikely you have carbon deposits on them, so I would test them with an Ohm meter, to see if they are all at, or near zero Ohms. You can test them in place with the wire lead disconnected. Hold one test lead to the top of the glow plug, and the other to a ground.

One bad glow plug can cause your problem. Although; it would seem that is unlikely at 81 hrs., anything is possible.

If it started fast when you got it, something has changed.

 

[ray66v]

My tractor will be in an insulated (but not heated) garage that rarely gets below 40 degrees, so I wonder if it is *really* necessary to let it warm up before using? The garage is attached to the house, and running a diesel engine for even a few minutes is really going to stink (literally).

What say ye?

Jay

I agree with DEWFPO. I would put it in low, and slowly drive it outside. Then, give it 5 min. to warm up.

 

[ray66v]

Even with a bad glow plug I would think the other 2 cylinders would lite up. But it either fires or it doesn't. I bought it in April 2006, warranty is gone.

DEWFPO

The next thing I would check is compression. If 1 cyl. is off, that could cause starting issues.