Working with conduit

[raykos]

Hi all,

Been thinking about using 1/2" EMT conduit to make a rack to attach to the ROPS of my JD2305. Don't plan on using it for anything heavy or big, so metal conduit should be strong enough; however, I'm finding that fittings are a problem...they're more expensive than I thought, plus can't find things like normal elbows & tees. So, I bought a 1/2" EMT conduit bender, and it will bend the conduit 90 degrees with a 5" radius.

But, now I'm wondering; are there any tips or tricks to bend the conduit tighter than a 5" radius? Also, if I want to make something resembling a ladder, is there a way to attach the rungs to the rails, since I can't find any conduit tees? I was thinking about using 1/2' metal pipe clamps?

Thanks,
Ray

 

[Lunk]

Hi all,

Been thinking about using 1/2" EMT conduit to make a rack to attach to the ROPS of my JD2305. Don't plan on using it for anything heavy or big, so metal conduit should be strong enough; however, I'm finding that fittings are a problem...they're more expensive than I thought, plus can't find things like normal elbows & tees. So, I bought a 1/2" EMT conduit bender, and it will bend the conduit 90 degrees with a 5" radius.

But, now I'm wondering; are there any tips or tricks to bend the conduit tighter than a 5" radius? Also, if I want to make something resembling a ladder, is there a way to attach the rungs to the rails, since I can't find any conduit tees? I was thinking about using 1/2' metal pipe clamps?

Thanks,
Ray

A tighter radius bender will be tough to find, as the radius allows for the electrician to fish wiring through the conduit.

As for rungs, my uncle has made a dozen ladder deer stands over the past few years, and he used his trusty wire-feed welder.

 

[Egon]

There should be a minimum diameter bend for each pipe size/schedule.

For a ladder use larger rails, drill holes and place the smaller steps in the holes.

You may also be able to find some light weight weldelets. Supplier???

 

[Kays Supply]

Egon has it on the ladder. I built a rack for an ATV that way. I bent 4 90s in 1" conduit. I drilled holes for 1/2" rungs. I pulled it apart and inserted the rungs. Then welded the two ends together. If you can't weld, a coupling woud have worked.

 

[TheKid]

Shade Canopy 3/4in fittings 1in fittings 1&3/8in fittings 1&5/8in fittings

They have T's and 90'S for 3/4 in. They're designed for building canopies, not for electrical connections. The 3/4 is near the bottom of the page.

 

[Mattlt]

Shade Canopy 3/4in fittings 1in fittings 1&3/8in fittings 1&5/8in fittings

They have T's and 90'S for 3/4 in. They're designed for building canopies, not for electrical connections. The 3/4 is near the bottom of the page.

That is great! I've been looking for fittings like this for a long time!

Now if I could just find a cheap way of swaging EMT conduit - I'd be set.

 

[texbaylea]

Hi all,

Been thinking about using 1/2" EMT conduit to make a rack to attach to the ROPS of my JD2305. Don't plan on using it for anything heavy or big, so metal conduit should be strong enough; however, I'm finding that fittings are a problem...they're more expensive than I thought, plus can't find things like normal elbows & tees. So, I bought a 1/2" EMT conduit bender, and it will bend the conduit 90 degrees with a 5" radius.

But, now I'm wondering; are there any tips or tricks to bend the conduit tighter than a 5" radius? Also, if I want to make something resembling a ladder, is there a way to attach the rungs to the rails, since I can't find any conduit tees? I was thinking about using 1/2' metal pipe clamps?

Thanks,
Ray

There is another quick and easy way using 1-3/8" chain link top rail. Corner fittings are available in several styles that attach with drill bolts. Very fast with a drill/driver. Gate brace clips would let you attach cross rails and they can be secured with a drill bolt. This same method is usable to build kennel panels. I easily built 6 x 20' panels and 4 x 6' panels and held them together with corner clamps. Gates are easily built and set into the panels. The top rail comes in lengths up to 21'.

Vernon

 

[Lar1911]

There should be a minimum diameter bend for each pipe size/schedule.

It's been a few years since I have run any conduit, but if I remember correctly we used the dia. x 9 for determining our rad. on conduit for a good pull. There are some ways that might work to tighten the radius, but if fittings can be found that would probably be the way to go.

 

[barneyrb]

Draw it out and take it to a muffler shop for bending and swaging. If you can carry the conduit and drawing usually a $20 get everything I need done here.

 

[czechsonofagun]

I built a bike trailer from the conduit. Welded together, holding up really well.

 

[Skerby]

a trick for a tighter radius is this.. fill the tube with SAND and cork up the ends, then bend your tight radius around a block of wood or 2" or 3" pipe or whatever.. the sand should prevent the tube from collapse..
good luck...

 

[Gary Fowler]

I am thinking that you folks are talking apples and oranges here. RAYKOS said he was using EMT not electrical conduit. EMT is estremely lightwalled tubing for use as wiring raceway inside of buildings and is not to be confused with standard conduit which is the same as schedule 40 pipe which is probably 5 or more time stronger than EMT. I wouldnt trust EMT to hold up much more weight than the wire that it be filled with and certainly wouldnt use it to build any kind of support structure.

 

[Trucker1]

You could also bend the end of each "rung" to 90 degrees forming something like this [

then just use radiator hose clamps to attach them to the rails. Like Gary said, you can't use this for structural purposes, so this idea may work for you. No welding or drilling and you get to use your new bender more!!

 

[JustGary]

I have built several things using 1/2 and 3/4 EMT. You can get a clean 90 degree angle by cutting the pipe on a 45 (a chop or radial saw with a metal-cutting blade works well). I almost always braze the pipe instead of welding it. I would probably weld if I had a wire-feed unit. You can gusset corners if you need more strength, but remember that the tubing is not very strong to begin with.

For a ladder rung, I would cut the rung to the outside dimension of the ladder, then hammer the ends of the rung flat, curve the ends a bit to match the joined pipe, and braze it on. It is fast, fairly strong, and looks good after you do a couple of them.

You can get decent butt joints by cutting the pipe a little long and filing a curve into the butt with a rat-tailed file. I find that closing the sides of the joint a little (with a hammer) makes it mate a little better.

For a ladder I would use 3/4 or 1" tubing unless the ladder is short and you are light.

Regards,

- Just Gary

 

[Aquaele]

As an Industrial Electrical Contractor for many years I too have used EMT and rigid conduit to build many things, By the way there is also aluminum Rigid conduit available as well. My only concern is that the emt and rigid are both hot dip galvanized when you are brazing (which works very well) you must be very careful of the fumes as they put me in the hospital once with what was finally diagnosed as "Brass Foundry Syndrome", It cuses muscle spasms and hyper sensitivity to stimulants. Treatment, drink lots of milk to replace the calcium in you body that was displaced by the fumes. Relief can be gotten in as little as one hour after the mild was consumed. Good luck.

 

[raykos]

Thanks for all the input guys, really appreciate it. I know I'll probably be using a lot of the info provided; if not for this project, definitely somewhere else down the line. That "things to do" list never seems to get any smaller!!!