How tight should a check chain be?

[tallyho8]

My tractor did not have a check chain on it when I bought it. I made one up and put it on but I don't think I have it tight enough. Is there a certain amount of play that you should have in your lower links from being pushed fully to the right and then pushed fully to the left?

 

[AchingBack]

Mainly, tallyho8, you don't want the chains rubbing on your tires.

 

[TYMinColton]

My tractor did not have a check chain on it when I bought it. I made one up and put it on but I don't think I have it tight enough. Is there a certain amount of play that you should have in your lower links from being pushed fully to the right and then pushed fully to the left?

Great question Tallyho. I was wondering the same thing. I typically tighten both chains so as to keep the 3pt and attachment "locked" and centered behind the tractor. I have an older ford that came without chains and never liked the feeling of a 500 lb brush hog swinging violently from side-to-side. This is how I've always done it, maybe someone else has a different opinion.

 

[radman1]

When I use check chains, I usually leave them just barely slack in the down postion with the implement onteh tractor. I only allow a little lateral movement. On some tractors I have noticed the chains being more slack in the raised rather than down position.

 

[3RRL]

Hi tallyho8,
When you say check chains, I presume you mean the stabilizer chains on the drag links or lower links, right? To keep the implement from swaying sideways too much? (Some guys refer to check chains being ones that are attached to the back of the tractor and to the front of an implement mostly like a brush hog which helps keep the front of the brush hog to remain in the same relative position 'up and down' to the tractor when mowing up and down dips and rises.)

If you mean the stabilizer chains, there needs to be some play to let them move a little and to compensate for when it's lifted into the air or dragged on the ground. I have seen on some models, if they are set too tight when dragging, they bust off when raising the implement. I don't have stabilizer chains but rather stabilizer bars. They have holes in them for adjustment and at each end, there is a slot about 1" long so they can slide in and out about 2" or so total (each one). So I would say have a little slack for the implement to move naturally but not too much so it sways into your rear tires. Check them in the lowered "working position" and also when you raise it to be sure they will not snap off when transporting the implement to the work site.

I only have one implement set real tight and that's my 3pt backhoe. I cinch that down. I don't know about plows or tillers though ... maybe they should be fairly tight too ... I dunno, but they should also be set so you can pick them up for transporting too? But the boxblade, landscape rake, rotary cutter and even post hole digger I leave some play for them to sway left to right. I mentioned a couple of inches each because that's what my stabilizer "bars" allow on my tractor, so I figure that should be alright. Even with only that much play they keep the implement well clear of my tires but allow a lot of tilting with my hydraulic side links for road work without busting off.
Here's a video to show how much I can tilt without breaking the stabilizers, yet keep the implement squarely and safely behind me. Also a couple pictures of the stabilizer bars which are on my wife's Jinma and also my Kama. Her's are square tubing and mine are round (they are the red ones).
Man, I sure hope that's what your were asking about...

 

[tallyho8]

Thanks for your answers. My last tractor had stabilizer bars and my new (to me) Ford has space for bars and/or check chains. I opted for the check chains and have left a little extra play in them for when I raise my brush cutter or tilt my box blade. It sure would be nice to have hydraulic adjustments like 3RRL has.

 

[Soundguy]

Great question Tallyho. I was wondering the same thing. I typically tighten both chains so as to keep the 3pt and attachment "locked" and centered behind the tractor. I have an older ford that came without chains and never liked the feeling of a 500 lb brush hog swinging violently from side-to-side. This is how I've always done it, maybe someone else has a different opinion.

Those older fords DID have provisions for installing stabilizers on them.. apparently you didn't opt to use them...

soundguy

 

[TYMinColton]

Those older fords DID have provisions for installing stabilizers on them.. apparently you didn't opt to use them...

soundguy

Kinda figured as much. Tractor came with the house - guess the previous owner didn't have the stabilizers.
Pete

 

[mwb]

Don't know what model you have but my 'old' ford (1974 model 2000) has chains that limit the drag link travel so the arms will not hit the tires (either with or without an implement attached. My tractor also has a single stabilizer bar that pins on the right side. The stabilizer is attached below the axle inline with the pivot for the drag link (same axis) and directly pins on to the implement 3pt with the drag link. There is no play side to side (i.e. no slots other than wear).

I use the stablizer for almost every attachment (it does not fit on something I have but i can't remember what...)

Cheers,
Mike

 

[TYMinColton]

You mean like these two chains on the back of my '62 Ford 881? They definitely do keep implements and the lower arms from hitting the rear tires, but they don't really check a load from swinging in about a 3-4 ft arc. . . . As mentioned above I don't have the stabilizer bar that was meant to keep things lined up with the rear of the tractor.

 

[mwb]

That is what mine has. The stabilizer is a flat bar that attachs to the underside of the right fender mount. There should be a stout piece of angle with a standard 7/8 pin (same as implement size) but shorter.

You can purchase the stabilizer bar from TSC, Princess Auto, etc.
http://www.tractorsupply.com/webapp...4345|14346|14347|14352|33798?listingPage=true
The only problem with the TSC one is that it is red!

My new Montana has double turnbuckle stabilizers but the single one works also. You will really appreciate the stabilizer once you get one.

If you would like more info I can take a close up pic of mine for you.

 

[TYMinColton]

I'd definitely appreciate a pic if it's not too much trouble. Come to think of it, I do have some old "junk" angle lying around in the barn. Looking closely at the TSC pic I may actually have these, but they have a small bend at one end. . . . not sure.
Thanks!
Pete

 

[mwb]

the do have a bend at one end. I think you would be better off with flat stock instead of angle. The flat bar is also spring steel, you will pretzel pig iron pretty quick.

I will post pics tomorrow AM.

Cheers,
Mike

 

[MicroPilot]

Stabilizer rules:

For non ground engaging equipment they should be tight to keep the implement from swaying

For ground engaging implements they should have some play so the implement can slide around immovable obstructions in the ground (rocks).


Least that's what my tractors manual says.

 

[jimmysisson]

Those flat bars with the bend on the end(s) can also be pinned in place of where the upper link is pinned. That creates a fairly rigid (though fixed-height) drawbar attachment for a trailer or some such. I think you'd want two in that situation.
Not explained well. 1. remove upper 3ph link, 2. place bent ends of stabiliser bars over the pins of a drawbar, 3. place ends of drawbar into lower link eyes and pin with linch pins, 4. swing unpinned end of stabilisers up and together, and slide upper link pin through upper holes of stabilisers.
Drawbar is fairly rigid in every direction, though fixed in height.
I used these stabilisers horizontally on a Massey 135 since the check chains were so worn the drawbar swung wildly. I made some brackets to bolt under the axle where the fender u-bolts sit, in line with the lower-link pins on the diffy housing. The stabilisers are weak in compression but fine in tension, so you need to use both.
Jim

 

[TYMinColton]

Those flat bars with the bend on the end(s) can also be pinned in place of where the upper link is pinned. That creates a fairly rigid (though fixed-height) drawbar attachment for a trailer or some such. I think you'd want two in that situation.
Not explained well. 1. remove upper 3ph link, 2. place bent ends of stabiliser bars over the pins of a drawbar, 3. place ends of drawbar into lower link eyes and pin with linch pins, 4. swing unpinned end of stabilisers up and together, and slide upper link pin through upper holes of stabilisers.
Drawbar is fairly rigid in every direction, though fixed in height.
I used these stabilisers horizontally on a Massey 135 since the check chains were so worn the drawbar swung wildly. I made some brackets to bolt under the axle where the fender u-bolts sit, in line with the lower-link pins on the diffy housing. The stabilisers are weak in compression but fine in tension, so you need to use both.
Jim

Jim,
This makes total sense now. I do have two of these flat bars (sorry, they're not angle bar as I may have previously written) and also have a drawbar with a standard ball hitch. I can see how when used together they should provide lateral tension for pulling a trailer, etc.
Thanks,
Pete

 

[mwb]

Here is the pic of my Ford 2000 stabilizer. The stabilizer bar is shaped like a hockey stick so that it does not hit the axle then the hitch is raised.






Cheers,
Mike

 

[TYMinColton]

Thanks Mike. I indeed do have a couple of those stabilizer arms in my barn. Question: Do you think they can be used safely with a brush hog? or a rototiller? It seems to me that they might cause problems and either tighten/loosen when an implement is being raised/lowered.
Pete

 

[mwb]

There is only one used, you don't have one on the left side.

The tractor end of the stabilizer pin is aligned with the drag link pin so raising or lowering will not cause any lateral movement of your implement.

I use it for hoggin' and i would use it for a tiller. I think the only attachment I don't use if for is plows (really ground engaging). Rear blade, snowblower, cultivator, hog, ditching bucket all use the stabilizer.

 

[TYMinColton]

There is only one used, you don't have one on the left side.

The tractor end of the stabilizer pin is aligned with the drag link pin so raising or lowering will not cause any lateral movement of your implement.

I use it for hoggin' and i would use it for a tiller. I think the only attachment I don't use if for is plows (really ground engaging). Rear blade, snowblower, cultivator, hog, ditching bucket all use the stabilizer.

Cool. Guess I just have an extra one. Seems like I'm finding lots of "extra" in my old barn. Five years in and I'm still finding interesting odds and ends that might be useful. Becomes really hard to throw things away when you're not sure what they're for .

Incidentally, they're both painted blue, but my tractor is painted red. I wonder if they came off of a 2000-6000 series ford instead of my 801 series. Anyway, If I ever get this old ford running again (engine is in about 200 pieces right now and needs an overhaul) I'll definitely give the stabilizer arms a go.

Thanks!
Pete