Ford FORD4000 Reviews
1973 Ford 4000
Model Year: 1973
I am the proud owner of a 1973 Ford 4000 3-cycle diesel 4-speed transmission high and low range 2-wheel drive with loader. It sold new for around $4,500. Before I owned it. she was a manure loader at a feedlot where it was used and abused.I purchased it in 1992 to cut and bale hay on 25 acres. She had 1,500 hours on her and I don't know if hours were correct then, and now has around 5,500. It has been a real good tractor and has been used for everything from plowing, cutting, bailing and hauling hay to general farming to being a loader tractor to snow plowing. Now we use it for feeding 1,550-pound hay bales. We have replaced all tires, front spindles, bearings, and wheel hub bearings because of overloading loader. We did a starter rebuild and now it needs a water pump. She has been serviced regularly and has a few hydraulic oil leaks. I have owned John Deere, Massey, and other Fords; and by far I certainly would buy another Made In USA 4000 with a loader again. It is reliable, just the right size, and good tractor for the money. I paid $4,500 in 1992 and even now In 2018 she is still worth what I paid or maybe more. We must not forget these older tractors were made with genuine United States steel built by U.S.of A. companies and employees. We need to get back to our roots and build U.S quality again.
Pros: The right size for a small operation, dependable, economical, availability of parts
Cons: Needs glow plugs
Model Year: 1973
I am the proud owner of a 1973 Ford 4000 3-cycle diesel 4-speed transmission high and low range 2-wheel drive with loader. It sold new for around $4,500. Before I owned it. she was a manure loader at a feedlot where it was used and abused.I purchased it in 1992 to cut and bale hay on 25 acres. She had 1,500 hours on her and I don't know if hours were correct then, and now has around 5,500. It has been a real good tractor and has been used for everything from plowing, cutting, bailing and hauling hay to general farming to being a loader tractor to snow plowing. Now we use it for feeding 1,550-pound hay bales. We have replaced all tires, front spindles, bearings, and wheel hub bearings because of overloading loader. We did a starter rebuild and now it needs a water pump. She has been serviced regularly and has a few hydraulic oil leaks. I have owned John Deere, Massey, and other Fords; and by far I certainly would buy another Made In USA 4000 with a loader again. It is reliable, just the right size, and good tractor for the money. I paid $4,500 in 1992 and even now In 2018 she is still worth what I paid or maybe more. We must not forget these older tractors were made with genuine United States steel built by U.S.of A. companies and employees. We need to get back to our roots and build U.S quality again.
Pros: The right size for a small operation, dependable, economical, availability of parts
Cons: Needs glow plugs
Ford 4000 Selectomatic
Model Year: 1963
This is a very good American made tractor. I've done all kinds of work with it and it works like a champ! It is a good old tractor! It hauls and it digs
Pros: Very good tractor, can't kill it
Cons: None for what I use it for
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Model Year: 1963
This is a very good American made tractor. I've done all kinds of work with it and it works like a champ! It is a good old tractor! It hauls and it digs
Pros: Very good tractor, can't kill it
Cons: None for what I use it for
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Ford 4000
Model Year: 1965
I bought this tractor a few months ago as a replacement for a smaller 40 hp tractor. So far it has been very good and reliable, although I am not to keen on the slow hydraulics. It always starts first time even with below zero (Celsius) temperatures and pulls like a train. I would recommend this tractor to anyone who needs a little more power than the average ''small tractor''
Pros: Easy steering, bomb proof engine, easy starting, very good horsepower to weight ratio
Cons: Slow hydraulics, leaking
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Model Year: 1965
I bought this tractor a few months ago as a replacement for a smaller 40 hp tractor. So far it has been very good and reliable, although I am not to keen on the slow hydraulics. It always starts first time even with below zero (Celsius) temperatures and pulls like a train. I would recommend this tractor to anyone who needs a little more power than the average ''small tractor''
Pros: Easy steering, bomb proof engine, easy starting, very good horsepower to weight ratio
Cons: Slow hydraulics, leaking
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Recently Bought Ford 4000
Model Year: 1975
The tractor seems ideal as able to work on. Without having all the new tractor features which can cause loads of problems. When bought the tractor obviously although quite old and having some cosmetic problems, with a fuel or oil leak was otherwise running well. Have just started to dismantle over winter to repair any problems I can find.
Pros: Sturdy and easy to work on.
Cons: 2 wheel drive - maybe some would prefer 4 instead
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Model Year: 1975
The tractor seems ideal as able to work on. Without having all the new tractor features which can cause loads of problems. When bought the tractor obviously although quite old and having some cosmetic problems, with a fuel or oil leak was otherwise running well. Have just started to dismantle over winter to repair any problems I can find.
Pros: Sturdy and easy to work on.
Cons: 2 wheel drive - maybe some would prefer 4 instead
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Ford 4000 Diesel (4 cyc) 1963
Model Year: 1963
PROBLEM ...A nice tractor for what I use it for. Nothing heavy, just haul firewood on a trailer up to the house. It was doing fine till fuel filled crankcase. Repaired pump .Bleed new filter and injectors. Seems to still have air in system. Is there a way to bleed the pump before bleeding the injectors? Thanks in advance. JERRY
Pros: Very nice tractor for price ($3000 )lots of power. Even had 4 new tires. A Doc owned it.
Cons: None so far. It's all I need.
Model Year: 1963
PROBLEM ...A nice tractor for what I use it for. Nothing heavy, just haul firewood on a trailer up to the house. It was doing fine till fuel filled crankcase. Repaired pump .Bleed new filter and injectors. Seems to still have air in system. Is there a way to bleed the pump before bleeding the injectors? Thanks in advance. JERRY
Pros: Very nice tractor for price ($3000 )lots of power. Even had 4 new tires. A Doc owned it.
Cons: None so far. It's all I need.
Problem
Model Year: 1967
New to me tractor, worked well for 5 weeks. Last week I was shifting from forward to reverse after unloading bucket. Put down inching clutch and something let go. It appears to be out of gear, anyway it appears that the transmission is disconnected from the drive line. There was no noise when this happened. Any ideas?
Pros: Great shape for a 1967.
Cons: Don't run.
Model Year: 1967
New to me tractor, worked well for 5 weeks. Last week I was shifting from forward to reverse after unloading bucket. Put down inching clutch and something let go. It appears to be out of gear, anyway it appears that the transmission is disconnected from the drive line. There was no noise when this happened. Any ideas?
Pros: Great shape for a 1967.
Cons: Don't run.
Can't Kill It With Massive Neglect
Model Year: 1971
Just use to pull finish mower on 5 acres, leave uncovered, leaks a little oil, diesel water leaks into the tranny but it always starts and does its job. All my other toys with engines always fail requiring costly repairs.
Pros: Bulletproof.
Cons: None.
Model Year: 1971
Just use to pull finish mower on 5 acres, leave uncovered, leaks a little oil, diesel water leaks into the tranny but it always starts and does its job. All my other toys with engines always fail requiring costly repairs.
Pros: Bulletproof.
Cons: None.
A Good, Old Tractor
Model Year: 1969
I've had the tractor for four years now (no idea about hours because the meter has always been broken). It didn't appear to have been used too gently when I bought it, but it has proven to be a good tractor. Other than maintenance, a tune-up, and replacing the battery, the only work I've done is to replace the fuel shut-off valve and the o-ring on the sediment bowl. That's pretty darn good for 40+ year old tractor. One significant problem the tractor had when purchased which I've never fixed because it hasn't caused me any trouble is that the PTO shaft still spins even when disengaged. The operator's platform is a bit cramped, but otherwise the tractor has been great to own. It's a gas and has started right up any time I've needed it.
Pros: Affordable, powerful, good mid-sized tractor.
Cons: A bit cramped operator's platform.
Model Year: 1969
I've had the tractor for four years now (no idea about hours because the meter has always been broken). It didn't appear to have been used too gently when I bought it, but it has proven to be a good tractor. Other than maintenance, a tune-up, and replacing the battery, the only work I've done is to replace the fuel shut-off valve and the o-ring on the sediment bowl. That's pretty darn good for 40+ year old tractor. One significant problem the tractor had when purchased which I've never fixed because it hasn't caused me any trouble is that the PTO shaft still spins even when disengaged. The operator's platform is a bit cramped, but otherwise the tractor has been great to own. It's a gas and has started right up any time I've needed it.
Pros: Affordable, powerful, good mid-sized tractor.
Cons: A bit cramped operator's platform.
1953 Ford 4000 Row Crop Tractor
Model Year: 1953
This old girl has had a hard life. Hard to believe she's still going. This tractor has a Select-o-Speed automatic trans. Very interesting innovation by Ford, especially for 1950's. I'm not so sure it was a good application in a farm tractor.
Pros: Durability.
Cons: Hydraulic leaks, transmission problems.
Model Year: 1953
This old girl has had a hard life. Hard to believe she's still going. This tractor has a Select-o-Speed automatic trans. Very interesting innovation by Ford, especially for 1950's. I'm not so sure it was a good application in a farm tractor.
Pros: Durability.
Cons: Hydraulic leaks, transmission problems.
A Real Workhorse
Model Year: 1964
My brother-in-law and I with adjoining properties have co-owned a Ford 4000 diesel tractor for many years. We probably put 300-400 hours per year on it. It is excellent in most respects. We repaired a crack block a few years back (electrolysis), and we regularly have to replace the PTO external bearings, as the shaft pulls out about once per year. Don't know why, first time, we thought I was running too low rpms for the job. 2nd time, a hitch pun on the three-point came off, so that was easy to figure. Third time, we surmised our cutting job was just too much. Last year, who knows why? We have a one-ton front loader, but no rear-end hydraulics. The diesel power is sweet, and our Ford is tough!
Pros: Good tractor.
Cons: Old tractor.
Model Year: 1964
My brother-in-law and I with adjoining properties have co-owned a Ford 4000 diesel tractor for many years. We probably put 300-400 hours per year on it. It is excellent in most respects. We repaired a crack block a few years back (electrolysis), and we regularly have to replace the PTO external bearings, as the shaft pulls out about once per year. Don't know why, first time, we thought I was running too low rpms for the job. 2nd time, a hitch pun on the three-point came off, so that was easy to figure. Third time, we surmised our cutting job was just too much. Last year, who knows why? We have a one-ton front loader, but no rear-end hydraulics. The diesel power is sweet, and our Ford is tough!
Pros: Good tractor.
Cons: Old tractor.
Old But Stout and So Dependable
Model Year: 1967
I am the second owner and knew the original buyer well. Powerful and I use it (with front end loader) to clear our primitive land. It does the job and parts are still so easy to get.
Pros: Powerful, easy to get parts and repair, and so dependable.
Cons: No rear hydraulics and it weights approx 5,000 lbs.
Model Year: 1967
I am the second owner and knew the original buyer well. Powerful and I use it (with front end loader) to clear our primitive land. It does the job and parts are still so easy to get.
Pros: Powerful, easy to get parts and repair, and so dependable.
Cons: No rear hydraulics and it weights approx 5,000 lbs.
You Get What You Pay For
Model Year: 1966
Bought my used 4000 via private sale for under 4K CDN, dodgy tires, but it had a loader and remote and I needed something to run a 3pt hitch backhoe. It looked like it had been split, most wiring was disconnected, steering wheel was loose, etc., but the current owner didn't know why. It had good compression, started well, had a bit of a grinding noise in rear, but as I wasn't doing field work with no concern. Changed the oil and put some Lucas oil conditioner in it for the drive home 40+mins, no issues except it popped out of gear in high range on down hills, terrifying the first time in traffic, mercifully the brakes worked. Used it as is for a year without a problem, very slow hydraulics, as advertised, but the loader worked well. I drained and replaced the hyd oil (hy-trans) but it needed very little maintenance. Felt it was a keeper so I invested 2K+ on tires (18.9 28 rear and a good set of 8 ply 3 ribs on the front). This summer, I fired it up to boost a combine and the engine started to make a severe knock like a piston wasn't firing. Shut it down started it again same thing. Checked the injectors, all getting fuel, called my guy. Turns out a valve seat had popped out and I needed an engine job. I parked it until the winter and had our local tractor mechanic work on it as a winter project. Did a complete engine rebuild and found out that the clutch had been replaced (reason for tractor being split we assumed). Took the time to replace all the wiring myself (most had been fried, looks like a mouse behind the instrument cluster had chewed a wire and shorted it). As well, took the tin work off and repainted it. Too bad I hadn't the opportunity to repaint the loader, as it looked good until it went back on (bit of a dress on a donkey). At the end of the day my initial 3.5K investment, plus 2.5K for tires and 3K for the engine job plus all the bits and pieces I put on it makes it almost a 10K tractor, wondering if I shouldn't have spent 10K in the first place, but as my neighbor said, you know what you have now and you could have just as easily spent 10 and still had to do an engine job.
Pros: Reliability.
Cons: Slow hydraulics.
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Model Year: 1966
Bought my used 4000 via private sale for under 4K CDN, dodgy tires, but it had a loader and remote and I needed something to run a 3pt hitch backhoe. It looked like it had been split, most wiring was disconnected, steering wheel was loose, etc., but the current owner didn't know why. It had good compression, started well, had a bit of a grinding noise in rear, but as I wasn't doing field work with no concern. Changed the oil and put some Lucas oil conditioner in it for the drive home 40+mins, no issues except it popped out of gear in high range on down hills, terrifying the first time in traffic, mercifully the brakes worked. Used it as is for a year without a problem, very slow hydraulics, as advertised, but the loader worked well. I drained and replaced the hyd oil (hy-trans) but it needed very little maintenance. Felt it was a keeper so I invested 2K+ on tires (18.9 28 rear and a good set of 8 ply 3 ribs on the front). This summer, I fired it up to boost a combine and the engine started to make a severe knock like a piston wasn't firing. Shut it down started it again same thing. Checked the injectors, all getting fuel, called my guy. Turns out a valve seat had popped out and I needed an engine job. I parked it until the winter and had our local tractor mechanic work on it as a winter project. Did a complete engine rebuild and found out that the clutch had been replaced (reason for tractor being split we assumed). Took the time to replace all the wiring myself (most had been fried, looks like a mouse behind the instrument cluster had chewed a wire and shorted it). As well, took the tin work off and repainted it. Too bad I hadn't the opportunity to repaint the loader, as it looked good until it went back on (bit of a dress on a donkey). At the end of the day my initial 3.5K investment, plus 2.5K for tires and 3K for the engine job plus all the bits and pieces I put on it makes it almost a 10K tractor, wondering if I shouldn't have spent 10K in the first place, but as my neighbor said, you know what you have now and you could have just as easily spent 10 and still had to do an engine job.
Pros: Reliability.
Cons: Slow hydraulics.
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Bought at Auction
Model Year: 1967
I bought this tractor at an area auction last fall. it has been a good tractor so far. I had to replace the PTO seal in the rear of the tractor due to a snap ring breaking off the PTO shaft and letting the shaft work its way out and get into the seal and tear it. Other than that, I like the tractor.
Pros: Dependabe and built very well.
Cons: For the age of the tractor, I can't really think of any..
Model Year: 1967
I bought this tractor at an area auction last fall. it has been a good tractor so far. I had to replace the PTO seal in the rear of the tractor due to a snap ring breaking off the PTO shaft and letting the shaft work its way out and get into the seal and tear it. Other than that, I like the tractor.
Pros: Dependabe and built very well.
Cons: For the age of the tractor, I can't really think of any..
Ford 4000 Diesel
Model Year: 1970
Good solid US built utility tractor that I use for about everything. Maintenance is easy and straight forward. Has what I think is called a 'distributor' type fuel pump which you'll probably only run out of fuel once. They don't bleed as easily as 'in-line' pumps do. If I had to get down to only one tractor, this would be it.
Pros: Size and versitility.
Cons: Fuel pump hard to bleed, fuel filter fine.
Model Year: 1970
Good solid US built utility tractor that I use for about everything. Maintenance is easy and straight forward. Has what I think is called a 'distributor' type fuel pump which you'll probably only run out of fuel once. They don't bleed as easily as 'in-line' pumps do. If I had to get down to only one tractor, this would be it.
Pros: Size and versitility.
Cons: Fuel pump hard to bleed, fuel filter fine.
Best Old Tractor
Model Year: 1970
I purchased a 1070 Ford 4000 in 2001. A small contractor had it and a tree had fallen on it so it had no fenders and a large dent right behind the gauge cluster. It was the best 4500$ I ever spent. I split the tractor 3 yr later and rebuilt the engine myself. I always wanted to do that. I fixed all the things that had been neglected on this tractor, I added a front loader and now wonder how I ever got anything done without it. I burn wood for heat and with out this tractor I would have double the work. I don't see many of these at the tractor shows because they are all still working on the farm.
Pros: Big enough to do the work I need; Small enough to trailer it somewhere else if needed.
Cons: Shifting; Those now hydraulic transmissions are nice.
Model Year: 1970
I purchased a 1070 Ford 4000 in 2001. A small contractor had it and a tree had fallen on it so it had no fenders and a large dent right behind the gauge cluster. It was the best 4500$ I ever spent. I split the tractor 3 yr later and rebuilt the engine myself. I always wanted to do that. I fixed all the things that had been neglected on this tractor, I added a front loader and now wonder how I ever got anything done without it. I burn wood for heat and with out this tractor I would have double the work. I don't see many of these at the tractor shows because they are all still working on the farm.
Pros: Big enough to do the work I need; Small enough to trailer it somewhere else if needed.
Cons: Shifting; Those now hydraulic transmissions are nice.
An example of how a tractor should be built.
Model Year: 1964
I bought this tractor with a FEL for only $3000.00 back in 1992. I bushhogged and cleaned up with it mostly and cut down saplings that actually raised up the front end a little when I ran over them. I mean I was abusive with this tractor and it ran on with no complaints. Before I sold it a few years back, it was beginning to smoke just a little. However, I estimated that it had to have a least 3600 hard hours on it. The hour meter was broke when I bought it at 2900 hours so this is just an estimate and, probably a conservative one at that. This was one great tractor that was small enough to get in tight areas but large enough to do some serious work.
Pros: A durable, dependable, and strong tractor - and they look good too when they are fixed up. I wish Ford still made tractors and made them with quality of this one. Good work Ford.
Cons: Today, if you were to buy one, you might have some trouble getting parts due to age. I would research that before purchase.
Model Year: 1964
I bought this tractor with a FEL for only $3000.00 back in 1992. I bushhogged and cleaned up with it mostly and cut down saplings that actually raised up the front end a little when I ran over them. I mean I was abusive with this tractor and it ran on with no complaints. Before I sold it a few years back, it was beginning to smoke just a little. However, I estimated that it had to have a least 3600 hard hours on it. The hour meter was broke when I bought it at 2900 hours so this is just an estimate and, probably a conservative one at that. This was one great tractor that was small enough to get in tight areas but large enough to do some serious work.
Pros: A durable, dependable, and strong tractor - and they look good too when they are fixed up. I wish Ford still made tractors and made them with quality of this one. Good work Ford.
Cons: Today, if you were to buy one, you might have some trouble getting parts due to age. I would research that before purchase.