Fired up my 1620 the other day and proceeded to blow a 2ft diameter oil puddle out from the crankcase breather tube. I quickly shut it off as soon as I noticed it, pulled the dipstick and it was ALL the way full with the odor of raw diesel. I ran the tractor less than 2 weeks ago and the oil level was perfect so I know it happened sitting since. In order for fuel to gravity drain into the crankcase, there's only a handful of o-rings that can let that happen. Downside is the 9 o-rings are $85 :shocked:. Let's tear in!
After removing the injection lines, you need the pull the two bolts that hold each pumping element in the pump housing. While I'm sure the specialty socket exists, the air hammer with a sharp chisel did the trick to break them free. They are just normal 8mmx1.25 metric bolts easily replaced.
Before pulling the elements out, their EXACT location needs to be marked/measured. The barrels are turned slightly to balance the pump delivery when run on a bench. I used a dremel with a very small burr bit to mark the plate to the pump housing and also measured from the edge of the casting to the edge of each cylinder's plate with calipers to double mark things. A gentle tap with a slide hammer popped the barrels out.
Here's the o-rings that can let fuel seep into the crankcase
All pulled apart and cleaned
Disgustingly overpriced o-rings that were actually in stock at the dealer
All back together
Lube the o rings and GENTLY wiggle the elements back in. Line up your marks and double check measurements.
After lots of cranking to bleed everything out, she's purring like a kitten again!
After removing the injection lines, you need the pull the two bolts that hold each pumping element in the pump housing. While I'm sure the specialty socket exists, the air hammer with a sharp chisel did the trick to break them free. They are just normal 8mmx1.25 metric bolts easily replaced.
Before pulling the elements out, their EXACT location needs to be marked/measured. The barrels are turned slightly to balance the pump delivery when run on a bench. I used a dremel with a very small burr bit to mark the plate to the pump housing and also measured from the edge of the casting to the edge of each cylinder's plate with calipers to double mark things. A gentle tap with a slide hammer popped the barrels out.
Here's the o-rings that can let fuel seep into the crankcase
All pulled apart and cleaned
Disgustingly overpriced o-rings that were actually in stock at the dealer
All back together
Lube the o rings and GENTLY wiggle the elements back in. Line up your marks and double check measurements.
After lots of cranking to bleed everything out, she's purring like a kitten again!
