Loader Zerk -- err is it full?

[RadarTech]

Ok.. I have to admit, when I greased the loaded last weekend it just would not go into the lower right hand pin on the loader...

so after checking the grease gun, removing the zerk, testing that, swapping the fitting with the one above it, and pushing grease thru it I am confounded...

My next step is to remove the pin altogather and see what the issue is...

BUT I wonder has anyone had this problem before?

when the grease is applied, it just comes out right there at the zerk...

UGGG....

does this make sense?

ideas?



thanks,
J

 

[BXinNH]

Did you try raising/lowering the loader? Sometimes changing the way the pin is loaded will allow grease to flow more easily.

Matt.

 

[RadarTech]

yea--- I raised it, dumped it, tilted back and tried 4 or 5 different angles..

No joy..

I am down to the remove and inspect but I am sure someone has another idea..

I will go try it again... I did do 3 hours of heavy loader work today..
when I greased it last week, it had been sitting for 2 weeks...DANG-- I missed that 10 hour grease schedule alot--- (see the thread on that :laughing: )
maybe---- it will work now..



J

 

[RadarTech]

I should add this is on an LA463 (L3400) 275 hours..


J

 

[gwdixon]

Try taking all of the weight off of the problem pin. Put it in "float" and let it settle on a log or something similar.

Taking out the Zerk and see if grease will pump through it will verify that it is clear or at least not damaged. It wasn't mentioned how it was tested in the original post.

With the Zerk removed have you cleaned out as much of the old grease as possible with a thin screwdriver? That should allow some grease in and may compress the air space enough to force some of the old grease out.

Obviously the pin is free to move in the socket so a frozen pin shouldn't be an issue - especially since you grease often enough.

 

[Tractor Factor]

275 hours and this is the first time you've ever had trouble with it? Just for the heck of it, how about raising the front wheels with the loader and try greasing it that way?

 

[kuboman]

This is a common problem. It might have sealed off below the zerk which requires you to clean the crud out. It may require pulling the pin. I have also found on some situations the the zerk is long enough that it will bottom against the pin thus preventing any grease getting through.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

I had one do that on the motor home. Finally with it off I got it to block the grease once so I then knew it was the problem. I swapped one from a more accessible place and finished up the grease job. The next day I bought a pack and replaced the funky one.

That was the first time I saw that in the 50 years I have been using a grease gun.

 

[dcyrilc]

I had one today that took me about 10 minutes to find a position where the pin would let the grease in. Top back pin on the loader arms. Finally got it to take grease by putting the bucket at about a 45 degree down angle and lifting the front wheels slightly. This is, of course, after having to pull and clean the zerk so that grease would even go through it.

I have a tool which looks like a dental pick which works well for cleaning out zerks or the hole to the pin when the zerk is removed.

 

[CurlyDave]

Heat is your friend.

Don't overdo it, but I would try heating the end of the pin and body of the bearing around it, keeping away from the zerk, which had already been cleaned and demonstrated to pass grease.

A few minutes with a propane torch may get the old grease runny enough to be easily displaced by fresh. Then grease it again after it cools down.

 

[poldies4]

Guess I got lucky. My first greasing of my BX everything was going great until I got to the top pin on the hydraulic lever side. Everything else had been greased prior to delivery, except that one zerk. It was clean with no grease at all. As I started to put pressure on the grease gun I noticed no grease was coming out. After another pump of the handle a popping sound, almost like a really small cap. A little dust popped out of the area and then the grease flowed fine. I guess I better go grease them up again.

 

[allenr]

Heat is your friend.

Don't overdo it, but I would try heating the end of the pin and body of the bearing around it, keeping away from the zerk, which had already been cleaned and demonstrated to pass grease.

A few minutes with a propane torch may get the old grease runny enough to be easily displaced by fresh. Then grease it again after it cools down.

Yes - but it's not a friend to the paint.

 

[Grateful11]

Heck the first time I greased our LA724 loader one Zerk came out with the grease gun.
I was like oh man WT? I looked at the Zerk and at first thought it was threaded
1/4"-28 but it was actually a drive-in type, found out by putting a fingernail in the what
looks like a thread and turned it and my finger nail never moved. Another clue that it
was a drive-in type was no hex on the Zerk. I it put back in the hole and it fill in, again
I'm like WT. So I have quite an assortment of Zerks/Alamites and found a new drive
in and it fit fine. I didn't check to see if they're all like this, no hex. I'm wondering if
the thread wasn't messed up before and they just tried to get away with a drive-in Zerk.
Usually once one drive-in type falls out that's it you're not going to get another one
to stay, just I lucked out. I hate drive-in types, they usually wear out before the pin and
are a bear to deal with. If I have any more trouble I'll remove the pin and redrill it for
pipe thread Zerk.

 

[eepete]

CurlyDave, allenr:

What about a heat gun? You could warm things up to 300 degrees or so and not damage the paint? Also avoids problem of propane torch setting grease on fire.

I guess my question is "What temp are you trying to heat things up to?"

Pete

 

[oldballs]

I've been wanting to ask this for some time. Are these zerks tapped with metric dimensions? I tried to replace a difficult fitting on my MMM "self balancing" joint and it wouldn't take any of my SAE stock. The "bottoming out" of a zerk is a new idea that may be my solution. Thanks y'all.

 

[CurlyDave]

I think a heat gun would work just fine. But, I have seen some heat guns which are made for stripping paint so you still need to be careful.

I have a couple of temperature crayons in the back of my tool case that I use to determine when I have heated something enough to destroy locktite but not high enough to remove the temper of steel.

If I had this problem I might be willing to invest in a 200 degree F one and just heat up the bearing until that one melted.

For oldballs: zerks are made in both SAE and metric dimensions. Harbor Freight sells kits with many different sizes and styles in both for about $5.00 each. I bought one kit in each type and have never had a problem with not having the correct replacement in the past few years, well worth the expense.

 

[oldballs]

Thanks, Dave. I'll swear, I'll never get there. Every time I work on something, there's another (bigger) metric socket/wrench or tiny zerk to buy. If I live another 77 years, maybe I'll have it all by then.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

oldballs if you are like me as soon as you get them all you will loose one.

 

[RadarTech]

Great info folks....

No I just gotta get out there and try em all...

Hopefully tonight!

I'll let you know what I find!



Jim

 

[BeezFun]

I bought one of these and filled it with WD-40. I've used it a few times to blast through clogged fittings.