Your last generator Maintenance Run

[Rustyiron]

I'd say you've put that end-of-line problem down, hard :thumbsup:

Just a pup, at those hours. Shed - got that tiny-house, craftsman vibe real heavy..... well done.

By what you've chosen, I'd be surprised if you don't know diesels well...... so pls ignore my preaching to the choir...... just be sure to throw a decent load on it, now and then.

Other than that..... allowing for minor oil/filter work........ it should be running @ New Years 2100.

Rgds, D.

Thanks, I need to get into a regular "exercise" routine for it and did NOT consider putting it under load. Do you feel that is better? I didn't want to spend the money for all the automatic stuff (exercising, automatic transfer switch, etc) and parts you don't have don't break and require no service, after all this is all about reliability. I'll plug in a battery tender on it and it has a coolant heater on a t-stat. I was thinking once a month or maybe every other week. I'm all ears for suggestions. :thumbsup:

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Lots of capable generators at hand, ready-to-go..... sure way to get the utility back up fast .

Rgds, D.

I use to wonder why it bugged my dad so much when the power would go out, now as I get older it bugs me more too! lol

SR

 

[Chilliwack Murray]

Thanks, I need to get into a regular "exercise" routine for it and did NOT consider putting it under load. Do you feel that is better? I didn't want to spend the money for all the automatic stuff (exercising, automatic transfer switch, etc) and parts you don't have don't break and require no service, after all this is all about reliability. I'll plug in a battery tender on it and it has a coolant heater on a t-stat. I was thinking once a month or maybe every other week. I'm all ears for suggestions. :thumbsup:

You don’t need to run more than once a month. Make sure you have at least 25-30% load and have the coolant heater on before you start it. 240V construction heaters make excellent loadbanks, I used them extensively for testing mountain top units requiring helicopter access.

You only need to run 15-30 minutes, until oil and coolant temperatures have stabilized.

Just a couple things to watch on your installation, inlet air area should be 1.5x the radiator surface area and be sure your exhaust thimble is built to standards. It doesn’t matter the engine size, at high load levels the exhaust stream can reach 1100 degrees f and non exposed pipe (where it passes through a wall) can reach 800 degrees. I’ve seen dozens of exhaust fires over the years both in residential and the biggest and most high profile installations.

You can find everything there is to know about installing generators correctly by searching for the ‘Cummins T-030’ installation manual. There are bootleg copies everywhere and you can get it from the public Cummins Power Gen site.

 

[3930dave]

Thanks, I need to get into a regular "exercise" routine for it and did NOT consider putting it under load. Do you feel that is better? I didn't want to spend the money for all the automatic stuff (exercising, automatic transfer switch, etc) and parts you don't have don't break and require no service, after all this is all about reliability. I'll plug in a battery tender on it and it has a coolant heater on a t-stat. I was thinking once a month or maybe every other week. I'm all ears for suggestions. :thumbsup:

What CM said. He's been doing diesel gens pro, for a long time. (That Cummins doc - thanks CM, that will definitely get added to my Tech Ref stash).

The load issue can be deceptively sneaky. Epic posts on here (just covering for my lousy memory.... can't remember how far back it was), 90Cummins listed what he did to rebuild a smaller (than your's) diesel for somebody - they put it through lengthy runs in extended outages, with very little load on it.

In Cold Country, you may have seen an example with cars/trucks that have exclusively been short-tripped in Winter. You can get what I call the Mocha Milkshake (oil/water goo mix) showing up under the Oil fill cap. IMO, Winter conditions of high-humidity combined with extreme temperature swings are really tough on most equipment - that condensation pervades everything......

There have been a few examples posted in this thread of various load banks (including a high end MilSurp one) people have come up with, but basically whatever 220v resistive heating elements you can scrounge and wire up safely will do the trick......

Semi-outdoor Covid Sauna ? You can get creative :thumbsup:

Rgds, D.

 

[coldsteelva]

Electrically fired tankless water heater feeding radiant heating loops around the house and under the driveway - no more shoveling and a good workout for the genny.

 

[Rustyiron]

Glad that I posted here and you 2 "stopped by ":thumbsup:
My little 2" exhaust pipe goes through a 4" hole in the wood siding and I thought that would be fine??? Running with no load I couldn't find anything hotter than around 165f, and I wouldn't be loading it heavily unless I'm welding and the well and air compressor and a few other things running. I'll check that Cummins T-030 install guide. I hope I have enough airflow with the 2 opposite openings without ducting the air that's pushed through the radiator. I'd like to run with only them open, but there's always the overhead door. I'll monitor the water temperature gauge.
Gotta go now, put a brisket in the smoker earlier. Got to check that temp.

 

[daugen]

Electrically fired tankless water heater feeding radiant heating loops around the house and under the driveway - no more shoveling and a good workout for the genny.

oh my that sounds nice...:thumbsup:

 

[daugen]

very pleased that electrician's proposal for installing exterior receptacle and interior mods to allow for 50amp gen hookup came in reasonably.
I think he may be short a few breakers, but perhaps the idea is only turn off the high demand circuits and allow the rest on.
Panel is only 100 amp anyway.
Well pump and oil burner both 120V. Well jet pump is old and flickers lights when it comes on. Wonder if a soft start would help there?
this will run everything but electric hot water heater, which has separate meter, too complicated/expensive to include that plus it is a big user.
If I need a hot shower, my brother lives ten minutes away and he has a whole house gen. :thumbsup:

Interlock Kit and 50 Amp Inlet and Cord for Portable Generator
1 100 Amp Square D Interlock Kit
1 50 Amp Inlet/Wire
15ft SO Cord w/50 Amp Cord Caps
1 Square D DP 50 Amp Breaker
2 Square D Twin Breakers
Labor
TOTAL $ 825.00

 

[LouNY]

Good luck with the generator prep Drew it doesn't seem unreasonable,
your neighbors should be jumping for joy,
with you doing this there should be no outages for a couple of years :thumbsup:

 

[3930dave]

very pleased that electrician's proposal for installing exterior receptacle and interior mods to allow for 50amp gen hookup came in reasonably.
I think he may be short a few breakers, but perhaps the idea is only turn off the high demand circuits and allow the rest on.
Panel is only 100 amp anyway.
Well pump and oil burner both 120V. Well jet pump is old and flickers lights when it comes on. Wonder if a soft start would help there?
this will run everything but electric hot water heater, which has separate meter, too complicated/expensive to include that plus it is a big user.
If I need a hot shower, my brother lives ten minutes away and he has a whole house gen. :thumbsup:

Interlock Kit and 50 Amp Inlet and Cord for Portable Generator
1 100 Amp Square D Interlock Kit
1 50 Amp Inlet/Wire
15ft SO Cord w/50 Amp Cord Caps
1 Square D DP 50 Amp Breaker
2 Square D Twin Breakers
Labor
TOTAL $ 825.00

I don't know rates down your way, but that doesn't seem too bad.

Older panels..... time.....lots of load cycles...... I like to check all the connection screws in the panel to make sure they are still snug. Maybe your guy normally does that, but if not, add that to the job.....

Sounds like you'll be all set soon :thumbsup:.

Rgds, D.