YM2610 parked - no start - no power with key and clutch for light on gauges

[bmaverick]

Well, I knew something had to go in time. I've been using the machine for much of the Summer and now Fall with the key to off while running it. The electrical will not charge the battery.

The alternator puffed a tad bit of smoke. The CHG lamp sometimes glows a dim light and others times nothing, even with a fully charge battery.

In the Service Manual for the YM2500/YM2610, this page is helpful. But not now as it's dark outside and cold. brrrr. In the late morning maybe.


Yes, I need to get the alternator tested. Was waiting to land a job to get replacement parts. It might happen in the early next year. bummer.

 

[rScotty]

Does the 2610 use the electrical system for anything important other than starting?

On the US models of roughly the same vintage as your 2610 you can replace the tractor battery with a small automotive battery or just jump from one. After the tractor starts just disconnect one pole of the tractor battery, and run all day. Doing that won't hurt a thing on the tractor. A good small automotive battery will do that everyday for a month no problem. Even longer if it gets an overnight charge every few weeks.
It could run that way for years.
rScotty

Group Size LxWxH (inches) LxWxH (cm)
Group 24 Batteries 10.25 x 6.8125 x 8.875 26 x 17.3 x 22.5
Group 27 Batteries 12.0625 x 6.8125 x 8.875 30.6 x 17.3 x 22.5
Group 31 Batteries 13 x 6.8125 x 9.4375 33 x 17.3 x 24
Group 34 Batteries 10.25 x 6.8125 x 7.875 26 x 17.3 x 20
Group 35 Batteries 9.0625 x 6.875 x 8.875 23 x 17.5 x 22.5
Group 51 and 51R Batteries 9.374 x 5.0625 x 8.8125 23.8 x 12.9 x 22.3
Group 65 Batteries 12.0625 x 7.5 x 7.5625 30.6 x 19 x 19.2
Group 78 Batteries 10.25 x 7.0625 x 7.6875 26 x 17.9 x 19.6

 

[bmaverick]

Does the 2610 use the electrical system for anything important other than starting?

On the US models of roughly the same vintage as your 2610 you can replace the tractor battery with a small automotive battery or just jump from one. After the tractor starts just disconnect one pole of the tractor battery, and run all day. Doing that won't hurt a thing on the tractor. A good small automotive battery will do that everyday for a month no problem. Even longer if it gets an overnight charge every few weeks.
It could run that way for years.
rScotty

Group Size LxWxH (inches) LxWxH (cm)
Group 24 Batteries 10.25 x 6.8125 x 8.875 26 x 17.3 x 22.5
Group 27 Batteries 12.0625 x 6.8125 x 8.875 30.6 x 17.3 x 22.5
Group 31 Batteries 13 x 6.8125 x 9.4375 33 x 17.3 x 24
Group 34 Batteries 10.25 x 6.8125 x 7.875 26 x 17.3 x 20
Group 35 Batteries 9.0625 x 6.875 x 8.875 23 x 17.5 x 22.5
Group 51 and 51R Batteries 9.374 x 5.0625 x 8.8125 23.8 x 12.9 x 22.3
Group 65 Batteries 12.0625 x 7.5 x 7.5625 30.6 x 19 x 19.2
Group 78 Batteries 10.25 x 7.0625 x 7.6875 26 x 17.9 x 19.6

Yes, That's how I've been running all summer long.

I've swapped the Group-27 and Group-31 batteries too all summer long as well. Charge one up to use while the other was in the tractor.

The bummer now is, when turning the key, the CHG light is either dimmed with no starter function or completely out with no starter function.

Spent the day cleaning the garage and moved stuff around. Temps were 45F and then dropped to 33F by 11am. Just got the YM2610 in the garage by 2pm. A little wet, but she's been drying otherwise. We are to have 5 to 7 inches of that white 4-letter word showing up. Now I can't even plow.

With the recently release of the YM2610 parts manual on the GroupsIO Yanmar site, I got the English schematics.
Additionally, the JD850/950/1050 Technical Manual TM1192 should help greatly with the electrical trouble shooting too.

But with all things, even with the documentation, gremlins are hard to catch. It's the reason why I made the post here. :dance1:

 

[winston1]

"The bummer now is, when turning the key, the CHG light is either dimmed with no starter function or completely out with no starter function."

Probably already have taken your ground cable loose at frame and cleaned real good. If not, might try it. Won't help the charge problem but if battery is good it might help the crank problem.

 

[CoyPatton]

"The bummer now is, when turning the key, the CHG light is either dimmed with no starter function or completely out with no starter function."

Probably already have taken your ground cable loose at frame and cleaned real good. If not, might try it. Won't help the charge problem but if battery is good it might help the crank problem.

I tend to agree that there is an issue with charging the battery likely either the regulator or dyno.
Then a separate issue with the starting process. Either a low charge battery or bad battery or a cable connection issue. The connection issue could be a bad connection on any spot from the battery post, ground point, connection from battery to starter, or battery supply to ignition switch or the energize wire to the starter solenoid, or even internal to the ignition switch.
Once you have checked the battery for being bad or low charge, and cleaned the ground contact to the frame, ensured good connection to the battery of the clamps and still have no start, ensure the tractor is in neutral, then jump from the battery cable on the starter to the energize post on the solenoid. If still no turn over, them you likely have a bad battery cable. It is rare but I have seen one that carries voltage but not amps to turn the starter.

 

[bmaverick]

"The bummer now is, when turning the key, the CHG light is either dimmed with no starter function or completely out with no starter function."

Probably already have taken your ground cable loose at frame and cleaned real good. If not, might try it. Won't help the charge problem but if battery is good it might help the crank problem.

I tend to agree that there is an issue .... or a cable connection issue. The connection issue could be a bad connection on any spot from the battery post, ground point, connection from battery to starter,

Both of you are right. 20mins in the garage traced it to the ground on the starter mounting post. I would never guess grim would build up under that boot. Additionally, took some advice to tap the solenoid with a screwdriver handle. YM2610 then fired right up.

Oh, about that SMOKE issue. That puff actually came out of a weep hole for the thermostart. Never knew it was there. The hole looks like a missing bolt location on the intake manifold. Playing with the key to get the CHG lamp to stay on to start may have gotten the thermostart activated turn the key a bit left.

So, at the end of the 20mins, I played with the thermostart.

 

[bmaverick]

On a related note, DW asked how long will I keep the Yanmar in the garage. :tractor:

I told here when I get it all fixed up. :drink:

She's clueless. :thumbsup:

 

[bmaverick]

Both of you are right. 20mins in the garage traced it to the ground on the starter mounting post. I would never guess grim would build up under that boot. Additionally, took some advice to tap the solenoid with a screwdriver handle. YM2610 then fired right up.

Oh, about that SMOKE issue. That puff actually came out of a weep hole for the thermostart. Never knew it was there. The hole looks like a missing bolt location on the intake manifold. Playing with the key to get the CHG lamp to stay on to start may have gotten the thermostart activated turn the key a bit left.

So, at the end of the 20mins, I played with the thermostart.

Here's that smoke weep hole after the thermostart is activated. Little puffs of oderless smoke comes out that hole.

 

[winston1]

Curious about that weep hole. Hoping it is tiny or it would seem to me dust would be sucked right into the manifold. :confused3:

 

[bmaverick]

Curious about that weep hole. Hoping it is tiny or it would seem to me dust would be sucked right into the manifold. :confused3:

I could fit an M8 threaded bolt in that hole. If it wasn't so cold, 17F today, I would poke around to see how all that works and if the hole indeed went to the intake manifold directly or in the TS igniter chamber. I'm just as curious too.