YM2010 Electrical Help

[ufengineer]

My dynamo wasn't charging my battery. The dynamo tested out okay. It was producing 16.8 volts AC at around 1000rpm. I tested the regulator and it tested bad. I replaced the regulator and still the system isn't charging. I started the tractor, removed the positive lead from the battery and checked the voltage (wont do this again). I got no reading. I noticed that the two wires coming from the dynamo were getting warm/hot. Do I have a short somewhere.

Any ideas where to start? I removed the wire wrap from the wiring harness in the engine compartment which was pretty easy to do because it was very brittle. The wiring looks fine. I removed the dash and started inspecting the wiring there but ran out of daylight.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

 

[winston1]

Don't know I can be of much help. Do you have a wiring diagram? The two wires out of the dynamo go straight to the regulator. Thinking they are blue. Also thinking the black wire on regulator is ground. Thinking maybe two reds coming out of regulator that should be showing 13+dc when running. Thinking the green/yellow goes to the charge light. Giving these colors out of a 226 parts manual but thinking yours may be the same.

Are you showing any dc voltage at your regulator. I believe one of the red wires should be showing battery voltage running or not.

 

[ufengineer]

Thanks Winston. I have a wiring diagram. I need to check the voltage at the regulator next.

 

[ufengineer]

I checked the regulator. With the engine off and the key in the on position I'm getting 12.6 volts from the yellow, green and red wire. The black ground also has conductivity.

 

[winston1]

You checked the dynamo for voltage and made mention of the wires getting warm/hot. Did you check the voltage at the dynamo or where the wires enter the regulator? Maybe something going on between the dynamo and regulator? :confused3:

 

[ufengineer]

Referencing the attached, the problem would have to be in the red wire going from the regulator to the starter/battery. But, does the charge go through the ignition switch or straight to the starter???

 

[normde2001]

It goes straight to starter (red to B), and straight to switch, (white/red to 30). Effectively goes through starter B to switch 30.

 

[ufengineer]

So to check the charge line I would check the conductivity of the red wire coming off the regulator to the starter?

Would a short anywhere else disable the charging circuit? I don't think so. Would a short in the ignition switch disable the charge circuit? I removed the dashboard and the gauges. I should be able to start the tractor and check the charge circuit. Or, does the dash and gauges need to be connected?

 

[winston1]

Probably have checked but I will ask again. Did you check the dynamo wires where they enter the regulator making sure the ac voltage is reaching the regulator. If it is and no charge I would start suspecting the regulator.

 

[ufengineer]

Winston, I'll check that. I just replaced the regulator.

 

[winston1]

Winston, I'll check that. I just replaced the regulator.

Yes, I understand, I replaced 2 of them on my old 2002D before changing to an alternator.

 

[ufengineer]

Okay. I'll check that too.

 

[normde2001]

I get from your posts that the overheating wires started after you replaced the regulator. either the new regulator is shorted or it is wired incorrectly. I would put the original reg back in and start from the beginning.

 

[ufengineer]

I never noticed the warm wires with the original regulator.

 

[ufengineer]

The original regulator tested out as if it was bad according to the shop manual.

 

[ufengineer]

Thanks everybody. There was a short in one of the plugs. I'm getting 13.8 volts at the battery now. Pissed at the guy that I purchased the tractor from for removing the bulb to hide the issue. Jack ***.

 

[winston1]

Glad you are up and running. Was the original regulator bad?

 

[ufengineer]

Winston
The original regulator is good. The issue was the plug all along. It looks to be the original regulator. I used the test procedure in the shop manual and it tested bad. I tested the new regulator and it tested bad too. I think the procedure is flawed. ; )

 

[prs]

If there was a "short" in the plug, what was it shorted to. Or did you mean a bad connection. I have gone through several of these damned regulators and now I just leave it disconnected and use a deep cycle battery and charge it occasionally. The alternator mod seems like the best solution. Any one have a good source for parts to make that happen?

prs

 

[winston1]

Winston
The original regulator is good. The issue was the plug all along. It looks to be the original regulator. I used the test procedure in the shop manual and it tested bad. I tested the new regulator and it tested bad too. I think the procedure is flawed. ; )

I too had trouble with that test being conclusive.