YM2000 Brake Help...Again

[clemsonfor]

Ok so about a year ago some of you might remember me getting the brake cam unstuck. Well that was a success and I put it all back together and sometime in the first few uses something happened and I had no brake on that side. SO I took it all back apart this spring and checked it , all looked fine. I put it all back togeather and I had brake again. I adjusted the petal so that they were even and braking . Well this weekend was the first use of the tractor since that fix (well extended use) . After a few hours I noticed that brake petal was going a good bit further down to get the stopping power. I stopped and tried to adjust the brake more but its getting close to the end of the adjustment.

I remember about adjusting the brake upper mount to a different position. I think this is what I have to do just don't remember if mine moved? I haven't looked in my 240 shop manual yet, I need to try and find in tonight, to see if they list the procedure.

Help me out here guys. I am pretty sure I have heard California reference it before?

I attached a picture of the brake assembly (from the stuck cam job)for help in referencing the parts.

 

[normde2001]

Not sure what you are asking. What do you mean by "brake upper mount"? The problem should be obvious with inspection.

 

[clemsonfor]

There is a way to move that mount isn't there to push the shoes farther out so less adjustment is needed on the adjusting rod. I am basically almost out of adjustment. So why was it tight for a while and then loose?

Its like either the cam or the top lobe can be pivoted 90 degrees to push the shoes outward so that I can back off the adjusting rod some so that I can get a petal near the top of the travel. I need to pull it back apart and look at it again.

Norm have you been in the brakes before?

 

[kenmac]

there is a cam like where those screws are that is what you need to rotate to push the shoes out..I had my shoes re linned a few yrs ago.. You need to use my glass bead blasting machine on rust.. see why it's rusting like that ,, water getting in ,etc

 

[normde2001]

BRAKES: Yanmar Tractor Parts

No, but I know you can swap the #9 cam and the anchor pin, #10, side to side as well as reversing shoes end for end to get all new working surfaces. No clue why it is changing, as you say.

 

[California]

No idea why it's losing adjustment.

In 2003 when I bought the YM240 it had a few 'deferred maintenance' (neglect) issues.

I had to open up the left brake and free up the shaft that goes through the cover. I noticed the anchor pin is made asymmetrical so turning it 90 degrees would move the shoes out if they are worn. I don't remember if I did that, I think not. I did swap the leading/trailing shoes to average out the wear. I learned to do that on a '49 Chevrolet.

And that's all I know. Sorry I don't have an answer for this.

 

[clemsonfor]

It was rusted like that from vietnam. That was last year when I went in to get the cam unstuck. I guess they got it in water back in asia. It had a newer gasket I think on it from VN refurb...or it could of been laying around like that in a yard before assembly. Since that pic there is no new rust. Neither time when I went in was there moisture present or oil in there. I just think it's from previous life/neglect.

I will look at shoes and move them around, back/front or reverse them and look at that cam. It may need to be rotated?

 

[clemsonfor]

Talked to Aaron From Hoye, I sent pictures. The problem was that the drum was so rusted that it chewed the shoes up. I pulled it off took a wire wheel to it and there was pitting that Aaron said he would like to see smoothed a bit. Called on a retired coworker and her husband that have all kinds of machine shop stuff and see if they could turn it on the lathe. He said he couldn't get a grip to turn it no matter how he tried and he though about turning a groove in the outer surface to grap but said all that and turning wouldn't be worth his time. So he took a flap disk and grinder to it and got it way better. Pits are still there but not near as noticeable and hardly felt. He restores tractors and is big time into classic JD and Cat, he is a retired Cat mechainic with 47 years. We both feel its good now to put back in.


So anyway I still have no adjustment left on the shoes yet there just over the replacement spec but still cant adjust up without cutting the rod, which I don't think I will do. I could look for a longer threaded coupler I guess?

I also do not see a way to turn the mounting studs or the cam lever to get more wear out of them (already flipped the shoes themselves and I cant get any better grip) The top pin that the shoes rest on is not designed to be turned how I see it. The shaft has flat sides on the opposing sides if you turn it 90 degrees but the surface they rest on is not near as large as the way its designed to be inserted. that and mine is stuck and I will have to get it back in a vice and possibly heat and beat to get it out.

Any suggestions, I measured my drum and its right in the middle of the spec in diameter so its not worn out or turned down to far.

Just trying to think of a way to cheat this as I am cheap but heck to have my tractor working for $80 in brakes is not bad, considering I will be good for $20 years as I am now having to do the seal and collar as seen in my other post.

 

[clemsonfor]

I need to get my calipers out tonight anc check the lineings again and get an average. I am right above the replace spec from what I saw but I didn't think I was below it. But I guess if I shortened the rods I could adjust them back up so technically they still would be good.

 

[normde2001]

You still need to swap the cam and pin side-to-side.

 

[California]

The top pin that the shoes rest on is not designed to be turned how I see it. The shaft has flat sides on the opposing sides if you turn it 90 degrees but the surface they rest on is not near as large as the way its designed to be inserted. that and mine is stuck and I will have to get it back in a vice and possibly heat and beat to get it out.

Any suggestions, I measured my drum and its right in the middle of the spec in diameter so its not worn out or turned down to far.

If that anchor pin isn't near square then I wonder if the wrong pin was put in there by someone. It should be slightly wider in one direction.

Here's a trick I discovered on an old car when I opened it up: Someone had welded additional metal on each end of the brake linings to make them expand farther. Then ground and polished the weld blobs so they wouldn't gouge the cams. If your shoes are near the wear limit this might give you a few more years.

Something else that might work: cut more threads on the adjusting rods if they don't already bottom out.

But I think new brake shoes and likely anchor pins are what's needed to do this right. It sounds like you have reached what Yanmar designed as the wear limit.

 

[duanew1]

I have a YM2001 and mine does not have the adjustable square pin. Mine is round also. One of my brakes got rusted tight and wore itself down by the PO. After I got it apart and the cam greased, I bent a flat piece of metal over the pin to space out the pads on that side. It worked for me.

 

[clemsonfor]

You still need to swap the cam and pin side-to-side.

I don't see why it wont work either, but the sides are not equal on it. it will push the shoes out farther but the mating surface of the pin and the shoes is smaller on that other side. wont effect anything as its just a spot to rest them on.

 

[kenmac]

looks as if you have a good amount of material left on the shoes... I had mine re lined a while back, and couldn't tell any difference in the new ,and old..If I remember right,, there is only about 1/8 material on the shoe when new

 

[clemsonfor]

Aaron says there is about 1/4" on the shoes he sells new.

California , the pin has 4 flat sides it's just that 2 sides are larger than the other 2. So like one side the shoes rest on is like a 1" surface and the other side is like 3/4" or 3/5" all sides are flat though.

To get the pin free I loosed the nut and screwed it back on to protect the threads and I beat it out with a block of wood and a deadblow. There was no O ring in there it had like a glue or silicone seaLing it in there. So I cleaned that up with a wire wheel and pulled out the original kit and found one to fit and turned it 90ｰand tightenEd it down. Problem was holding the pin right as it wanted to turn even with a wrench on the brake mount surface. Anyway I got it. If I was smart I'd of put the brakes on and tightened it on when it was on tractor. But I got it done.

So I put it back togeather and I have plenty of adjustment and petal travel matches the other side. I hate I ground so much material off when I adjusted it that time after getting it unstuck. But you live n learn. Should still be plenty left for years to come. The tops of the pads still had factory groves like cut into them, like x's