Yikes! Well pump replaced.

[TheGoose]

Anything over a 1.5 HP requires a Control Box with start and run capacitors. A 5 HP requires a lot more than a 2-HP and are quite a bit more pricey.

 

[8N Ren]

That makes sense, thanks for the explanation Goose.

 

[Katahdin]

Holy heck is right. My well pump is on borrowed time so this thread has me nervous. The well pump I'm using was installed mid-1990s and the house it was connected to burned in 1997. I built a new house on the same site in 2001, the electrician wired up the old pump that had been sitting unused in the ground for four years and up the water came! I have no idea what make or model the pump is down there but I'm impressed its lasted this long. I'm sorry you've had all this trouble with yours.

 

[Alan L.]

I guess your driller just prefers Berkley pumps. The pumps and motors come separated anyways that big so it's no big deal to use your motor of choice and Franklin is top notch. Since you have blown two pumps and a c-box I suspect that your well/tank is getting waterlogged and you're not catching it in time. Do you know if you have an air-maker/bleeder system? You need to be checking the snifter valve every month to make sure that it's not plugged.

I don't know anything about the water worker tank. Some people claim it's the same tank and some claim that it's not made quite as well as the normal WXT. I tend to think it's probably made a little cheaper, hence the shorter warranty. You don't need to move any of your pressure switches or anything like that.

Good luck to you and make sure you post up what the results were. I would like for you to time the pump run time before/after and let us know the difference too. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised.

For even better results use an air compressor and add an extra bit of air to your tank than the natural drawdown. You can get your galv. tank to a charged state where you can have a 50-gallon drawdown just by adding air via an air compressor.

d

I dont have an air maker system or a snifter valve to put air back in the tank. The longest I have ever gone is about 6 months without putting air in the tank and if there has been short cycling I have never noticed it. My well driller insists that he does not like any set up that runs water down the outside of the galvanized pipe. Says the pipe will rust out. My B-I-L well driller down in Galveston county TX uses the setup and says does not see rust caused by that column of water draining back down into the well. I mentioned it again and they discouraged it. They also discourage the use of a cycle stop valve, said the back pressure on the pump is harmful.

 

[CurlyDave]

Reading with great interest. I just started irrigating some landscaping with my well, and it has started producing a lot of sand. I am putting in a sand filter (Lakos IWB-0050) tomorrow, but I am worried about what the sand has done to the bladders in my tanks.

 

[turnkey4099]

d

I dont have an air maker system or a snifter valve to put air back in the tank. The longest I have ever gone is about 6 months without putting air in the tank and if there has been short cycling I have never noticed it. My well driller insists that he does not like any set up that runs water down the outside of the galvanized pipe. Says the pipe will rust out. My B-I-L well driller down in Galveston county TX uses the setup and says does not see rust caused by that column of water draining back down into the well. I mentioned it again and they discouraged it. They also discourage the use of a cycle stop valve, said the back pressure on the pump is harmful.

Some places do have a problem with galv rusting. I am one. Had a pipe spring a leak, dug it up and the entire pipe was one massive mass of rust. I had to bypass a 1/4 mile of pipe -much easier running new pvc (should have used the black poly) than dig up the old line.

Harry K