Loader Yanmar YM240D

[brads522]

New to this tractor thing, the father-in-law just gave us a Yanmar YM240D. The tractor runs good but the hydraulics don't work and one of the metal hydraulic lines on the YFL-240 loader is broken completely in half.

1. do I need to replace the hydraulic pump?
2. Can the loader lines be bought new or will it have to be rebuilt/repaired?

Sorry to sound like an idiot, but just don't have a clue...

 

[California]

One of my hard lines was replaced by a piece of flex hose at that location. It works fine and this obviously is an easier fix. Estimate $25 to have a short hose made up for you.

Troubleshooting: loosen the fitting at the hydraulic pump output (smaller line) and see if anything comes out. (Caution - can be high pressure, dangerous, stand clear!) More likely it is what we just saw described in another thread here, a problem back at the control valve and/or 3-point lift piston.

About the only thing that kills these pumps is deadheading it, running against a closed quick-disconnect etc where there is no pressure relief valve in the circuit. And that isn't likely unless somebody modified something.

 

[brads522]

Thanks, will do some trouble shooting before I start throwing any money..

I will also look for the posts your referring to, hopefully I can figure this baby out!

 

[California]

... hopefully I can figure this baby out!

After a couple of minor projects you'll realize these YM2000/YM240 Yanmars are about as simple to maintain as a bicycle.

If you weren't aware: the original YM240 Service, Parts, and Operation manuals published by Yanmar-USA are still available. I got mine off Ebay. Loaders and implements for these were provided by US suppliers, so generic parts from your local hydraulic shop etc work fine. And Hoyetractor .com stocks any Yanmar-specific parts you might need. Overall, these are the best supported of any 30 year old Japanese tractor.

Finally: you might like to take a look at the YM240 info referenced from my sig, below. Original sales brochure, etc.

Welcome aboard!

 

[Dieselcrew]

Welcome I was the one bout a month ago with a 240d w/ what I thought was a bad pump. Make sure that under the seat the pressure line block has a jumper hose connected when the loader is not hooked up. I will send you a picture of what I had to do to get my 3 pt working.

 

[brads522]

Thank you! I do still have the loader on the tractor, but maybe I could try something like this for the interim until I get the line on the loader fixed..

 

[brads522]

Update: I replaced the starter switch so now I can actually start and run the tractor correctly. I messed with the hydraulic on/off valve under the seat and voila the hydraulics started working. (at first). Once the tractor runs for a bit the hydraulics work spotty and eventually quit working all together. I shut the tractor down, fire it up the next AM and it is the same thing all over again, any ideas?

I am patching the lines on the loader back together via compression fittings for the time being.

One more thing, there is a rod associated with the gear shift that sometimes moves out the front of shift tower (for lack of a better term) and when it does that tranny/hydraulic fluid runs out the void it leaves at the back of the tower. Maybe that is something that just came loose from inside the transmission or something?

 

[Smoody]

Have you cleaned the hydraulic screen?

also pictures of what you are referring would help

 

[brads522]

I haven't cleaned the screen yet, maybe that should be my next step? I will try and get some pictures this evening...

 

[Smoody]

I haven't cleaned the screen yet, maybe that should be my next step? I will try and get some pictures this evening...

yes you should clean the screen, drain all the hydro/trans fluid before taking the screen out or you'll have a huge mess. should be about 4.5 gallons in it, likely there are 2 drain bolts under there, each will drain out about 2+/- gallons

 

[brads522]

Thanks. I will try that!

 

[California]

I haven't cleaned the screen yet, maybe that should be my next step?

Might be a good idea. Here's where the hydraulic filter is located on the 2wd version, under a triagular plate at the bottom front of the transmission.

I hope your filter looks better than mine did. A too-large o-ring had been forced in there. It was compressed so hard that it welded the filter into the housing. After a lot of tugging the filter came out in pieces. A new 'strainer' (filter) and the proper o-ring cost about $60.

 

[brads522]

Very helpful, thank you!

 

[brads522]

K, I drained the hydraulic fluid and cleaned the screen. The strange thing is that the hydraulic fluid was real milky, apparently has water in the system. That explains why a couple of my loader lines split, most likely 'froze' like water lines. I have refilled and the fluid is looking a little milky again, will most likely have to drain and change again. It seems like the more I work the hydraulics the better they get, however they are still not 100%. They start off great and worsen as the tractor runs. I still haven't had a chance for photo's, I won't bother with the 'rod' that moves back and forth out of the casing near the shifter until I can show you a picture of what I am referring to. So, any more ideas for me?

 

[California]

I wonder if the water will settle out of the hydraulic fluid if you drain it and set it aside in a barrel. Anybody know?

 

[brads522]

The fluid I drained 4 days ago has not separated yet...

 

[brads522]

one more thing, my Yanmar is the 4x4 version. Does anyone know if the front axle shares fluid with the transmission and hydraulic system. This tractor sat in a dry pond (that wasn't always dry depending on the rainy season) and water from the front axle was one of my theories as to how the water made it in.

 

[284 International]

The front axle lubricant is separate from thentransmission and hydraulic fluid. The drop box that powers the driveshaft shares fluid with the transmission.

I don't think the water settles out once it has been emulsified. I expect there are emulsifying agents in the lubricant to keep that from happening. Old hydraulic fluid in some of my grandfathers implements, that had not been operated in a decade or more were still yellow-milky when I drained them. I imagine careful heating could evaporate the water while leaving behind the oil, though.