Yanmar YM135/YM155 Parts Cross-Reference

[gmiller001]

In the process of putting my old YM135 back together, I've put together a list of parts. Some of this info is scattered around on the Internet, but some of it is info that I had to figure out on my own. I figured that putting all of this together in one place could help someone else.

Part Name	Original Yanmar Part #	New Part #	Notes
Cooling Water Joint (radiator hose connector)	124160-49480	84736	Available at O'Reilly, Advance, and NAPA
Alternator (external rectifier - for 4-wire rectifier/regulator)	124660-77991	10941N	WAI brand
Regulator (replaces 4-wire design)	121520-77710	CH15589	Search for a regulator for a YM220 or a Deere 650. Also used on Kubota and Grasshopper. There's usually a dozen for them for less than $40 on Ebay and Amazon
Yanmar Lime Green Paint (early USA market Yanmars)	???	CML-6054	Van Sickle Tractor and Equipment Enamel for Clark Forklift
Air Filter (donut style)	12460-12510	42710 PA1832	Wix Baldwin
Oil Filter	124450-35100	51064	Wix
Fuel Filter	104500-55710	33262	Wix
Headlight Socket	N/A separately from Yanmar	826-84312-00	Yamaha (used on snowmobiles)
Headlight Bulb	194262-53080	A7023	LED bulbs available (search for "P15D-3 LED")
Turn Signal Light	(multiple part numbers)	TC222-33610	Kubota part
Belt	124060-44290	A27	Generic
Muffler	(multiple part numbers)	YM-1 CH15910	Stanley (generic Yanmar replacement) John Deere (compact)
Battery Hold Down	194262-51350	AM101500	Deere part. Use with 8" J-bolt hold down kit available at any auto parts store.
Fuse Box	194200-52210	15600-06-20	Bussmann. Available at most auto parts stores.

 

[gmiller001]

My YM135 was missing its alternator when I bought it. The YM135/YM155 came with either a 3-wire regulator or a 4-wire regulator. Both types had two wires coming out of the alternator. The difference between the two is that the 3-wire setup had the rectifier (diodes) built onto the back of the alternator, while the 4-wire setup had the rectifier (diodes) built into the regulator.

Rather than trying to source a (rare and expensive) "3-wire" alternator, I decided to convert my tractor over to a "4-wire" alternator. I picked up a brand-new alternator on Amazon for $73. Also, I made the decision to go with a 6-wire regulator - because they are plentiful and cheap. To make this work, I ran two new wires from the regulator to the alternator. These wires connect the two leads coming out of the alternator to the blue leads on the regulator (polarity doesn't matter on these). I also ran three new wires from the regulator to the starter (battery), ignition switch, and ground. This setup requires a good ground! I didn't use the indicator light wire on the regulator.

The 6-wire regulator bolts right up under the dash, using the original holes. If you want to use the 6-way plug on the regulator, search Ebay for a Kawasaki or Honda regulator pigtail.

This converts the YM135/YM155 over to the same system that the Deere 650 uses.

 

[bmaverick]

Be very careful with a wix oil filter for gas engines on a diesel engine. The wix filters go below 32-micron and will reduce the oil flow. 32-micros should be the lowest and no more than 36-microns. A Purolator diesel engine oil filter would be your best bet.

 

[bmaverick]

YM135/YM155 manuals from the Yanmar Tractor Owners Group on GroupsIO at main@yanmar-tractor-owners.groups.io | Home

:cool2:

 

[bmaverick]

The Yanmar turn signal light in your chart is the John Deere Amber Warning Light for each fender. These are the Steiner brand of OE lights. p/n ABC544
https://www.steinertractor.com/ABC544-Round-Fender-And-Cab-Mount-Warning-Light
$17. But, at Rural King and Farm & Fleet, the prices are under $15 for the Steiner brand lights.

They also make a modern LED version, but the price is just crazy.

Steiner also makes the OE rear flood work light too.
https://www.steinertractor.com/IHS3018-Rear-12-Volt-Combo-Tail-Light-with-Rubber-Bezel-Hobbs-Style-
Notice the mounting stem is angled. Depending on the Yanmar curved fender, this style will work best shining rearward. This once was sold in JD green and Massey red at one time too. Now, it's just Ford Boomer gray.

 

[bmaverick]

BTW, good luck in finding the headlight bulb for the A7023 P15D-3. The original for Honda and Yamaha machines were 25W/35W. Lowbeam/Highbeam. These are nearly nonresistant anymore. I no longer could find them at Napa. They were the last place that had them.

The Honda ATVs used them years back.

So, after digging I had found there is a 45W/45W version that is more popular, the 12080 P15D-3.
CANDLEPOWER 12V 45/45W H/L BEAM HEADLIGHT LAMP BULB J-BASE A7028 6245J P15D-3 12080

This would be brighter than any of the other Yanmar parts places like Hoye or Fredricks and are a direct fit. The LED version is 40W on the web.

Now, the P15D-3 was replaced by the H6M bulbs for motorcycles. The EU uses a boat load of these. The downside is, the glass bulb length is not a single length. It comes in a stubby and a tall length. These range from 25W, 30W, 45W, 60W, and 90W. On vehicles, 65W are highbeams.

As the EU went H6M as a replacement, Asia motorcycle makers went with the T19 bulb for the motor-scooters. However, the brightness power was 25W/35W, just like our tractors were from the 80s.

If I had to replace the bulbs, the A7028 45W 12080 would be a good pick. Then the H6M 45W as a second pick. LED prices are a bit too high at this time.

 

[gmiller001]

There's got to be more to oil filters than the micron ratings. The filter number specified above came directly from Wix's own application lookup. It has a micron level of 21, and a flow rate of 9-11 GPM. When I look up a filter for a John Deere 330 (3-cyl Yanmar diesel), it's the same story - 21 microns, and 9-11 GPM. Since Wix is arguably the most reputable company in the filtration business, I'd be surprised if they offered a filter *specifically for the Yanmar YM135* that didn't meet the correct specs.

 

[gmiller001]

I'll have to see if I can get my YM135/YM155/YM240/YM330 Electrical Service Manual scanned. I've never seen another one like it on the Internet...

 

[gmiller001]

The A7023 25W bulb is still available on the Internet from "2 Fast Moto". Of course, all of the "gray tractor parts suppliers" still carry them, too (they seem to only stock the gold-plated ones, though).

While upgrading to a 45W bulb would throw more light, that worries me. First, that extra light comes with extra heat. Will the 40+ year old bulb socket that was designed for 25W be able to withstand that extra heat? Second, the YM135/YM155 alternator was rated for 8.5A @ 14V (119W). The tail lights were designed for 20W bulbs. The headlights were designed for 25W bulbs. That's 90W in total. With 45W headlights, the tractor will actually consume more power from the battery than it produces.

When I originally purchased the LED headlight bulbs for my YM135, the only place I could find them was Aliexpress (they took 6 weeks to arrive). Now, a pair of bulbs is available on Amazon or Ebay for $13. The LED bulbs seem to be between 18W-22W.

For my tail lights, I ordered the reproductions (FL-4440). I tried the commonly available 4" lights (I think mine were Peterson branded - Optronics makes one too), but I felt that they just didn't look right on such a small tractor. The originals were roughly 2-1/4" in diameter. The reproduction ones have a plastic body, while the originals had a metal body. The number I provided in the table above should cause Google to display some square lights that look almost identical to the reproductions with the exception of being square, instead of round). If I get around to restoring this tractor, I might see how a set of 3" chrome-bodied lights look on it (Double Face Pedestal Archives - Grand General - Auto Parts Accessories Manufacturer and DistributorGrand General Auto Parts Accessories Manufacturer and Distributor)!

 

[bmaverick]

The A7023 25W bulb is still available on the Internet from "2 Fast Moto". Of course, all of the "gray tractor parts suppliers" still carry them, too (they seem to only stock the gold-plated ones, though).

Still not the original Yanmar bulb that is low/high beam. The A7023 is 25W/25W. I have the original intent bulbs in mine. The 10W makes a huge difference.

While upgrading to a 45W bulb would throw more light, that worries me. First, that extra light comes with extra heat. Will the 40+ year old bulb socket that was designed for 25W be able to withstand that extra heat? Second, the YM135/YM155 alternator was rated for 8.5A @ 14V (119W). The tail lights were designed for 20W bulbs. The headlights were designed for 25W bulbs. That's 90W in total. With 45W headlights, the tractor will actually consume more power from the battery than it produces.

Yes, the automotive sockets from that era out of Japan and Taiwan for motorcycles worked up to 90W. Your issue is the wimpy alternator on the YM135/YM155. The larger YM series machines have 35A alternators. And I still think those are weak vs. having the 55A or 60A for that era. There are new VRs for our machines that can handle the higher alternator output. A thread here mentions how to do the upgrade. 336D Alternator Upgrade & Lights https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/yanmar/229542-336d-alternator-upgrade-lights.html

When I originally purchased the LED headlight bulbs for my YM135, the only place I could find them was Aliexpress (they took 6 weeks to arrive). Now, a pair of bulbs is available on Amazon or Ebay for $13. The LED bulbs seem to be between 18W-22W.

I checked locally at autoparts stores, recreation stores, and even lawn tractor repair stores in my area. Only Napa had them for $2.00ea. I bought a box that had 4 remaining. Whew, I just fetched the box in the garage at 18F outside. The brand is CandlePower p/n 3968, 12VDC 35W/25W OE bulb, Honda Head Light. The box data of manufacture was 10/1992. I bought them in 2014!

Here a link to an important bulb chart for the older motorcycles from Asia.
Automotive And Motorcycle Bulb List - Candlepower

For my tail lights, I ordered the reproductions (FL-4440). I tried the commonly available 4" lights (I think mine were Peterson branded - Optronics makes one too), but I felt that they just didn't look right on such a small tractor. The originals were roughly 2-1/4" in diameter. The reproduction ones have a plastic body, while the originals had a metal body. The number I provided in the table above should cause Google to display some square lights that look almost identical to the reproductions with the exception of being square, instead of round). If I get around to restoring this tractor, I might see how a set of 3" chrome-bodied lights look on it (Double Face Pedestal Archives - Grand General - Auto Parts Accessories Manufacturer and DistributorGrand General – Auto Parts Accessories Manufacturer and Distributor)!

Nice. The metal housings are a plus.

 

[gmiller001]

If these tractors used a "standard" style of alternator, I would have certainly converted over to a "Denso" (mini GM or 70's model Japanese car) like the person with the 336D did. However, the alternator in the YM135/YM155 (and YM1500?) has the cooling fan mounted to the front of it. There's really no good way (that I could see) to add a "standard" alternator to it while maintaining a factory appearance and keeping the fan shrouds in place (bear in mind that this is a thermosiphon tractor, as well - so it's important to not compromise the cooling system).

 

[bmaverick]

If these tractors used a "standard" style of alternator, I would have certainly converted over to a "Denso" (mini GM or 70's model Japanese car) like the person with the 336D did. However, the alternator in the YM135/YM155 (and YM1500?) has the cooling fan mounted to the front of it. There's really no good way (that I could see) to add a "standard" alternator to it while maintaining a factory appearance and keeping the fan shrouds in place (bear in mind that this is a thermosiphon tractor, as well - so it's important to not compromise the cooling system).
View attachment 678369
View attachment 678370

UGH. Your machine has that awful dyno setup. OK, you're right. Basically you would loose the OE look.



Is there a cooling hose right behind it? The YM1610 and the YM2310 has that U-hose right behind it. The only way to mount a more modern alternator is to have it mounted higher under the hood on a sure bracket setup and a different belt length possibly.

YM1610


YM2310

 

[gmiller001]

No. The YM135/YM155 (and YM1500?) alternators mount to a plate that is bolted directly to the front of the engine. There is no cooling hose behind it. There is also no water pump (thermosiphon).

I think that trying to adapt a different style of alternator to these tractor models just isn't worth it. You still have to maintain the factory alternator (or at least a shell of it) in order to have a place to mount the fan. The factory alternator was 8.5A. This was designed to drive 25W headlights and 20W tail lights (and the occasional use of a 20W work light). With modern LED bulbs, it's easy to work within the confines of the original alternator while still creating sufficient light. However, the aftermarket alternator I spec'd above is rated at 15A (or 20A - depending upon the seller). It's quite a bit larger in diameter than the original (in fact, I had to file a flat spot on the aluminum housing, in order to get a socket between it and the injector lines to tighten one mounting bolt). In other words, one can nearly double his charging capacity on these tractors for less than $90 (add $30, if you also upgrade the regulator). That really should be good enough - and it doesn't require (drastic) cosmetic changes or compromising the already "iffy" cooling system.

 

[bmaverick]

No. The YM135/YM155 (and YM1500?) alternators mount to a plate that is bolted directly to the front of the engine. There is no cooling hose behind it. There is also no water pump (thermosiphon).

I think that trying to adapt a different style of alternator to these tractor models just isn't worth it. You still have to maintain the factory alternator (or at least a shell of it) in order to have a place to mount the fan. The factory alternator was 8.5A. This was designed to drive 25W headlights and 20W tail lights (and the occasional use of a 20W work light). With modern LED bulbs, it's easy to work within the confines of the original alternator while still creating sufficient light. However, the aftermarket alternator I spec'd above is rated at 15A (or 20A - depending upon the seller). It's quite a bit larger in diameter than the original (in fact, I had to file a flat spot on the aluminum housing, in order to get a socket between it and the injector lines to tighten one mounting bolt). In other words, one can nearly double his charging capacity on these tractors for less than $90 (add $30, if you also upgrade the regulator). That really should be good enough - and it doesn't require (drastic) cosmetic changes or compromising the already "iffy" cooling system.

I guess I missed the 8.5A to 15A~20A alternator update in your chart. That indeed is a way better way.

Did those manual help any? Or did you have them?

 

[winston1]

Probably not worth the time, but I did mount an alternator on my old 2002D. Here is the thread if anyone interested. https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/yanmar/293154-ym2002d-alternator-possibility.html

 

[bmaverick]

Probably not worth the time, but I did mount an alternator on my old 2002D. Here is the thread if anyone interested. https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/yanmar/293154-ym2002d-alternator-possibility.html

Really nice work! I got to your post #29. Those images literally relate to my thinking of moving the alt above it's normal location. Hats off to you sir for going the distance of making a beefier 12VDC system. I did like Neat1500 giving pointers how the ignition light works. It reminds me of a time I had to wire a 2-switch setup to a ceiling fan. The directions said to cross the red wire to the black wire. I thought the directions in half English were wrong. I tripped the breaker and sparks flew. :confused2: I then starred at those two wires and thought, well it can't be any worse than what I did. Well, the directions were right. :laughing:



GMiller 001, I tried looking up that 10941N WAI alternator and got nothing in the search engines. How does one find this? Using an international search engine outside my region, I found this ZAP site with it listed. It's the only site I found. Купить 1941N WAIGLOBAL Генератор

 

[bmaverick]

GMiller 001, I tried looking up that 10941N WAI alternator and got nothing in the search engines. How does one find this? Using an international search engine outside my region, I found this ZAP site with it listed. It's the only site I found. Купить 1941N WAIGLOBAL Генератор

Ah ha, there was a tab on the Russian ZAP site to find the Yanmar/Deere p/n cross-references. Got a hit on Amazon. 124660-77990 or 124660-77991 or
Amazon.com: Rareelectrical NEW 12V 2A ALTERNATOR COMPATIBLE WITH JOHN DEERE APPS 12466-77991 12466 1246677991: Automotive

And I found that Lester is the brand for p/n 10941N. WAI is just a re-seller.

400-58018 Permanent Magnet Alternator for Yanmar PMA 12 Volt, 20 Amp 124660-77990
BRAND PART NUMBER
ARROWHEAD APM0014
YANMAR 124660-77990, 124660-77991
LESTER 10941, 10941N

I liked the hunting for info and digging. Some people do crossword puzzles in the newspaper, I like to deep search the web.

 

[gmiller001]

124660-77990 is the alternator that has the rectifier built into it (uses 3-wire regulator).
124660-77991 is the alternator that has the external rectifier (the rectifier is built into the 4-wire regulator).

Even though many of these Internet vendors seem to advertise these two numbers as the same part, they are most certainly not. From what I can tell, the only place that truly sells the 124660-77990 aftermarket alternator is Hoye Tractor. Every other source I've found does not seem to offer a rectifier. The aftermarket unit is mainly advertised as a replacement for the YM1500 (which used a "4-wire" setup) - so it makes sense that it doesn't come with a rectifier.

WAI Global is the manufacturer that produces the Lester Catalog (that starter and alternator rebuilders use to order parts for rebuilds):
Lester Catalog

I actually have the original manuals for the YM135 (Parts, Operator's, Service, and Electrical Service).

 

[gmiller001]

Here's a copy of the diagram for the "4-wire" YM135 regulator (the setup with the diodes in the regulator). I found this on the Internet years ago, but I've never seen it since. Even the Yanmar Electrical Service Manual that I have doesn't include this diagram!
View attachment YM155 Wiring.pdf