I've got a 1303 tiller and she has been good to me. Has anyone ever removed the middle board in the rear of the tiller to make a nice hill? Atleast that is what it looks like it would do if I took out the center piece. I'm planting some potatoes this year and I thought I would try it out. Has anyone done this and how did it work out for you?
Yanmar tiller question.
- Thread starter MDM
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NCGMAN
Bronze Member
Do you mean the tiller done that? No raking?? That is really a good idea and how far apart are the rows?? Could you make them closer??
According to the camera you done this in 2004, and you are just sharing this?? Shame on you!!!!! I've been thinking about a Yanmar tiller. Just wondering what the differance between US and Japan tillers.....
Really nice looking garden; you got rocks to I see. What I do is walk along and chunk out rocks....
According to the camera you done this in 2004, and you are just sharing this?? Shame on you!!!!! I've been thinking about a Yanmar tiller. Just wondering what the differance between US and Japan tillers.....
Really nice looking garden; you got rocks to I see. What I do is walk along and chunk out rocks....
California
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2004
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- 16,652
- Location
- An hour north of San Francisco
- Tractor
- Yanmar YM240 Yanmar YM186D
Well I'll be darned. My 1400 just has a hand-sized hole higher up which I presumed was for untangling berry bushes etc. It's hard to see in this picture.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...r-working-rpm-p-1-1060296rtillerhiloexamp.jpg
I wonder why all their tillers don't have that large removable panel like yours.
In your photo, do I see 'wings' that level beyond the width of the tiller?
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...r-working-rpm-p-1-1060296rtillerhiloexamp.jpg
I wonder why all their tillers don't have that large removable panel like yours.
In your photo, do I see 'wings' that level beyond the width of the tiller?
The picture was taken today - I didn't bother setting the date. Not many rocks, just clumpy clay cause I tilled it when it was still pretty damp. The spacing is about 24" between the base of each hill and 36" from hilltop to hilltop, just perfect for my walkbehind tiller. I should point out that the space between the hill is well tilled too. I'm mad too, I planted all of my sweet corn yesterday - before I tried making the hills. You are only seeing a small portion of my garden. I have 5 rows of Silver Queen and a few rows of taters/sweet taters below.
You know, I have had this tiller for a few years now (thanks LMTC) and have often thought of removing the middle board to see what kind of hills it would make, but just tried it today. The middle board is just removed with 4 wing nuts. I made a few more hills/rows since taking the pictures. I wish I had tried this sooner.
California, yes, it has spring loader flaps that smooth out the edges.
Here is what the garden will consist of this year. 60' rows.
5 rows Silver Queen
1 row Red Pontiac taters
1 row Sweet taters
1 row green beans
1 row peas
1 row tomatoes
1 row peppers
1 row onions
1 row beets
1 row carrots
Plus cucumbers, zuchini, horseradish and 1 giant pumpkin.
I can and freeze as much as I can handle, especially with food prices the way they are.
You know, I have had this tiller for a few years now (thanks LMTC) and have often thought of removing the middle board to see what kind of hills it would make, but just tried it today. The middle board is just removed with 4 wing nuts. I made a few more hills/rows since taking the pictures. I wish I had tried this sooner.
California, yes, it has spring loader flaps that smooth out the edges.
Here is what the garden will consist of this year. 60' rows.
5 rows Silver Queen
1 row Red Pontiac taters
1 row Sweet taters
1 row green beans
1 row peas
1 row tomatoes
1 row peppers
1 row onions
1 row beets
1 row carrots
Plus cucumbers, zuchini, horseradish and 1 giant pumpkin.
I can and freeze as much as I can handle, especially with food prices the way they are.
NCGMAN
Bronze Member
YOU ARE A SMART MAN!!!!!!
NCGMAN
Bronze Member
California said:
Would it work to cut it out and then fabricate a piece to cover it/??? Would it still make rows like that????
California
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2004
- Messages
- 16,652
- Location
- An hour north of San Francisco
- Tractor
- Yanmar YM240 Yanmar YM186D
Something just occurred to me.
The tillers have a decal showing various ways to arrange the tines. One tine angled left then the next angled right, etc.
Since the description for each arrangement is in Kanji (Japanese text), I don't think anyone here has deciphered the decals.
I wonder if one of the alternate tine arrangements is to make that ridge.
The tillers have a decal showing various ways to arrange the tines. One tine angled left then the next angled right, etc.
Since the description for each arrangement is in Kanji (Japanese text), I don't think anyone here has deciphered the decals.
I wonder if one of the alternate tine arrangements is to make that ridge.
Mickey_Fx
Veteran Member
Wow! What a nice tiller. I see you already have a pink pixie growing in one corner of the garden. :>)
You are young enough that you will be doing this for many years. Don't know if you remember what our place looked like, but before we stopped gardening we had three gardens totalling about an acre, maybe more. Do yourself the favor of getting and reading the following: Dick Raymond's "Joy of Gardening"
I still have mine around somewhere. The time spent reading that book was returned twenty-fold in tips, hints, methods, etc. Call or email if you want more, but one example....we always grew green beans in plots, not rows. Usually around 10 x 20 or more. Broadcast the beans by hand, turned them in lightly and quickly with a small tiller, and done. One good weeding early on, then the beans grew in so thick the weeds couldn't compete. Most of the beans were ready over a 7-10 day period, so we canned beans for several days until we had what we wanted. Great yields, minimum work. Many, many other tips and they all work.
You are young enough that you will be doing this for many years. Don't know if you remember what our place looked like, but before we stopped gardening we had three gardens totalling about an acre, maybe more. Do yourself the favor of getting and reading the following: Dick Raymond's "Joy of Gardening"
I still have mine around somewhere. The time spent reading that book was returned twenty-fold in tips, hints, methods, etc. Call or email if you want more, but one example....we always grew green beans in plots, not rows. Usually around 10 x 20 or more. Broadcast the beans by hand, turned them in lightly and quickly with a small tiller, and done. One good weeding early on, then the beans grew in so thick the weeds couldn't compete. Most of the beans were ready over a 7-10 day period, so we canned beans for several days until we had what we wanted. Great yields, minimum work. Many, many other tips and they all work.
fishstixtwo
Member
I have a model 1202. Looking at the picture of the decal, the bottom diagram is correct to throw dirt in. The center one will throw dirt out, and the top diagram will till flat. I have been tilling my garden like this for about 3 or 4 years. This is a rice paddy tiller and is designed to do this. Very easy to set up. Just install all the tine tips pointing toward the center, they throw dirt in. Install all except the outer 2 pointing away from center, they throw dirt outward. The random pattern tills flat. Adjust your flap to flatten the top to the desired heigth. No pictures now my garden won't be tillable for a couple of weeks. I am supprised that someone else is not taking advantage of this adjustment of tine location.
Hi Wayne. I do remember your place. I have been planting some green beans for the last few years that you might say are slightly illegal in origin. They were brought over from Italy by a friend years ago and my whole family plants them now. They will climb 15 ft if you let them. I have several bean towers that I use for them to climb on. I really like them because I don't have to bend over to pick them.
Villengineer
Gold Member
We were discussing the ability of the 1303 to work like this on another thread earlier this spring over in the attachments forum IIRC. I also have a 1303 from LMTC and often thought that removeing those panels would work just as your pics show. For what LMTC charged for it, it has to be the absolute best value of any equipment I've had.
fonman_4859
Member
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2007
- Messages
- 32
California my tiller looks like yours with the hole in the middle and no V shape cut out like the other picture. Also my back flap in not spring loaded but hangs from chains. I have been trying to think of a way to mount the spring loaded rods on mine. I would like to have some of the brackets that go on the depth wheel bar along with the hold down rods. Any of the dealers here have some off a non working tiller?
