Yanmar 2010D Clutch Repair Surprise

[smithboy]

It's been a while since my clutch went out on my 2010D. It sat in my barn for a few years because I had access to other equipment that could use to accomplish some of the same jobs...however, I got a bee in my bonnet and decided to start on it this past week. My shop and my house are in different locations, so I brought the tractor to my house for easy access...Of course, after weeks of no rain we have had several big showers.

Although splitting the tractor was a bit of work, there was nothing too complicated in the process. I tried to put in my steps for someone working on the same or similar tractor. There are some differences from the Hoye tractor parts video, but I really do appreciate the info provided by them as a reference, and many thanks to Aaron for answering questions.

Steps:
0) make sure you are on a flat smooth piece of concrete and have a lawn chair and beer handy...This aids in the thinkin' process. Pressure wash everything and gather some containers to put parts/bolts/nuts/misc. stuff into. Also, cheap plastic sandwich baggies with rubber bands work well to protect sensitive stuff from dirt (or, in my case RAIN) while it's disassembled.
1) remove side engine panels/grills for access and disconnect the battery to prevent fires and shorts...you will be dealing with electricals.
2) remove the steering wheel...I was able to use a gear puller in place of the standard steering wheel puller.
3) remove the gauge panel. This was a bit more complicated than expected, as the lights immediately came out of the back of the indicator slots when I pulled the panel away from the cowling. I think they were only held in by spider webs, so I may need help getting them back to the right locations on re-assembly.
4) unhook wiring harness from the lights, ground (front frame), alternator, starter, glow plug thingie, temp sending unit, oil pressure sending unit, voltage regulator, and a few other things and be prepared to pull it through the firewall (or what ever the plate is called). You will need to be very careful, because the plastic connectors are old and brittle and the wire coatings are not much better. Label each pair of wires or connectors with masking tape and sharpie, just to be safe...I started doing this almost too late...Don't pull yet, you need to take the cowling off first.
5) Unhook the compression release cable at the engine, but leave it attached to the cowling.
6) Take off the gear shift cover to unhook and remove the throttle bar at both ends...Pull it forward through the fire wall.
7) disconnect unscrew and remove the switch and various other threaded-in or hard-wired components from the cowling. This includes the hour meter and rpm gauge cable and what ever was left connected in the cowling....i.e., all those items directly connected to the wiring harness.
8) Remove and set aside the cowling.
9) Remove the fuel tank and pull the wiring harness through the left side of the fire wall, then lift out the fire wall.
10) disconnect the drag arm on the steering. I didn't remove the steering gear box as Hoye shows in their video because it was less accessible on the 2010d. I would have had to remove the left foot rest and associated braces and a bunch of sheet metal to get to the bolts.
11) disconnect and tie back the two hydraulic lines from the pump on the engine.
12) Take out the 4X4 drive shaft...much simpler than I thought it would be. Loosen the cover clamp in the middle, then take out 1 bolt on the front side and two on the back side and slide the plastic cover back. Then compress the spring forward and hold it in place by clamping vice grips on the shaft (but not too tightly). With the spring compressed, take out the pin. Release the spring. Then pull the drive shaft towards the back of the tractor and be ready for it to fall out quickly...I wasn't ready and dropped it on me and had to look around for the ball bearings...Found all 12...Whew! Take care of the rubber cup that falls out of the front side.

13) Support the front of the tractor under the front bumper and the back of the engine so it doesn't walk around while you are messing with the back. I had to use wooden 4x4s to support the jack stands, as mine were too short.

14) Put a rolling jack under the bell housing to support the back half and get ready to split!

15) remove the bell housing bolts. They are tight! I tried to loosen and pull apart without taking all bolts out for safety. After the two sides start to split, you may be glad you didn't take the bolts completely out. It starts splitting slowly, but once it's going, things happen fast.

My specific problems...
1) my clutch center was completely destroyed and spun semi-freely even with the pressure plate engaged. The heat and shrapnel caused by the destruction of the clutch caused damage to the flywheel, which I will have to have re-surfaced.
2) some previous owner welded the splined coupler to my clutch shaft to save having to buy another shaft WHEN THEY WERE PLENTIFUL! This may have led to premature failure of the clutch...or, maybe not...but I'd prefer to blame it on a previous owner regardless. Anyway, that's what I told my wife. **** YOU PREVIOUS OWNER!!!
3) the welding of the splined coupler may have hardened the coupler, because it chewed up the splined shaft on my power shift pump as well...a very expensive part only available used now. I am currently talking to a local machinist to see if there is any way he can repair or manufacture a new clutch shaft and/or pump shaft. Although I am not a machinist, I do a fair amount of welding, so if I can't get something at a reasonable price, I may resort to my own "talents" and tackle the job myself, I have a couple of ideas, but that's a last, LAST resort.
4) Because I waited a few years to tackle the job, I may have contributed to the problem by allowing the clutch shaft to rust into the clutch. Combining a shaft that is rusted into the clutch with a coupler welded to the other end very effectively prevented the throwout bearing from sliding off the back of the shaft when I was pulling the tractor apart. The result was that I got two really STREEEEEEECHED-OOOOOOOUT clutch springs. They are now about 1-foot long and look like industrial-strength curly hair extensions. I was actually wondering why my two tractor ends wanted to go back together so badly, when the rear end was rolling a little UP HILL to do it...I thought initially that these Yanmars could self-repair like Transformers...but, those two clutch springs were pulling the two halves back together.
5) Then the rains set in...


At the moment, I am part-hunting for a used pump/shaft and a clutch shaft. I am also contacting local machine shops to see if anyone is willing and able to repair/build my parts. So far, the splines are the major sticking point. Nobody I have called has the capabilities of cutting splines.

 

[smithboy]

Here are some pictures of the progress...Forgive the blue tarps. Rain happened.


Here is the clutch shaft with the "expert" repair by the PREVIOUS OWNER.

Here is the inside of the spline coupler end that was welded onto the clutch shaft. The is a ring clip in there. I cleaned this out as best I could for viewing purposes.

This tractor had a clutch-tastrophe, which resulted in my clutch flying into pieces while bush hogging. It was sudden and both the drive wheels and the pto stopped at the same time. I took off the bush hog and the pto would spin, but you could stop it with your hand...I know, don't do this. But, it was only spinning a few rpms. I could see something was wrong.

If you look to the back of the bell housing, you can see the pump shaft...The gear looks more like a saw blade than a splined shaft. **** YOU PREVIOUS OWNER!

I ended up having to cut the pressure plate and remainder of the clutch off the shaft and then use penetrating oil and a brass hammer to knock out the clutch shaft...It was really stuck!

 

[phatgemi]

Here are some pictures of the progress...Forgive the blue tarps. Rain happened.
View attachment 618983
View attachment 618984
Here is the clutch shaft with the "expert" repair by the PREVIOUS OWNER.
View attachment 618985
Here is the inside of the spline coupler end that was welded onto the clutch shaft. The is a ring clip in there. I cleaned this out as best I could for viewing purposes.
View attachment 618993
This tractor had a clutch-tastrophe, which resulted in my clutch flying into pieces while bush hogging. It was sudden and both the drive wheels and the pto stopped at the same time. I took off the bush hog and the pto would spin, but you could stop it with your hand...I know, don't do this. But, it was only spinning a few rpms. I could see something was wrong.
View attachment 618987
If you look to the back of the bell housing, you can see the pump shaft...The gear looks more like a saw blade than a splined shaft. **** YOU PREVIOUS OWNER!
View attachment 618988
I ended up having to cut the pressure plate and remainder of the clutch off the shaft and then use penetrating oil and a brass hammer to knock out the clutch shaft...It was really stuck!
View attachment 618986

Unable to open any of the attachments. Here is what I get: Forum Message
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Would be interested to see as I did the clutch on my YM2000 a while back.

 

[winston1]

Nice write up. I can't get pictures either.

 

[smithboy]

I put some lower resolution photos in to see if that was the problem. I can see all the pictures now, but can you?

 

[California]

I see seven photos in post #2, one of them duplicated in post 3. [added: using a Win 7 desktop]

That welded coupler and the consequential damage are ugly!!!

Was this a VN 'rebuilt'?

My first guess is this was never the right coupler seeing how one side of the coupler chewed the spline off the transmission input and the 'rebuilder' welded the other side.

 

[clemsonfor]

What a great write up. I am seeing the pics. But I am looking at them from Tapatalk.

 

[smithboy]

I see seven photos in post #2, one of them duplicated in post 3. [added: using a Win 7 desktop]

That welded coupler and the consequential damage are ugly!!!

Was this a VN 'rebuilt'?

My first guess is this was never the right coupler seeing how one side of the coupler chewed the spline off the transmission input and the 'rebuilder' welded the other side.

I think the tractor passed through Vietnam on its way here. I bought this YM2010d and two other YM1500d's in a package deal, where I kept the 2010 and sold the other two. I think I have about $2800 in the tractor. I complain, but I have put more than 400 hours on this tractor since I bought it. This has been my first major repair. I am inclined to agree that the coupler was a mis-match in the previous repair, because it looks to have less damage and may have started out with a different width/shape on the splines than the shaft did. I hadn't really thought about that until you mentioned it, but I bet you're right. I plan to do a little more tractor surgery this weekend to make the power shift pump more accessible, so more to come.

A question for the folks that have had experience with the Yanmar power shift pump...Do you have to remove the oil manifold (the thing with the cross bar) first before removing the power shift pump? Below is a picture of the transmission for a Yanmar 276 (basically the same) and it appears it can be removed without removing the manifold, but I'd like some independent confirmation if there is any to be had.

 

[smithboy]

To update the thread, I was able to find a parts source within driving distance. I have to give a shout-out to Tenena England at Cross Creek Tractor in Culman, Alabama. She is awesome squared! They had a 2wd YM2010 that had most of the parts I needed. She even went out in the rain to check to make sure the pump was there and in good shape. They ended up giving me a deal I couldn't pass up on the rear half of a tractor, spline coupler, clutch shaft and clutch springs. It's almost everything I need in non-consumables. I am carrying my flywheel to a local clutch specialist to resurface it today. Below are two pictures of my new donor tractor. Sorry for the blurry picture of the pump, but you can see the splined coupler in the back of the bell housing.





So, I drove out to Culman this past Friday with my wife to pick it up and we dropped by Top O' The River in Anniston for a plate of catfish and gulf shrimp on the way back...two birds, one stone, right?!

I was able to salvage quite a few additional parts that are better than mine, and now I have a couple of very hard-to-find backup parts as well (which includes a complete working transmission). The biggest pain in the butt so far is the glue used on the gaskets by yanmar...it's some super-hard-to-clean stuff that has slowed progress to a crawl. I have spent more than an hour just cleaning the replacement pump surface. Also, I finally found in the service manual that you MUST remove the oil manifold (below) before removing the powershift pump (above). It's not hard, but it requires another gasket cleanup. Additionally, I have decided to remove the bell housing to make this process easier. The junk tractor has provided very good practice and has made me aware of some disassembly issues to watch out for. For example, one needs to be very careful not to split both gaskets in the mid plate...else, you will pour out a bunch of oil and need to replace a gasket in a much more difficult place. I used a dead-blow plastic Harbor Freight hammer to gently split ONLY the front bell housing on the junk tractor. I lost only about a quarter of a cup of hydraulic fluid in the process. The service manual says to drain the case when replacing the pump...however, it may not be necessary. WARNING!!! Don't pressure wash the case when the bell housing is removed because there are openings near the top that will allow water to enter the transmission. The gasket on the rear of the mid plate remained intact during the bell housing removal. I am hoping I can do this a second time on my tractor. Below is a picture of the bell housing with the mating surface on top. Do not expect the gasket to be reusable. The salvage tractor had been rolled over (hope the previous owner is ok), so the steering shaft tube is broken at the bottom and the shaft is a little bent, but I think I can heat and straighten it for future use. You also don't have to remove the steering gear box for any of this. In fact, it is really useful in handling the heavy bell housing once you start to separate it. You DO have to unhook the clutch lever from the oil manifold lever to rotate the oil manifold lever out of the way while you remove the bell housing, else it will not separate completely. Note, I did the disassembly on my trailer in case I started to tick off my wife...in a pinch, I could just drive it away. Also pictured is my Harbor Freight hammer and my concrete seat. I may try to cut this gasket myself from Felpro oil-resistant fiber gasket material. I picked up a bunch of it at a local salvage store for next to nothing.



Here is the rear of the salvaged tractor after I have cleared away the sheet metal and other required removals.



I covered the front of the transmission with a garbage bag and a towel to prevent water intrusion. Notice the bent brake pedals. I attempted to bend those back so they would be out of the way. Those pedal tubes are pretty solid. Repairing those will not be easy. Other parts that appear to be good include the power shift shifter. It's really tight and very positively clicks into each speed. The range selector is in great shape. The three-point hitch looks in near perfect condition. The entire rear trans-axle looks to be straight. The PTO spins and shifts into all four speeds. I can turn the pump shaft with the pto engaged and the pump and the pto turn freely and smoothly. I think the brakes are locked from sitting but, that's to be expected. The hydraulic controls move freely, but there is no way to test or know if those are in good shape. There is a little rust pitting on the case from sitting directly on the ground, but nothing too bad. The hydraulic lines are in pretty good shape. They have a little surface rust, but no pitting and I have already cleaned the mating surface for the high pressure line up with 1000 grit sand paper. I think this rear end can be used with a 4wd unit as well. There is a plate bolted where the rear 4wd transfer case would bolt up. In a pinch, I think I could likely use the entire rear end to replace mine and may be able to maintain 4wd with a part swap or two. Obviously, the seat is in need of a few gallons of Armor All, but a REAL farmer can make do with baling twine and a lawn chair.

As a note to readers...if you have a repair that requires some hard-to-find parts, you may be much better going this route and buying a donor tractor for parts, IF there are nearby sources. Individual results may vary, but my costs were significantly lower in buying the junk tractor versus the individual parts. Search craigslist, ebay, Hoye, and others using both part numbers and model numbers. It's a scavenger hunt, but I was able to develop multiple options, but this was the least expensive and had the most upside for solving future problems. This tractor isn't rare, but some parts are becoming VERY difficult and expensive to source. I am still going to talk to a local machinist about producing the two shafts that I needed. I know my old pump is still good, and being able to replace the PSP shaft will repair a VERY valuable part. I will likely use this tractor for another year or two, once it's going again and then keep my eye out for a replacement.

 

[smithboy]

Ok...Here is another update. You may not have to be that careful with the dead-blow hammer in taking off the bell housing. Turns out there is a nut in the center of the mid-plate that looks like it keeps that mid-plate from moving during this part of the disassembly (see picture below). Also, a correction...you don't need to remove the oil manifold to get the PS pump out, BUT you can't re-torque the lower left bolt (lower right in pic), as it's blocked by the oil manifold. You can, however, get a box-end wrench on it just fine with a little jiggling. Here is the donor tractor with the pump removed. Removing the pump without removing the bell housing would have been REALLY tough (maybe close to impossible), especially the cleaning of the gasket material. The bell housing gasket was easier to clean, but not much.
Good pic of donor tractor with pump removed.

Pump front and back. It appears to be in very good shape. I cleaned it up a little and even tossed a coat of red paint on it before installation.


With paint.

Here is the re-assembly of the bell housing onto the mid-plate, with my hand-cut gasket Fel Pro oil and gasoline resistant rubber fiber gasket material. I used the same stuff to cut my power shift pump gasket as well. We shall see if I do a good job here.

Here is my resurfaced flywheel from Southside clutch.

If you have to resurface your flywheel, go ahead and put in a new bushing. It's easy once it's off the tractor. A tapered socket that fits into the center + Harbor Freight hammer = satisfaction! Three or four hard licks and the bushing was out. Take care not to get the new bushing started sideways, but a few gentle taps to line up the new bushing, then gradually increase the hammer strength until it's in. I could really tell the difference in the fit. Make sure to lube the end of shaft upon re-assembly. Also, just to note...This flywheel is HEAAAVY! You need to be ready when it lets go on disassembly and don't feel bad if it takes a couple of attempts to get it on the crank shaft on re-assembly. Also, the torque specs are wildly different between some of these tractors for the flywheel. I saw some as high as 300 foot-pounds. My YM276 states 50.6 to 54.2 foot-pounds. Don't over tighten or it will ruin your day. I felt really old and wheezey trying to put that thing back on. Here is the clutch and pressure plate back together.

Here is the view of the throwout bearing with my much better, but used, clutch shaft.

Now, here is where things got a little wonky...upon attempting to push the two halves back together, I was unable to get the splines on the clutch shaft to go in much further than about 1/4 of an inch into the center of the clutch disk. I tried light clamping pressure to no avail. I measured and pushed and pushed and measured...no luck. I couldn't get any of the bolts close to threading (which I know is a no-no, but I couldn't even attempt it)...so, I took another tact. I pulled the two halves back apart and put the clutch shaft into the clutch (with a very light coat of lubricant grease). I was able to wiggle it in the 1/4 of an inch and then it got really tight...so, I started tapping lightly with my trusty Harbor Freight dead blow hammer. Judging from tiny marks on the splines, every light tap moved it ever so slightly. I just kept tap, tap, tapping and finally it was in far enough that there HAD to be splines sticking out the front. To say it was a tight fit is an understatement. But, with the clutch shaft in the clutch disk, I started pushing the two halves back together. By the way, you have to have the steering gear box out of the tractor to make this method work, but work it did. With the throw out bearing and carrier already on the clutch shaft, I just had to make sure it lined up with the forks on the clutch lever, which wasn't that tough actually, since I could reach in through the top of the bell housing. Once the shaft was close to the spline coupler, I used my jack to get the coupler and clutch shaft on the same level...then a jiggle left and right and a twist of the PTO and it was on!!! 15 minutes tops. This was much easier than guessing where the shaft was in the clutch, even if it had not been so tight. I felt much more in control of the location of the the two halves when I could see the splined shaft and the coupler...This are views from the top.




Once the clutch shaft lined up with the coupler, it practically fell into place. The bell housing slid right up tight against the engine with only tiny gap. I put all my bolts in and started finger-tightening them and I only had a few turns to make with a wrench to torque them all down. I was very surprised that this worked as easily as it did. I don't have pictures, but I have already put the steering gearbox back in (mine had blue loctite on those bolts, so I re-applied it).

Right now, I am in the process of cleaning out the fuel tank...of all things, I found a whole lizard in the tank. It must have been in there for as long as I have owned the tractor, more than 15 years now. I thought I would flush the tank out before putting it back on, but once it and the 4wd shaft are back in, I plan to crank it up and test it out a bit. If I did something wrong, I'd rather know before I re-assemble everything.