bobidy
Member
high all.. cant find much on this model. Hoye has parts for it. Anyone have one of these or any experience or opinions on this model? Bob.
Buying Advice yanmar 1900
- Thread starter bobidy
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Jtullis13
Platinum Member
The 1900 is not one of the more popular yanmar models and I don't think there are many members here that have one either. I don't have any experience with the 1900, however the 1900 is set up like most other import models that we all have. If Hoye has parts for it then you should be ok if you need something for it. Is there anything specific that you are wanting to know about it? Are you looking at one or did you already purchase this tractor?
There are several members on here that have a lot of knowledge about these tractors that I am sure will chime in soon.
There are several members on here that have a lot of knowledge about these tractors that I am sure will chime in soon.
Well my 1610d has either a cracked head or block. have replaced the head gasket and am still getting sludge in the radiator and water in the oil.
I did not have the head magnafluxed but checked the head over good when i thought i just had a bad head gasket. used straight edge & visual inspection. no visible cracks. Cleaned it up good. cleaned up the bolts and bolt holes. torqued head to specs oriented gasket correctly etc. reset valves. tractor starts right up but 10 min run gives about 1/4 cup water in new oil and sludge in the radiator..
If Hoye still has it, a replacement engine is $2700 plus $1000 core fee Plus Shipping. Head i think was quoted at $800 plus core. I will likely pull the head and have it checked at machine shop if, it is good,I will probably look for another tractor.
the 1900 is one I ran across local for $3800 my fell a koyker 80 will fit it according to koykers web sight. Just exploring options right now. Snowed here a couple of days ago 17 degrees this A.M. will be in the 50's in couple of days and I will pull the head and have it checked. I am sure I will post questions on that as to how far I have to take the head apart to do that, mainly will I need to pull the injectors. or just the valves. never have taken a head to be checked. The 1900 I asked about is new to me too. It is a 2 cylinder with about 2hp more than the 1610 though I could be wrong.
I did not have the head magnafluxed but checked the head over good when i thought i just had a bad head gasket. used straight edge & visual inspection. no visible cracks. Cleaned it up good. cleaned up the bolts and bolt holes. torqued head to specs oriented gasket correctly etc. reset valves. tractor starts right up but 10 min run gives about 1/4 cup water in new oil and sludge in the radiator..
If Hoye still has it, a replacement engine is $2700 plus $1000 core fee Plus Shipping. Head i think was quoted at $800 plus core. I will likely pull the head and have it checked at machine shop if, it is good,I will probably look for another tractor.
the 1900 is one I ran across local for $3800 my fell a koyker 80 will fit it according to koykers web sight. Just exploring options right now. Snowed here a couple of days ago 17 degrees this A.M. will be in the 50's in couple of days and I will pull the head and have it checked. I am sure I will post questions on that as to how far I have to take the head apart to do that, mainly will I need to pull the injectors. or just the valves. never have taken a head to be checked. The 1900 I asked about is new to me too. It is a 2 cylinder with about 2hp more than the 1610 though I could be wrong.
HoyeTractor
Gold Member, Approved Advertiser
I like the 1600/1900 tractors. They are very similar to the 1700/2000 and share many of the same parts. They are not nearly as refined or smooth running as the 1610 but they are super simple to maintain and work on. You will gain a little horsepower but just don't expect to be able to do nearly the same loader work. The 2wd will really limit what you can do. It is better than a shovel by a long shot but not nearly as capable as a 4wd.
Jtullis13
Platinum Member
Sounds like you did the right thing with the 1610. You obviously have a leak somewhere, and sounds like the head or block. I would pull the head and inspect really well, if nothing there then look the block over again. Hopefully it is just the head gasket. Clean both surfaces really well, maybe take some emery cloth to the surface to ensure a smooth even plane before reinstalling. If it is still leaking you have a crack or warped head from running it too long with a blown gasket. The 1900 wouldn't be a bad tractor to have it you plan on getting rid of the 1610. Just look it over really well and run it for a while to make sure there are no issues with it.
Best of luck
clemsonfor
Super Member
1900 is an earlier version of the 2000 and very similar.
I see Aaron has stepped up to answer it so listen to what he said.
I see Aaron has stepped up to answer it so listen to what he said.
Thanks for the input. The 1610 had never overheated b4 ever. temp gauge never went past half way even when I brush hogged for a couple hrs in 100 degree temps thru the years. I had tilled my garden the day before the over heat with no issues. I got a trailer full of composted barn bedding the next day and had spread it over the top of my rows and was mixing it in the already tilled rows running in creep at about 2000 t0 2200 rpm. when i noticed the temp gauge rising
I pulled the tiller depth up about half way up form where I had it and reduced rpms but the gauge kept rising. so i pulled up and parked the tractor It never got to red on the gauge but just a hair below when I shut it down. A lot is going to depend on what I can find out about the head. So how far do I need to take the head down to ? after taking the manifolds off and valves out can the head be checked without pulling the injectors ? If the injectors have to be pulled, what about the pre combustion part will that have to be removed also? What do think my chances of pulling the injectors out without the special tool might be. Any help here will be appreciated as i have never pulled a head to have it checked.
When I replaced the head gasket I cleaned it and the Block up very well. I used kerosene & emery cloth 600 grit to smooth it up. also used a putty knife with rounded corners to keep from scoring the surfaces then I used I think it was naphtha to remove and clean every thing from both surfaces before installing the gasket.
Only thing I ever used the fel for was spreading some gravel on the drive and hauling wood up to the house or, from my trailer to my splitter or to push brush closer into piles i would burn now and then. I filled my front tires like a skid steer. so four wheel drive isnt a must but would be nice. Now that I am on a fixed Income some things have to be worked around some times.
I pulled the tiller depth up about half way up form where I had it and reduced rpms but the gauge kept rising. so i pulled up and parked the tractor It never got to red on the gauge but just a hair below when I shut it down. A lot is going to depend on what I can find out about the head. So how far do I need to take the head down to ? after taking the manifolds off and valves out can the head be checked without pulling the injectors ? If the injectors have to be pulled, what about the pre combustion part will that have to be removed also? What do think my chances of pulling the injectors out without the special tool might be. Any help here will be appreciated as i have never pulled a head to have it checked.
When I replaced the head gasket I cleaned it and the Block up very well. I used kerosene & emery cloth 600 grit to smooth it up. also used a putty knife with rounded corners to keep from scoring the surfaces then I used I think it was naphtha to remove and clean every thing from both surfaces before installing the gasket.
Only thing I ever used the fel for was spreading some gravel on the drive and hauling wood up to the house or, from my trailer to my splitter or to push brush closer into piles i would burn now and then. I filled my front tires like a skid steer. so four wheel drive isnt a must but would be nice. Now that I am on a fixed Income some things have to be worked around some times.
kenmac
Super Member
- Joined
- Feb 13, 2005
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- 9,835
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- The Heart of Dixie
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- McCormick CX105 Kubota MX 5100 HST, Kubota ZD1021, Kawsaki Mule 4010 trans 4x4
the machine shop that checks the head should be able to tell you if you need to pull the injectors,or not.
If they need to be pulled, they should be able to pull them instead of you buying a tool to pull them with.
If they need to be pulled, they should be able to pull them instead of you buying a tool to pull them with.
Jtullis13
Platinum Member
Agreed, the machine shop should be able to pull them for you. I had to remove mine on my 2210d one time and they came out fairly easy without any tool.
Spiros
Bronze Member
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- Aug 21, 2012
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- 88
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- Bartlett, TN
- Tractor
- Yanmar 2210, YM1900, 1963 Ford2000diesel, New HollandTC33
bobidy,
I have owned and worked hard a Yanmar YM1900 for the past 25 years. It is a 1975 ish year model and has about 1500 hours on it. Just keep the filters and oil changed and no problems. It's a good machine.
I have owned and worked hard a Yanmar YM1900 for the past 25 years. It is a 1975 ish year model and has about 1500 hours on it. Just keep the filters and oil changed and no problems. It's a good machine.