Oil & Fuel Yanmar 1300d wont start

[lakroy]

I hope someone can help me - I am at my wit's end. I cannot get my 1300d to start. I followed all of the instructions for bleeding the system and am getting good fuel flow at the bleed screw at the injection pump. However, I don't believe I am getting high pressure at the injectors. I have loosened the connection at the injector and get just a small amount of fuel. I even pulled out the delivery pipe from one of the injectors and there was not a high pressure spray. Could it be a bad injection pump or governor? How can I test them and what do you have to do to repair. Or am I missing something simple. Any help greatly appreciated.

Thanks

 

[puresol]

I hope someone can help me - I am at my wit's end. I cannot get my 1300d to start. I followed all of the instructions for bleeding the system and am getting good fuel flow at the bleed screw at the injection pump. However, I don't believe I am getting high pressure at the injectors. I have loosened the connection at the injector and get just a small amount of fuel. I even pulled out the delivery pipe from one of the injectors and there was not a high pressure spray. Could it be a bad injection pump or governor? How can I test them and what do you have to do to repair. Or am I missing something simple. Any help greatly appreciated.

Thanks

I have a 1700 and just went through a starting problem. Im not sure how similar they are but heres my two cents. When I bled my lines at the injector I saw a distinct spurt, spurt, spurt. I would not describe it as appearing to be under high pressure, but there was definately force behind it because it wasnt just dripping, drip, drip, drip. My problem wasnt fuel it was electrical. Check your electrical connection, then check them again. Check the ground to the frame, clean every connection you can. My problem was a bad (stripped) bolt on the starter that didnt allow a good connection.

 

[Scotty Dive]

i would be interested in what is was doing before you bled the lines? Did you do a fuel filter change - why? Normal maintenance or was there a problem? did you bleed all three places?

 

[lakroy]

I hope someone can help me - I am at my wit's end. I cannot get my 1300d to start. I followed all of the instructions for bleeding the system and am getting good fuel flow at the bleed screw at the injection pump. However, I don't believe I am getting high pressure at the injectors. I have loosened the connection at the injector and get just a small amount of fuel. I even pulled out the delivery pipe from one of the injectors and there was not a high pressure spray. Could it be a bad injection pump or governor? How can I test them and what do you have to do to repair. Or am I missing something simple. Any help greatly appreciated.

Thanks

I Was having difficulty starting and looked at the fuel filter. It looked ok so I reassembled and topped off the fuel tank. I bled at the two screws on the fuel filter and at the injection pump and at the injectors. The starting system is good - cranks strong.

 

[284 International]

This is not meant to be patronizing: Is the throttle set to maximum? If not, the pump will not be sending large amounts of fuel through the high pressure lines in the first place.

Is the tractor puffing smoke when you try to start it? Smoke means you are getting fuel but not enough heat in the combustion chamber.

Insufficient heat in the combustion chamber is from low compression, basically. Your compression release may be dragging a bit or hung open. You could have worn rings or a scratched cylinder bore, or something else may be amiss.

 

[Scotty Dive]

So it was hard starting before you changed the fuel filter but it would start and now it doesn't? Whats the condition of the air filter? If dirty or clogged that might be an issue - I would remove it for the time being or replace it with a new one - (BTW, get one from Hoye as theirs is guaranteed to fit) Black smoke like 284 indicated means unburnt fuel - which means you are getting fuel. You said the starting system is strong, so its turning over fast enough, but are you using the decompression release to get the fly wheel spinning fast enough? Throttle set all the way open (towards you). And are you sure you have all of the air outof the fuel system...I have made this mistake too and forgot to do the bleeder screw on the pump. Yanmar Tractor Fuel Bleeding Procedure

 

[lakroy]

So it was hard starting before you changed the fuel filter but it would start and now it doesn't? Whats the condition of the air filter? If dirty or clogged that might be an issue - I would remove it for the time being or replace it with a new one - (BTW, get one from Hoye as theirs is guaranteed to fit) Black smoke like 284 indicated means unburnt fuel - which means you are getting fuel. You said the starting system is strong, so its turning over fast enough, but are you using the decompression release to get the fly wheel spinning fast enough? Throttle set all the way open (towards you). And are you sure you have all of the air outof the fuel system...I have made this mistake too and forgot to do the bleeder screw on the pump. Yanmar Tractor Fuel Bleeding Procedure

Yes it would start before. In fact, I did the bleeding procedure and it started. Then I reassembled all the small parts (brackets, shields, air filter) and now it won't start. I redid the bleeding procedure including the two screws at the fuel filter and the screw at the pump. I removed the line at the injector and observed the fuel flow. It appears like a rather weak stream to me. The frequency of the fuel pulses varies with the throttle position (faster when full back toward the operator and slower forward). Yes I do have the throttle full on. I did pull the decompression release to let it build up speed. I tried tapping the pump while spinning as has been suggested elsewhere. I get some gray smoke while cranking.

Thanks

 

[284 International]

The frequency of the fuel pulses varies with the throttle position (faster when full back toward the operator and slower forward).

The frequency shouldn't change with throttle position, only the volume of fuel emitted from the pipes.

The fact that you get grey smoke means there is some combustion occurring. I'm suspicious that there is air in the system in spite of your bleeding. If the tractor runs fine, and ran properly before, undoing the fuel filter and affiliated lines didn't damage the pump mechanically. Reassembling the hoses and filter body didn't, either. The only thing left is some sort of embolism from an air bubble, or a plug somewhere of gunk.

I would suggest re-bleeding the system once more until all the air bubbles stop. Inspect the fuel inlet of the injection pump, and make sure nothing is blocking that port. Then, with both injector lines loosened, crank the engine with the compression release activated until all the bubbles cease from around the injectors, and only fuel emerges. Others say this step is unnecessary; I believe them, but have had faster results, personally, doing it this way.

Good luck, and stick with it. It will run again! Just don't get frustrated and try to speed the process by squirting ether or some other starting aid into the engine.

 

[lakroy]

The frequency shouldn't change with throttle position, only the volume of fuel emitted from the pipes.

The fact that you get grey smoke means there is some combustion occurring. I'm suspicious that there is air in the system in spite of your bleeding. If the tractor runs fine, and ran properly before, undoing the fuel filter and affiliated lines didn't damage the pump mechanically. Reassembling the hoses and filter body didn't, either. The only thing left is some sort of embolism from an air bubble, or a plug somewhere of gunk.

I would suggest re-bleeding the system once more until all the air bubbles stop. Inspect the fuel inlet of the injection pump, and make sure nothing is blocking that port. Then, with both injector lines loosened, crank the engine with the compression release activated until all the bubbles cease from around the injectors, and only fuel emerges. Others say this step is unnecessary; I believe them, but have had faster results, personally, doing it this way.

Good luck, and stick with it. It will run again! Just don't get frustrated and try to speed the process by squirting ether or some other starting aid into the engine.

Thanks for the advice. I think you are right. I looked at the fuel line from the filter to the pump and it is old and very brittle and may be letting air in at the hose nipple. I will replace the line and re-bleed per your instructions. I'll post my results. Thanks again!

 

[lakroy]

Thanks for the advice. I think you are right. I looked at the fuel line from the filter to the pump and it is old and very brittle and may be letting air in at the hose nipple. I will replace the line and re-bleed per your instructions. I'll post my results. Thanks again!

Thanks again for the advice and encouragement. I replaced all of the fuel line and bled per your instructions and it started pretty easily. Many thanks!