X500/K72 Tuff Torque leak up high---gas tank removal

[al3]

Thanks for the unique perspective. I grew up on a dairy farm outside of Juneau.


New plug is in, filled. Plug I removed was the early style, all rubber top. With any luck the replacement will hold up longer.


I have a range of grease/lube available to coat the input shaft with; High pressure, low pressure, high and low temp, brake lube, moly assembly lube, anti seize. What would you recommend?

Here's an after shot, nice and clean, non leaking plug (hopefully) installed

 

[tomplum]

Is the misses going to be mad you used her toothbrush? Wow! nice and clean. If you have moly, use it. Most times they have nothing, but I agree it is a good idea.

 

[dadohead]

Wow... practically neighbors!

The line uses JD green polyurea grease. I use that because it's what I have in the gun. I wish there was a better solution. I talked with Tuff Torq about them changing to something like a tapered input shaft (eliminate the micro-motion that creates the fretting). It's a touchy thing though. They own the design and it meets goals so..... can't just call the baby ugly ;<)

Next time mine is off for service, I've thought about trying to install a grease zerk somehow. Giving it a regular grease hit would make it last forever. Prolly couldn't get access to it though. Or something more permanent than grease that would fill the clearances but still allow disassembly? IDK

 

[dadohead]

I'll probably try wheel bearing grease next time... that should stay awhile!

 

[tomplum]

A touch of anything I think is a good idea. Moly is used on splined driveshafts so that's why I brought that up. I don't think lube is even referenced in the service manuals. Interesting that Deere used it on initial assembly. Most don't seem to. TT ships them dry on the K46's I've gotten. The nice thing about an X5 is that the pulley splines don't fail near to the degree as the lighter X3.

 

[tonythec]

Finally getting to this; good winter project.



Turns out it isn’t the shaft end seal, rather the small (1 3/8 dia or so) rubber plug located on the cases’ top side. (see red pen tip) Rubber is cracked, fluid had the appearance of oozing from the cracks, but at 20 degrees not a lot of oozing to be done, at least quickly. Seems like an odd design for a plug.....View attachment 2376126View attachment 2376127View attachment 2376128



Looked at both JD and Tuff Torque site. From pictures of the replacement parts I’m assuming its a press in? Anyone replace and use either the Deere or TT part and care to evaluate?



Access was indeed pretty straightforward. Bolts/seat switch harness removed as suggested above. For anyone else doing this, you’ll need to unload the drive belt tension by removing its spring. Impact wrench on fan nut will release it and the pulley. Also need to remove two fuel hoses from tank fittings.

I have the EXACT same problem. I have removed almost everything but would appreciate any advice if one doesn't own an impact wrench. I am having an issue removing the fan. Any advice is welcomed.

 

[beenthere]

Welcome Tony to TBN

If all you lack is an impact "wrench", then I myself would use this as an excuse to own one. It's how I ended up with a lot of tools.

Tell us more about your situation, and some photos of just where you are at and what is holding you up. Some good assistance may be forthcoming from the knowledgeable members here.

 

[al3]

Way back in college days when I couldn’t afford much of anything and my 1975 RD-350 needed maintenance, I’d use a long handled socket wrench (aka breaker bar) and a rubber hammer as an impact wrench substitute. Trick was to give very firm, hard, raps to the end of the bar to induce the momentary torque on the subject fitting.



Given your X500 output shaft is free to rotate, the rap(s) would have to be quick and forceful. Maybe add a strap wrench to hold the outside of the pulley….. Before going this route review the posts discusses output shaft splines stripping.



As mentioned, a good time to invest in an impact wrench. Inexpensive electric ones at the tool store a lot of folks don’t like are priced in the $40 price range.



Good luck

 

[Richard001]

I have the EXACT same problem. I have removed almost everything but would appreciate any advice if one doesn't own an impact wrench. I am having an issue removing the fan. Any advice is welcomed.

OK this post was not thought out very well. Tony will have to find a way to remove the nut holding the fan/pully on first. Still will need an impact tool.

Then, if the pully is stuck, see below.

On post # 8
al3
Said: When disassembling noticed the input pulley had provision to attach a puller (two 180 degree spaced threaded holes) but none was needed.

If you don't want to purchase an impact gun, you maybe able to use the threaded holes and a gear puller.