X495 cracked transaxle & diff lock

[Yamezz]

Guys,

I have found an inch long crack in my transaxle, which has apparently been slowly leaking oil, but today turned into a gush. I've also noticed an intermittent problem with the diff locking itself spontaneously, coupled with the odd loud click.

I can't tell whether the crack is a result of a the transaxle casing being pushed in from an impact or pushed out. Pushed out doesn't seem likely to me, but I can't see any evidence of grounding the casing on anything. How likely is it something in my diff has broken and pushed the casing out?

 

[kjung17]

Assuming that machine is still under warranty, I would take it right back to the dealer. It sounds like you've got something floating around in there. That section of the casting houses the ring gear. Something likely wedged in there and cracked the housing.

 

[Dutch445]

OUCH!
looks like parts of the diff lock broke,
has it been leaking for a while?

do you use the diff lock often?

 

[beenthere]

Doesn't look good.
The comment "apparently been slowly leaking oil" seems a bit ambiguous. Have you been noticing oil under the tranny prior to the gushing, or not? ??

Also, interested in the answer to diff lock usage.

Hope you find an easy and cheap solution.

 

[Yamezz]

I use the diff lock a fair bit, as a lot of my tractor use is with the FEL in sandy soil. To explain the oil leak; I noticed the oil was low on the dip stick, so topped it up. I checked the oil again a few days later and had to put in another 200mL. I checked where I usually park the machine and there was very little oil on the ground, so I parked it on the concrete. Nothing dripped out. I then ran the engine for a bit, but again I couldn't see any dripping oil. However later on I was doing some FEL work and noticed a trail of oil on the ground. When I stopped to look underneath that's when I saw a rapidly growing puddle and towed the machine back out of the paddock.

 

[Dutch445]

unfortunately, the rare incidences of diff failure
that I have seen have been on tractors with the FEL.
sandy soil or not, maybe you accidentally engaged
the diff lock while 1 wheel was spinning. can't really
say what the cause was, only that unfortunately it
won't be a cheap repair. worth searching for a used
tranny if poss.

 

[Chuck Oppermann]

Ouch, that hurts. I had a similar problem about 3 years ago with a X595. I was grubbing tree roots and stumps and things with the blade. I had 2 sets of weights on with chains. I also had a dirt scoop on the rear full of dirt for more traction. I am pretty big so traction wasn't a problem after all that. I would use the diff. lock often for more pushing power and I was amazed at what I could push, until the trans-axle cracked, like yours. Luckily I had about two months on the warranty and they covered it. The representative asked if I used the diff. lock quite a bit and I told him I did, but I obviously didn't tell him all that other stuff. He said that's probably what caused it to crack, over use.

I know these are beefy tractors, but after it was replaced on warranty I didn't put the wood to it anymore. After a potential $3500 hit, I woulnd't risk it anymore. On top of all that, when I was dragging the thing out of the woods, I backed my new GMC dually into a 5" tree and creamed a fender. All that in 15 minutes. That's not the worst part. I had to come in and tell my wife what I was doing. I think alimony should be done in about 15 years.

I heard from some sources that although JD makes all that earth moving stuff for these garden tractors, they aren't durable enough to handle that type of work. When I got my 595, I looked at the rear end and thought to myself it sure looks whimpier than the old 318's and 420's. But that was my impression at first. I still love JD and will always have one or a few. but they have their limits. Mine did.

 

[Yamezz]

Thanks Dutch & Chuck. By the sounds of it it's a pretty delicate part. The tractor's done 385 hours and I wouldn't have thought a diff would break in that time.

Dutch, what sort of hours use do you think the other units you've seen with broken diffs would have had?

 

[jenkinsph]

I suspect the age has little to do with it. I have a new X749 which is similar in durability, could have bought the X748 with a loader option but didn't think it was heavy enough. I think heavy work will tear any of these mowers up in short order, best to use them for light duty tasks.

I agree with others to contact Tuff Torq to see what the possibilities are. You may also be able to remove everything from the housing and weld it back together then reassemble it. I'm no aluminum expert but someone who is should be able to determine if this will work.


If it is still in warranty I would get it to the dealer right away.

 

[k0ua]

You should be able to TIG weld, it. But first you have to get the broken parts out of the dif.. Of course you want the diff lock fixed while you are in there. it has just wedged a broken part between the ring gear and the case and pushed the crack into the case. I fixed an old transaxle on a mower once by going back in the field and finding the broken case piece and using JB Weld to "weld-glue" it back together. filled it with fluid and used if for a couple more years. the part broken was a partial tooth off a gear and it fell out when the case cracked. Now you could also JB Weld your case too. to prevent the fluid from coming out, but I would think you would want a good sturdy repair like TIG welding of the aluminum instead of some epoxy cement like JB Weld, but I will have to admit the JB Weld did hold up. Either way you will have to clean the alum very very good either to TIG it or to JB Weld it. I think I used lacquer thinner, and several appllications of that to get the edges clean enough to "glue" back together. I say give it a try.
James K0UA

 

[joes_427_vette]

No doubt the alum casting can be welded but warpage will still be present. If there is a web holding a pilot shaft or bearing your looking at another failure in the future. With a weld the resale value takes a huge hit. Fix it right with a new or used casting and hopefully it will last. It doesn't look that difficult to disassemble.

 

[Dutch445]

As others said, it's not hours as much as the usage.
I think sometimes we overuse our equipment unknowingly.
Lord knows I have pushed quite hard with my tractor,
diff lock engaged, back and forth, to try to push up
rocks out of the ground etc.
You may be able to find a used transmission, and
just swap out the whole unit. I'm sure any from
X475-X485-X495 would work, and maybe others.
there may be some high hour units that engines have
wore out that might leave a good transaxle for sale.

 

[beenthere]

I never use the diff lock unless I am stuck with one wheel in the air not making ground contact. And would not use it if needing to get extra push or pull.
Also, wouldn't go overboard with ballast weight. Regular recommended ballast. These tractors are tanks, but have their limits. I don't want the expense of going beyond the limits such as a cracked/broken transaxle.

I would prefer individual brakes to gain the traction needed, but such are not available on this size tractor.

eBay has parted out trannies that I've noticed. CL might be another place to search. Wish you good luck solving the broken tranny.

 

[Deadman]

Is it possible to bend the hubs or axles on these? My X475 has a horrible wobble when you drive it on dry pavement. It moves up and down in the rear. I thought it was bent wheels, so I replaced the wheels and tires, and it still down it.
I have tried to put a stick on the hubs as they spin, and they seem perfectly straight, yet it still wobbles when you drive it.
Is it possible the wheels are that bad right from JD? I bought the 26 12 12's that have the gator tires on them. they bite good in snow, and are easy on lawn.

 

[Yamezz]

Could it be flat spotted tyres? I know mine flat spot if the tractor doesn't move for a few days. After a bit of running around they go back to shape, but if I drive on concrete first thing I sure notice the up and down movement.

 

[Yamezz]

Thanks for all the info guys. I've contacted my dealer, but the machine is 20 months out of warranty. The dealer's going to see what he can do.

 

[kjung17]

Did a little research. That housing is pricey. $626.20, part # AM881108. Of course that doesn't include the parts that caused the problem.

 

[Yamezz]

Just heard from the dealer. They reckon a whole new transmission is A$6,300. They say John Deere will pay 1/3, they'll pay 1/3 and I'll pay 1/3. Although I have a 2WD tractor the transmission they'll replace it with is a 4WD one. The dealer says JD put 4WD transmissions in all these tractors now, whether they're 2WD or 4WD.

I wonder if the dealer offering to pay 1/3 has anything to do with the fact that they've been supplying me with the wrong oil all this time. When I should have been using Low Viscosity Hygard J20D, they were supplying me Hygard J20C. I didn't think they'd make such a mistake, so I never bothered to check if it was the correct oil. They didn't realise there were two viscosities, so it seems I wasn't the only one getting the wrong oil.

Would thicker oil have put more strain on the transmission?

 

[IH3444]

I tend to think not. I'm almost sure though that the 4wd trans has more internal, and external webbing, and also thickness to the injection casting. Hence, it's just stronger. Not a recall, but a problem tha JD is most likely aware of, and replacing with a 4wd unit is their fix.

 

[Yamezz]

Thanks for the info.

The dealer has just picked up my machine. He says they're replacing the whole rear end. He described it to me as basically everything between the two rear wheels. Other than this hiccup I've been really happy with my little tractor, so hopefully it's smooth sailing once I get it back.