Workmaster 35, wont start **UPDATE Fixed see post 18**

[dlctcg]

One other thought... Have you checked / tested your battery cables? These were a common problem on older NH machines so I can not personally say it is an issue on a 2013 machine, but might be something you want to check. The cables were known for corroding internally (unseen), which caused resistance in the cables & causing all types of problems,

Here is info from one of my pervious post... not sure it is an issue but might be worth a check....

Cable Test:
Older New Holland battery cables often corrode inside the terminal where it is sometimes impossible to see; not sure it was an issue with your particular yr / model... You will often have voltage so everything seems good. (gauges & all are working). So you will have voltage but they will not supply the required Amperage.

You can test if there is an issue with your existing battery cables pretty simply.

Remove the negative battery cable & then take a negative jumper cable wire and place it on the bare negative post of your tractor battery. Connect the other end to a solid clean ground of the tractor (bare metal location). Try starting the tractor & see if that makes a difference...

If that doesn't change anything you can do the same process on the positive post. Disconnect the Negative jumper from the Battery terminal. Then using your positive jumper cable attach one end to where the positive battery cable connects to the starter (connect this end first), and the other end to the positive battery post (last). Make sure the jumper cable is not able to arc to near by metal. Now reconnect the Negative jumper cable to the battery & try starting the tractor again & see if that changes anything...

Doing this process you basically bypassed the battery cables on the machine, and then can troubleshoot from there. I wouldn't put any more parts on it till I checked the factory cables...


Also check to see what voltage you are getting at the starter solenoid.... below is from a pervious post....


Starter Solenoid:
Make sure you have 12V at the starter solenoid when you turn the key to START...

If you see voltage only sometime I'm thinking it either a spotty ground or Ignition switch.

If you are see voltage Each time to turn the key yo the START position but it is less than 12V this will definitely cause an inconsistent starting issue. This circuit shares the voltage source this the glow plug timer (& I believe passes through some of the safety switches). Overtime the wiring & connection get dirty / lose there ability to pass the voltage. You can modify the current wiring & add a dedicated relay for supplying direct power to the starter solenoid via the same circuits. I did this on our TC40D & it made a big difference for our machine

 

[thclimer]

While my 2003 TC33D is a much older tractor the modification for the dedicated relay to the starter and a more robust (NAPA) ignition switch fixed all my starting issues.

 

[Scott Clearman]

Thanks guys. The main issue is I get no voltage at all to the starter solenoid. It's not a low voltage issue, its no voltage. I have power to the starter, power to the fuse box, and power to the safety controller. I did find the proximity switch was not working, it did not complete the path to ground in any position. I have a new proximity switch ordered. I have tested all the safeties; clutch, brake, seat and of course the forward and reverse which failed.

 

[elginnewholland]

UPDATE: So I got the manual and went through some tests. Found that the proximity switch on the forward/reverse shifter was bad. BUT, based on what I could see from the test procedure, I should have been able to use a jumper and bypass the switch. The bypass did not work, still no start.
I suspect that there are still other issues, which at this point can almost only mean the safety controller. But I'm holding out hope.
For now, I have a proximity switch ordered and I'm waiting for it before I test or do anything else.

Please update us on what you found. I'm tracking the same thing down now. workmaster 50 2016 model. I've pretty much tested ll switch ( operator presence , clutch pedal , and neutral switch on left side of the tunnel )

I'm going to retest the clutch-switch since the plunger feels like it' sticky or the smaller spring does not have enough tension. It hard to test that switch by myself since it below left foot panel.I'm going to look over the starter connections also.

tractor was running great 6 days ago and always have started up with zero issues.

 

[elginnewholland]

A update, my problem was a loose spade connector on the starter. My 1st pass around , it look like it was secured but I did a 2nd full check of components.

I'm going to blame my cats on this, they been playing and crawling around my tractor. I bet they where on the loader arms and climb down and pull that harness.

 

[thclimer]

A update, my problem was a loose spade connector on the starter. My 1st pass around , it look like it was secured but I did a 2nd full check of components.

I'm going to blame my cats on this, they been playing and crawling around my tractor. I bet they where on the loader arms and climb down and pull that harness.

Isn't it always the little things!

So glad you found the issue and thanks for letting us know what it was.

 

[Scott Clearman]

Oh boy, this just wont end.....
So, I'm still down. I have the service manual downloaded. going through the troubleshooting for the wont start issue, I've checked everything down to the control module. I have replaced the proximity switch on the forward/reverse lever because it did test out bad. That was replaced and sill no start. according to the manual, it all came down to the control module being bad. I have now received and replaced the control module and.....still no start. I am holding out hope that the battery is low, since it hasn't been run in weeks and to be honest the last time i worked on it I left the key on a while after.

I have checked all the fuses, everything. My plan is to give the battery a good charge and try again. If that doesnt get me going, all I can think to do is get my multi-meter and go through everything wire by wire. I can only assume there is some broken wire somewhere.

This is really, and I mean really the most frustrating thing I have had to deal with in a long long time.

 

[Scott Clearman]

******************UPDATE FOUND IT**************

I found it, and it wasn't anything I had looked for or frankly had even been suggested, by that I mean it wasn't a connector pulled loose. It was a torn wiring harness, above the rear axel passenger side:

This is what it looked like, the black protective sheath around the wires was just kind of crumpled, it didn't even look bad until I touched it and could see the wires were completely torn apart:

So, 3 wires, blue, green and red/white. Got them back together and that solved it. Looks like the straps holding the harness are pulled too. I'm guessing something got wraped around the harness and pulled hard enough to tear the wires.

Hope this helps someone else.

 

[Midniteoyl]

So frustrated he ripped his seat out..

Also, I am tripping looking at what appears to be 2 different sized rear tire...


Glad you found it.

 

[Scott Clearman]

So frustrated he ripped his seat out..

Also, I am tripping looking at what appears to be 2 different sized rear tire...


Glad you found it.

Well, as a general rule I mow and plow in circles. so there's that....