Work lights

/ Work lights #1  

ST98

Bronze Member
Joined
Jul 18, 2012
Messages
75
Location
Eastern,PA
Tractor
Kubota L3540
Good morning, I had to run the 3540 the other night to push a burn pile together. I noticed with the fel on that the headlights didn't do a whole lot. I have the fiberglass canopy and would like to put a couple of work lights on it. Has anyone mounted forward work lights with the canopy? If so could you share your knowledge or pictures on how you did it. The rear facing ones will be easier.

Thanks for the help
 
/ Work lights #2  
I think Kubota offers a front light option for the canopy, check that out.
 
/ Work lights #4  
I have a John Deere, but lights are lights. You can go with the factory option, but mounting them may, or may not be any easier or effective. I picked up a set of lights from my dealer. Although, you can get some from any auto parts store. LED lights are definitely much brighter, but more expensive as well. A couple of issues that I faced:

1. Where to connect the ground wire - I ran it all the way back the ROPS posts.
2. Tie into existing light switch or install separate on/off switch - I decided to install a separate switch so that I can turn on the work lights without turning on the rest of the lights (flashers, dashlights, etc)
3. The vibration will cause the beam to drift down - rather than install the lights above the canopy, I hung them below. Over time, the brackets loosen due to the vibration and the beams will illuminate the area immediately around the tractor rather than out ahead. It hasn't been a problem yet, but when the snow season hits I may have to figure something out, or go with a different type of bracket.

My JD canopy has a flat spot on each side of the canopy with reflective tape. They look like faux lights, so it seemed the logical spot to hang the work lights. I just drilled a hole in the fiberglass to hang the bracket and then ran the wire to the battery. Another option is to run the hot wire to the fuse box. I do not have any pictures, but will get some this weekend and post, if it would be helpful.
 
Last edited:
/ Work lights #5  
I put a work light in the back of my little BX. I just want to urge you to spend a little more now and get LED lights. They last forever, and more importantly, they draw far less current. This makes the job easier from a fuse and wiring perspective. You could even tap into and existing switched circuit. For example, I connected my rear light to the rear tail light circuit, so it is switched from the existing light circuit.
 
/ Work lights #6  
Everyone says get LED lights, I didn't. I got a couple of Hobbs halogen flood lights (2 forward and 1 backwards) and you're not going to need more light. I've had them for years without any problems what so ever. I don't have a canopy so mine are just clamped to the ROPS. Mounting them further forward would just make them light in front of the tractor that much better. They come in both spot and flood. The power connector under the seat for the work light can easily power a pair of them. I just used that power and put a weatherproof switch behind the Gear selector/ cruise control lever. Plus they are real cheap so if you have a branch damage one you're only out a couple of bucks.
 
/ Work lights
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Is it better to go with flood or spots? I was thinking flood would be fine for the back but not sure about the front. When moving snow in the winter I can see the headlight on the machine will be good when the fel is down but when your pushing up it seems the fel will block them.

I'm thinking separate switches for front and back lights. I can run a ground up from the bottom in the loom.
 
/ Work lights #8  
Spot lights are good for a car or truck where you need to see more than 100 feet in front of you. But since you're never going to be going fast enough floods will work better. Plus spot lights don't light the sides very well where as the flood lights do.
 
/ Work lights
  • Thread Starter
#9  
I think Kubota offers a front light option for the canopy, check that out.

I've been milling around the net looking for this option and can't seem to find what they look like or price. You wouldn't happen to have a link would you?

Thanks
 
/ Work lights #10  
I've been milling around the net looking for this option and can't seem to find what they look like or price. You wouldn't happen to have a link would you?

Thanks

No pictures per say but you can price them through the build it page. If you look at the TLB section they show pictures of the canopy on the TLB with lights. I recon they will be close to that.
 
/ Work lights #11  
I had the same problem with my 3240,the factory headlights weren't much use with the FEL.I installed halogen worklights on the rollbar and it was a definite improvement but I found the light bothered me being so close to the back of my head.I later added a Kubota canopy with Grote LED lights forward on the canopy bracket.I found this to be a much better setup as the lights didn't bother my vision and were easier to aim in the front of the tractor.I considered the Kubota lights but every picture of them I looked at showed them on top of the canopy which would make it easier to rip them off on tree limbs.I mounted my lights under the canopy where they are more protected but don't interfere with my daytime vision.Hope this helps.
 

Attachments

  • P1000941.jpg
    P1000941.jpg
    200.1 KB · Views: 414
/ Work lights #12  
This is how I mounted my Grote lights. I have them where they will work forwards or backwards.

003-5.jpg 091.jpg
 
/ Work lights #13  
If you go with a led you will probably want a spot. If you go with a halogen a trapezoidal light may be a good option.
 
/ Work lights #14  
One reason for using LEDs is lower power draw, right? When you get the cab, standard with work lights, you get a larger alternator. Too much light and you can draw down your battery with a lot of night operation. For a given power the numbers I have seen show a 3 times light output for LEDs and 5 to 6 times output for HID although LEDs last forever unless someone shoots them out and HIDs are more costly and are rather delicate. We have an HID option that lights everything around you like it was working under the sun. I have the factory halogen lights on my cab, good for loader work but I'm going to find something better.
 
/ Work lights #15  
I just finished putting a canopy and lights onto my L4200. I got 55W 4x6 white halogen fog lights at Autozone for $25 a pair. A friend gave me a canopy off of his Massey, which was cracked due to a tree falling on it. I re-set and welded the support bar to be at the right angle for my tractor, fixed the cracks in the canopy with zip-ties and epoxy, then spray painted the canopy orange.

I put a pair of lights facing forward and a pair facing backwards. I mounted the lights to the top of the canopy, using the canopy mounting bolts. That way, if I ever take the canopy off, I can leave the metal structure to use as a light bar, and nothing will change with the lighting setup.

110W lights pull about 8-9A, so even if I turn on both front and back, loading is less than 20A - I'd assume any tractor can handle 20A of lighting. Normal operation would only require running one set of lights, however, so normal nighttime draw is <10A, which is nothing for the alternator.

I did all of the wiring using 12ga outdoor lighting wire, which is perfect for this application for obvious reasons, and run all 4 lights on a common 30A fused circuit. I don't have pics handy, but will try to remember to post them later. Cost for the whole canopy/lighting project was about $60 for the lights and spray paint. It looks great.

JayC
 
/ Work lights #16  
The power needed for 2 50w lights isn't an issue for the GL line of tractors. The GL open station tractors have a 40 amp alternator.
 
/ Work lights #17  
I would love tp join the LED club, but because of the cost I want to see some LED's in person before plunking down a lot of dollars. Because of thet I use inexpensive 55W halogen floods from TSC. I've been using 2 facing forward and one back for over 20 years on the Ford 1210, the B7500 and now the L3200. They are fender-mounted on tthe Ford. On the B7500 they were on steel "L" brackets attached to the loader frame. That worked well for lighting and also kept the bugs away from my head on summer evenings.

They're on the ROPS on the L3200. The lighting has a better pattern around the tractor since they are mounted so high. I do need to keep them pointed outward so they don't shine in my face. Bugs have been more noticeable when mowing after dark.

B7500 Lites.jpgL3200 Lights.jpg
 
/ Work lights #18  
I have a couple of LED lights from tractor help.com mounted to my front end loader. I mounted them right to where the front cylinders mount (the stationary side of the cylinder). The lights go up and down with the loader, but it's nice to have the option to aim them, and when you have the loader up enough that the lights don't do as much, your headlights are shining under the loader on where you want to go. It's nice to be able to illuminate everything and have some control over where they are points.
 

Marketplace Items

LandHonor 19 Gallon Sand Blasting Cabinet (A62183)
LandHonor 19...
2015 Ford Escape SUV (A61574)
2015 Ford Escape...
LandHonor 1" Air Impact (A62183)
LandHonor 1" Air...
3 TON FLOOR JACK (A63569)
3 TON FLOOR JACK...
2019 ISUZU NRR 4X2 S/A 6 COMPARMENT  BEVERAGE TRUCK (A59910)
2019 ISUZU NRR 4X2...
BOX LOADING HOIST DISASSEMBLED FOR HAULING (A63290)
BOX LOADING HOIST...
 
Top