Woodmaxx Snowblower Shear Bolts?

[shaeff]

Great video, couldn’t have said it better.

I always look for the u-joints to be parallel, and that the angles aren’t excessive. Assuming that the joints are in phase, you *should* be good to go.

 

[atsah]

Maybe I misunderstood what you were saying. I made the assumption, my mistake, that you were saying the blower is level when in the lowered position but tipped back when in the raised position. If that were the case the PTO shafts would be at the same angle to each other (aligned) when in the lowered position but not at the same angle to each other (aligned) in the raised position.

The height of the tractor PTO and the blower input shaft make no difference in the angle of the PTO shafts but does make a difference in the angle of the driveline. Any of my discussion has been in reference to the angle of the PTO shafts to each other, not the angle of the driveline.

I'v never had a gift for words so I am probably creating some confusion.

I think we are on the same page..

 

[Fallon]

The other good one is the chart at https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...ormand-inverted-snowblower-4.html#post4360886. You can run the U-joints at a steeper angle, but their lifespan drops dramatically the sharper that angle is. Not related to your blower, but the fundamentals apply to all PTO shafts, even if the number of hours or picture doesn't.

Bigger/taller fans match taller tractors MUCH better & don't cause the steep PTO shaft angles that wear out U-joints. Smaller fans match smaller machines. All things considered you want bigger fans for more throw distance though.

 

[Bear Tree Farm]

Guys,
Thank you very much, I will move the lower lift arms to the bottom holes of the the blower and then adjust the toplink. This is all good information and being a desk jocky all my life and new to tractor owner, I will take all the help I can get. After I destroyed what I think was a series 4 Driveline that came with the blower earlier this season, I bought a series 5 driveline and was able to use my blower on my entire road (half mile long) without shearing a bolt. But then the next time I go through at least 6 bolts per use. So I am hoping that making these adjustments will solve my problem or at least reduce it to one or two bolts per outing. Will keep everyone posted after the next round of snow.

 

[atsah]

Guys,
Thank you very much, I will move the lower lift arms to the bottom holes of the the blower and then adjust the toplink. This is all good information and being a desk jocky all my life and new to tractor owner, I will take all the help I can get. After I destroyed what I think was a series 4 Driveline that came with the blower earlier this season, I bought a series 5 driveline and was able to use my blower on my entire road (half mile long) without shearing a bolt. But then the next time I go through at least 6 bolts per use. So I am hoping that making these adjustments will solve my problem or at least reduce it to one or two bolts per outing. Will keep everyone posted after the next round of snow.

If you get it adjusted right, (and it looks like you're headed in the right direction) you shouldn't break any..

 

[Bear Tree Farm]

Okay I made the adjustment and took some measurements per https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...ml#post4360886 which came out to A=26" B=14.5" and L=23" which gave me a F factor of 2. So I would estimate my working angle to be about 27 degrees. But everything looks good I think in 3 positions, Raised height, Mid Height and working level. I am actually looking forward to the next snow due tonight. It will be funny now that I think I am ready, it does not snow but a inch or two. :laughing: Thank you all so much KanakaRick for starting this thread and to all that provided inputs and responded. This wanna be country boy (aka old man) is grateful.

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

Looking at the picture, it looks like you could shorten up your top link a little bit more, and level out the blower completely.

 

[PEJ5]

KanataRick:. I have learned a great deal from your thread. Thank you. Angles, parallelagrams, and PTO shaft phasing - that was a big one. I feel like I owe you. I'll bring you some shear pins the next time I am in Ottawa, but I guess you will not need them!
Here are a couple of photos of my DK5010 and a blower not rated for 50hp. There is 9" of offset between my tractor PTO and the blower input. My angles seem tolerable and so far in my first winter with this setup I have not broken a pin.
Let us know if you make it through a storm without breaking one!!!

 

[atsah]

Looking at the picture, it looks like you could shorten up your top link a little bit more, and level out the blower completely.

Yup shorten it up a little more..

 

[Fallon]

Guys,
Thank you very much, I will move the lower lift arms to the bottom holes of the the blower and then adjust the toplink. This is all good information and being a desk jocky all my life and new to tractor owner, I will take all the help I can get. After I destroyed what I think was a series 4 Driveline that came with the blower earlier this season, I bought a series 5 driveline and was able to use my blower on my entire road (half mile long) without shearing a bolt. But then the next time I go through at least 6 bolts per use. So I am hoping that making these adjustments will solve my problem or at least reduce it to one or two bolts per outing. Will keep everyone posted after the next round of snow.

A key thing is you want the sheer pin to break. If it doesnt break, something else much more expensive will. Assuming of course you have the right grade & size of sheer pin & the hole it goes in isn't wallered out. If you just put in a stronger pin (or bigger fuse) you just defeated a key safety device protecting you & your equipment.

You shouldn't expect sheer pins to break on a regular basis unless you jam your machine. My rotary cutter never popped a sheer pins in the 3 years I owned it.