wooden deck refinishing

[tstex]

Hello to all,

You guys are such a great resource, I have to run this by you all first.

We have a covered wooden deck w treated 2x6x10 boards. As would be expected, the boards that are further out that receive more rain and sun need more work. None are split so bad that they need to be replaced, while the ones that are closest to the house and receive little to no sun/rain look great.

My tentative plan is to rent a sander used for hardwood flrs and decks and take the whole deck down enough to remove superficial crack/splits and all the oxidation and previous yrs of wood sealant. I've only used the clear sealant for personal preferences.

Was seeking your advice on the best process to tackle this? After using a commercial grade sander, i'll then use my hand orbital for the tight places, then use my compressor at 120psi to blow off all the dust etc. Then use my pump-up sprayer to apply the sealant. I usually do 2 coats.

Ques: Should I use a wood cleaner/TSP, let soak in, then power wash first? My logic is if I sand off everything, the cleaner and power washer is not needed, correct?

Thank you very much.

 

[MossRoad]

Be cautious with power washer on wood. You may already know that, but I've seen folks tear up wood decking with power washers. Done a bit myself on old wood garage siding, but it was getting covered, so it was a good learning experience.

Also, very easy to NOT get even marks if you vary your speed, time, and/or distance over the wood. It's very noticeable if you don't go from end to end or end to seam or edge to edge.

We are on about years 26 on our deck. Originally just waterproofed every couple years. Then stained a couple times. Last time we put a deck paint over it due to the wood discoloration. This summer we'll either paint it again, or replace the entire thing with composite. Depends on time, budget and condition of existing deck.

Good luck with your project.

 

[tstex]

Thank you very much Moss...good pt on consistency to the approach when sanding or applying anything. Overlaps always seem to make darker anything.

The sander I am looking at does exactly 12", so that's two boards and the space btw and on the edges. I planned on doing two boards at a time from one end to the other...this would prevent overlap. From doing additional reading, I may apply sealant w a 6" roller rather than spraying. That sure gives a lot of consistency as long as the roller is evenly soaked w the same amt of sealant each time...that's the catch. I am still debating on roller vs pump up sprayer...

thanks again.

 

[Oz_Kioti]

Our 13 year old decking is Ironbark timber (Eucalyptus Paniculata) which I oil with Ultradeck. (Google "intergrain ultradeck timber oil usa"). Might be hard to get outside Australia, but there are bound to be local equivalents. Intergrain also make a preparatory cleaner - Ultraprep - which does a brilliant job of cleaning the deck prior to applying the oil. It's a mix mainly of oxalic and citric acids.

I can't use a sander on our deck as it's fastened with round-head nails which protude above the deck surface, however the cleaner does a great job.

They also recommend using a long-bristled brush for application so that the oil gets down onto the vertical sides of the decking timber. I use a long-handled one, so no "hands-n-knees" stuff!

I'm midway through the re-oiling job at present. I always wait until mid-summer (like now), with the sun pretty well directly overhead so the deck is in full shade most of the day.

Good luck with your project. Here's the brush I use:

 

[tstex]

Great. Would like to see some before and after pictures with that oil if you could...thank you.

 

[Oz_Kioti]

Great. Would like to see some before and after pictures with that oil if you could...thank you.

 

[tstex]

Very nice oz / MY father in law was from Sidney...

 

[Highlandr]

Look up "pressure washer surface cleaner".

You do NOT need one with wheels.

 

[EddieWalker]

Never pressure wash a house or anything that you don't want to force water into that will remain there and grow mold.

I sand and stain one or two decks a year. I rent a 1x2 vibratory sander from a rental store or Home Depot for the day. I get 3 or 4 red pads and every 18 grit sandpaper that they have in stock. If it's a big deck, you might want to get more of both. What you don't use, you return when you return the machine.

Be sure that you have a dedicated 20 amp outlet for the sander. They want all the power they can get!!!

On most of the decks I sand, cupping is the biggest issue. The stain and flat areas are easy but getting it all nice and smooth again takes a little time.

After sanding, I use a corded leaf blower to get rid of all the dust.

I only use oil based stain from Sherwin Wiliams. I apply it with a brand new paint brush. If I don't finish staining that day, I seal the brush up in plastic and use it again every day until I'm done. I use a brush because I'm **** about getting stain in every place possible. I need to be close up to do this, and nothing works better than a paint brush.

 

[RayIN]

Avoid using a pressure-washer if at all possible. It drives dirt and grit into the wood, the softer the wood the deeper it penetrates.
I used a hard bristle scrub-brush on a long handle so I could stand and scrub the wood.
L let the wood dry for a week, then used wood filler with a 3" spackling knife to fill everything. I didn't care about any mess, because the sander removes all lumps and makes the surface smooth.
After all that work, mom sold the house a year later, so can't comment of longevity.

 

[MossRoad]

Yep, when we first sealed our deck, we used a sprayer to make sure we got into the cracks where a brush wouldn't reach. When we stained it, we did the same. However, when we painted it, we tried a roller, and that did NOT get down into the spaces between the boards, close to the railing posts, the balusters, handrails, etc.... and it was just easier to use brushes. Especially since the deck paint was so thick. Took the wife and I a few hours and gallons to do the entire deck and rails. Maybe 12 x 16.

 

[Pinecrest]

Hello to all,

You guys are such a great resource, I have to run this by you all first.

We have a covered wooden deck w treated 2x6x10 boards. As would be expected, the boards that are further out that receive more rain and sun need more work. None are split so bad that they need to be replaced, while the ones that are closest to the house and receive little to no sun/rain look great.

My tentative plan is to rent a sander used for hardwood flrs and decks and take the whole deck down enough to remove superficial crack/splits and all the oxidation and previous yrs of wood sealant. I've only used the clear sealant for personal preferences.

Was seeking your advice on the best process to tackle this? After using a commercial grade sander, i'll then use my hand orbital for the tight places, then use my compressor at 120psi to blow off all the dust etc. Then use my pump-up sprayer to apply the sealant. I usually do 2 coats.

Ques: Should I use a wood cleaner/TSP, let soak in, then power wash first? My logic is if I sand off everything, the cleaner and power washer is not needed, correct?

Thank you very much.

The nails/screws will tear up you sanding pads ....the sanding is primarily for inside wood flooring where the nails are set in the tongue. Here we turn over the aged dock boards [marine grade] when they get too rough.

 

[EddieWalker]

The nail or screws heads get shiny when sanded, but they don't have any noticeable effect on the 1ft by 2ft orbital sanders that I use on decks. Usually I'll set them deeper or pull them and install new screws before I start sanding.

 

[Edstir]

Hello to all,

You guys are such a great resource, I have to run this by you all first.

We have a covered wooden deck w treated 2x6x10 boards. As would be expected, the boards that are further out that receive more rain and sun need more work. None are split so bad that they need to be replaced, while the ones that are closest to the house and receive little to no sun/rain look great.

My tentative plan is to rent a sander used for hardwood flrs and decks and take the whole deck down enough to remove superficial crack/splits and all the oxidation and previous yrs of wood sealant. I've only used the clear sealant for personal preferences.

Was seeking your advice on the best process to tackle this? After using a commercial grade sander, i'll then use my hand orbital for the tight places, then use my compressor at 120psi to blow off all the dust etc. Then use my pump-up sprayer to apply the sealant. I usually do 2 coats.

Ques: Should I use a wood cleaner/TSP, let soak in, then power wash first? My logic is if I sand off everything, the cleaner and power washer is not needed, correct?

Thank you very much.

Hello to all,

You guys are such a great resource, I have to run this by you all first.

We have a covered wooden deck w treated 2x6x10 boards. As would be expected, the boards that are further out that receive more rain and sun need more work. None are split so bad that they need to be replaced, while the ones that are closest to the house and receive little to no sun/rain look great.

My tentative plan is to rent a sander used for hardwood flrs and decks and take the whole deck down enough to remove superficial crack/splits and all the oxidation and previous yrs of wood sealant. I've only used the clear sealant for personal preferences.

Was seeking your advice on the best process to tackle this? After using a commercial grade sander, i'll then use my hand orbital for the tight places, then use my compressor at 120psi to blow off all the dust etc. Then use my pump-up sprayer to apply the sealant. I usually do 2 coats.

Ques: Should I use a wood cleaner/TSP, let soak in, then power wash first? My logic is if I sand off everything, the cleaner and power washer is not needed, correct?

Thank you very much.

Hello to all,

You guys are such a great resource, I have to run this by you all first.

We have a covered wooden deck w treated 2x6x10 boards. As would be expected, the boards that are further out that receive more rain and sun need more work. None are split so bad that they need to be replaced, while the ones that are closest to the house and receive little to no sun/rain look great.

My tentative plan is to rent a sander used for hardwood flrs and decks and take the whole deck down enough to remove superficial crack/splits and all the oxidation and previous yrs of wood sealant. I've only used the clear sealant for personal preferences.

Was seeking your advice on the best process to tackle this? After using a commercial grade sander, i'll then use my hand orbital for the tight places, then use my compressor at 120psi to blow off all the dust etc. Then use my pump-up sprayer to apply the sealant. I usually do 2 coats.

Ques: Should I use a wood cleaner/TSP, let soak in, then power wash first? My logic is if I sand off everything, the cleaner and power washer is not needed, correct?

Thank you very much.

Just a couple of ideas. I used a residential rug cleaner double scrubber brush to clean the deck with good results. I used a medical 4 wheel scouter the kind you kneel or sit on to get around when I brushed the sides of the boards. I had both items on hand. At 82 you look for the easiest way.

 

[doneill127]

I’ve been using this for years on a couple of pressure treated decks with good results. Cleans and got rid of the grey. Think the borax helps. Also like that it doesn’t kill the grass and plants around the deck.

How to Make a Homemade Deck Cleaner That Works Like a Charm

Get a recipe for a DIY deck cleaner that's eco-safe and won't kill the plants around your deck. Application instructions also included.

www.bobvila.com

 

[ddavis317]

I think pressure wash ages decking faster, it tears wood fibers, in my experience, I found just scrubbing and hosing off fairs better, eventually I went to composite.

 

[pacerron]

More work than washing but I have a 35 year old treated deck that has been stained and looks bad. I screwed the boards down when I built it, so am in the process of flipping the boards before restaining. The flipped boards look like new. It's a do as time permits project so it's easy to work on as time permits.
Have you conidered flipping yours?

 

[JeepHead]

I'll give my two cents. I own an exterior cleaning and wood restoration business. I have cleaned and stained hundreds of decks and log/cedar homes. I am the guy the other power washing companies sends their wood customers to.

I prefer to use sodium hypochlorite when cleaning wood but it must be done carefully and diluted properly. The key to it is to first wet the wood and then clean with a heavily diluted mix, spray the mix down and let it sit for a few minutes and then start pressure washing with a fairly gentle spray (600-1000psi) in the direction of the grain. I try to do 2-4 boards at a time from one end to the other. It usually takes multiple cleanings to get it a really dirty deck clean. I try to clean it in layers as opposed to using a strong mix and trying to clean all at once. It's more work but produces a much better finish. Too much pressure or to strong of a mix and you will fur the wood and have no other option but to sand.

I spray on all of my stains but I also back roll it to push it deep into the wood.

 

[Gord Baker]

Be cautious with power washer on wood. You may already know that, but I've seen folks tear up wood decking with power washers. Done a bit myself on old wood garage siding, but it was getting covered, so it was a good learning experience.

Also, very easy to NOT get even marks if you vary your speed, time, and/or distance over the wood. It's very noticeable if you don't go from end to end or end to seam or edge to edge.

We are on about years 26 on our deck. Originally just waterproofed every couple years. Then stained a couple times. Last time we put a deck paint over it due to the wood discoloration. This summer we'll either paint it again, or replace the entire thing with composite. Depends on time, budget and condition of existing deck.

Good luck with your project.

Some composite decks show cracking after a few years. Trying to sand out cracks and splits it futile. Deck boards are unlikely to be flat. Another spray of clear/stain and Done.

 

[Quaffer]

On most of the decks I sand, cupping is the biggest issue.

Is this from installing the wrong side of the boards on the walking surface?