wood splitter

[ron65]

Recently purchased a custom made 20 ton log splitter with log lift. When I was leaving the shop I ask them for a demonstration and found hoses were reversed. Detent worked when piston was extended out, so they changed them. Traveled home (about 100 miles) and split about 2 cord, but found piston would stall out on bigger pieces. Purchased a 3,000 psi gauge (placed between pump and control valve) and found psi only 600 when piston was extended and under pressure. When piston retracted detent worked as normal and when I over road the detent to close piston more, pressure shot up over 2,000 psi. Thinking it might be the cylinder, I reversed the hoses so detent was activated when piston was fully extended (as the shop had done originally). Then over road the detent to open piston more and pressure shot up over 2,000 psi on this end.

Put hoses back so detent worked when retracting piston. Decided to play with the main relief valve setting when piston was fully extended under pressure and showing only 600 psi. Nothing changed. I could screw the adjustment screw all the way in until it bottomed out or unscrew it all the way and still no change from the 600 psi.

The valve for the log lift will quickly shoot up to 1500-2000 psi at the end of that piston stroke in either direction and acts normal.

My question is: Does this sound like the new valve is bad or plugged already?

- The pump is a 2 stage 11 gpm (The custom shop at first thought it might be the pump and sent another new one, but nothing changed from installing it)
- 6 hp Honda
- 4 x 24 cylinder
- Prince log splitter/lifter valve (RD522CCEA54B1) I presume the main relief valve setting is closest to the valve handle and the detent setting is toward the back.

Thanks in advance for your advice.

 

[J_J]

Is this the valve you have?

2 SPOOL 25 GPM PRINCE LOG SPLITTER/LIFTER VALVE

Show a picture of the valve.

First spool has a pressure release detent on the spool-out position and springs to center on the spool-in position. Second spool is 3-position spring to center. Detent pressure preset to 1,200 PSI, adjustment range 1,000-2,000 PSI.

 

[ron65]

Is this the valve you have?

2 SPOOL 25 GPM PRINCE LOG SPLITTER/LIFTER VALVE

Show a picture of the valve.

First spool has a pressure release detent on the spool-out position and springs to center on the spool-in position. Second spool is 3-position spring to center. Detent pressure preset to 1,200 PSI, adjustment range 1,000-2,000 PSI.

J-J

I have no way of sending a picture at this time (just not that internet savvy, would have to wait for my daughter to come over), but that does look like the same valve. The only difference I see in your description is when the detent engages at the pistons in position, the gauge will momentarily raise to maybe 400 or 500 psi, never 1200.

Thank you for the quick response.

 

[J_J]

After rethinking about this, I think the spool out with detent is the retract mode, and the detent release is adjustable, so what you are reading maybe detent relief, and is mis-adjusted.

The detent should be set about 500 to 600 psi below the main relief.

Swap your hoses so that the cyl will retract and kick back to neutral using the detent .

The main relief setting is from 1500 to 3000 psi

The valve comes from the factory set to 2000 psi at 10 GPM's.

This is the same valve. They are calling this valve a motor spool valve or a DA cyl valve.

http://www.baileynet.com/product/9375

 

[ron65]

After rethinking about this, I think the spool out with detent is the retract mode, and the detent release is adjustable, so what you are reading maybe detent relief, and is mis-adjusted.

The detent should be set about 500 to 600 psi below the main relief.

Swap your hoses so that the cyl will retract and kick back to neutral using the detent .

The main relief setting is from 1500 to 3000 psi

The valve comes from the factory set to 2000 psi at 10 GPM's.

This is the same valve. They are calling this valve a motor spool valve or a DA cyl valve.

http://www.baileynet.com/product/9375

J_J

Bare with me as I try to follow your directions in the order they should be done.
1- Swap hoses so cyl will retract and kick back to neutral using the detent.
2- Extend piston all the way out and continue to hold handle in out position to create and read what the main relief setting is at. Set at say, 1200 psi.
3- Then retract piston and hold handle past detent in retracted position, to create and read detent psi setting. Set at say, 600 psi. Or do I just watch the gauge when detent takes place and what the gauge momentarily reads just before it kicks to neutral, that is the reading to set by?

Will try this tomorrow if I can work it in. We had 2 below zero this morning and my fingers just cannot take the cold like years back. I think to myself that I must be getting old, but then have to correct myself and admit, no, I am old already! 70

Thanks again.

 

[J_J]

Swap the hose as necessary so you have to hold the lever to split, and when you retract, the lever goes into detent and the cyl will retract when detent pressure is achieved. The lever then goes into neutral.

Set your log splitter relief to tractor pressure relief psi.

Then set the detent relief psi. About 500 psi below the main relief pressure.

.

 

[ron65]

Swap the hose as necessary so you have to hold the lever to split, and when you retract, the lever goes into detent and the cyl will retract when detent pressure is achieved. The lever then goes into neutral.

Set your log splitter relief to tractor pressure relief psi.

Then set the detent relief psi. About 500 psi below the main relief pressure.

.

OK J_J here is the latest. Can't believe a simple log splitter can cause such a problem.

1 - I started following your latest instructions by swapping the necessary hoses to operate splitter as you mentioned.

2 - But when it came to setting the log spitters main relief psi, I encountered the same thing I mentioned in my original post: "Put hoses back so detent worked when retracting piston. Decided to play with the main relief valve setting when piston was fully extended under pressure and showing only 600 psi. Nothing changed. I could screw the adjustment screw all the way in until it bottomed out or unscrew it all the way and still no change from the 600 psi."

I believe I am adjusting the right adjustment which I mentioned in my original post: "Prince log splitter/lifter valve (RD522CCEA54B1) I presume the main relief valve setting is closest to the valve handle and the detent setting is toward the back".

So anyway J_J, I am guessing there is no sense to set the detent relief psi if I cannot adjust the main relief pressure. Any other ideas of what I could try?

Thanks again.

 

[J_J]

You are using a two stage pump , is that correct.

The pump has a shift point of 600 to about 900 psi from high flow/low pressure to low flow/high pressure.

Are you saying that when the cyl is fully extended, and you continue to hold the lever, you can not get high pressure, and the valve will not go into relief?

 

[Leejohn]

Check the engine to pump coupler and the keyways for it.

 

[ron65]

You are using a two stage pump , is that correct.

The pump has a shift point of 600 to about 900 psi from high flow/low pressure to low flow/high pressure.

Are you saying that when the cyl is fully extended, and you continue to hold the lever, you can not get high pressure, and the valve will not go into relief?

J_J

Yes I do have a two stage pump and yes when the cyl (piston) is fully extended, and I continue to hold the lever toward fully extending the piston, I can only get around 500 psi. Then when I put the lever in detent to return the piston it does so and the lever will spring to neutral when fully retracted. Now if I were to continue to hold the lever toward fully retracting the piston the pressure gauge shows pressure up to 2000 psi almost right away.

Just a note from my original message: - The pump is a 2 stage 11 gpm (The custom shop at first thought it might be the pump and sent another new one, but nothing changed from installing it)

Hope you can understand my reply.

Thanks

 

[ron65]

Check the engine to pump coupler and the keyways for it.

Leejohn

I have done that three times and believe everything is in order. But before you think I am really smart, the second time I checked I found the keyway under the pump on the ground. So that was not a bad idea that you had

Thanks

 

[Leejohn]

Well what I would do next is to put the gauge in the extend port on the valve and check dead head psi. If you get full psi there then it's the cyl and if not it's the valve or pump. Don't let it go over 2000psi just in case you have relief screwed in to far. Where the gauge is now you are checking the overall system

P.S. While you got the gauge there and if you have PSI then it would be a good time to set the relief valve.

 

[ron65]

Well what I would do next is to put the gauge in the extend port on the valve and check dead head psi. If you get full psi there then it's the cyl and if not it's the valve or pump. Don't let it go over 2000psi just in case you have relief screwed in to far. Where the gauge is now you are checking the overall system

P.S. While you got the gauge there and if you have PSI then it would be a good time to set the relief valve.

Leejohn

Just so I understand what your describing, you suggest removing hydraulic line from valve port that would normally extend piston and dead head my gauge in its place. Slowly move valve handle checking for pressure but not to exceed 2000 psi. This seems to be a test to check the cylinder. But would not the cylinder be fine based on what I did to it by a different test, which I described at the end of my first message? I reversed the hoses so when piston was fully extending with handle in the detent mode, it would kick out when piston was fully extended. Then if I over road the detent to try to extend piston further so I could get a pressure reading, the pressure shot up to 2,000 psi. Which seemed to show the cylinder was holding pressure. At one point I even placed a 4-5" piece of Tamarack cross wise the wedge and the piston sheared it about 3/4 of the way through before I could stop it. Would that tell you that the cylinder is likely o.k. before I start changing fittings for the test you mention above? Just trying to get out of any extra work since were having below 0 temps and these old bare fingers let me know quit quickly those temps.

And keep in mind I was sent a new pump which did not change anything, so I put the original pump back on. (Ever heard of two new bad pumps? That is the kind of luck I am noted for you know

Thanks for your time.

 

[Leejohn]

You would not be checking the cyl.. You are getting psi in detent and the gauge would be in the other port.

 

[ron65]

You would not be checking the cyl.. You are getting psi in detent and the gauge would be in the other port.

Leejohn

Thank you for that information. I will try and get at that today or tomorrow.

 

[J_J]

Just put the gage in the IN port in a tee and you will see any pressure that is developed.

The factory relief setting is about 2000 psi. It can be set up to 3000 psi, but you should limit it to the pump pressure.

If you can not get max pressure at the end of the extend stroke, then you have a problem.

However, if you do get high pressure pressure, then reset your main relief to your pumps max pressure minus 50 psi.

Pull the lever back to retract detent and watch the gage for current detent pressure. Then set detent kick off pressure to about 1200 psi.

 

[445A]

Looks like you have some very knowledgeable people helping you here. I'll be following your progress as I know very little about hydraulics. Can't wait to find out what you all come up with! Thanks to everyone participating. 445A

 

[ron65]

You would not be checking the cyl.. You are getting psi in detent and the gauge would be in the other port.

Well, finally made it back. Had to put in a stair way to the second floor before Thanksgiving. Something about priorities. I was sure my log splitter would have been somewhere in that category, but others in the house didn't agree But everyone's happy right now so I am happy except for my splitter.

Had some time yesterday to run a few more tests.

Leejohn - I did what you suggested with dead heading the extend port on the valve with a gauge and still can only get about 5-600 psi. And still unable to adjust main pressure on valve. Can screw it in all the way and there is no change in pressure. So put everything back the way I had it (Tee with pressure gauge at main input on main valve body) and as before, can get 1500-2000 psi when piston is retracted all the way in and I hold lever from springing to neutral, and can also get the same pressure after fully extending or retracting log lift cylinder in either direction.

Not sure if this makes any difference, but with this valve having two spools in the same body, I noticed the handle which extends the main ram does not go in as far as the log lift handle. But maybe that is because the log lift does not have a detent?

Since the main adj screw does not make any difference just how hard is it to take that apart to see if something has plugged it? Would there be pieces flying all over. Never had one of these apart before.

Thanks again

 

[ron65]

Just put the gage in the IN port in a tee and you will see any pressure that is developed.

The factory relief setting is about 2000 psi. It can be set up to 3000 psi, but you should limit it to the pump pressure.

If you can not get max pressure at the end of the extend stroke, then you have a problem.

However, if you do get high pressure pressure, then reset your main relief to your pumps max pressure minus 50 psi.

Pull the lever back to retract detent and watch the gage for current detent pressure. Then set detent kick off pressure to about 1200 psi.

J-J

Have put the gauge with a tee in the main IN port and still cannot get max pressure at the end of the extend stroke. When retracted and I hold lever from kicking out to neutral, the gauge can read 1500 - 2000 psi.

Cannot get the main relief setting to do anything even when screwed all the way in.

Thanks

 

[J_J]

Your relief valve should be set to about 2950 psi.

Your two stage pump is capable of 3000 psi.

What pressure do you get at the end of the extended stroke?

Did you remove any of the relief valves to inspect them. If so, did you put all the parts back together correctly?