wood oil based stain/preservatives?

[FROGSTEPHEN]

TWP STAIN / Also full line of cleaners etc & bug juice to add to stain to repel ants etc..

 

[bvanek]

several points;

preparation; the hard part (as always) is pre-stain preparation. Bare new wood vs old and weathered? vertical or decking? also type of wood (much of your deck wood supply chain is hemlock or other white, loose grain soft wood and treated on the surface only(generally not good stuff) warps and cracks from rain and sun but the sun does the most damage as it opens up surface cracks that in turn let in more moisture and then more cracking. Warping or cupping comes with low quality loose grain green lumber. Also when laying out you deck make sure you have reasonable gaps between each plank to keep debris from building up and not allowing air flow and subsequent water build up. Cedar has some natural oils in it that doesn't take water based stains too well.......

So do you want to cover or penetrate?.....at any rate if you go with a water based be prepared to resurface down to bare wood if you have bought treated decking....and if green and bare then there is a wait period of at least a year. Latex based peals but acrylic does much better. (Although i never have put it on horizontal decking it has worked well on bare wood siding.) Oil is more forgiving and can penetrate the wood more deeply.

Some have said that water based has come a long way? ..... but that depends on so many factors that this broad assessment has limited merit. Not arguing the point but I see it as an option depending on use. I will note this; Many of your oil based products have been compromised by environmental regulations. Some of the ingredients that have made it more viable have been removed.

 

[bvanek]

TWP STAIN / Also full line of cleaners etc & bug juice to add to stain to repel ants etc..

I use TWP on decking and wood fencing. I switched back to 100 as I found it lasted longer than the environmental (more expensive 200) Some States still allow 100, but I'm not sure about Canada .....I have used Cabot acrylic on my barn siding and it has held up well also.

 

[oldpilot]

Our house is forty years old. Cedar roof shingles were replaced after about 25 years. Cedar clapboards fastened with quality galvanized nails (maybe impossible to obtain now that everything is from China) still going strong. We're about 75 feet from salt water and used stainless staples on the replacement roof shingles. The ramp and decking of the pier is one-inch rough-sawn oak that I cut to make the driveway and sent to a sawmill. One of those oak planks rotted and had to be replaced a few years ago (miserable job because trying to match the thickness of the old planks).

None of this wood was ever insulted with stain or preservative, oil or water!

Just saying....

 

[joea99]

I've not read through, but since I just got in and cleaned up from sanding down a "failed in a year" outdoor patio door (and ain't done yet) urethane job, here's my nickle.

STAY AWAY from Minwax "Pro Series Spar Urethane Indoor/Outdoor". I used it on my deck hand rails and wood framed patio door that are in direct sunlight most of the day. Failed totally in a single season.

It seems fine for indoor use, even in sun, but outdoors, disaster. It is a PITA to redo properly, requiring complete removal down to at least bare wood as any trace of it will show though any "clear" coating you put on. Well, maybe not "any", but I used the "oil based" version from Minwax, thinking it should be more "compatible", but any trace of the water based coating showed through unpleasantly.

The "Helmsman" oil based product seems to last, but does darken the wood a lot more.

 

[FERLING]

I'm looking for a quality wood stain/preservative thas is oil based with UV protection that will last. Seems most manufacturers are swticting to water based which I don't like. What are you using? Whats still out there that is oil based?

The best solution to your problem is use decking until you need replacing. Use Lowes or Home Depot "Trex style" flooring to replace. Material will cost you but it's something you can do yourself saving on labor. No staining, No splinters, and non-slippery when wet. It will be there will no maintenance until floor joist rot out.
Upkeep needed only when you spill anything that will stain it. Light, very light pressure washing will take care of that.
Built a 12ft X 24 ft porch about 10 years ago. Needed one more board to complete steps. Found one buried, that had been used as a border for a flower bed about 6 years. Dug it up, power washed red mud off, sawed for finishing steps. Looked like new.
One of my best life decisions on any flooring that will be exposed to exterior enviroment.

 

[ArlyA]

The best solution to your problem is use decking until you need replacing. Use Lowes or Home Depot "Trex style" flooring to replace. Material will cost you but it's something you can do yourself saving on labor. No staining, No splinters, and non-slippery when wet. It will be there will no maintenance until floor joist rot out.
Upkeep needed only when you spill anything that will stain it. Light, very light pressure washing will take care of that.
Built a 12ft X 24 ft porch about 10 years ago. Needed one more board to complete steps. Found one buried, that had been used as a border for a flower bed about 6 years. Dug it up, power washed red mud off, sawed for finishing steps. Looked like new.
One of my best life decisions on any flooring that will be exposed to exterior enviroment.

I never said it was decking.

 

[ArlyA]

I've not read through, but since I just got in and cleaned up from sanding down a "failed in a year" outdoor patio door (and ain't done yet) urethane job, here's my nickle.

STAY AWAY from Minwax "Pro Series Spar Urethane Indoor/Outdoor". I used it on my deck hand rails and wood framed patio door that are in direct sunlight most of the day. Failed totally in a single season.

It seems fine for indoor use, even in sun, but outdoors, disaster. It is a PITA to redo properly, requiring complete removal down to at least bare wood as any trace of it will show though any "clear" coating you put on. Well, maybe not "any", but I used the "oil based" version from Minwax, thinking it should be more "compatible", but any trace of the water based coating showed through unpleasantly.

The "Helmsman" oil based product seems to last, but does darken the wood a lot more.

I used the spar varnish from Helmsman which was oil based and it lasted a few years outdoors but wasn't has long as I hoped. Not sure I'll use that prodecut again.

 

[ArlyA]

I'd like to thank everyone who answered the original qestion, what is a wood oil based stain/preservatives that works well?

 

[kevtjam]

I'm looking for a quality wood stain/preservative thas is oil based with UV protection that will last. Seems most manufacturers are swticting to water based which I don't like. What are you using? Whats still out there that is oil based?

We have had great luck with Sikkens Cetol. Use it on a couple of Amish style sheds made from rough sawed pine. Keeps it from turning black. Not cheap but it works well for us.

The stuff is now rebranded as PPG Proluxe or Sikkens Proluxe. The link below has links that talk about the rebranding.

Sikkens Proluxe Cetol SRD Transparent Stain

Sikkens Proluxe Cetol SRD is a one coat, oil-based, transparent exterior wood finish. Sikkens Proluxe Cetol SRD was created for use on a variety of wood surfaces including siding, rails, decks, and logs. Available in a curated palette of eight wood tones. PPG Mail-In Rebate - Save Up to $100 on...

www.twincreeksloghomes.com