Wood lathes, who knows what?

[hunt4570]

I have a jet full size lathe. You’ll definitely want a continuous variable speed not just a stepped pulley variable speed with whatever model you get. Be warned accessories will quickly exceed the cost of the lathe.

Which one do you have!
Are you talking about a digital/electronic variable speed? They seem to get pricy. Or just the variable belt style where the pullies adjust in and out like a go cart clutch as opposed to moving the belt by hand from/to different sized pullies?
And I've heard that about accessories, which are needed most at the beginning?

 

[bunyip]

Good quality gouge, about 1" as a starting point, an aluminium oxide wheel on your bench grinder to keep it sharp, they do blunt quickly, a parting tool and just a few other blades as a starting point, I also have a 4 jaw chuck with T handle for tightening, a couple of rear points for the other end, a face plate if you want to turn bowls.
#2 morse taper on the lathe as it is the most common, other sizes are expensive, after this you can expand but HSS tools are best IMO for a nice edge and ease of sharpening.
I use Record and Vicmark lathes, plenty on the market but avoid the cheap Chinese pressed steel units as they flex and throw the work at you, watch sharpening videos too, I touch up the gouge in a few seconds, doesn't need much and makes working easier and cleaner.

 

[5030]

I have a jet full size lathe. You’ll definitely want a continuous variable speed not just a stepped pulley variable speed with whatever model you get. Be warned accessories will quickly exceed the cost of the lathe.

Just like a metal lathe, the cost of tooling always exceeds the cost of the machine.

One thing about even the least expensive (and limited capacity metal lathe) is, the metal lathe will exceed the cost of a substantial wood lathe by far.

Local high school sold off their wood shop stuff and had a couple very heavy duty Delta wood lathes for sale / auction. Should have grabbed one, sadly I did not.

I did buy a nice lightly used LeBlond Servo shift engine lathe, completely tooled however. Ways were pristine and some of the tooling (taper attachment and the 6 jaw chuck were still in preservative). No one bid on it so I bid $1000.00 and got it. They loaded it on my Goose Neck trailer and I unloaded it with a farm tractor with a FEL. That sucker was heavy, had a helluva time getting it in the shop and getting it levelled but it's a beautiful machine. I think the only reason no one bid on it was it's 220 /3 phase and most individuals around here don't have 3 phase 220 power. Even came with al Aloris tool post and all attachments. The Aloris alone was worth a thousand bucks.

A bare LeBlond if you can find one used in good shape is worth at leas 5-7 grand. Least the students didn't beat it. I think it was the class instructors machine.

 

[4570Man]

Which one do you have!
Are you talking about a digital/electronic variable speed? They seem to get pricy. Or just the variable belt style where the pullies adjust in and out like a go cart clutch as opposed to moving the belt by hand from/to different sized pullies?
And I've heard that about accessories, which are needed most at the beginning?

I have a jet 1642. Yes I’d highly recommend getting something with electric variable speed. A reeves drive system wouldn’t be too bad. But a step belt system would suck.

 

[bigtiller]

If you can find an old Delta Rockwell 1460, buy it. I had one and they are heavy and smooth running. It is a 4 speed type with the motor hanging below the head on a hinge and v-belt powered. All that I have seen had a very substantial bench it sat on. I used to kid around saying the bench is worth as much as the lathe.

I paid a fair price of $400 for a moderately used one with tooling in 1988. I think they would be in the $800 ball park today??

They started making them in the early 40's but I don't know when they stopped production.

 

[3Ts]

If you're after spindles, you'll need something long but not very large in diameter. Bowls are the other way around. I have a Jet 1642 which is actually on the large size but can do both spindles and bowls, including outboard turning so the size (diameter) is almost unlimited. I highly recommend a variable speed drive (twist a dial to change speed - no pulleys) Watch out for the spindle size!!! The 1642 is a 1-1/4" spindle, smaller machines will have either a 1" or a 3/4" spindle which means all new tooling for each size or adapters.

 

[4570Man]

If you're after spindles, you'll need something long but not very large in diameter. Bowls are the other way around. I have a Jet 1642 which is actually on the large size but can do both spindles and bowls, including outboard turning so the size (diameter) is almost unlimited. I highly recommend a variable speed drive (twist a dial to change speed - no pulleys) Watch out for the spindle size!!! The 1642 is a 1-1/4" spindle, smaller machines will have either a 1" or a 3/4" spindle which means all new tooling for each size or adapters.

It’s nice to be able to slide the tailstock out of your way without removing it from the bed. Also you need all the weight you can get for turning bowls. I have a 5 gallon bucket of lead on my 1642.

 

[CADplans]

No ironwood?

Just kidding.

Our locust trees get pretty close to iron,, after the wood sets for a year or two,,
I know it is sand that blew, and gets trapped in the bark, but,, cut that locust with a chainsaw at night,, and watch the sparks fly,,

Yea, a metal lathe is usually speed limited compared to a wood lathe,,
but, I have seen WAY too many articles about guys trying to add a 3 or 4 jaw chuck to a wood lathe,
so they can TRY to turn some metal. THAT is where a lathe is really being used WRONG!!

 

[Doughknob]

I have been using a lathe for decades. Had an old (60s) Delta with stepped pulley. It worked fine. For a starter, it would be fine.

Now have a Smithy Ironwood (no longer made). It has the DC motor controller for variable speed. It is indeed more functional, but by no means necessary.

Essential accessories for starters: good chisel set (long handles, good steel), sharpening stone for the chisels, small and large tool rest, sharp head and tailstock spurs, wood mallet(tap spurs in).

 

[4570Man]

Just like a metal lathe, the cost of tooling always exceeds the cost of the machine.

One thing about even the least expensive (and limited capacity metal lathe) is, the metal lathe will exceed the cost of a substantial wood lathe by far.

Local high school sold off their wood shop stuff and had a couple very heavy duty Delta wood lathes for sale / auction. Should have grabbed one, sadly I did not.

I did buy a nice lightly used LeBlond Servo shift engine lathe, completely tooled however. Ways were pristine and some of the tooling (taper attachment and the 6 jaw chuck were still in preservative). No one bid on it so I bid $1000.00 and got it. They loaded it on my Goose Neck trailer and I unloaded it with a farm tractor with a FEL. That sucker was heavy, had a helluva time getting it in the shop and getting it levelled but it's a beautiful machine. I think the only reason no one bid on it was it's 220 /3 phase and most individuals around here don't have 3 phase 220 power. Even came with al Aloris tool post and all attachments. The Aloris alone was worth a thousand bucks.

A bare LeBlond if you can find one used in good shape is worth at leas 5-7 grand. Least the students didn't beat it. I think it was the class instructors machine.

You can buy old metal lathes from auctions and such pretty affordably. Buying new even a smaller one will quickly get over 5 figures. I used to buy used equipment all the time. It seems to be getting harder to come by. Even pre Covid I wasn’t seeing as much stuff as there was 10 years ago.