Wiring up lights on Ford 2000

[Bobby R]

First of all, my tractor is only 40 years old. 2011 minus 1971 equals 40. Secondly, I'm beginning to choke on my cold lemonade......Thirdly, I'd like to withdraw my original question.

 

[twoone]

Are you implying that I did not also graduate with my engineering degree? I hope not? because you would be wrong.

Lets look at this practically, since that seems to be the chaper you liked the most.

1, his tractor's charge system is extremely anemic. There's no point in running more load than the tractor can handle on a steady basis. Given that. lamp switches currently in production, and, well.. installed at the fatory are fine for his application.

Relays are for running less copper, and running laods impractical on switches.. IE.. you don't want a battery disconnect sized switch in the dash for lamps.

however.. dealing with the small load he has.. a regular off the shelf lamp switch will be fine.

ford engineers though so as well.

based on his application, intended load and statements.. adding a relay would just serve to spend money, and complicate the electrical system for the next time someone tries to troubleshoot it.

IMHO.. if he had a meltdown earlier.. it was misswireing, vs improper ratings. even an overloaded switch won't let the magic smoke out imediatly.. based upon the description of the failure.. I'd say it was not fused to protect the wireing either, of which, the switch rating would be a part of too.

now that's practical application... not.. how much technology can we cram into a 48 year old tractor..


soundguy

Agreed some how you have some information that I did get nor receive such as to the load and out put, I used the assumption that was in his original post that he had crashed and burned and had no idea as to why or what his load was and that he was going to replace it possibly with a after-mart assy. And at that time of a unknown type and size and was very undecided and confused I was only trying to put him on a straight road that why I kept asking him what his load factor was going to be before I could help him and I never got that answer for with out knowing it I could not prescribe anything. In my mind using the info. that he sent he implied that they maybe lights that would have a draw exceeding a 55watt load. Paul

 

[Bobby R]

For the record I had planned to use (2) 55 watt headlights = 110 watts, plus a 55 watt light on the rear, = 165 watts total. Now, for that application, what size wire do I need, what size fuse do I need, and what size switch do I need, if I do not install a relay, and the same questions if I DO install a relay?

 

[Soundguy]

Ok.. probably mentioned this 3 times now.. lets do the math.

165w

we will, for the sake of argument assume 12v as supply voltage.

165/12 = 13.75a

A STANDARD 20a rated push/pull 2 position headlamp switch is MORE than sufficient for this.

I would fuse using a 15a SB fuse. though a 20a FA would not be out of the question.

your front headlamp run will be 110w or 9.16a 14awg stranded wire will be sufficient for that.

you can string a line from the switch to the first lamp power lead, then to the snd lmap power lead, or you can run a seperate wire from the lamp switch terminals to each lamp power lead in front, and you will be running a seperate wire to the rear lamp.

the relay issue? a relay and a small switch will cost MORE than a simply headlamp switch.. and wire size won't change, nor will fuse size. in addition.. your simple switch may not have a built in fuse holder as the proper headlamp switch will, PLUS you would have to fuse the relay.. thus.. you would need to buy a relay, an switch and 2 fuse holders to replace the proper headlamp switch with integral fuse holder.

Ford ran the lamps just like that.. switch, and 3 lamps.... no relay, and no thumb sized copper wire.

PS, if this is a gasser 2000, figuring in ignition current and a quoiescent current to top the battery off after running for a while, and you are at the limit if the steady state of your charge syste,. right after startup there will be a larger draw to re-charge the depleted battery.. this is fine as it would not exceede the max charge output. if a diesel, then you actually have about 4more amps of load to play with, if needed, IE.. marker or flashers.. etc.

when I said 48ys old, for some reason i was thinking of my own prior model 2000 I just finished refurbishing last weekend.

recap

15a fa or 20a sb fuse

20a rated push / pull headlamp switch with integral fuse holder, and at most, a 25' spool of 14awg wire, if you intend to run seperate grounds to the lamps vs using the sheet metal, and if you run individual strands with no chaining...

soundguy

 

[Bobby R]

Okay Soundguy, that sounds like the plan I'll go with. If Ford didn't use a relay originally, then I don't see where I need to either. I apologize for getting you and Twoone into an argument. I never meant for that to happen. Twoone, if you're reading this, I apologize to you as well. I appreciate all your input, but in this case, I think the "no relay" is more practical for me since it originally didn't have one anyway. Thanks to all of you for your help.

 

[Soundguy]

ps.. im not sure which types of lamps you are getting.. many will only have 1 wire, and the mounting stud is ground, SOME have 2 wires. on the 2 wire incandescent jobs, designate one as ground and the other power.. power to the switch.. and ground? can either go to the sheet metal ( not what I call a good ground unless it's all shiney new like it left the factory ).. or run a wire from a good ground to the bas of the lamp, or to it's ground wire if available.

a good ground can be the bat ground clamp, the bat ground strap location, or a bolt into the chassie that has a good path thru non painted surfaces to the ground strap. plenty of locations.. be creative.

soundguy

 

[Bobby R]

Yeah, thanks for the information. That much I pretty well knew, just wasn't familiar with wire, switch, and fuse sizes, wattages, etc., but I appreciate it anyway.

 

[twoone]

Okay Soundguy, that sounds like the plan I'll go with. If Ford didn't use a relay originally, then I don't see where I need to either. I apologize for getting you and Twoone into an argument. I never meant for that to happen. Twoone, if you're reading this, I apologize to you as well. I appreciate all your input, but in this case, I think the "no relay" is more practical for me since it originally didn't have one anyway. Thanks to all of you for your help.

Bobby R: No apology needed I think sound guy is ok" and I would be glad to work with him any time he's on track and knows your system . I was just assuming that you were going to a larger system (you know what assuming means) I now its only a 55 watt. Only thing I could add is you can use any simple 20 amp 0n and off switch with placing the fuse in line if you can't replace the factory sw for the front lights there quite common and easy to find. best of luck. Paul

 

[Bobby R]

Thanks Paul. I'm sorry I didn't make myself clear about what I intended to use, and I too guess I might have just "assumed" everyone would know that I would use 55 watt lights on my application. Anyway, sorry again for any misunderstandings I may have caused. For the record, I think both you and Soundguy are incredibly knowledgable, about such things!

 

[Omar08]

I certainly agree on your answer mate!

 

[Soundguy]

Only reason i mention using a real headlamp switch is 1, most have an integral fuse holder, thus saving you a couple bucks, 2, most headlamp switches are 3 position.. off, on and on+aux

IE.. you can do first click as headlamps only, and all the way out as headlamps plus work lamp.. that way you don't have to burn that work lamp full time.

if you put a red marker lamp back there for driving on the road, wire the red lamp with the head lamps.. thus 1 click and headlamps and red lamp are on, and if you have a SMV plaque, you are road legal. don't want a rear facing 'white' lamp when driving on the road.

that 3 position headlamp switch lets you buy just 1 switch instead of 2 switches.. IE.. one for headlamps and one for tail lamp, and again.. saves you that extra fuse holder.. or really, a fuse holder for each lamp switch/ckt.

just more tidy, and cheaper to use the correct parts. Doesn't have to be a ford OEM switch.. most auto places and farm stores sell a generic 20a push / pull headlamp switch made for a main ckt and a running lamp ckt, and have integral fuse holder.. usually a 5$ item... comes with a fuse even...

soundguy

 

[mwb]

If you are looking to reduce your power requirements you can also get lower power lamps. Grote Industries: Product #64101 - 12-Volt, Sealed Beam is a 35w - probably closer to the power of the original.

If you are running 55w lamps one would be plenty bright but would look odd with only one on. My tractor headlamps are useless (they light up the back of the bucket real well) but I have lots of light with one 55W flood overhead (one towards front, one facing rear). Maybe you should leave the sheetmetal alone and build your self a ROPS with canopy and install overhead?:thumbsup:

Also, while not a huge consumption, you can replace a flasher (rear red) with an LED bulb, 1156 LED is commonly used and relatively cheap.

P.S. I sold my '74 Ford 2000 diesel when I bought my new tractor

 

[twoone]

Thanks Paul. I'm sorry I didn't make myself clear about what I intended to use, and I too guess I might have just "assumed" everyone would know that I would use 55 watt lights on my application. Anyway, sorry again for any misunderstandings I may have caused. For the record, I think both you and Soundguy are incredibly knowledgable, about such things!

Thank you, I was glad to be of any assistance and at least give you something to think about and sorry if I confused you I did not mean to; Sincerely, Paul

 

[Soundguy]

back on page 4, post # 36, it was mentioned about the 35w lamps..e tc.

if he gets a red led lamp for a flasher, he will also need a electronic flasher module, and not a regular heated bi-metalic strip flasher module.

soundguy

If you are looking to reduce your power requirements you can also get lower power lamps. Grote Industries: Product #64101 - 12-Volt, Sealed Beam is a 35w - probably closer to the power of the original.

If you are running 55w lamps one would be plenty bright but would look odd with only one on. My tractor headlamps are useless (they light up the back of the bucket real well) but I have lots of light with one 55W flood overhead (one towards front, one facing rear). Maybe you should leave the sheetmetal alone and build your self a ROPS with canopy and install overhead?:thumbsup:

Also, while not a huge consumption, you can replace a flasher (rear red) with an LED bulb, 1156 LED is commonly used and relatively cheap.

P.S. I sold my '74 Ford 2000 diesel when I bought my new tractor

 

[mwb]

back on page 4, post # 36, it was mentioned about the 35w lamps..e tc.

if he gets a red led lamp for a flasher, he will also need a electronic flasher module, and not a regular heated bi-metalic strip flasher module.

soundguy

:thumbsup: I skipped a bunch of posts that seemed to be going back and forth... and, yes he will need the correct (non-load dependent) flasher. Maybe Grote (or some other mfr) has a complete unit with the flasher built in?

 

[Soundguy]

even if not.. the correct one is available, at only about 2-3x the cost of a thermal unit.

soundguy