Wiring up a rear work light

[ironhayden86]

Just wondering if this is the correct spot to wire in a rear work light. It works but the light is on any time the tractor key is on. Is there any other wires that are set up for the rear work light besides the two bullet connectors by the right turn signal. I have a 2018 3510hst.

 

[s219]

Those work light circuits almost always assume a work light has its own switch. Most work light kits have the switch built into the light. If doing your own light, you'll need a switch inline with the wiring to the light.

 

[prof fate]

Someone suggested..and I did it - tap into the right rear tail light for the hot wire, use the bullet black for ground.

Now when you turn on your marker lights using the dash switch your work lights come on.

I have 2 36w LED's wired this way - 4 or 5 hours on them so far and no issues.

I was considering unplugging the head lights and running my lights off the now-unplugged wires. Headlights are useless with a loader anyway. Just longer run for wire, but you still use the stock switch..less wiring and cost!

 

[ritcheyvs]

Those work light circuits almost always assume a work light has its own switch. Most work light kits have the switch built into the light. If doing your own light, you'll need a switch inline with the wiring to the light.

That's how the rear work light on my DK45s is set up. There is a toggle switch (easy to reach from seat) on the light case. The switch has a rubber boot like this to keep water out.

 

[CMV]

Mine that way too - always hot with key on so needs separate switch. Also of note, mine on its own 5A fuse - which didn't support the 3 pod lights I tried to run from it. That or I have a short, but suspect am overloading the 5A.....

 

[Huffmeister]

Using the spare pigtail at the lower right of my seat, I installed a rear LED work light, along with a switch mounted nearby, so that it can be turned off rather than being constantly on with the ignition.

The light works, but the 20A headlight fuse blows when I operate the new switch.

For testing purposes, I just used wire nuts to twist up the 3 positive wires and the 3 negatives.

What did I do wrong ... maybe a grounding issue?

 

[Einthewoods]

This is how I did mine. I wanted a separate switch with relay and fuse. Turned out good and I don't worry about the load I have on it compared to the little pre-wired work light circuit.


https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...-leds-night-work-post4980281.html#post4980281

Wiring kit I used: Amazon.com: LAMPHUS 12V 4A Off Road ATV/Jeep LED Light Bar Relay Wiring Harness Kit - BLUE Mini ON/OFF Switch: Automotive

 

[Huffmeister]

Thanks ... seems like it shouldn't require running a loom all the way to the battery when there's pigtails already provided. That will be a last resort, I guess.

There's another unused plug that's taped to the loom under the right fender, has 3 wires going to it. Anyone else have this & know what it's for?

**EDIT** tested that other plug, it's hot with ignition on also. Sigh.

 

[ritcheyvs]

I would hook a voltmeter or test light to the pigtail, turn the key switch on to power it, and then pull fuses until you find the circuit that feeds the pigtail. From the fuse label you should know the intended purpose of the circuit. At least that's what I did when I added a diverter valve.

 

[Einthewoods]

Thanks ... seems like it shouldn't require running a loom all the way to the battery when there's pigtails already provided. That will be a last resort, I guess.

There's another unused plug that's taped to the loom under the right fender, has 3 wires going to it. Anyone else have this & know what it's for?

**EDIT** tested that other plug, it's hot with ignition on also. Sigh.

Require, no. I have run two lights so far and will likely run two more. Depending on what lights you're using, putting a relay for the switch to activate rather than the power going directly through the switch is just smart.

Get a good switch that can handle whatever load you're going to put on it now and possibly in the futire.