Window/door question

   / Window/door question #1  

Wayne County Hose

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Aug 24, 2007
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Wayne County Pa.
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Massey Ferguson model 85, Allis-Chalmers WD-45
Boy, I just wish I knew more about this stuff. Well, here is my situation. My builder has installed the Andersen windows and doors into the frame of my new house. I helped install some of the larger windows as he needed extra hands. One thing I noticed he didn't do, after I read the window literature, is caulk the opening before placing the windows. Now, after a heavy thunderstorm, I noticed rain running down the walls from the windows. Looks like it ran down the side of the house and in thru the top flange, if that's what it's called. Should I be worried? Will installing the siding stop this? I already sprayed low expanding foam around some of the first floor windows.
 
   / Window/door question #2  
Siding will stop it. However I generally caulk the back of nailing flange.

Brad
 
   / Window/door question #3  
I don't quite understand what you are describing, but windows need to be properly flashed. If they are, caulk doesn't matter, if they aren't, caulk won't help.

I'd ask him how he is planning on flashing the windows, its a reasonable question. Lack of a good answer would bother me a lot.

Siding is not flashing, but would generally be done at the same time. Though I'd grace or Vycor flash it first.
 
   / Window/door question #4  
It is always good to follow mfg. specs for warranty purposes. Diff. areas of the country treat window and door openings diff, If your house had house wrap put on before the windows were installed, IMO, you will be OK, if now a good window flashing (Bitathane) sp is applied in the proper manner before your siding is installed. Maybe someone from your area can give you better advice. Good Luck!!
 
   / Window/door question
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Charles, sorry for my ignorance. I know very little about this stuff. My builder just completed the framing of our new home. The windows just came in and he installed. Unfortunately, from what I have seen, I do not trust his work. Yes, I am ignorant to the building process, but, I am not stupid. I just think he wants to slam it together and be done. Basically, when the Tyvek and a couple other little things are done, so is he.
 
   / Window/door question #6  
I installed Andersen windows in the studio I built for my wife last year.

I used house wrap, then I put Protecto-Wrap flashing around the window opening, then I laid a bead of caulk around the opening and set the window then I added another layer of Protecto-Wrap flashing. Can't be too careful.

Here http://www.andersenwindows.com/servlet/Satellite?blobcol=urldata&blobheader=application%2Fpdf%0D%0AContent-Disposition%3A+inline%3B+filename%3D0005134.pdf%3B&blobkey=id&blobnocache=false&blobtable=MungoBlobs&blobwhere=1186928299650&ssbinary=true are Andersen's instructions.

If you're getting water inside the walls, I'd say your builder didn't install the windows properly. The siding will help but it's not there to make your windows leak-proof.

WVBill
 
   / Window/door question #7  
My 30 year old house has Anderson windows and sliding doors. They are, by far, the best sliding door I have ever owned or operated.
 
   / Window/door question #8  
WVBill said:
I installed Andersen windows in the studio I built for my wife last year.

I used house wrap, then I put Protecto-Wrap flashing around the window opening, then I laid a bead of caulk around the opening and set the window then I added another layer of Protecto-Wrap flashing. Can't be too careful.

If you're getting water inside the walls, I'd say your builder didn't install the windows properly. The siding will help but it's not there to make your windows leak-proof.

WVBill

I agree. For example, water can and does get behind vinyl siding. The windows need to be sealed independently of the siding. Not just for water leaks but also to stop air infiltration. When the Winter winds come a howling around here, they can rob your house of all its heat.

I use a butyl, (non drying), calk between the nail flange and the house wrap. And then the tape flashing over top. This seal will last forever. 99.9% of the builders won't use the butyl because its messy, and they are going to use the tape flashing, so they will tell you its unnecessary. The tape is not totally reliable, a small gap opening on the top down the road, will collect water, and drive you nuts trying to find the leak.
 
   / Window/door question #9  
1 - Install the windows per the instructions.

2 - Install the windows per the instructions.

3 - Install the windows per the instructions.

I read up on house wraps years ago but I don't think it has changed since that time. House wraps are vapor barriers not water barriers. They are designed to let the house breath not prevent water from getting into the wall structure.

Siding leaks. Vinyl siding leaks alot. Even brick veneer walls wicks water quickly to the interior side of the brick. Brick veneer walls have or should have weep holes to allow water to get out.

Those windows need to be installed correctly or you are likely going to have problems. Fix it now while its easy, fast and cheap. If there is a problem later on it will not be easy, fast or cheap to fix.

1 - Install the windows per the instructions.

2 - Install the windows per the instructions.

3 - Install the windows per the instructions.

Later,
Dan
 
   / Window/door question #10  
i thought house wrap was to stop air infiltration, but allow moisture to escape?
heehaw
 

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